NMBROOK
-
Posts
2,305 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
OK,I have to admit everyone knows me better than I know myself,the carvings will be natural finish,just need to buy something to strip this one back to natural wood If I use the kit castings,the challenge will be on to find a paint colour that mimics this timber when the poly has been applied No pics for a while,I have now started the second carving,it may take some time to produce all four
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from tadheus in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Aussie048 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from captain_hook in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from captain_hook in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Nigel
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from captain_hook in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much Don and Jason
The reason I chose epoxy in this instance Jason is two fold.Firstly,I couldn't guarantee a perfect fit to the inside of the planking.The epoxy fills gaps whereas pva does not.Secondly,epoxy sticks to ebony better than pva and I needed this joint to be as strong as possible.
Ok,I have now started work on the decorative figures that run between the windows.These are to be carved out of boxwood(yes I know,I can see where this is heading )I could cast them,but they are all different due to the angles involved.I am trying to mirror what is illustrated on the kit castings.
This is the start of the first piece.It comprises of two figures on top of one another.I have started with the top one as I want the feet to fall on the rail below the windows.This is very much in the roughing stage.Weight loss,breast reduction,then detailing are on the menu
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have finally fitted the remaining glazing bars in the lower stern windows(yes another five to go above these and numerous ones on the deck bulkheads )
The three on the right are complete,the two on the left have had the bars sanded flat and awaiting another coat of matt poly.
I have now moved on to fitting the balcony floor.Three copper pins were bonded into the edge of the floor and correspond to holes drilled in the transom.The softwood former underneath is temporary,it is purely there to hold the correct camber as I had a small amount of springback when the floor was released from it's jig.The floor has been epoxied to the transom and lower edge of the planking.The protuding sides will be trimmed and sanded flush when the epoxy has cured.This will also release the softwood former which is held with blobs of epoxy at each end.
I am looking forward to the next stage,I had a lightbulb moment this week.I have worked out how to produce decorative paneling in boxwood with an ebony architrave detail.It is based on DrMike's technique for creating these panels,but with my own twist.All will be revealed in due course
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Chuck in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeronimo in THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
Hello friends.
The all remaining frames mounted, aligned and bonded.
Now handwork is called for sanding.
Help in this case, belt-sander, long-neck angle grinder
and various sanding blocks.
Karl
T e i l 3
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeronimo in THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
Hello friends,
new pictures of the construction 74 gun-ship.
A provisional aligment of the frames.
Every double frame consisting of 22 - 26 fragments.
Karl
T e i l 2
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeronimo in THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
Hello friends.
Against my original plan, I'm building the model in scale 1:36 instead of
building it in scale 1:48.
This means change of plans.
Regards Karl
-
NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Lawrence thanks for dropping by, as well as your always very nice comments.
Marc, thanks for your post as well
Buck, also thanks for dropping by, regarding those tiny holes, well they are just that - holes.
I was going to straighten out those very small RR spikes, but they were too big. Turns out that just drilling tiny holes gave the perfect “tromp l'oeil” illusion that you noticed. I also did the same for the weather deck gratings. Looking from a “normal distance” works for me. I also thought of inserting black fishing line, tried a couple and "saw" no difference, so holes it was. Same for the mast rope stays.
PS: The Proxxon Micromot Flexishaft is an awesome accessory. It will accept super small drill bits and keep true smooth rotation, a wonderfully useful tool.
Cheers,
MIchael
-
NMBROOK reacted to Salty Sea Dog in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Fantastic work as always Michael! I've been meaning to ask; What are you using for the tiny nails like in your crow's nest? I see a railroad spike on the bench, but it looks like it would be too big even with the head cut off. Are you painting them black before inserting them? Wonderful details!
-
NMBROOK reacted to cog in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Jason,
I think Nigel has said it all ... Now 'go for it'
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from gjdale in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
OK,I have to admit everyone knows me better than I know myself,the carvings will be natural finish,just need to buy something to strip this one back to natural wood If I use the kit castings,the challenge will be on to find a paint colour that mimics this timber when the poly has been applied No pics for a while,I have now started the second carving,it may take some time to produce all four
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Nigel,
Hmmmm your carving skills are so excellent.
Did you first start with turkeys at Thanksgiving? Yes I know that you folks ignore that one, but It just crossed my mind enough to make a joke, as we use that term here across the pond.
Cheers,
Michael
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from davec in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
OK,I have to admit everyone knows me better than I know myself,the carvings will be natural finish,just need to buy something to strip this one back to natural wood If I use the kit castings,the challenge will be on to find a paint colour that mimics this timber when the poly has been applied No pics for a while,I have now started the second carving,it may take some time to produce all four
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from coxswain in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Captain Poison in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Nigel
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Captain Poison in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much Don and Jason
The reason I chose epoxy in this instance Jason is two fold.Firstly,I couldn't guarantee a perfect fit to the inside of the planking.The epoxy fills gaps whereas pva does not.Secondly,epoxy sticks to ebony better than pva and I needed this joint to be as strong as possible.
Ok,I have now started work on the decorative figures that run between the windows.These are to be carved out of boxwood(yes I know,I can see where this is heading )I could cast them,but they are all different due to the angles involved.I am trying to mirror what is illustrated on the kit castings.
This is the start of the first piece.It comprises of two figures on top of one another.I have started with the top one as I want the feet to fall on the rail below the windows.This is very much in the roughing stage.Weight loss,breast reduction,then detailing are on the menu
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Sian in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Jason I do think this taper is frequently overlooked by Kit builders.Whilst I am not familiar with kits from American manufacturers,the only European kit maker that depicts this taper and indeed that of the prow is Euromodel.I feel that addressing this point Jason,will take you model away from one of the typical 'kit traits'.You only need to look in the scratch build section and see how many parallel stern posts you can find
I can only applaud your decision for going this route
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S.you probably know me better than I know myself My carvings will be returning to natural wood
Our Emblem ®
