Landrotten Highlander

BINGO! Thank you, LH! That’s EXACTLY what happened!

Thanks @druxey.
 
I have continued with the frames, and have added at least one pair of tree nails to each of them to make sure that they stay in place.

Return to lettered frames.
#F- my framing plan seems to show a thinned fore face of the fore upper futtock to allow for sweep port. 
Decided again to postpone mortesses until framing completed to avoid height issues.( Although using the mill before fitting, mistakes may necessitate remaking frame.
#E- no shift mentioned, but will need one aft to accommodate another sweep port. 
#D-  In order to allow sweep port foreward and gun port aft ,fore D is straight ie without shift, a wider 3mm space needed between seats of #E aft and #D foreward.
   #D is also a bend pair-spacers required.
#C-aft has forward shift for port . The distance between these frame determined by port width and therefore between #Cfore and #Daft, only 1mm.Between #C’s, 2mm
NOTICED MAJOR ERROR. The earlier shifts were cast i.e.dog leg. This was employed incorrectly on some frames such as #G. I think I can correct this with a file while frame attached- I don’t particularly want to remove and rebuild. 
#B- spacers On framing plan, more and different pattern, but same plan doesn’t show anything special either side of the central #0, which is clear on individual frame plans of TFFM. Will therefore continue pairs of spacers as before.
 
Return to numbered frames. 
ANOTHER MISTAKE.
My reference mark on frame/plan is now obscured, and some movement seems to have occurred. Premarking frame placing is difficult as this is determined as the build develops.
Using the aft point of keel and joints near the stem, gives some discrepancy. I can’t understand why. I've checked multiple times. Difficult to blame expansion or contraction of wood.
The difference is only couple of mm, but I will have to treat the remaining frames as a group, so as to maintain consistent gaps while maintaining rules for port widths.
 
#5- Aft timberhead. Fore foreward shift ? to avoid too large a gap when the aft#4 also shifts.
#4- aft has a foreward cast (dogleg) . I now remember the difference.
       Fore- simple 
#3 Bend pair- spacers
#2 Aft shifted forward.for sweep port
 
I’ve mentioned problems with spacing to allow for these sweep ports. In truth, lost sleep over this. Caught up with Kevin’s video, where he mentions thousand confirms the solution I had been toying with only as I was unsure if “acceptable”.He points out the plan actually show the opening into the frame itself one one side. Now I can SEE the solution for myself once my attention is drawn to it.
(How often in life is something obvious once it has been highlighted- in medicine we often see cases after a certain syndrome or sign is reported , as if it previously didn’t exist)

Are you certain you used the right gears? 
When I compare all pictures it appears to me you have the Mercury gears working fine, but there is a discrepancy with the Venus gear - in the instructions the gear-pair on the Venus stage appear to be of similar size, while yours appear to be very different.
 
Before the lockdown I worked with a group of people on the Hachette Victory, and in that project one had to be very careful, as very often the wood for two or 3 teps further would be delivered with one issue.  For instance, you were provided with kit parts in issue G, but when carfully looking at the instructions you need part of the wood provided with G, but also some provided with D and some wood would be left for a step discussed in issue P.
 
Did I confuse you?  So were we at first...

@Jorge Diaz O
Thank you very much for your positive comment. Also many thanks to all for the many LIKES.
 
In the meantime I have also finished the fore topmast shrouds (ø 0.67 mm). The diameter of the dead eyes is ø 3.1 mm. 

 

 

Continuation 
 
 

 

 

 
 
Pawel

Hello and many thanks for your nice comments and likes
Today only a small update, the second layer of paint. Now the hull looks a little more even.
 

 
And like the ship to the left at the following picture, would look ships whose paint bleached out or washed away. Dark brown! And it's brown, not black. You may see ships of that color also at paintings from Dominic Serres. Especially in his pictures about the Havana campaign. When the ships came from the now ended seven years war in North America without a stop at the shipyard to get there yearly re-painting.
 

 
It is a painting done by Charles Brooking „Shipping Becalmed in the Solvent“. I bought this print some years ago from the NMM. From that painting also arose the idea to build a 60 gunner of that period. 
It's a nice scene, the ships drying there sails, the cleaning crew clean up the traces from the morning toilets of ≈500 men and the first tourists making a great port tour. 😉 
 

Improoving cannon rigging scale

Hi Guys,
 
Not much inspiration today... so just a small update 🙃
 
So far mizzen and main mast are done with shrouds and lanyards.
Just one more to go... foremast.
 
Few quick photos.
 
Single shroud and my way of making eye.
I'm cutting end of served rope at angle and forming an eye.
One drop of CA to keep this in desire shape and hand made serving over the glue point.
 

 

 
 
Main mast head with laid sequence of tackles and shrouds.
 

 
 
...and quick shoot on channel with lanyards.
 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

I think I can do peanut butter and banana, but bologna and whipped cream sounds pretty nasty 🤢
 
I've been making some progress on the Shimakaze the last few nights.  I'm adding what I can to the hull that won't get broken off (or has less of a chance of getting broken off) so I can paint everything in one shot before adding the linoleum deck sections.  I retried using Gator's Grip glue, and really like it.  I had tried it with my earlier 1/700 build but had a hard time getting it to work without being too messy, but it was probably user error.  So, depending on what I'm gluing and where, I will use plastic cement (Testor's squeeze tube), the Mr. Hobby and Tamiya jars of liquid cement with the brush in the handle, medium CA, two-part epoxy, and now Gator's Grip.  It was a little overwhelming seeing all those adhesive options when starting out in plastic, but I think I've now figured out how each can play a role in the modeling process.
 
In the meantime, I've got quite a bit of the bridge finished.  Lots of pretty brass to dress it up.  The kit isn't too bad, but the Infini set really dresses it up.  For example, the windows in the kit are decals applied over a plastic solid piece.  I like the Infini approach of using PE instead.  The Hasegawa PE upgrade set has a similar PE set of windows, but I liked how the Infini ones looked a little more.  It doesn't look like much, but this was hours of work!  Definitely helped to have the experience working in 1/700 scale.
 
I think I might pause here and paint the interior of the window section before adding the roof.  So far I'm pretty happy how this is coming out.  The Infini set is very precise.  Their ladders where steps fold out are a bit touchy though (two of them disintegrated when I tried to fold the side handle rails), and I had to use the Hasegawa upgrade set for a pair.  I just need to figure out a better approach to folding them I think.  I was regretting getting the Hasegawa upgrade set as it was essentially duplicated (and bettered) by the Infini set, but now I'm glad as I have a spare to fall back on if I screw things up -- which is very likely!
 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!

Hello,
the painting marathon continues. First in repair, and repair the repair and so on. An endless story. But then I started with the first layer at the middle of the hull. Three layers should follow. 🙁 This is a lighter color to cover the different wood shades. 
 

Hi All,
 
Currently I'm involved in unequal fight with shrouds and lanyards 😆
Maybe it's not perfect... but I'm doing my best to do it properly.
At the moment I have completed mizzen mast and I'm in the middle of main mast.

Obviously lanyards are loose at that stage. Final adjustments will be done when all shrouds and stays will be in place. 

For equal distance between deadeyes I'm using this happy jig 😛
Rope of main mast lanyards 0,4mm
 

 
 
Mizzen mast "ready" however excess of the ropes still not circumcised to final length 😆😛
Rope of mizzen mast lanyards 0,25mm
 

 
 
See you next time!
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hello,
yes Druxey, I learned it the hard way. But at least I got it.
 
  But now, my nearly new model!  
The next days I would paint also the rest of the hull, before I start carving the scrolls within the hansing pieces. 
 
 
 

 

 

 

I've got a bit ahead of the instructions because, one - I needed a break from woodwork, two - I'm finding more and more that the castings, plans and dimensions rarely match so I'm laying out all the exterior decoration now so I can make sure everything will fit properly before putting woodwork in the way.
 

Hi all, a little update from me, slowly process...
 

 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Thank you for your kind words.
 
I look forward to your Sutton Hoo ship @Schrader. After your earlier projects it will certainly be well worth following.
 
I have glued a few frames, and started to tree nail them. The hull, which is surprisingly stable even without the frame, quickly becomes much more rigid when the frames are fixed at just two points.
 

To claybaker and garyshipwright - These milling cutters are manufactured by a number of manufacturers in the world, so it does not matter which manufacturer you choose. There are several of these manufacturers on aliexpress. I myself chose the "Chinese variant" because it is significantly cheaper and will do the same service as more expensive milling cutters.
Installation of quarterdeck deck beams.

Hello and thank you for all,
after a lot more pain I'm mostly ready with the Drift rails. 😄  Only a small quarter circle is left. 
 

 
Because you could't see very much of the details when the rails are painted, I made some pictures before painting them. When I'm ready with the Drift rails I have to start painting the hull before making the rest of the decoration.
 

 

 

I wanted to have a lighter craddle for the 74, so I did another the V4 version.
 
V1: as usual on wheels. The biggest disadvantage no height adjustment. I repeat it working at the good height, makes the difference.
 
V2: Transformed an hydraulic chair into a height adjustable hydraulic piston. I added a blocking mechanism on the piston so that the table does not turn around the piston.
 
V3:  Transformed a dentist chair into a height adjustable table. The angle of the table was adjustable too but there was no real use to it. It was heavy and as I grow older, i do not get stronger. The way to make the table to move in a more easier way is to change the wheels. I bought a 8 inches sets that I will receive in a few weeks.
 
V4: Additionally, I decided to change, again the table for an electric table. The 2 most important  specs are the minimum height adjustment and the weight it can lift. This table is rated for 275 pounds. The model weight around 100  and the cherry wood table between 30 and 60 pounds. The only thing I kept from the previous chair are the wheel base that I have temporarily fit until I receive the new wheel set. Actually the 2 wood bases are parallel to the feet. In the last photo, at the maximum height, we can observe that the leg want to open slightly. With the new wheel set, the wood base will be perpendicular to the metal feet, this way the feet will not move.

I might add that the this ship only has oarlocks in the middle of the ship, where the sides are somewhat parallel and the distance to the water is relatively even. The difference in angle to the water for the oars on the different position is in practice not that big. On another ship the situation might be different. I'm not sure that my experience can be generalized, but Cap'n Atli's experience seem to support it.
 
In the build I have completed the majority of the riveting. Only a few hard to reach ones in the narrow parts of the fore and aft remains. I have cut the pins close to the washers with scissors. This leaves a small peg sticking up. To flatten it (and to mimic a real rivet) I melted the peg with a soldering iron and flattened it using flat steel rod (I think it's called a mandrel in English).
 

 
With all the rivets done I have started with installing the frames. First I glue them, then I will drill holes and add tree nails. After some thought I think that it is easiest to wait with the stain on the frames until after the tree nails are installed (so that they can get the correct color as well).
 
To the left some of the last rivets in the fore have just been installed and the washers have just been glued in place.
 

 

Here's a quick update:

 

 
 
 

Square frames #10to-#6
#10-straightforward
Just remember that floor is aft and maintain position to the horizontal line  as marked on the breadth plan.
#9-spacers and fore with timberhead
As these are “simpler” I made them with less “spare” and used as a more accurate guide to fairing.
Double check that the frames are “vertical”-90deg to the building board.
#8- Aft with timberhead and forward shift.
Forgot to mill mortises and only noticed after fitting the next set of frames- maybe for the best and decide to leave to later.
#7 - a bend pair (with spacers)
The frame spacing on the breadth  plan and framing plan needs to accommodate this spacing as well as the port gap between aft#8 and fore#7.
I narrow spacers to 2mm
Perhaps if I had made the frames with diminishing thickness, this would be less of a problem. (If and when I repeat this build, this is what I will do)
#6- the aft must accommodate the sweep port. It has a shift foreward low at 1st futtock.
Again, spacing on keel needs reassessing with each placement.
 
Some delay since last post -work and family restrict building time-conflict of priorities!!
I post a picture of a younger member of the family- dressed up  as “Woody”
From Toy Story. The name justifies the connection to the hobby

Hi All,
 
This time... finally some rigging 🍻
 
Side tackle and garnet tackle.
For the time being garnet tackle pendant and guy will be removed as it will go over the shrouds.
Obviously running rigging is not yet fixed permanently. It will be necessary with shrouds and stays to do some tension adjustments.
 
Garnet tackle and side tackle were used for loading purposes and also for some heavy job on board... lifting of heavy ropes, cannons, etc...
When not in used side tackle were not rigged and garnet tackle pendant and guy were secured.
 
Next step... shrouds.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Matt

Tiller and ruder inplace