ca.shipwright
-
Posts
483 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship
Literally; "out of the mouth of babes."
Beautiful work all the way through. Your deck planking is one of the neatest and crispest I have seen.
Regards
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Dan Vadas in Thickness sander
I have been using Jim's sander for about 12 years or so. Here are some observations:
- Each mark on the adjustment wheel is .002 in. Use a micrometer and measure more than one place on the strip.
- I use one course and one fine grit on the sanding drum. Sand close to finished thickness with the course paper and sneak up on finished thickness with the fine paper. (I just got the 6 inch hold down bar from Jim and use that with 6 inch paper to mill billets wider than 3 inches.)
- +/- .005 in is good enough for almost all applications. You won't see the difference and you will save a lot of wood.
- Turn the strip over with each pass. This will help to relieve internal stresses and prevent bowing.
- Be careful with boxwood. It's edge will cut you like a razor blade if it slides through your fingers. Don't ask.
- Save all your errors. You will always need a thinner piece somewhere down the line. This goes for the saw as well. You will always need a narrower piece somewhere down the line.
- Try and estimate how much of each size you will need and mill it all (+ 10%) in one set-up. Makes for good consistency.
- USE A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM OR WEAR A RESPIRATOR. Wood dust can be very toxic.
- Mill ebony outside. You will never get ebony dust out of you shop or off the machine and ebony is toxic.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from thibaultron in Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship
Literally; "out of the mouth of babes."
Beautiful work all the way through. Your deck planking is one of the neatest and crispest I have seen.
Regards
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from PeteB in Thickness sander
I have been using Jim's sander for about 12 years or so. Here are some observations:
- Each mark on the adjustment wheel is .002 in. Use a micrometer and measure more than one place on the strip.
- I use one course and one fine grit on the sanding drum. Sand close to finished thickness with the course paper and sneak up on finished thickness with the fine paper. (I just got the 6 inch hold down bar from Jim and use that with 6 inch paper to mill billets wider than 3 inches.)
- +/- .005 in is good enough for almost all applications. You won't see the difference and you will save a lot of wood.
- Turn the strip over with each pass. This will help to relieve internal stresses and prevent bowing.
- Be careful with boxwood. It's edge will cut you like a razor blade if it slides through your fingers. Don't ask.
- Save all your errors. You will always need a thinner piece somewhere down the line. This goes for the saw as well. You will always need a narrower piece somewhere down the line.
- Try and estimate how much of each size you will need and mill it all (+ 10%) in one set-up. Makes for good consistency.
- USE A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM OR WEAR A RESPIRATOR. Wood dust can be very toxic.
- Mill ebony outside. You will never get ebony dust out of you shop or off the machine and ebony is toxic.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Canute in Thickness sander
I have been using Jim's sander for about 12 years or so. Here are some observations:
- Each mark on the adjustment wheel is .002 in. Use a micrometer and measure more than one place on the strip.
- I use one course and one fine grit on the sanding drum. Sand close to finished thickness with the course paper and sneak up on finished thickness with the fine paper. (I just got the 6 inch hold down bar from Jim and use that with 6 inch paper to mill billets wider than 3 inches.)
- +/- .005 in is good enough for almost all applications. You won't see the difference and you will save a lot of wood.
- Turn the strip over with each pass. This will help to relieve internal stresses and prevent bowing.
- Be careful with boxwood. It's edge will cut you like a razor blade if it slides through your fingers. Don't ask.
- Save all your errors. You will always need a thinner piece somewhere down the line. This goes for the saw as well. You will always need a narrower piece somewhere down the line.
- Try and estimate how much of each size you will need and mill it all (+ 10%) in one set-up. Makes for good consistency.
- USE A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM OR WEAR A RESPIRATOR. Wood dust can be very toxic.
- Mill ebony outside. You will never get ebony dust out of you shop or off the machine and ebony is toxic.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Overworked724 in HMS Victory by ca.shipwright - Panart Art 738 - 1:78
one more. reposted
Screwed up with the photos
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from jud in Finding the waterline
R F,
There are many ways to do this. But the key is to have a reference point.
1. If there is a base line that is horizontal below the keel and parallel to the water line, all you need to do is measure the distance between them at several stations. Transfer these measurements from the base line to the water line on the hull and connect the dots to give you the water line.
2. If there is no base line, it gets a little more complicated. Place the aft end of the keel on the building board. Raise and block the fore end of the keel until the distance from the waterline to the keel is equal to the distance shown on the plans at any particular station towards the bow.
This will give you the forward reference point for the horizontal waterline and the proper amount of drag on the hull.
3. In either 1 or 2, it is imperative that you make sure that the hull is centered, not tilted port or starboard. Laying a level across the bulkworks and keeping the bubble centered should get this done. This will give you the same waterline port and starboard.
It all sounds more complicated than it is.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
I ran up on this while I was perusing the net and thought you might be interested. I was particularly struck by the vibrancy of the French Blue as well as the rest of the ship.
http://www.stephensandkenau.com/ship/le-soleil-royal/
Regards
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in Finding the waterline
R F,
There are many ways to do this. But the key is to have a reference point.
1. If there is a base line that is horizontal below the keel and parallel to the water line, all you need to do is measure the distance between them at several stations. Transfer these measurements from the base line to the water line on the hull and connect the dots to give you the water line.
2. If there is no base line, it gets a little more complicated. Place the aft end of the keel on the building board. Raise and block the fore end of the keel until the distance from the waterline to the keel is equal to the distance shown on the plans at any particular station towards the bow.
This will give you the forward reference point for the horizontal waterline and the proper amount of drag on the hull.
3. In either 1 or 2, it is imperative that you make sure that the hull is centered, not tilted port or starboard. Laying a level across the bulkworks and keeping the bubble centered should get this done. This will give you the same waterline port and starboard.
It all sounds more complicated than it is.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
The drawing on the right is the correct representation. Using this, you will not have to veneer the keel. Remember the garboard strake lies flat on the center keel over the dead wood in front of the rudder post. As you go forward this plank twists to lie flat against the hull and runs flat all the way to the bow. Since you have not cut the rabbet, you can bevel the lower edge of the garboard strake so that it will "tuck" into the keel. Like so end view
k | |
e | |
e | / Outside of hull
l | /
__ l /
| |
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Ryland Craze in US Brig Syren by fnkershner - Model Shipways - 1:64
With regards to sanding. I have found that using the Black and Decker Mouse with very fine sand paper does a very good job with low risk of over-sanding. Gentle pressure is the key. It has a pointed nose for tight spaces. For wider mostly flat or gently curved areas. I use a 1/4 sheet sander, again with very fine grit paper.
I find the Dremel way too aggressive for this type of sanding.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
Great job on the planking. I know from experience on my Vicki that scale length planking adds several months to this tedious task. You have extraordinary patience. Drive on!
Regards
IMO - the French Blue looks much more "royal" than the Ultramarine Blue. A little dulling with a day of gray or black should take the glare off.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Heronguy in US Brig Syren by fnkershner - Model Shipways - 1:64
With regards to sanding. I have found that using the Black and Decker Mouse with very fine sand paper does a very good job with low risk of over-sanding. Gentle pressure is the key. It has a pointed nose for tight spaces. For wider mostly flat or gently curved areas. I use a 1/4 sheet sander, again with very fine grit paper.
I find the Dremel way too aggressive for this type of sanding.
Hope this helps
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
Great job on the planking. It looks like the wood that was supplied is of superior quality. This makes for a beautiful hull in the natural state. Can't wait to see how your SR turns out.
Regards
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
J P
Nicely done. And, you will finish before you know it. A single mast ship model does have it benefits.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from BLACK VIKING in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
Great job on the planking. I know from experience on my Vicki that scale length planking adds several months to this tedious task. You have extraordinary patience. Drive on!
Regards
IMO - the French Blue looks much more "royal" than the Ultramarine Blue. A little dulling with a day of gray or black should take the glare off.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from md1400cs in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
Great job on the planking. I know from experience on my Vicki that scale length planking adds several months to this tedious task. You have extraordinary patience. Drive on!
Regards
IMO - the French Blue looks much more "royal" than the Ultramarine Blue. A little dulling with a day of gray or black should take the glare off.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from EJ_L in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
Great job on the planking. I know from experience on my Vicki that scale length planking adds several months to this tedious task. You have extraordinary patience. Drive on!
Regards
IMO - the French Blue looks much more "royal" than the Ultramarine Blue. A little dulling with a day of gray or black should take the glare off.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Soleil Royal by EJ_L - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:77 - 1669 Version
E J
Great job on the planking. I know from experience on my Vicki that scale length planking adds several months to this tedious task. You have extraordinary patience. Drive on!
Regards
IMO - the French Blue looks much more "royal" than the Ultramarine Blue. A little dulling with a day of gray or black should take the glare off.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from CaptainSteve in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8
Beautifully done.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from BenD in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8
Beautifully done.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8
Beautifully done.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Canute in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8
Beautifully done.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from xken in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8
Beautifully done.
-
ca.shipwright got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Darrell,
Your Niagara's deck and rigging is as busy as it can get. Your work is superb. You have raised the bar very high. I only hope that my eyes and fingers will be up to the task of rigging my Endeavour and Victory when the time comes.
Regards
Our Emblem ®
