NMBROOK

This has to be the finest model I have seen in my lifetime.The video is of a UK TV series extreme machines presented by Jeremy Clarkson.It shows a Ferrari 312pb featuring a WORKING exact scale replica of the engine and gearbox.The thing even sounds right!!!
 

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Dave
 
I think that it is necessary to clarify what appearance you are after.You can plank with kit supplied material with tapering and no clinkering HOWEVER the planking will look nothing like the planking on a real ship.You can compensate by edge bending the strip but that has its limitations and it''s effectiveness varies with wood species.This does vary a lot with hull shapes,I am a glutton for punishment and build 3 deckers mainly.These hull shapes are very unforgiving when trying to use parallel strip.
As the original would have the wales fitted prior to planking the planking must appear to run inbetween the wales to look authentic.This again compounds the problem that planks need to curve in two directions,quite a lot on some vessels due to the sheer compounded with the hull curving inward.
Regarding tapering,it really doesn't matter which side you taper and on the garboard,this piece invariably is anything but straight so there isn't really a tapered side.
On my build of Nuestra Senora (the pic Chris has used above)things get even more complex,the hull is divided into bands of planks on the lower hull,but these bands are tweaked to provide a pleasing visual run when viewed from all angles.This does not follow exact ship building practice,but reflects the style that contemporary models were planked,with no stealers or drop planks.
Regarding sheet stock,I would wait until your kit arrives to determine exactly what thickness you require.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Absolutely wonderful work Amalio    
 
May I ask how the lining planking is fastened to the mould to allow latter removal?
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Alexandru,wow,this has got to be the most spectacular models of Victory I have seen.I am not a big fan of too much paint on my own models,I would rather let the beauty of the timber shine through,so your build appeals to me greatly      .
Stunning work!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

One way to heat to avoid melting them would be to put in a domestic oven.The lowest melting point for this type of metal is around 230 deg c.If the oven is set below this,no matter how long the casting is in the there it will never exceed the ovens temperature.I agree with Andy though,resin copies could be the way to go.You can actually remove these from the mould when still 'green' ,they are hard enough to maintain their detail,but still soft enough to be shaped to a contour.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I have not tried with white metal,but annealing works with brass castings.If it is a big bend then I anneal and bend so far and then anneal again.This overcomes the work hardening caused by bending.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
 
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
 
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
 
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
 
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
 
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
 
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi all I have started this thread as other related threads seem to be going of on a tangent Not only that,for future reference to readers,I thought it may be better that any discussion regarding these fine kits is all in one place.Peter has devoted a lot of his free time to creating his interpretive files which can be downloaded on Euromodels website.This charts the construction of the individual models.If you have a question or would like to add anything about this,please go to Pete's thread 
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5541-euromodel-interpretive-files/
 
If you would like to discuss anything other than this related to Euromodels kits please feel free to post it here.
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
 

Dunno Mark,I tried it yesterday,but it kept including an image from my first post.Need to read up on it as I think it has changed with the new forum platform.
Kind Regards
Nigel

Looking forward to following on Mark
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Your planking is coming on great Ulises I have recently bought Mamoli's plans for this vessel and do propose to build her in 1/60.Other than cutting and assembling the skeleton,this build is a little in the future for me.
The mention of coppering is something I have been thinking of.Mamoli's model clearly represents the vessel of 1759 and is almost an exact replica of the model in the Paris museum.This vessel was wrecked whilst in drydock in 1772 after seeing active service in the seven years war.I am debating whether she would have actually ever been coppered as this was a little early for the French Navy.She certainly wouldn't have been when built.
I concur that this model in 1/90 is rather large particularly in breadth and having cut out half the bulkheads,in 1/60 it is huge!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Michael there is a useful guide to Leds on this website,this is where I get my LEDS and various other items for my RC builds.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. make sure you follow the guide to voltage,required voltage varies with the colour of the LED,too low it won't work,too high it will blow.This is why you quite often have to incorporate resistors in the circuit.

As you may know Danny,I broke up a model of this vessel and salvaged most of the fittings.I intended to finish her,but found her hull to be 50% plaster.If you let me know what you need,I will put them in the post for you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just some pics of the plans and instructions included with the model.Note date on drawing,not quite as old as me,but older than my wife   .The instructions actually include more information than some of the current ones from Billings!I will take pics of the model at the weekend as I have several bags of loose items to wade through.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just had a very pleasurable read through your log Bob,great work!
Kind Regards
Nigel

All Righty Then .. Photo Time ...
 
This is Ballahoo as she currently stands...  Everything in the photo is secured in its final position,  masts are removed as they were only dry fitted .
 
Thanks For Stopping By Folks .. All The Very Best from 'The Speedy Boatyard' formally known as 'Snails Pace Yard' 
 
Eamonn

Just had a very pleasurable read through your log Bob,great work!
Kind Regards
Nigel

Just had a very pleasurable read through your log Bob,great work!
Kind Regards
Nigel

I've now gotten to work on various deck items. The first were the gratings and coamings for the hatches and the galley stack The gratings were done with boxwood grating kits from Syren. The coamings are boxwood strip. The galley stack was done with styrene tube. I also made the forward companionway from boxwood strip.
 
The next order of business was to begin work on the guns and carriages. For the two long guns, I used the kit brass barrels and some left over carriages from the Lumberyard. I chose to mount the carronades on sleds, rather than the kit carriages, and made these up from boxwood strip.The carronade barrels are 3D printed pieces from Shapeways, and  I am very pleased with them.The long guns and the first two carronades have now been mounted and rigged. I will be assembling the remaining guns and working aft from here.
 
Lastly, I made up the forward windlass from boxwood strip and brass rod and strip.
 
Bob

Work is now completed on a bunch of items. These include the catheads, channels, hawse holes, pin rails, knightheads, timberheads and the rudder and tiller.
 
The rudder is the kit piece ,shaped and tapered, and coppered on it's lower portion. The pintles and gudgeons are shown by strips copper tape with nail holes punched in. All of the other items are made from boxwood strip,  cut, filed and drilled as appropriate to the various parts. All of the items were glued and pinned to the hull.
 
Bob

I've now coppered the lower hull. As I've said in recent updates, I'm not very confident about my current ability to do precision work. As a result, I opted to simplify the coppering process   . I used  the self adhesive copper tape and applied it in full length strips, rather than cutting it into individual plates. I scribed the plate lines in after the strips were applied. I also chose not to attempt to simulate nailing of the plates. I think the overall impression at this scale is OK, but definitely not as good as it would be if done more correctly. I've also chosen not to treat the copper. After looking at my Essex, which was done a few years ago, and left untreated, I like the way that the copper has aged naturally and will be happy if this model does the same.
 
Bob

I have now made up and installed the cap rail.The bow pieces were cut from boxwood sheet, using card templates, as was the piece over the transom.The remainder was done with boxwood strip, wet heat bent to shape.The entire rail was painted black, using Modelmaster acrylic engine black, with multiple coats , lightly sanded in between coats.
 
I also took the opportunity, before deck furniture creates obstructions, to drill the holes for and add the eyebolts for the gun tackle rigging. I also drilled the holes for the gun breeching line ringbolts, but these won't be added until the guns are mounted.
 
Bob

Thanks so much Martin and the "likes".Martin, I'm feeling somewhat better, but it's still affecting my modeling.
 
A couple of things accomplished. First, I added the wales. These were done with 1/16"x 1/8" boxwood strips. Although the instructions call for single strips of 1/16"x 1/4" on each side, I went to two strips to make bending and fitting easier. Scale length pieces were used for the same reason. The upper edge of the top strip was painted black before mounting to ease masking and painting. After the wales were mounted and painted, I then painted the area between the wales and the waterline black, as well.I got a little sloppy at the waterline, but that should be no problem ,since the copper will sharply define that line. Modelmaster acrylic engine black was used for all of the painting.
 
Bob

I've now done the upper hull planking. This is all of the planking above the wales.This was done with boxwood strip from the reopened Crown Timberyard. .Just as good as before. Fitting between the gunports and around the sweep ports was a pain, but not that difficult. After an initial sanding, I aded treenails by drlll and fill, using #75 holes and walnut filler. I'm not all that happy with the results, but in my current circumstances, I have no reason to believe that it would come out better if I did it all over again   The final step was to finish with Wipe-on Poly.
 
Bob