Krelis

Anton,
I see in your signature that you built the Friesland. How is that model? Accurate?
Also There is a Dutch member on MSW that built the Batavia from scratch. He and other people started a company producing only Dutch ships as kits. There is a lack of "accurate" Dutch ships and he is going to fill that void. He mentioned there is lots of interest in this. He has some nice kits going into production and priced competitively.
He mentioned the first one is the Dordrecht which was in the same convoy as the Batavia. There are others he is working on.
 
I do not know if you read any Dutch but for both of these ships (Batavia and De Zeven Provinciën) there are some very accurate books on each of them.
 
For the Batavia there is.

 
For the 7 Provinciën there is the Reconstructie vd Zeven Provinciën, G.C. Dik
This one is extremely detailed with lots of plans, CAD drawings, pictures and numerous measurements of many parts of the ship

 
Marc

I am sure by now everyone is sitting on edge of chair for first start up, perhaps make it a live event with the "Live stream" app, beer and crisps ready, see if it runs?

Thanks to all for the likes and comments
 
Today I mounted the waterpump with 4 00x90 hex bolts
 

 
The other milestone was to finally get the head mounted.
 

 
and made a spark plug wrench.
 

 

 

 
Michael

Amazed to learn that in Russia Hr. Ms. Java is even known! Will follow

Chuck,
Next build I must try your planking method. It looks ... astonishing

More pics

Today, I finished planking the Hull, did some light fairing and built the Cradle. Next will be to complete fairing the Hull. Here are the results

Not jet, Jan. In April everything explode with colors and smelts. I was born on asphalt, in Belgrade downtown, where I spent growing, learning, working first 30 years of my life. Then I got married, and as Admiral was born in this suburb of Belgrade ( 20 km from downtown) there we built our family house and move in 1993.year, and I'll never change this rural ambiance for any kind of any luxury apartment in down town. In house, flat has 120m2 living space, five rooms, and beside that attic 50 mm2, garage and heat room another 50m2, and one room in basement 20m2
and yard 700m2. Belgrade is relative small citty ( 2.000.000 inhabitants with all suburbs) and with car I need only 20-25 minutes of relaxing drive to reach downtown.
 

 
 
Our suburb, named Umka , layed on Sava river, has over 5.000 inhabitants, almost all in private family houses with 700-1000 m2 of yard, and atmosphere and feeling living there is something relay special. Only a few people live from agriculture and keep animals, almost everybody work somewhere (local factories, near town Obrenovac or in downtown). Urban village. Nothing can compare and replace quiet spring/summer evening after hard day sitting in backyard drinking glass of red wine, chating with Admiral and kids. Main road is 600m far away near river Sava, our house is on hill, and you can hear - nothing, except birds, cats, dogs etc etc. Church can not be heard because it is on another side of hill. Therapy for nerves. And if you enjoy in working in yard when you have time - joy of life. Add to this full equipped place with installations of gas, el. current, tv, iptv, net, many shops with everything you need daily, school, nursery for little kids, small medical center, post office, bank,w cinema, pubs and restaurants ... what more do you need?
 
 
 
 
Hey, George !
Considering how it look right now, I think there will not be re-do. Mess is more visual because I have to remove my nice black color on some places on bow part of hull to get better adhesive with glue, and it seems pretty ugly now. I am not afraid of re-do, I practiced re-do exercises and re-do skills almost all my building, and I am sure there will be a lot of re-do and boo-boo.
 
Spice of hobby
 
And a spice must flow!

Nice country side kind of a place Nenad, bet the air is full with the smell of peet, and every now and there is the clang of a distant church bell

Very nice time outside = a lot of garden home works arranged by Admiral



Look from my favorite resting and smoking place


First collateral ... my Zippo disappears somewhere in yard ...

From second smoking place, playing with camera panoramic view shots

Hello everyone
 
Thank you for all of your likes and for visiting „Stavangers“ shipyard - I am delighted whenever the "bell is heard“!
 
... So, what's going on in Colin Archer’s workshop?
 
The hull as far is finished in its raw version. It lacks even the fine finish and the plasterwork and final attachement of the keel.
 


 
 
Also the rudder blade achieved his raw state. Regarding RC technical reasons, the rudder blade is expanded in its area.
 



 
 
Regarding the deck topic, I can tell you about the working status so far:
 
Characteristic for all Colin Archer RS-sailors is the closed and heavily double-curved (concave-convex) hyperbolic shape of the deck. Thus shipped seas can be fast discharged.
 


 
 
The original is made of pine planks of dimension 10/5cm. By aging, sun exposure, and dozens of surface treatments (probably pine-tar-oil), the look is anthracite-black.
 


 
 
I've decided to forego a false deck. The problem is, that I can't manufacture a hyperbolic-shaped plane as a homogeneous element in any manner with reasonable effort - unless the false deck again would have joints, which were again to close and so on ...
 
As all the tests with the deck dummies has showed, a simple and clean solution for this task is already foreseeable - in form of the elastomeric Sika-joints. The best thing is, that this is a way to solve everything in one single layer: Joint pattern, deformation, elastic connection, water resistance, ...
 
Further I will plank the deck with pine/larch. Slow-growth pine/larch has a very fine and narrow drawing of annual rings - the scale effect will benefiting from this circumstance (see also Matija’s log on Pasara, page 3, no.32).
 
I'll treat the deck in multiple layers with coloured pine oil. The appearance of the dummy is not yet there where it should be ... - but it goes in the right direction.   
 

 
 
Best regards!
Mike

Hi Mike,
Incidentally I saw this photo. I think, it can be pleasant to you too.
 

 
And links with like boat - https://www.facebook.com/sailshipataraxia/info?tab=page_info
 
Best Regards!
Igor.

Hello everybody
 
Thank you for visiting this workshop and all you encouragement with your likes!   
 
@John, @Patrick, @Dimitris
Many thanks, I really appreciate your assistance!   
 
Currently, I'm heavy busy with the manufacturing processes for the deck. I'm on the way to prepare various dummies for these. So I wanted to try different things: The choice of wood and the whole appearance with color, the producing of the caulk joints, but also the functionality such as water resistance and so on.
 
To do this, first of all I need to modify my old Proxxon table saw, so that I can produce identical planks.





 
Further on, the pending decisions concerning the caulk joints is one of the most important question I have to answer. So I asked myself:
Why not just do like the originals? ...
 
Sikaflex-290i DC
Is a one-component sealant based on polyurethane and designed specifically for application on Rod deck joints.
 
Sikaflex-291i
Is a strong adhesive 1-component polyurethane sealant, designed specifically for all marine applications.
 
... My choice much on the Sikaflex 291i, because it seems to me, as a strong adhesive elastomer, very suitable for model application (although, it is not recommended as such for rod joints in full scale).


 
I apply the sealant with a spatula. Here I recommend you a good processing in the longitudinal direction of the joints. After drying, the surplus material gets scraped and sanded off.

 
I'm thrilled by the result! - it looks quite fine and is further on to develop ...


 
Best regards!
Mike

Thanks for all the fine comments, the smaller these parts get the more complex it seems to be to make them.
I had to come down to the library, because our home internet has crashed due to a problem at the tower that feeds our broardband. It is fun to work on such a fast system.
 
After drilling and tapping the second set of holes I removed the plate to open up the circular one to complete the installation of the new screws the smaller heads do look better even so they are still really a little on the large size scalewise. The top larger set will be replaced.
 

 
the plate was clamped in the vice to cut off the extra length of the screws... more bits to add to the growing scrap box that has been generated by this build.
 

 
Overall shot of the plates and plugs
 

 
If I had some 000x120 screws and the taps and dies then I would be able to make them a little smaller. Oh well.
 
For a change of pace I started to make the water pump cam parts, I machined some 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel into a .100" disc with a drilled 1/4 inch hole, the reason I just drilled it was to see if by drilling it straight with the 1/4 if it would drill just slightly larger by about a thou or two, and it did which caused it to be a nice slide fit over the .25" diameter cam on the gear.
 
I turned up a couple of sleeves from some drill rod and hardened them as filing guides for the excentric.
 

 

 
Step one is complete, next I need to silver solder the arm link to connect to th piston.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 

Here is a few shots of the first one, 

Thanks for the pics Anton and the history.  Yes, my father also received the Willems Order, personally given to my mother by Queen Juliana.  She managed to tell the Queen "this doesn't bring my husband back."  Yeah, there was some bitterness but a short time later Queen Juliana personally bailed us out of a difficult situation.
 
Cheers,
 
 

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

Greetings, kindly sir, and welcome aboard!  The quest you are embarking upon may take you down some very interesting paths, with many side journeys possible!  The information you seek is, to varying degrees, out there, but may not be always in an obvious place!  Before I offer a few introductory readings, let me offer some quick tips for your search.
 
Google Books can be a great tool when used wisely.  Many texts from the 16th century onward can be found by searching the title, author or combinations thereof. Archive.org and Hathitrust.org are also amazing repositories. Mariner's Mirror (http://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rmir20/current#.VQn4sOFQDcQ ), Journal for Maritime Research (http://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rmar20/current#.VQn45uFQDcQ )  and American Neptune (only a few issues available on-line at http://phillipslibrarycollections.pem.org/cdm/landingpage/collection/p15928coll3 ), among other journals, can lead you to more resources. Maritime Archeology journals are extremely valuable for insights into the construction and materials of older vessels. Check out the collection of Theses at schools such as Texas A&M http://nautarch.tamu.edu/Also see the  Nautical Archaeology Reading List at http://nauticalarch.org/ina_quarterly/introduction Academia.edu has an abundance of articles on related topics.  Membership is free. Some recommendations for you:
 
Ferreiro, L., 2007: Ships and science the birth of naval architecture in the scientific revolution, 1600-1800. MIT Press, Cambridge, Mass., http://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&db=nlabk&AN=173439   Fincham, J., 1821: An Introductory Outline of the Practice of Ship-building, &c. &c. William Woodward, 348 pp. http://books.google.com/books?id=pKZWAAAAcAAJ   Barker, R., 1985: Fragments From The Pepysian Library. Revista da Universidade de Coimbra, XXXII, 161–178. http://home.clara.net/rabarker/Fragments83txt.htm   ——, 1988: “Many May Peruse Us”: Ribbands, Moulds and Dodels in the Dockyards. Revista da Universidade de Coimbra, XXXIV, 539–559. http://home.clara.net/rabarker/sagres87mmpu-txt.htm.  
Batchvarov, K. N., 2002: The framing of seventeenth-century men-of-war in England and other northern European countries /. Texas A & M University, http://nautarch.tamu.edu/anth/abstracts/batchvarov.html.   Bellamy, M., 1997: Danish naval administration and shipbuilding in the reign of Christian IV (1596-1648). University of Glasgow, 489 pp. http://theses.gla.ac.uk/1383/1/1997bellamyphd.pdf(Accessed March 2, 2015).   Falconer, W., 1784: An universal dictionary of the marine: or, A copious explanation of the technical terms and phrases employed in the construction, equipment, furniture, machinery, movements, and military operations of a ship. 420 pp. https://archive.org/details/universaldiction00falc.   Harpster, M., 2010: Designing the 11th-century-AD vessel from Serçe Limanı, Turkey. International Journal of Nautical Archaeology, 39, 44–55, doi:10.1111/j.1095-9270.2009.00227.x. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1095-9270.2009.00227.x/abstract(Accessed February 16, 2015).   Loewen, B., and M. Delhaye, 2006: Oak growing, hull design and framing style. The Cavalaire-sur-Mer wreck, c. 1479. Connected by the Sea. Proceedings of the Tenth ISBSA, Roskilde 2003, L. Blue, F. Hocker, and A. Englert, Eds., Oxbow, Oxford, 99–104 https://www.academia.edu/6921643/Oak_growing_hull_design_and_framing_style._The_Cavalaire-sur-Mer_wreck_c._1479(Accessed March 2, 2015).   Steel, D., 1805: The shipwright’s vade-mecum [by D. Steel]. 377 pp. http://archive.org/details/shipwrightsvade00steegoog(Accessed September 1, 2014).   Sutherland, W., 1711: The ship-builders assistant : or, some essays towards compleating the art of marine architecture. printed for Mount, Bell, and Smith, London, 165 p., [15] leaves of plates (some folded) : ill. ; 22 cm. pp. http://echo.mpiwg-berlin.mpg.de/MPIWG:12RWTM5U.   Sutherland, William, 1748: Marine Architecture: or, the Ship-Builder’s Assistant: containing directions for carrying on a ship, from the first laying of the keel, to her actual going to sea, etc. [With a folding plate.]. W. & J. Mount & T. Page, 106 pp.  https://books.google.com/books?id=57BWAAAAcAAJ   There are also many modern era books that contain portions of this information.  For example,   Goodwin, P., 1987: The construction and fitting of the English man of war, 1650-1850. Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, Md, 276 pp.  ISBN 0870210165   Lavery, B., 1983: The Ship of the Line: Development of the Battlefleet, 1650-1850, Volume I. Conway Maritime Press, London.  ISBN 9780851772523   ——, 1986: The Ship of the Line: Design, Construction and Fittings, Volume II. Conway Maritime Press, London, ISBN  9780851772875.   Pâris, E., 2013: “Selected Plates from Souvenirs de Marine” by James Hitchcock. J. Hitchcock, Ed. CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform, https://www.createspace.com/4276148?ref=1147694&utm_id=6026(Accessed March 15, 2015).   Yedlinsky, A., 2014: Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805. Sea Watch Books, 271 pp. ISBN 9780983753292   There are so many more.  If there is a more specific era or topic you would like soe guidance toward please feel free to let me know, and HAVE FUN!            

I always wondered about the compactness of these boats, now I know, its the consequence of the Scottisch licensing system. You have 10 metre and under and over 10 metre. Absolutely great model by the way, I keep getting back to these pictures.

Just finished planking the port side.  I added the stern post.   Now to treenail the port side and add the molding...   It feels good to have it all planked.  It will feel even better when the treenailing is done.   I was getting tired of seeing the hull without its stern post.  I think it really makes a difference at this point.   At least from the starboard side.
 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 92 – Main Deck Framing 3
 
Framing of the main deck continues from forward and aft.  Additional operational features are also being installed.  In the first picture the topsail sheet bits  and two round openings for the anchor chain chutes  are installed.  The samson post is being glued in place toward the bow.
 

 
This very large timber extends up above the forecastle deck.  It will support the lever arms for the anchor chain winch located on the main deck just below the forecastle break.  The levers were operated from the forecastle.
 
Working just one step behind the drafting sometimes causes problems.  The next picture shows the step for the main capstan, which I neglected to install when framing the middle deck.
 

 
The decking between the two hatches and the middle bay of framing had to be removed and reworked to include support carlings and the square step itself.
 
The next picture shows the extent of the main deck framing at that time – a few days ago.
 

 
The next picture is a different view.  The three rows of carling under the deck cabin can be clearly seen in this picture.  The cabin will extend some distance further aft than the beams installed here.
 
 

 
The next picture shows some additional progress on the aft part of the main deck.
 

 
The members that will support the capstan on the main deck have been installed including two large support carlings.  The design of these supports and the step is speculative.  It will soon be time to make the smaller forward water tank and install both iron tanks while there is still access.  The bilge suction pipes will also need to be installed soon.
 
The next picture was taken while I could still place a smaller camera on the middle deck.  The view is forward along the middle deck
 

 
In the foreground is the main hatch and the bilge pipe openings.  The dark areas along the waterways are shadows of the deck beams. 
 
The last picture is one of those scary close-ups taken through one of the view ports.
 

 
This was taken at F8 – the smallest aperture on the smaller camera - so the foreground is out of focus, but the detail of the knees on the middle deck framing can be clearly seen – also a scarph jint in the deck clamp.
 
Ed

for construction i use pear wood.

i start to build the orlop deck , 

adnd now the lower deck

Ok, so when last we looked I had finished planking the hull and had it sanded.
 
Well, it went downhill from there.  I did a terrible job of staining one side and not so hot on the other. 
 
The side below is "not so hot
 

 
The next side is terrible...  I was way to heavy handed with the stain (golden oak-minwax). and I did not handle it well.
 

 
So I decided to remove the stain by sanding... and sanding.... and sanding... well, you get the idea.  I was not sure how that would turn out so I only did the really bad side.
 
I started from the keel since that would be covered up anyway with copper
 

 
I thought I would sand of so much that I would create a hole.  But as Chuck has said, there is a surprising amount of depth to the wood and you can really sand it.
 
Next I sanded above the wales,
 

 

 
The good news is that I realize just how much rework the wood can take if necessary. Lesson learned.
 
Now my choice is to stain it again with the golden oak, or sand down the other side and go for a different finish.
 
I am leaning towards re-staining but with a lighter touch and more focus as  I am working. If that comes out decently I may just sand and refinish the other side also.  (Just that the thought of all the sanding makes my shudder....)
 
Richard T

More work on the port sills.  The sills require beveling in two dimensions.  The ends have to be mitered (sides) so they fit between the bulkhead uppers, but they need an additional bevel in vertical plane where the sill rises following the shear.  I use a Miter Sander.  It comes with three sanding blocks with angles from 0 to 8 degrees.  Here I'm putting a 4 degree bevel on one end of a sill.  The other side gets a similar bevel on the opposite edge so they are parallel.  They get inserted between the uppers following the new modified reference lines drawn on the bulkhead uppers.  You can see the grain on the boxwood, which is a big disappointment with the quality of wood I got from Lumberyard.  It won't matter in this spot, but where it's visible, I'm going to go to with Crown for my next buy.
Maury

Patrick, Druxey, Mark T, Germanus, Row, Jack, Igor, Carl, Bob, John, Gary, Mike, Dan, Denis, Ed, Mark.
 
Thank all so very much for the well wishes, it is indeed great that Judy is well enough to be home and she has even gone back to work at the Library, (it is a small rural one and Judy is the Librarian  Manager she was looking forward to getting back so much.
 
P.S. : the Most Honourable and Noble Swiss Watchmakers´ Society at Geneva would be pleased to send you their application form.
Germanus this made me smile, They are way way above my league, but as a kid I wanted to be a watchmaker..... it is a funny world we live in. When I was 15 I had 24 chiming clocks in my bedroom all sort of them, picked them up in junk shops in England, they would be hard to find these days, but in the late 50's early 60's they were a dime a dozen.
 
I am almost sure that if to fill in couple of drops of gasoline in this engine it will start working.
Igor, as soon as she is ready that is what will happen.
 
The cover plate for the cavity on the top of the head, took for ever to fit, but it had to be precise and snug before I could drill the holes.
 
After the blank was fitted I flipped the head upside down and clamped it in the milling machine on top of a sacrifice block of brass, I used brass so that the plate had something the same density so that the hole would not form a bur on the drill exit.
 
The set up included using a couple of the original integrated spark plugs as drill bushings to act as guides for pilot drilling the holes in the plate
 

 
After the .078 hole was drilled the bushing was removed in order to then drill out a clearance hole for the spark plug which is .136"
 

 

 
The head was then indexed over to line up the second hole this was done by trial and error, by raising and lowering the .078 drill until it slipped into the hole easily. I did ensure that the upside down bit ran true before doing the set up.
 

 
Then drilled out the second hole.
 

 
Then repeated the clearance hole for the plug.
 

 
I made a couple of large .031 brass washers to act as the small circular covers these will get mounted to the oval plate with four small 00x 90 round head screws.
 

 

 

 
It is great to get a bit more time in the shop, and I am spending more with Judy now that she is back on her feet.
 
Thanks for all the likes as well.
 
Michael