ca.shipwright

one more. reposted
Screwed up with the photos
 
 

Thank You Richard!!!!!!!!!

Could not resist the $349 price from Model Expo. It now resides on the shelf awaiting it's turn. I will be watching your build with great interest.
 
Regards

Hi Les,
Check my March 31 post if you haven't already. It may give you some ideas. As everyone says, the work is in the preparation, filling and sanding to very smooth. Then a primer. Several thinned coats work much better than one thick coat.
 
Regards

I built the Bluenose II and wanted a midnight blue color for the upper hull and a rust red for below the waterline. I couldn't find what I wanted in any brand of paint. I went to Lowes and looked at all their paint color chips and found the colors I wanted. I had them make me a trial jar of each color using eggshell acrylic base. I thinned this 20% with distilled water, Brushed on several coats, and finished with a satin Wipe-on-poly. Came out very nice. At $3.95 for an 8 oz. jar, you can't beat this.

Thank You Richard!!!!!!!!!

Beautiful wok EJ.
 
 

If you mean his Saw operation guide, I created a PDF copy - see this link https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14965-looking-for-jeffs-hobbymill-saw-operation-guide/&do=findComment&comment=466069
 
Richard.

Anyone know where Jeff Hayes' article he posted on milling wood now resides?
 
Thanks

Anyone know where Jeff Hayes' article he posted on milling wood now resides?
 
Thanks

Very nice indeed.

I built the Bluenose II and wanted a midnight blue color for the upper hull and a rust red for below the waterline. I couldn't find what I wanted in any brand of paint. I went to Lowes and looked at all their paint color chips and found the colors I wanted. I had them make me a trial jar of each color using eggshell acrylic base. I thinned this 20% with distilled water, Brushed on several coats, and finished with a satin Wipe-on-poly. Came out very nice. At $3.95 for an 8 oz. jar, you can't beat this.

Hi Les,
Check my March 31 post if you haven't already. It may give you some ideas. As everyone says, the work is in the preparation, filling and sanding to very smooth. Then a primer. Several thinned coats work much better than one thick coat.
 
Regards

I built the Bluenose II and wanted a midnight blue color for the upper hull and a rust red for below the waterline. I couldn't find what I wanted in any brand of paint. I went to Lowes and looked at all their paint color chips and found the colors I wanted. I had them make me a trial jar of each color using eggshell acrylic base. I thinned this 20% with distilled water, Brushed on several coats, and finished with a satin Wipe-on-poly. Came out very nice. At $3.95 for an 8 oz. jar, you can't beat this.

Greetings,
Time for another update. I started over last week after receiving the new framing from Mantua and have just about caught up to where I was before.

There are several pictures and I will have several photo posts along with this.

The ship is coming along rather nicely. A couple of millimeters off here and there to be adjusted later.
The first photo shows how much less the beam is on the model than the actual ship according to the AOS.

The blue bands that are holding the bow blocks together until the glue sets are the disposable tourniquets that the blood suckers err phlebotomists are using now. They work real well on any non parallel surface.

There are many recurring measurements on this ship that introduce a chance of small errors from repeating viewing. I remembered a method from my wood working days of cabinet and furniture making that helps. They are called story sticks. You put the distance on the stick one time and draw the line on the work piece. It's a lot easier that moving a ruler around each time and gives me more consistency.    The jars have all the pieces for the gun port frames that I made while I was waiting for the parts to arrive.   You can see two braces that I installed on the quarterdeck bullworks. I got tired of breaking these pieces off because there was no framing support. They are thin enough to disappear when the inside planking goes on.

Here come the photos           _______________
Michael Zemmel
Midlothian, VA
Completed: AVS, MS Benjamin W. Latham
Building: Corel HMB Endeavour, Panart HMS Victory,
"Buy all your toys before you retire"
ma.zemmel@gmail.com                
                                                 

E J
A great looking gun carriage
 
Regards

Beautifully done E J. Your photos are super- keep them coming.
 
Regards
 
Sold my La C.- can't work in 1:100 anymore. But I am continuing to follow your log. It is very inspirational as is the LSR.
 
Regards

Very nice indeed.

Very nice indeed.

Very nice indeed.

It looks like there will be a cascade of problems associated with that 1 mm. Mantua got the money and I got the replace parts for the framing in 4 days. Great service! Assembled all the framing, counters, bow filler blocks, and cut the rabbet. I have misplaced my ebony stern post. Hopefully it will show up or I will make another out of boxwood.
 
When I was cutting the bow filler blocks, the top view as taken from AOS was wider than the first bulkhead. This caused me to scratch my head and what the h***. I then copied the entire forward portion of the main deck and lay it across the ship from the bow to mid ship. Surprisingly, it was at least an inch wider than the Mantua hull framing. It looks like Mantua took some liberties the the kit design. The entire ship's beam is at least 1 inch narrower the the AOS drawings. She is still a monster.
 
Terry- I was following Bob's practicum with my homemade framing parts. This is not an easy build, but, Bob's practicum is so detailed that you almost can't go wrong if you read the section once, and then read it again. If you do purchase the practicum, and I highly recommend it, there are a couple of errata that I can fill in for you. Not having the correct dimensional material and my lack of skills all added to the continuation of the problems. The biggest was that almost all the gun ports had to be cut into the bulkheads. This was not a task I was willing to try. And, it would have seriously degraded the structural integrity of the hull.
 
Photos will follow soon
 
Regards

Greetings,
As a follow up to the previous post: Score bulkhead extensions 2, shipwright 0.
 
Now for an update:
 Had a good weekend in the shipyard. That leaning #2 bulkhead (see previous photos) irritated me so much, I spent half a day digging into the assembly to straighten it out. I used ethanol to loosen the Welbond and a dental burr to widen the slots. Worked like a charm.
 
I was able to complete the bow filler block, the wing transom, the upper/lower counter block and the stern rudder post. All came out very well in my humble opinion.
Pictures below

Back again,
The frame is now all glued up. Not too shabby. BH #2 slightly tilted forward. I'll move the slot for the sub-deck and that should take care of it.

Back again,
 
All of the bulkheads, center keel and hold downs have been fabricated. I used a Forstner drill pit to get big access in the lower portion of the bulkhead cut out. I had to make the top hold down 3 times in order to get the slots to line up. Somehow my template did not come out correct. I took a strip and placed it over the plans and took the slots off that way. I also gave up on the scroll saw and cut the slots on the table saw, standing the strip on edge with a backer board and the blade set to the depth of the slot. Two passes gave the required width. Only messed up a couple of the slots. I should have done both hold downs together in one pass. In a perfect world I would have done the center keel as well but the stem and stern are too high. I dry fitted the whole assembly and much to my surprise, all of the bulkheads landed on the bearding line on both sides. This was a major event and I gave my self a Stella Artois at-a-boy.
Next the glue up and some pictures.
 
Regards to all

The previous post shows a homemade shaper table clamped in my woodworkers front vice. A generic mototool drives the sander. Thank you whomever you are; I can't rember where I saw this, for posting and sharing this apparatus. It works great.
 
Regards from the "Plagerizer - in - Chief."