newbuilder101

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 103 – Planking and Wales continued
 
The work proceeds apace.  Post-holiday lull and the winter weather helps.  Work on the lower hull requires either some gymnastics or some other support for the model.  The first picture shows the simple setup that allows the model to be tilted as needed – a very un-shipyard-like look.
 

 
The wale on this side is about one-half planked in this picture.  The next picture shows the wale planks converging at the lowest perimeter strake at the stern.
 

 
The brass rod is the diameter of the gudgeon eyes and is being used to mark the center of the helm port by laying it on the sternpost.  In the next picture a hole for the port has been roughed out.
 

 
The rudder head was round and was encased at the port in a sleeve – wood or iron – to prevent ingress of water.  The diameter of the rudder shaft was 16” – matching the sternpost.  With the sleeve the opening will take up much of the area as yet unplanked.  I decided to fill the area with a single chock as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A circular opening for the sleeve and rudder head will be cut through this later.  In the next picture the hole has been centered.
 

 
Additional wale strakes are being added in this picture.  In the next picture the final piece on the port side has been boiled and is being fitted to dry.
 

 
The planks on this side are being stepped back at each frame to allow the stern area to be completed without adding more strakes on this unplanked side.  Hence these last two pieces are very short – the lowest will be half the length shown.
 
The next picture shows the final wale strake in place at the stern on the starboard side.
 

 
This side will be planked down below the waterline so there are more strakes to be fitted at the stern.  These will diminish down to the thickness of the common lower planking.
 
I don’t want to use this forum to pitch the forthcoming book, but I feel that a few words are in order, since several people have asked about it. 
 
Bob Friedman of Seawatchbooks and I were both quite enthused about a book on American clipper ship modeling.  We both felt this was a neglected area.  However, I had some concerns about another “full framing” methodology book that would be a rehash of previous material.  I was also concerned about writing a book about a large, fairly advanced structural model that would probably appeal mainly to a small slice of experienced modelers.
 
 It took some time for me to resolve these issues and decide to write the book – two books hopefully – the first on modeling the hull and the second on masting and rigging. 
 
Like the Naiad books – and unlike this build log – the books will be very heavy on methods – I like the word processes.  As work on YA progressed, the processes used were both different enough and in some ways unique and this allayed some of my concerns about redundancy. 
 
However, I still wanted to reach a broader range of modelers – specifically potential or less-experienced scratchbuilders looking for a foothold and some help on methods.  To this end the book will also include methods, drawings, text and pictures for construction of a smaller, simpler POB version of the model.  The processes developed for this model are designed to provide a basis for advancement to fully-framed modeling using the upright, shipyard-like, methods that many of us favor.  The planned volume on rigging – if we get that far – will apply to both versions. Simpler tools, fewer fancy devices and readily available materials will also be used for the POB model.
 
To support this important content, a second, 1:96 POB model is being constructed.  Until making the book decision, I have been careful to exclude this from posted pictures but that precaution is now no longer necessary so I will show one picture of the current work area with both models in progress.
 

 
Although having two models in the shop has exponentially increased the clutter, the biggest problems are keeping the two scales straight and using the right drawings – and getting all  the work done on schedule.
  
Ed

As promised yesterday the pictures.
 
Now I can play with the  2 mm blocks......
When the first one is done I will post another picture of that to see if I'm on the right track.
Enjoy your sunday and do the things that you have to do.
 
Sjors
 
 

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

No more detours or distractions - the final planking is done!!! (YAY)
Spiling the planks at the bow took considerable time, but was well worth the effort. Thankfully, I had plenty of wide sheets of wood to allow for this technique.
 
Without further ado - an update!
 

 

 

 

 

 

I really like Michael's "definition" for what I am doing.
It's actually quite true.
 
So....I did some more "juggling the order" and decided to carve the figurehead. It's not that I don't like planking, it's just a tad monotonous compared to other tasks.
 
The figurehead is in 2 pieces and was hand carved from a small block of basswood. The scalpel in the photo is for size comparison.
 
The figurehead appears larger than it really is when dry fitted on the stem because of the angle of the photograph. (That being said - it is probably a little off scale, but I'm happy with and will leave it as is.)
 

 

 

The second planking is tedious and time consuming and seems to be moving at a snails pace, which I blame on spiling of the bow planks!
 
For a change of pace, I decided to make the display base.
 
I found these little gems, by accident, at the local hardware store.   A little cutting sanding and slotting transformed them into pedestals and saved me setting up the lathe!  
 

 

 
Before and after.
 

 
My next door neighbor, and cousin, is a cabinet maker. A little scrounging in his "scrap" bin revealed a lovely piece of ash. He discarded it because it had a slight bow and he would lose the needed thickness if planed. Since I didn't need a "standard" or set thickness, it was off the jointer and then the planer to remove the offending curve. (He was kind enough to perform those steps for me)
After cutting it to the desired dimensions, (6"x14") I dusted off the router and gave it a Roman Ogee profile - without the top step.
 

 
This is the end result, but nothing is fixed permanently at this stage.
 

 
That's it for now...back to planking....

It seems that this summer has been more busy than usual, which means the shipyard has been fairly quiet.
Thought I'd include a couple of pictures of our garden bounty. The cherry tomato plants, that I'm standing behind, went a little crazy this year. I'm 5'7" and they are a couple of feet above my head!
 

 

 
I have a small update as well:
 
The upper portion of the second planking is complete. I've made and installed the support beams and columns for the fore deck, and the second planking is done on the lower section of the stern - not sure of the name of this part - it's the thick section below the lower gallery.
 
I salvaged a beautiful block of cherry wood from the wood pile and have been drying it now for a couple of months. I'm thinking of using it for the deck furniture etc.......but first, the rest of the planking.
 

 

 

 

I finally have a small update!
It's been very busy...brother had a heart attack, daughter broke her foot...and that was just one day!
Anyway, things have settled down now and I have a chance to work on my San Felipe!
 
Even though I was "coping" well and not "fretting" too much with my hand sawing...I now have a scroll saw!
The first picture shows the brand new saw that lasted about 3 1/2 minutes...until the plastic bearing collar broke and parts flew!
The second picture shows the used scroll saw that I replaced it with (all metal, 22 inch). It works like a charm!
 

 

 
This is the finished knee of the head/keel parts that I fine tuned until they fit properly.
 

 
Next up was the building slip and attached false keel.
 

 

 
 

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Mark/SJSoane: I think my main problem is the small scale at which I am working. It can be done apparently, but it was more trouble than it was worth to me. 
After a few tries I got a decent rubber mold, but I struggled with the polyester resin sticking to the mold. I tried the dilute vaseline, corn starch, and talc as release agents - none of which worked for me. Apparently there is a release agent for purchase, but I didn't want to commit any more money to this one project. I did get a few cannons that were okay, but I like my paper ones better. The biggest problem was the resin fumes, which left me with huge headaches and sinus problems every time I used it. When I finally made the connection, I stopped using resin and no more symptoms.
 
Popeye: Thank-you! I am happy with the results.
 
Grant: Thank-you! It's great to be back. Hopefully I can find more time to finish these guns soon.
 
Elia: Thank-you! I know what you mean about finding alternative processes, and this one seems to work for me.
 
Patrick: Thank-you as well!
 
Bob: Thank-you on both counts!
 
Sjors:        Thank-you! Paper is a LOT cheaper too, than buying more than 100 brass cannons.
 
Mark: Thank-you! The casabels are made from polymer clay.

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Thanks  Michael  and Augie ! 
Fortunately I only have to make 36 full cannons - the other 70+ are half/dummy cannons. I'm  thinking that my next build will be weaponless!

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Sherry,
 
Ment to post a couple of days ago. Welcome back, great work with your cannons (:-)
 
Michael

Mizzen Topmast Stay
 
First thing to make for the stay was the mouse. I turned it on my lathe the same as the previous ones for the lower stays :
 

 
The stay fits around the mizzen topmast in a similar fashion to the lower stay :
 

 
A lead block is served and stropped to the main mast head :
 

 
The lower end of the stay has a block seized to it. Another block is attached to an eyebolt adjacent to the foot of the mast via a pendant. A lanyard joins the two blocks :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Another small update.....
 
New additions include the vertical strips of wood on the hull mid-ship. I'm not sure of the name or function of these timbers, but I'm wondering if they could be for protection of the hull when the lowering of the ship's boats? 
 
Also added are more ornamentation pieces, such as the eagles and the piece at the top of the gallery door.
Now to make these same pieces for the port side.
 

 

 

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Great looking guns.   What did you use for the casabels?  Is that wood or paper?

Hi Doris     
 
Amazing what you can do with paper !!!!!!!!
That looks so perfect !
And from me also....welcome home !
 
Sjors

Very nice.  Both the cannons and you being back.
 
Bob

Incredible cannons!!! And better yet, made out of paper!

Sherry,
 
It is great to see another update on your build, and those cannon look great! As one who doesn't own a lathe and has to find alternative processes and materials to what typically would be lathe turnings, i appreciate and applaud your extremely sharp looking 'mixed medium' cannons. Well done!
 
Cheers
 
Elia

Nice to see you back in the shipyard Sherry. Your canons look terrific.