sonicmcdude

Sinan,
 
I have gotten much happier about this Craftsman 10" 3 wheel bandsaw since I found out why the band kept jumping off at practically every use.  I found out that the tires had stretched out a bit, and one was fairly loose.  After swapping it to a carrier wheel, and contact cementing all the tires in their tracks, It seems to be a model machine.  I can rip off 3" planks with a rip fence added, and cut strips off of the planks to the size I need.  I am not working in micro size strips, so it is a big help.  I just sand the stuff with a block and strip it.  I had once considered junking it until I discovered how loose the tire was.  Centrifugal force was raising up the edges and letting it move in the groove. Once it slipped up on the retainer ridge, the band would jump off the wheel.  It is dreadfully difficult to get back on all 3 wheels at the same time.  Thankfully I seldom have to do that any more.  It has become my favorite tool since then, and it runs the quietest of any of my other tools.  I just about do all my cutting with it now. 
 
Walt Biles

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 181– Deadeyes and Chains
 
I will admit that making deadeye chains is one of my least favorite tasks, so it is well that it comes near the end of the project when my desire to get finished overcomes my reluctance to working on these.  I find it difficult to exactly measure the required lengths of the chains and lack the patience to make all the easily deformed pieces straight.  However, having said that, the task must be faced.  There are a lot of steps to the process I use.  I will merely summarize.
 
Turning the deadeyes is the easy part.  I use a shaped cutter as shown in the first picture.
 

 
After these are polished in the lathe and parted off, the holes are drilled with the aid of the indexing head in the mill,  The next picture shows a finished deadeye fitted with its binding,
 

 
For the large deadeyes the bindings and chains were made from 20-gauge copper wire.  When stretched this is just slightly (⅛”) larger than specified.   Close enough, when considering that wire sizes are limited.
 
Once the correct binding size is found by trial and error, the assembly shown above is used to help determine the length of the two chain loops that connect to the bolt at the top of the preventer plate.  This measurement is taken as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next step is to find two links to fit this measurement.  I do this by selecting two from a group made by wrapping wire around a tapered plate then parting off a number of loops of increasing size.  The next picture shows the tapered plate being wrapped with pre-stretched wire.
 

 
The next picture shows three stages in making a soldered loop.
 

 
The lower loop in the picture is as-cut.  The middle one has had its end curved to close the gap for silver-soldering. 
The loop at the top has had a small amount of copper-phosphorus solder paste applied and is ready for the heat.
 
After soldering, the toe loop is crimped around a wire at the bottom end and soldered at the bottom.  The middle loop is then fitted between this and a binding loop and soldered.  The deadeye is then fit into he binding and shaped around the deadeye.  The next picture shows a set of these hanging from pins in their final locations.
 

 
After assembly the chains are test fitted at the measured location.  Since the model will not be rigged they need to be taut for appearance purposes.  If the chain does not fit in the measured location, I try it at other places until a nice fit is found.  When the set is complete the chains are polished up, straightened and blackened.  They are then installed.  The next picture shows the completed chains on the fore channel.
 

 
Ed

I was able to get the fenders made and installed. With the moldings in place that would
require cutting notches into the fenders and getting them to fit the curve of the hull too.
Hmmm seemed a little difficult to me. Then I remembered Chuck (thanks again!) had
us cut the molding away and just slide the fenders in place. Then I just had to sand
them to fit to the hulls contour.
 

 

 
Fit was good and it took a fraction of the time and no waste, oh ok I messed one up
and threw it in the scrap heap, but to me that is no waste!  
 
 

 
 

Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen. 
 
Mario,
It's been in the 80's until Friday.. it's now 106o F here. 
 
Well, it's been a week of hell at work with long days and seemingly short nights and this coming week isn't promising to get any better.  But I did manage to finally get the first strake laid and after a bit of tweaking, I'm happy.   I flipped the photo to see it "right side up".  This is the first strake above the wales.  I'm planking upward... or downward....or fiddlesticks...towards the chain wale as this is lower in profile than the wales and I can sand them without damaging the wales. 
 
The wale line goes pretty much straight back from the bow and about 2/3rds of the way, it starts sweeping upward.  The width is pretty consistant from 6 planks wide at the stern, through the mid-ships to about 1/3rd of the way from the bow then ends up a the bow 6-1/2 planks wide.  I'll get creative with some wider wood at the bow area or slip in a stealer... maybe a half-checked stealer... ???
 

Thanks Ben. Sorry, I must have missed your post.
 
Framing for the gun deck is now done except for cutting and fitting the hanging knees and making and fitting the pillars. None of the framing has been given any finish at this point. The gun deck framing, like the lower deck framing, was built entirely off the model. I am really happy with the method. The photos show the framing at various stages of completion. The last is with the framing temporarily in place on the model. 
 
I have now decided that I will do enough deck planking to allow for placement of guns on both sides. The waterways and deck planking will be done after the framing with knees and pillars is installed.
 
Bob

Prior to doing any planking of the lower deck, I planked the interior of the hull up through the gun deck clamps, including treenailing. This planking was all done in boxwood. I then did the waterway in boxwood and a fairly small section of the lower deck planking in holly. This planking was also treenailed. After the planking was done, I finished the hull and deck planking and the top of of the unplanked deck framing with Wipe-on Poly. I'm not sure whether i didn't do more deck planking because I was lazy or because I liked the look of the framing -- probably some of each.
 
Now it's on up to the gun deck.
 
Bob

It's been awhile since my last post, but I have been doing a couple of changes on my build. I decided that since this is my first and experimental build, I would change the look a bit. So, the following pictures will explain themselves. I'm learning a lot about how not to do things and will carry those over to my next build. This build is not very good in my opinion, and I hope to do a lot better on the next one. But hey, I'm learning as I go, and that's one of the main things.
 
Have the hanging knees installed. They are all different sizes etc. Bad job, but I guess they look okay for this deck.
 

 

 
Sanded the planking again and decided to stain some planks. I like the look but oh man what a job that was. Lesson learned - stain the wood first and use the proper wood before you install it.
 

 
Use the proper wood next time. <<<< DO NOT TRY TO STAIN AFTERWARDS>>>>
 

 
I'm learning that if I have the proper tools in the first place, I would have had a way better build. The joints would have been better and the build could have been quicker. 
Oh well, live and learn. 
 

Sorry to disagree with you Ron.
 
I do like the pics. The model has somehow "spirit". There is not need allways to be so neat and clean. When you see pictures of the old ships like in the book of Lambert "The last sailing fleet" (Conway, I think) all the interiors look rusty with hundreds of lays of paint, different sizes of wood, kind of dirty... I like the contrast of the taint woods and the unpainted on your Triton. Looks real.
 
Best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.
 
P.S. http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/0851775918  (I got mine for 20€ in a book shop at Madrid., Did not realize the prize of if till now!!! Amazing...)

Ahoy Mates
 
Well I have finally climbed out of the hole I dug for myself, or I should say drilled for myself.
 
First off,  I did not intend to do this.
 
Next I will be preceding with phase two of my repair, Painting the hull "lol'". Worry not, I have a plan.
 
It started with adding a few tree nails. I was not happy with the result so I added a few more. Then a lot more. After I finished I was still was not happy with the way it looked. At that point I made the decision to fall back and paint the hull; but only after I repeated what took over 30 hours to do. I still had the other side.
 
Was this a mistake, I would go with it was a whopper.
 
Ironically I have high hopes regarding how she will turn out in the end.  There are over 3000 treenails (I estimate it at 3400) and I plan to do a light coat which I hope will allow the treenails to have some effect on the finish. We shall see. Right now I am telling myself that what I have planned will be something that I will be very happy with.
 
Truthfully,  I am just happy to have gotten through this.Thank you MSW, for providing me with the much needed inspiration. I read a lot of logs during this period.
 
 I am now looking forward to doing something a little less repetitive, its a shame I couldn't start the ratlines
 
Thanks for stopping by

I have been following this topic with interest and it reminded me of some old pictures I kept on my PC from the MSW 0.1.
I know this is slightly off topic but thought it may be interesting for those interested in making cheapo profile mill bits.
These were from the build log of the Panteleymon by Russian master builder Alex Baranov. It is a pictorial tutorial that may come in useful to some:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hello:
 
Hear is some pic of the hull and what has been done so far.  The quick work hasn't been sanded yet and I need to do a light sanding all over before applying some wipe on polly.  It should lighten up the cheery in the places I would like a little liter. The gaps aren't as big as they look and should fill in well with a little sanding and glue.  I'm trying to build the lights around the stern.  Please what is that called that part of the grate cabin or is it just part of the grate cabin.  I have made many mistakes in this build but that's OK. Learning  I was always trying to jump ahead. As you can see at the stern deck a big goof but it will be covered. There are numerous others.  The whales are died with  fiebing's leather dye and it looks good but when applied to the lights I found that it didn't sink into the wood very well mostly stayed on top and when gluing parts to it they just glued to the dye and not to the wood so I think I will be going to ebony stain of some kind maybe min wax. 

Wow.. That is really good start Elmir.. I will be here to follow you. keep the pictures coming and thank you for sharing!

Hello
 
 Well I have had tough time with the lights but finely got what I wanted. The first pic shows some of the ones I thought I was going to use. The first is too crooked second is too small and the third is just right. 
 
I'll have to see if I can find some old pic of my build and post them. Don't think I saved any though.
 
I do have a question though.  I am working on the Taffarel and would like to know what the measurements are if the rail that sit on top of it, are they. (2 1/2" X 4 1/2") ? this to me seems small. I have looked in TFFM, Construction of English War Ship and in the Triton prints couldn't find it in the or was I not looking in the right place. 
 
Hear is some of my trial and errors of the lights.

Thanks, Grant. It's worked out better than I expected.
 
The lower deck framing is now complete and installed. I added the fourth beam and the beam arms, as well as their carlings and ledges. The bottom and sides of the assembly were finished with Wipe-on Poly. The top will be given the finish after a portion has been planked. I then installed the entire assembly permanently. Next, the hanging knees were cut from boxwood sheet, fitted, finished with Wipe-on Poly and installed. Lastly, the pillars were cut from boxwood strip, their corners chamfered, finished with Wipe-on Poly and then installed.
 
The next steps will be to plank a portion of the lower deck and to plank the interior from the lower deck to the gun deck clamps.
 
Bob

Thanks, Daniel. I'm using the Byrnes draw plate. It's an excellent tool.
 
I've been having computer problems, apparently the result of a storm, which have kept me from posting. Hopefully, they are resolved now.
 
During this time, and while waiting for wood from Hobbymill, I completed tree nailing of the second side of the lower hull. I also applied a final finish with Wipe On Poly to the lower interior planking, in preparation for doing the lower deck framing. With the new wood having arrived, I've started on that framing.
 
Bob

The scuttles in the fore deck are all fitted with covers.  There are sills that run fore and aft on the carlings that form the scuttle framing.  They can be seen in the first picture.  The cover rests on top of them.  These covers could either be fit to lift out (which is what I modeled) or hinged.  I deliberately made the covers slightly undersized so that they would stand out from the deck planking.The ring bolts are used to pull the covers and are 3" internal diameter.  They are made from blackened 24 g brass wire.They measure out correctly but look oversized to my eye.  All of the eyes are oriented fore and aft.  
 

 

The rest of the lower deck planking has been installed.  I have removed the bit pins to prevent them from getting damaged.  According to TFFM, joggled planks were not commonly used in this time period.  David's suggested layout shows them, however, so I used them in four strakes at the bow.  I guess I just like the way they look.  The last three strakes aft and the last two strakes fore are dropped to prevent the end of the plank from being too narrow.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I have not decided what I am going to do for fastenings.  Deck nails were used to fasten the planks to the beams.  They were countersunk so wood plugs could be inserted above them.  I have tried unsuccessfully to show these plugs with a hypodermic needle.  To remain in scale, a 25 gauge needle is required.  I found that this bent after only a few uses.  Seven-eighths inch treenails and doualls were used at the ledges and butts respectively.  At this point I am leaning towards installing the treenails and doualls and skipping the plugs, as they would barely be seen anyway.

Ha ha! A miniature me for displaying with my progress pictures! Downright silly but still funny. Perhaps I have too much time on my hands.........
 
 
 
 

Its been a couple of weeks since the last post. All the family has recovered and I managed to catch up on few jobs around home . Nothing more on the build. I did manage to get a couple of new tools made in the few minutes in the shed. Decided I didnt need to pay a heap of money for a small square and my others (all 5) are too big to be of any use on the Triton. So a small piece of Steel, spot of epoxy glue, and scrap of timber later I have a minature square.
 

 

Thank you Pete, both Grants, David, Matrim, Ben, Paddy and 42 Rocker!
 
Bob, Funny you say that. I've always looked to you for insperation to do my best. Thanks!
 
Ok I've spent a whle drilling hole for the treenails.
 

 
Gonna draw the treenails tonight and start plugging those holes!
 

Ok here is my attempt to duplicate Chuck’s work, again. Not as good as his but I’m satisfied.
 

 
When I planked around the sills I thought I was going to be around ½ a plank wide. But once I
put the plank in place finished trimmed it and sanded it flush you see I only have about a
¼ plank width. So with that I attempted to do the tabbed approach Ben mentioned and Chuck
demonstrated on the Winnie.
 
I started with cutting a plank the width of a regular plank plus the width of the tab to cover the
lintel. I then marked the entire plank at the regular plank width, then marked the widest point
of the of the tab and the narrowest point so I would know what angle to cut. I then slowley
removed the excess wood and kept testing it until I was satisfied with the finished piece.
 
 
 

 

 

 
Then it was glued in placed.
 

 
Next I'll treenail both sides.

Hi all and thanks for the kinds words.
 
I’ve been trying to find a bit of time here and there between summer stuff,
grandkids and ugh….work.
 
I started to work on the gun ports. I wanted to keep working with wood instead
of paint but I also wanted the bulwarks and ports to be red. So with that in mind
I framed in the gun ports with red heart and will plank the inboard with red heart
and outboard with boxwood.
 
Here you can see the start of the framing.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for following along!

Since my last post I have been working my way along the lower deck.
 
Boy, I should have listened to Russ and cut all of the notches before mounting the beams. Well, I didn't and I tell you I had so much trouble cutting the notches for the carlings and ledges that I will never do it again that way. I had the beams in place and glued in, and I cut each notch with an Exacto knife. The notches had very bad gaps so I filled them in with my Triton sawdust and glue combination. Looks bad.
 
Although I am a little embarrassed about the sloppiness of my notches and my broken knees, I will post these pictures in order to show future model ship builders, the way not to do it. I must keep telling myself that this is my first build and that I am no expert at all. This is just a learning process that I am going through at this stage. The next build will be better and the next one after that will be better. I am learning as I go and by posting my pictures of the faults that I have made with this build, will someday help others and will teach me of better ways to approach certain items of each build.
 
So anyway, here are some pictures. Please do point out the mistakes to me so that I will know better next time. Thanks
  

Thanks Robbyn, but I'm not really "thinking" of the actual details, just putting into practice what is in the TFFM books .
 
Transom Iron Knees
 
The corners of the transom are strengthened with Iron Knees. I made these in similar fashion to the other ones described earlier in my build log. They are "cast" (bent) to go under the half-beam. A Filler Piece has been fitted to take the place of a Lodging Knee :
 

 
Here are the aforementioned "half-beams" :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Aldo.
 
Completing Great Cabin
 
To complete the work in the Great Cabin the Lockers received two lids and a couple of fill-in pieces :
 

 
Next I fitted four planks to the Lower and Upper Inner Counters :
 

 
A Sill finished off the top of the planking, and Cover Timbers were fitted between the Lights over the framing :
 

 

 
  Danny