NMBROOK

Thanks everyone for the kind posts, it seems its been forever since my last update!
 
Have been working on getting the second planking complete, which is now is below the wale.  Frankenstein's monster may be the best analogy right now.  Didn't really want to obsess over the area beneath the waterline, planked with walnut as this will be covered.  This is most definitely not exhibit A in a 'how to plank' lesson.  I found planking the round stern challenging, especially as I'm not going to use paint so wanted to get all the planks as tight as possible, and fit into the sternpost rabbet. 
 
I knew I still had work to do finalizing the hull shape to elimate some small 'waviness' and ensure smooth curvature.  In some cases I had already sanded the first planking almost to zero, so I had to get the second layer on to continue to refine.  In one spot I did actually make a very small hole....This of course suggest I needed to have done a better job shaping/tapering/shimming the bulkheads in the first place, but I really don't think I cut a corner there and certainly did my best to get it right.  Think this boils down to the challenges of a larger hull.
 
Honestly, I did not enjoy planking with the walnut.  Despite buying a replacement wood which was better than that provided in the kit, it was still of poor quality; splintery edges, inconsistent dimensions and colour.  Don't really care too much about the latter, but only because it will not be visible.  Thankfully, its done.
 
I've drawn level lines to help confirm symmetry and flow of lines compared to AOTS plans.  Pretty happy, but some final fettling needed in some places...pretty easy.

 
As mentioned before, the keel is nowhere near thick enough and needs to be built up.  This is especially true at the bow and I added yet more maple strip to build this up.  This will ultimastely also receive a false keel, hence the step.

 
And the overall shot in all its horror.  The patient's looks can only improve from here :-)

Thank you very much indeed aferox and Ferit  
 
I wish you all the best with Mordaunt aferox.You will have to start a build log,it will be nice not to be the only Mordaunt build on here  There is a good video slideshow build on youtube.I may be wrong,but this may be the build of Murpys77,a member on here.
 
Excellent to hear from you again Ferit my friend.I myself am now suffering post moving blues.I spent years getting everything how I wanted it and have to start over again However I have resumed work but it may be a little while before I post updates.
 
Biggest issue with moving is my carving has gone AWOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It was put in a safe place,that safe I can't find it              
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Ulises yes HUGE is the word that springs to mind         I may get around to posting pics at some stage
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking good Ulises
My 1/60 scratchbuild to Mamoli's plans going along in the background only highlights the problems you must have faced getting a fair hull.The bulkheads are miles away and unsymmetrical.Admittedly all errors on the plans are scaled up 1.5 times on my build,but the errors are as much as 3mm on my skeleton.Much packing sanding and checking will be required before I even think about planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello modellers, 
 
I finished the gunports on the backboard side. The hinges are slightly larger, than the original. But nevertheless I am very happy with the result.This also applies for the cords , which I have attached to a small ring at the bottom. The rings are made from an old anchor chain of another model. I painted them black. Unfortunately they are not clearly visible, because of the black background. 
 
With every step I take, I feel my model gets more alive. I don´t know how to explain. But I am sitting here at the table, my head on the tabletop, and staring on my model. I would not be surprised if the gunports would suddenly open :-)
 
Does anyone know this? Or am I going crazy?  
 
Greetings and the best wishes for the weekend
 
- Heinz -

I would not be surprised if the cannon gates would suddenly openable .'m sitting here at the table , my head on the tabletop√ I'm sitting here at the table , my head on the tabletop  I'm sitting here at the table , my head on the tabletop   

Thanks Nigel.  I pulled out the kit yesterday.  Going to be a lot of carving, but I'm looking forward to it.  Unfortunately I seem to have inherited my mom's inflammatory arthritis, and I'm anticipating only being able to do a few more builds.  So... got to get to it!  I'll move a camera to my workshop; might help with remembering to take pictures.  
 
Thankfully my youngest son is showing signs of catching the modeling bug.  I've collected a large number of kits over the years, including some very rare ones, and I'd hate to see them wasted.
 
Ah, the safe place!  Starting to replace it should work, rather like me getting a call from my wife as soon as I get into some... dang, there goes the phone.
 
Tim

After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
 
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Nigel
 
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
 
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
 
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
 
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
 
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
 
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
So after getting Fred Hocker’s confirmation regarding the Vasa having mast tackles with fiddle blocks I used some single blocks to “make” four blocks.
 
These four blocks will remain static attached to shrouds (without lines inserted) so wanted to add a bit of detail to the “pulleys” within. Will need four more for the main mast as well.
 
I used a drill bit and sort of honed within the blocks to make the pulleys appear more circular. The diff. is somewhat noticeable. Had lines been strung through these blocks I would not have done this extra bit of work.
 
Finished up the lower foremast cap and deadeyes. Added the shrouds as well as the middle foremast staff.
 
Now working on the four other needed platforms. Doing them all at once.
 
Thanks for dropping by as well as your advice.
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 

Hello all,
I made some progress on Staten Yacht prototype. All decorations are ready now. Some photos are below.
Best regards
Daniel

Nigel, there a is an easy and guaranteed solution to your problem.  Simply carve some replacement items and as soon as you're finished, your original carvings will miraculously be found.  Works every time!

Thank you very much indeed aferox and Ferit  
 
I wish you all the best with Mordaunt aferox.You will have to start a build log,it will be nice not to be the only Mordaunt build on here  There is a good video slideshow build on youtube.I may be wrong,but this may be the build of Murpys77,a member on here.
 
Excellent to hear from you again Ferit my friend.I myself am now suffering post moving blues.I spent years getting everything how I wanted it and have to start over again However I have resumed work but it may be a little while before I post updates.
 
Biggest issue with moving is my carving has gone AWOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It was put in a safe place,that safe I can't find it              
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Stunning work Marsalv!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I agree Druxey that would be a little challenging.I don't say you can eliminate spiling completely,just reduce the amount required.To date,i haven't had any spring back issues,however all my final planking is glued to a continuous substrate,be it solid wood infill or a first planking layer.I know Chuck single planks over bulkheads or frames albeit closer together than one would find in a standard kit.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The idea is to prebend the plank off the model Druxey,I totally agree that bending as you lay the planks is fraught with problems.Chuck uses a hair dryer,Dr Mike uses an iron or a toaster!Prebending the planks removes any inbuilt stresses and prevents problems later on.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Fish
 
I disagree with David,you can edge bend planking and many builders far more experienced than myself have shown techniques for doing this.I have even successfully edge bent Ebony.
 
The odd stealer was using in planking of many full size vessels,however,if you want to emulate the planking on contemporary models,then stealers are undesirable as they were very rarely used on these models.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel.

Thanks Ulises yes HUGE is the word that springs to mind         I may get around to posting pics at some stage
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking good Ulises
My 1/60 scratchbuild to Mamoli's plans going along in the background only highlights the problems you must have faced getting a fair hull.The bulkheads are miles away and unsymmetrical.Admittedly all errors on the plans are scaled up 1.5 times on my build,but the errors are as much as 3mm on my skeleton.Much packing sanding and checking will be required before I even think about planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Ulises yes HUGE is the word that springs to mind         I may get around to posting pics at some stage
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel