bdgiantman2

The 3/32 inch scale model of Speedwell could be very tempting, I also have a possible eye on the 1/48 scale model as already provided plans for in the books of the ship.

Just a small update on the progress.  Getting into the stern framing now.   But first I needed to add 3 more aft cant frames under the quarter piece.
 
The cant frames are self explanatory and the same as the others.    Just sand off the char and add them.  But before I added them under the quarter piece I had to glue a small block on the inside of the quarter piece on both sides.   The block is laser cut and matches the shape of the bottom of the quarter piece.   This makes the area thicker which we will need when we fair the inboard side.   This will all be covered up on the inboard side so it wont show.  It will be planked over on the inboard side.
 

The small blocks will be faired along with the inboard frames when we do that much later.  But it is probably a good idea to start that now and do a little preliminary removal of material.  Its just easier to do at this point.   I did it after gluing them in but they could just as easily be shaped before you glue them in.
 

 
Now the stern framing starts.   First up are the fashion pieces.  These are very very complex.   This hull has a square tuck much like the Cheerful.   So to simplify things it will be made in two layers.   Only the first layer will be added at this time.  They are laser cut for you and 5/32" thick.   There are laser etched lines on both sides.   You can see how I faired the shape into it following the etched reference line.   The two ends also need to be tapered slightly.  I am talking very slight tapering to sit against the deadwood and under the wing transom.   The other side of the piece has those etched reference lines.  Just sand in the bevel to match on both ends.  Then give it a test fit.
 


 
I found it easier to test fit these while the hull was upside down.  They will need to be 1/8" away from the stern post as mentioned.   This was easy enough to do.   I just drew a reference line in pencil.  I used a 1/8" wide strip and held it against the stern post and just drew the line on the deadwood.
 

When test fitting these the bottom will sit along the curved edge on the deadwood.   Right along the bearding line.  Try and get a nice clean and tight fit there.   The top end will fit under the bottom of the wing transom.   The aft edge is flush with the same on the wing transom.  Then I faired them along with those last three cant frames I added.  Its all coming together now.  Just a bit more framing to go.   
 
Next up will be that last aft cant frame.  It actually sits against the fashion piece we just added.  This is why that needed to be added first.  Then a small cant filler will be added which essentially finishes up all the hull framing.   After that there are the stern frames and a few odds and ends to finish it all up.
 

 
 
 

Nobody is getting rich selling this stuff unfortunately...but its a living!!!
 
Beats sitting behind a desk though....I prefer sitting in front of a workbench,  LOL.
 
So the quarter pieces are not that easy Greg!!!  Ok yes they are...
 
Basically there are two really not so hard things you must do to this piece before you glue it on the model.
 
First....sand a bevel onto the inboard side.   Not the outboard side with the laser etched reference lines.....the inboard side.   If you bevel the outboard side side the piece will be ruined.
 

Then step 2.....on the outboard side you have to bevel a few parts.   The two tabs that sit against the last aft cant frame.   And then the aft side of the piece.   As shown below.
 

 
Also note the reference marks for your fixed block and where the other aft cant frames will fall along the bottom edge.
 
Then glue it on...thats it.   The two tabs are flush with the outboard face of the cant frames.  This means you will need to fair the outboard side of the hull before you add these.  It wont work if you dont.  At least not as well.
 
Here are photos of both quarter pieces on the model.  They have been faired on the outboard side as well although not completely.   I will wait for those last few aft cant frames.
 

 

 
And I couldnt resist just test fitting the transom piece.  We wont need this for a while but if my design skills and concept didnt work for the hull framing and this didnt fit....then it would be firewood.   But lucky me it fit just perfectly.   The hull has ended up the perfect width and shape.
 
I can finish up the framing with confidence.  
 

LOL!  I've been waiting all day for this comment!

Greg is unhappy with you for turning an extremely difficult area of the model into a "fun" diversion. A lot of innocent boxwood pieces sacrificed their lives in order for me to successfully frame that area. And then there was the errant elbow strike elbow...
 
Seriously, brilliant work Chuck!

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

With the deck down in the hold done,I can began building the storage rooms,towards midship the beams are two piece which are milled out then fine tuned with files,not very complicated work to be done but  i ⁹really have to pay attention to where parts of the deck beams cut thru the walls in places.

Just a quick update...all of the aft cant cant frames in this step have been completed.  This includes framing the sill for the aft-most port and the frames there.  Then I just completed the remaining few.  Fairing was done on both sides as well.  But I still have to add the treenails to those aft cant frames.  I will do that first before moving forward to the next step.
 

 

 
There are still a few cant frames left but that will be done in the next step...
 
That will require a new jig along the top of the model for alignment and I must make the wing transom as well.
 
More updates to follow soon.   But its getting there.
 

 
 

I strongly agree with Vossy.  If new to wooden ship modeling, jumping in with scratch builds can be overwhelming.  Check out the topic "New to ship modelling? But what do you build first? " to get an idea of first time builds.  While these first time builds are not all that glamorous, they give a feel for how the wood works and insight into the various techniques.  I respectfully disagree with Gregory about the 16th Century Longboat.  I found that to be more advanced in that you need to be near the top of your game with your planking.  LIttle room for error.
 
    ....but your question was about tools.  Some of the tools I find most valuable are; Dremel or similar rotary tool, #11 Exacto knife or similar surgical scalpel, sand paper/sanding sticks (I use finger nail Emory boards and sandpaper glued to popcicle sticks), wood glue.  Clamps...you can never have too many clamps.  Acquire them as you need them.  Magnification.

Build board (pt.1)
The boards platform was made from a sheet of 1/2" MDF cut to 12”x 42".  For support I added primed 3/4”x 1 1/2” strips underneath. All of the strips where shaved on the table saw in order to establish a straight edge when gluing them to the board. The shorter cross strips were shaved slightly deeper than the two long ones in order to recess them. Clamps were used to hold everything in place while the glue dried overnight.

3/4" Polyester Felt Tape was added to the two long strips to allow for sliding the board on the work table. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01455QMX4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I primed the MDF with a few coats of Krylon colormaxx white primer. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K05584007-COLORmaxx-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B07LFWPFLC The primer was then lightly sanded smooth with a  flat sanding block and some 400 grit sandpaper. The build board was now ready for the plan sheet.
 
I trimmed the plan to a desired dimension, leaving a view of the lower frames on the sheet as a reference. To protect the printed lines I sprayed on some Krylon Workable Fixatif. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01306-Workable-Fixatif-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7U Once I established the positioning I placed some blue masking tape on the board to aid in the alignment of the sheet. I placed a centering tic mark on both the tape and plan sheet. I used Scotch Repositionable Spray Adhesive to adhere the plan to the build board. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Spray-Artists-Adhesive-MMM6065/dp/B00006IFBF My amazing wife helped me to hold this long sheet of paper while we carefully placed it on the board. 


Mike
 

Work continues.   Started on the aft cant frames.
 
The first thing that needed to be done was to add the aft cant frame jig.  This is added the exact same way as the fore cant frame jig.  Glue the small laser cut square under the last cross beam.   Then add the jig.  The jig like all the cross bars are not glued.  They are just taped together.  That works very well.
 
Make sure to line up the jig with your center line thread.  You have the etched reference lines on the cross jigs to do so.   But you will notice I also added the small cant frame strip for our first cant frame.   That is aft cant frame 24. It is the last slot in the jig.  You will need to line up the forward edge with the same mark on your base board plan.  Lining up this jig so your cant frames are even on both sides is very important.  As is making sure all your square frames were perpendicular to the keel and the same height etc, and all follow the center line.  
 
If for any reason you need to tweak this jig or any of the others, I have left some wiggle room.  Do that before taping.  In fact,  if I didnt mention this little tip before,  you can just add a toothpick as a shim on one side to adjust the aft jig until l you are back on the center line and your cant frames all line up with the base board plan.  This is a neat trick you can use with any of the cross bar spacers for the square frames as well.  It works really well to keep you on that center line.  I exaggerated in this photo so you can see how to adjust any of them.
 

Lining up the strip with the baseboard plan below...
 

Then just like the fore cant frames are started working my forward after assembling each cant frame.  They are made in two pieces.  I have added six working my way forward.  But now I will switch directions and start working from the other end of the jig for the next six. More pictures will follow when I get that done.
 
Note how two laser etched lines on that last cant frame 24 face aft.   Shown in red. That is important because we will need those to line up our some pieces later.
 
Also not how the first aft cant frame on the jig I added,  that same number 24...you have to make sure you place it in the correct deadwood slot. 

This is what the hull looks like at the moment.  I will work on the remaining aft cant frames this weekend.  Im getting close to completing all the hull framing.  It wont be long now.
 

 

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

First time I have seen this idea for the model display base but I like it and your hatches came out great!

Great progress, Mr. Passaro. Your model of the Speedwell looks amazing thus far, and I am looking forward to seeing much more happening with her.
 
Brian D

Yes that wont work at all.  I will absolutely do so.  Once I put the final touches on the template I will print both and show them.

Great progress, Mr. Passaro. Your model of the Speedwell looks amazing thus far, and I am looking forward to seeing much more happening with her.
 
Brian D

Great progress, Mr. Passaro. Your model of the Speedwell looks amazing thus far, and I am looking forward to seeing much more happening with her.
 
Brian D

Wonderful, we learn a lot of useful things in this thread.

To finish up the bow timbers I had two more to go.  The first of those was done exactly like the previous three.  But the last one is a bit different.  The filler that closes the gap is just a little bit different.
 
Step one is the same.   Shape the angle that will fit against the cant frame.  No biggie there.  There is a laser reference line for that just like the others.  But that is the only reference line laser etched.
 
Once shaped to fit against the cant frame,  test it on the model.  It should fir pretty good.   Then you need to take a sharp pencil and draw the next reference line yourself.  Just trace the shape of the cant frame edge onto to the filler as shown.  This will be your outboard hull reference.  Use that line and bevel just as you did in step two for the previous bow timbers.
 

 
It will look like this when you bevel and clean it up with a sanding stick.
 

You dont have to bevel the inboard edge.  We will need to trace that in pencil against the cant frame too.  But that is kind of tricky at this stage.  Once you take a look inside there you will understand.  There really isnt much to bevel inboard actually.   It is best to just leave the inboard side as is until after we remove all of the jigs and fair the inboard side later.  That will be done after planking.
 
But now you can go ahead and fair the outside bow timbers.  Fair them into the cant frames nicely.  Use a long batten to check how true and smooth the run of planks will be.  You dont want any dips.   Dont be afraid to really sand it good with coarse sandpaper first and then switch to a finer grit on your last pass.
 
You will notice that the bow timbers are too high and the tops should be trimmed down to match the sheer.   That can be done after fairing outboard.  Almost done fairing outboard below.  The tops of the bow timbers have been trimmed down as well.
 

How do you know where to trim down the head timbers?  Well you could measure up from your build board using the plans.  But I decided to take some considerable time to create a template.  Its quite an extensive template actually.   Basically its an expansion drawing to scale that shows every last detail of the outboard hull fittings.   
 
This includes the run of the planks at the bow and all ports....swivel stocks...scuppers and fixed blocks and channels with deadeyes....etc.
 
The bottom of this helpful template represents the top edge of the upper wales.  This is in fact how we will transfer the correct lines for the wales later.   But you can also use it to check the positions of all ports and also trim down the bow timbers to the sheer.  Just make sure you put it on both sides of the hull and have them even.
 
This template lines up at the bow based on the cheeks.  You can see on the plans how the upper cheek sits right on top of the upper wales and then transitions onto the stem.  You want to line up the cheek on the template where it will transition onto the stem.  This is important because you want to have everything line up when we work on the hawse holes and bolsters and headrails.
 
It will make locating everything quite easy I think.  I dont believe any other kit or even monograph has such a template and expansion drawing like this.  I thought I would try something new.
 
Time to start the aft cant frames...yippie!!!
 

Here is a quick look at the template.  When flat the expansion clearly shows the gentle "S" curve at the bow for planking run. I folks have a hard time getting this right so this should be a life-saver.  In fact, with all the planks at the bow now shown with their shape and taper this leaves no guesswork at all.  When the time comes we will transfer those planking lines to the frames.  No tick strips needed.   Lining off will be much easier.
 

 
 

The Bow Timbers
 
These arent very difficult to make and build.  But yes...you do have to take your time and go through all of the steps with each bow frame.  They are laser cut with all kinds of reference lines on both sides of each frame.   There are also laser cut spacers that go between each bow timber.  They are 3/64" thick.   In fact the first piece we will add is right next to the upper apron.  It is 3/64" thick and the easiest part to add.  This is being used for one purpose only.  It is being added to make the upper apron wider before we add the actual bow timbers and spacers.  They are labelled P1 and S1....respectively for the port and starboard sides.  You do have to bevel the heel to fit tight against the cant frame.  But thats pretty simple to do with a sanding stick.  To position this piece properly on the side of the apron, Just make the forward edge flush with the shape of the upper apron.  See the arrow in the photo.
 

Below is the first actual bow timber (bollard timber) on the port side....P2
 
Lets start shaping it. 
 
Note all the reference lines.  There are more on the other side.
 
This shouldnt be scary at all for folks who havent done this.  Just carefully go through the steps one at a time.  This would be so easy if you had a disc sander etc.  But as I mentioned, I will be doing all shaping and sanding by hand.   I am just using a #11 blade and some sanding sticks and sandpaper.   Thats it.  I know that many of you
dont have a disc sander.  

Step 1...Concentrate on establishing the angle on the heel of the bow frame.   This angle is the same for every bow timber.  There is a laser etched line on one side for this purpose.  But to help see the correct bevel, I lightly sanded both sides to remove some char.    Then I drew a pencil line to better see the actual angle and what needs to be removed.  This is done on every Bow timber as step one.
 

There are countless ways to create this angle....sanding....cutting...disc sander...you name it.   But his was how I did it.  
 
I first used my #11 blade to slice most of the meat away.  I did this carefully only taking off a thin slice with each pass.  The blade actually slices through the cedar like butter.  Just get the heavy stuff off close to the reference line for now.
 

Then use a wide flat sanding stick to take it to the finish line.  Keep the stick flat and always touching the surface.  Sand slow and you wont round off the face as is typical if you quickly stroke back and forth.  Go slow and deliberate.   
 

If by chance you actually do round off that beveled face its OK...
 
You can take some medium grit sandpaper and bend it loosely.  Then once again sand slowly and deliberately.   But this time keep the folded sandpaper only in the center of the face as if you were trying to make it concave.  But in actuality you are just removing any rounded areas to get it back to a perfectly flat face.   This shouldnt be needed if you are careful with the sanding stick.   But yes a disc sander would take care of this in about 30 seconds.
 
But you can get a really tight joint doing it by hand…the old fashioned way.
 

Test the bow timber on the model....
 
How does that beveled angle sit against the cant frame?   Nice and tight?
 

Note the bevel line and how it lines up with the edge of the cant frame.   All of the bow timbers should all line up this way or at least be very close.
 

How do you know how high against the upper apron this should be placed?
 
There is a laser etched reference line on the back side that lines up with the top of the apron.  See below.  After this all of the remaining bow timbers and spacers will all be at the same height basically.  We will trim them all down to the nice shear line later after they are all placed on the model.
 

Ok that was step one.  Not so bad although I am trying to give you a ton of detail.
 
Now step two....
 
Adding the bevels (basically pre-fairing each bow timber inboard and out).  Once again my preference is to just use a sharp #11 blade.  Replace your blade the moment it gets dull.  I am just shaving from the edge to the etched reference line.  Go slow.   Only shave a little at a time.   Dont go all the way to the line yet.   Use a sanding stick for that.  But this goes pretty quickly.  What is most important is to shave with the grain.   Not against it....just like your 5 o'clock shadow. 
 
If you shave the wrong way it just wont work.   You will make a mess and break chunks off ruining the bow timber.  But if you are going in the right direction...it cuts like butter...really.
 
In fact here is a little tip.   You will have to reverse directions on each half of the bow timbers.  They are curved and the grain is different on each end.  You will know what I mean when you try this.  You will have a nice little pile of shavings.
 

Then clean it up with a sanding stick.
 
The outboard side looks like this.  Note the spacer ready to be glued onto the bow timber.  Do this before you glue it on the model.
 

And the inboard side.  All sliced with a #11 blade close to the bevel line...then cleaned up with a sanding stick.
 

Step 3.....actually thats about it.  I guess step 3 is just gluing the spacer onto the side of the bow timber.  A laser etched line is there which shows exactly where is should go.  Line up the outboard edges flush.
 
Then step 4....glue it on the model.  Dont forget to place this first one at the proper height.  Use that refernce line on the back side I mentioned earlier.
 

 
It is really not too bad at all...
 
Then just repeat this with the other bow timbers...but dont forget to use another loose spacer when you glue it in position.  See the pic below that shows the third bow timber just after gluing it.  You want the air spaces to be nice and even between these timbers.  So use another scrap piece of 3/64" thick wood along the lower end to help you with that.   Make sure you dont glue it in place.   You want to remove the spacer when you are done.
 

 
I have just two more to go.   I will do those tomorrow.  Sorry about the long post but this log is really my notes for writing the instructions later.  I dont want to forget anything.