ca.shipwright

Thanks Danny. Postage from AUS is $50 US for a total of $122 US. I am going to do what Doug did and watch and wait for a reasonable price. My Connie build is probably 2 years out- lots of time yet.

Thanks Kurt and Doug.
 
A world wide search turned up 42 copies for sale. Prices were $195.00 to $4995.00 (no typo). I must be loosing my mind. I can wait. The Connie is about 18 months out on the ways as I work on my Victory.

Thanks Danny. Postage from AUS is $50 US for a total of $122 US. I am going to do what Doug did and watch and wait for a reasonable price. My Connie build is probably 2 years out- lots of time yet.

Well,
Under the heading of "If it seems to good to be true, it usually is". Just received notice that the AOS Constitution,from Bookbyte, is all of a sudden out of stock and a refund is issued. So much for the bargain. The seller must have woken up.

Amazing isn't it. Thanks again Ken

Thanks Ken. It's on the way.
 
Chuck- it did not occur to me that a PDF copy would be a copyright violation. With all the e- everything, including books, I thought it was legitimate. My apologies. I like to think I am more ethical than this.
 
Bye the way, it appears that the book is out of print. Even the Constitution Museum store where I ordered it 3 weeks ago can't get a copy.

Starboard side planking completed
 
The starboard hull planking is finished except for the bow area. There were lots of challenges in planking the Victory’s hull. The first challenge is that the optics of the sheer of the planking colliding with the straight, parallel lines of the stripes gets very confusing. Even with the hull lined out and light stripes colored, it takes a huge amount of concentration to get what you are trying to accomplish. Am I doing a sheer plank or a split plank for the stripe, or both?
Ebonizing the boxwood with India Ink to simulate the ebony worked better than I hoped. The India Ink and wipe on poly were put on the strips that I milled after the milling and before installation. It does pay to put a dab of the ink on the end of the cut plank before you glue it.
First lesson:
The sheer of the ship has to flatten out as you approach amidship. No matter how you try, the planking wants to angle to level rather than curve into the bend. Not to worry; it all works out in the end.
Second lesson:
My doing the 1/32” lip on  the gun port leaves a lot to be desired. They vary too much and most are too wide. This is due to variation of the between ports strips being not exactly even. Trying to shave them down to make the 3 or 4 planks once they are glued is messy and not very effective. I have a solution for the port side. I will edge glue these planks and then trim them using either the True Sander or the Byrnes disc sander to get the exact length. Should give me a nice straight edge and my sought after 1/32” lip.
Third lesson:
My use of the red Sharpie did not work well. It smeared when rubbed with the Wipe-on-Poly and looks terrible. I tried to redo the lips and inside of the port with bulworks red paint. This is another task that in next to impossible. I am going to have to live with this on the starboard side. I am going to sand off the Sharpe red on the port side and totally reline out the hull. Repaint with the bulworks red paint and go from there.
Fourth Lesson:
A model has two sides to the hull. The first side you work on and finish is the practice side. You then take the lessons you learned and the skills you have developed with you to the other side. This side of the hull will come out great. This is the side which will be displayed. The practice side will wind up against the wall never to be seen again. This is the proof of the truism that Bob Hunt says not to go plank by plank on both sides. I can see it now. The reason is so simple. Not only are the sides not exact mirror images, you will make the same mistake twice.
The bow area is going to have some special requirements. Among them is a slight upward sweep of the stripes at the bow.  The 1/16” strips can’t be bent. They will be laminated out of 2 1/32” strips, one glued on top of another.  The anchor stock wales will have to custom fit because of the upward sweep. I will make a paper pattern to get the proper shape. They too will be laminated.
As I looked at the finished starboard hull, I can really see how my work improved as you go forward. Repetition is the ultimate skill builder. And, the Victory has a lot of repetition. Overall, I am quite pleased how this side came out. After a short time out to reorganize and clean up the shop, it’s off to the port side.
I am pleased to say the the black and white stripes are all done on width wise. In this last photo there appears to be some camera paralax toward the front of the ship. The stripes are even all the way down.
 
One another note. I am glad that I can accurately mill my own wood courtesy of Mr. Byrnes' fantastic machines. If I had to by strip lumber, this kit would cost a fortune to build.
 
Thanks for looking in. Comments and suggestions are always welcome.
Regards
 
 
 
 
Word 2010.lnk

Zoly,
I sure would like to give it a try. Let me know how to procede.
 
Thanks

Love the idea of using a stick to set the yards.
 
Regards

Hi Folks,
I'm looking to buy a copy of the AOS 44 Gun Frigate Constitution by Marquardt. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks

Back again,
The frame is now all glued up. Not too shabby. BH #2 slightly tilted forward. I'll move the slot for the sub-deck and that should take care of it.

Starboard side planking completed
 
The starboard hull planking is finished except for the bow area. There were lots of challenges in planking the Victory’s hull. The first challenge is that the optics of the sheer of the planking colliding with the straight, parallel lines of the stripes gets very confusing. Even with the hull lined out and light stripes colored, it takes a huge amount of concentration to get what you are trying to accomplish. Am I doing a sheer plank or a split plank for the stripe, or both?
Ebonizing the boxwood with India Ink to simulate the ebony worked better than I hoped. The India Ink and wipe on poly were put on the strips that I milled after the milling and before installation. It does pay to put a dab of the ink on the end of the cut plank before you glue it.
First lesson:
The sheer of the ship has to flatten out as you approach amidship. No matter how you try, the planking wants to angle to level rather than curve into the bend. Not to worry; it all works out in the end.
Second lesson:
My doing the 1/32” lip on  the gun port leaves a lot to be desired. They vary too much and most are too wide. This is due to variation of the between ports strips being not exactly even. Trying to shave them down to make the 3 or 4 planks once they are glued is messy and not very effective. I have a solution for the port side. I will edge glue these planks and then trim them using either the True Sander or the Byrnes disc sander to get the exact length. Should give me a nice straight edge and my sought after 1/32” lip.
Third lesson:
My use of the red Sharpie did not work well. It smeared when rubbed with the Wipe-on-Poly and looks terrible. I tried to redo the lips and inside of the port with bulworks red paint. This is another task that in next to impossible. I am going to have to live with this on the starboard side. I am going to sand off the Sharpe red on the port side and totally reline out the hull. Repaint with the bulworks red paint and go from there.
Fourth Lesson:
A model has two sides to the hull. The first side you work on and finish is the practice side. You then take the lessons you learned and the skills you have developed with you to the other side. This side of the hull will come out great. This is the side which will be displayed. The practice side will wind up against the wall never to be seen again. This is the proof of the truism that Bob Hunt says not to go plank by plank on both sides. I can see it now. The reason is so simple. Not only are the sides not exact mirror images, you will make the same mistake twice.
The bow area is going to have some special requirements. Among them is a slight upward sweep of the stripes at the bow.  The 1/16” strips can’t be bent. They will be laminated out of 2 1/32” strips, one glued on top of another.  The anchor stock wales will have to custom fit because of the upward sweep. I will make a paper pattern to get the proper shape. They too will be laminated.
As I looked at the finished starboard hull, I can really see how my work improved as you go forward. Repetition is the ultimate skill builder. And, the Victory has a lot of repetition. Overall, I am quite pleased how this side came out. After a short time out to reorganize and clean up the shop, it’s off to the port side.
I am pleased to say the the black and white stripes are all done on width wise. In this last photo there appears to be some camera paralax toward the front of the ship. The stripes are even all the way down.
 
One another note. I am glad that I can accurately mill my own wood courtesy of Mr. Byrnes' fantastic machines. If I had to by strip lumber, this kit would cost a fortune to build.
 
Thanks for looking in. Comments and suggestions are always welcome.
Regards
 
 
 
 
Word 2010.lnk

On a previous post, you questioned why manufacturers left out so many things on the model and, if you want them, you have to fabricate them. First, Second and Third are; cost, cost and scale and difficulty. They do not want to overburden the lower level modeler. They can list the kit as intermediate rather than advanced. This, of course widens the potential market.
 
 
Regards

Kerith
These look fantastic.
If I ever saw a part that just begged to get knocked off or repeatedly bent, hammock cranes win by a long shot. I'm not up to this part yet, but I think I am probably going to delay hammock cranes until all of the interior deck and rigging work are complete.
 
Regards

You have raised the bar to a place to which I can only aspire. You log is a tremendous resource on which I will surely rely upon as I go down this journey even though I am building the Panart 738 kit.
 
Regards

Love the idea of using a stick to set the yards.
 
Regards

A beautiful job!!

A beautiful job!!

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

Oh yeah, on the friezes. Very classy.
 

7/1
On to Chapter 6. The honeymoon is over. This is as serious modeling as you can get- it’s just short of scratch building. I read it, read it again, and read it again, and, still I did things wrong. It sometimes seems like this is one big senior moment.
 
I installed the first partial anchor stock piece in the second row of anchor stock upside down and lost the sheer of the planks. I didn’t show up until much later. The optics of the sheer of the plank verses the straight run of the stripes gets very confusing to the eye. You really have to focus on one and when you get that in your head you can then look at the other and compare. I had to rip out a good portion of the stern planking to fix this. And, there is still some sag at the stern. I’m going to have to live with this.
 
The black stripe is 12mm in width and it carries all the way through. The boxwood is 9/16ths and also carries through all the way through. I consider this a moral victory (no pun intended). I got one thing correct. There appears to be a little too much sheer aft of the entry way. I don’t know why because the gallery drawing is spot on. I’ll live with this also. It looks like there is going to a lot of “live withs” on the starboard side. It’s only going to be important at the stem where the stripes and wales join and at the stern to make sure the stern galleries align properly.
 
I have another reason besides the one that Bob gave for working on one side the hull at a time. You learn from your mistakes. And, doing the second side after practicing on the first side will be a huge benefit. Of course, the first side goes against the wall. Keeping notes of the potential pitfalls will be a help when I turn around to the port side.
 
On the middle gun deck, between the 2nd and 3rd gun port from the stern, there is piece of black anchor stock that will be carved out and replaced with boxwood to get rid of the black hump.

 
I found that working at eye level really helps. That little box is perfect. I use an Ex-acto fine tooth saw the start the cuts for the gun port openings and then pair back to this cut from the middle with the work piece on the little box. I found that this eliminates breaking the part at the narrow place when you do this freehand. I place the work piece of the left edge (I'm left handed) with the mark up against the edge. I hold the piece close to the edge pressing down tightly. The box is up against the front of the bench turned so the saw is clear of the bench. I draw the saw DOWN to make the cut only as deep as the frame needs to be. Drawing down uses gravity to move the saw, while pushing up will break the piece.
 
One resolution is to improve my cutting of the filler pieces between the gun ports. I have modified my technique. Now, I cut all the pieces for the gap, gang them, then sand them to length using the Byrnes disc sander. This keeps them square, and, with a little care, just sneak up of the correct length. This gives a very nice straight line.


 

 

Oh yeah, on the friezes. Very classy.
 

Oh yeah, on the friezes. Very classy.
 

Ditto Sjors

Oh yeah, on the friezes. Very classy.