NMBROOK

Ian,you can also increase the depth of colour produced by the poly by applying a few well thinned coats rather than using the varnish neat Only the last one needs to be straight out of the tin
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Finally, about a year after our move I managed to get the workshop back in place
 

 
one workbench for ships
 

 
and one, with buildin power outlets for working on parts
 

 
At the moment I'm working on the bow, the first few pieces:
 

 

 

 
Best,
Michiel

Good morning everyone
 
standing riggng continues, I put the Bumpkins in and secured them into place with a bracket, I have managed to get quite confused where some of the lines get secured, like the Jib out haulers, and the 4 main stays, so that is work in progress, 
now i am going to move aft and start the main mast upper shrouds

Standing Rigging continues (and might be for a while)
 

I see what you mean Mike,but it sounds like the wood is saturated,Too much oil has been applied without the necessary interval inbetween.It will dry,it is just a case of being very patient.Wiping any film off that may rise to the surface just prevent anything nasty being dried on the the top.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mike
I would leave it,just wipe over with a clean cloth daily until the excess oil has gone.Do not apply any poly until the oil has finished 'gassing out'.
Normally I leave tung oil 24hrs between coats.The only finish you can apply relatively quickly in successive coats is shellac.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mike
I would leave it,just wipe over with a clean cloth daily until the excess oil has gone.Do not apply any poly until the oil has finished 'gassing out'.
Normally I leave tung oil 24hrs between coats.The only finish you can apply relatively quickly in successive coats is shellac.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mike
I would leave it,just wipe over with a clean cloth daily until the excess oil has gone.Do not apply any poly until the oil has finished 'gassing out'.
Normally I leave tung oil 24hrs between coats.The only finish you can apply relatively quickly in successive coats is shellac.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ian,you can also increase the depth of colour produced by the poly by applying a few well thinned coats rather than using the varnish neat Only the last one needs to be straight out of the tin
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mike
I would leave it,just wipe over with a clean cloth daily until the excess oil has gone.Do not apply any poly until the oil has finished 'gassing out'.
Normally I leave tung oil 24hrs between coats.The only finish you can apply relatively quickly in successive coats is shellac.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ian,you can also increase the depth of colour produced by the poly by applying a few well thinned coats rather than using the varnish neat Only the last one needs to be straight out of the tin
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mike
I would leave it,just wipe over with a clean cloth daily until the excess oil has gone.Do not apply any poly until the oil has finished 'gassing out'.
Normally I leave tung oil 24hrs between coats.The only finish you can apply relatively quickly in successive coats is shellac.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel you are right, it looks like the poly will bring out the diferences just enough to contrast the planks - although I wish I had planned this a little better. I think that my tastes and appreciation for this kind of thing has matured since I started this hobby. Up until now I have treated this as just one more thing that my skill level needed to catch up to.
Best, Ian

Ian,edited my post after googling Yes it is what you call mineral spirits
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work on the wales Ian If you plan on using polyurethane for finishing them,I would say this will bring the differing shades of the timber out and make you planking pattern more visible.Give them a light wipe with white spirit,whilst still wet it gives a fair impression what they will look like when varnished
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Truly astonishing work Alejandro      
 
I am a fan of Spanish ships but have been disappointed by the lack of information on the net.I don't speak Spanish,but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

What many of the scratch builders do also is leave a gap in the external planking.  This gives a slot that the channel can fit right into to help support it.

Ian,edited my post after googling Yes it is what you call mineral spirits
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Nigel! Is white spirit the same as what we call mineral spirits?

Hi MarcM,
 
I recommend you to fit the channels to the hull by using thin dowel or brass wire,I have done this (using 1mm brass wire) and used 30 minute epoxy throughout instead of glue. They will then not easily come off with a knock. In reality,the channels (made from several planks fayed,bolted or dowelled together) were bolted from the outer edge right through the hull. I would recommend fitting the knees after the channels are on,this allows you to sand them to get a nice fit between the hull and channel.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Hello to everybody
My name is Alejandro Yañez, from Spain; I registered in your forum several years ago, into  “reading only category”, as I´m a frustrated modeler (when children came, wife decided there was no room at home for all, and so my unfinished Artesania Latina´s “San Juan Nepomuceno” lies stored in a closet waiting for a better time,...)
 
While making the model I decided to improve my model, and began to investigate Spanish XVIII century shipbuilding. As model building had to stop, I continued with my studies about the real “San Juan Nepomuceno” and Spanish shipbuilding of her age.
The result of all this is a “booklet” about 300 págs. I decided to share my investigations with modelers community in Spain (Foro de Modelismo Naval), and now with you, as I think Spanish shipbuilding is little known outside Spain. You can download it from this link:
 
 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47335803/Nepomuceno_foro.pdf
 
The work is divided in two parts, first one is “San Juan Nepomuceno” history, and the second covers the study of the ship. This one is supported with drawings and photos of models exposed in “Museo Naval de Madrid” (Spanish Navy Museum)  Most photos in my work are from an incredible detailed model there exposed, this is not the real “San Juan Nepomuceno”  but a contemporary model from the french shipbuilder François Gautier (designer and  builder of Nepomuceno), and  so, very useful to study Gautier building system in Spain (1765-1784), also known as “French fashion” in opposition to the previous one developed by Jorge Juan, known as “British fashion”.
 
There is one “big problem” ....is it´s written in Spanish!
 
Hope you like it
 
Alejandro,
 

Daniel,
Your Trinidad is looking great!. I have a few questions:
Are you going to copper plate her?
What software did you use to get the planking, AutoCad, Rhino5?
Are you using Mr. Crespo´s plans or the ones from Museo Naval Madrid?
On the link below you can check a Santisima Trinidad model. The modeler is using the same plan I´m working on. The stern is slightly diferent than yours,
as the plan is dated in 1796, and there is no lion but the archangel St Michel´s figurehead:
 
http://www.modelismonaval.com/foro/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=14073
 
If you need information regarding her artillery, masting, rigging ,etc. Let me know.

Hello all,

Santa Maria kit is in the sale now. You can buy it with 30% discount. The discount is valid until April 15-2016. Please visit our special offers webpage:

http://www.dusekship.../special-offers

best regards
Daniel Dusek

Hi Ed,
I glue all the resin or metal parts by cyano acrylate glue.
I everytimes try to paint simple parts before I complete the bigger group. Sometimes it may hapen that the painted part glued to the another painted part is not fasten enought so sometimes it is need to glue it one time more but for me it is better then painted it just after the glueing as I am not so skillful in painting
Best regards
Daniel

I have heard Amati rigging line is probably the best off the shelf non rope product
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel