Krelis

After a lot of contemplation, I decided that I would start work on the Most current Volvo Ocean Race 2014-2015 Farr Yacht Designed Volvo 65. I am building her in a 1/4" = 1' - 0" Scale . I started researching this build while building the Volvo open 70 ( completed in the Gallery ) I started Cutting out frames and building jig while I waited for the Varnish to dry on The Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 ftr. I was hoping to have started this build sooner , However here we are , I have not decided at this point whether to build her static or let her free sail. I do have plans to build a larger boat that will be RC. Here are the drawings for the boat, wich I will be using for the graphics and colors

It does get a little wet up here, with the threat of a cyclone hitting the coral coast, luckily turned into swell and some rain.

Nenad, on msw there is a sound of silence with your blog on hold, but in that silence we are with you. All the best with wife, Jan

Nenad, on msw there is a sound of silence with your blog on hold, but in that silence we are with you. All the best with wife, Jan

Nenad, on msw there is a sound of silence with your blog on hold, but in that silence we are with you. All the best with wife, Jan

A few very hard days facing with totally disintegrated health and hospital system here ( eleven hours waiting in front of different doors, one whole night, and finally after 4 days of hell Admiral is in hospital waiting for biopsy. Princess is in downtown, Hothead returned to his study as his main duty. The greatest success in whole our life is - we made and raised strong children. Coming back from hospital I noticed that grass goes wild because I was occupied, and after fighting grass, wishing to save myself from "bad-end movies" I make in my head those days, now fully understanding new meaning of words "sound of silence" in empty home, I decided to finally make my windlass chains.

After several nervous attempts and broken ropes, it seems I hit it

Here is first 20cm of chain




And on this point, again aesthetic question arise.

On C-plans, as on Lou's pictures, chains are mounted on windlass, move to the back over winch and through pipe go down under deck



Same as on one old photo I found




But, after time Lou's pictures were made, it seems that chains are removed from windlass, and, again different shown in different periods photos, they are layed in different part of main deck







On younger photos it can be seen that pipes through which chains pass down are missing. I think that this pipes have to be nice detail on model

I do not know reason why they are moved - probably visitors often faltered

After short time facing with dilemma how and where to lay chains, I decided to follow C-plans and Lou's pictures

Hello friends,
 
construction end of the model.
Originally, the model was planed with a complete main mast
and complete rigging.
Massive objections and pressure through my admiralty and government
with regard to the enormous size of the display case required an
amendment to the plan.
 
Karl 
 
 
T e i l  59    /   Ende

Well, if as Dick says many the pictures are taken from ships out of water (or sitting in dock empty) this would be understandable - the artists simply got the position of the waterline wrong.
 
Looking at the picture immediately below the photo of the model seems to me to show a more likely position for the waterline. And other contemporary representations, though they do seem to be riding fairly high, show a more realistic waterline position.

The other thing is that perhaps many of the ships pictured were portrayed as the artist saw them, in harbour, empty except for ballast, waiting for a cargo. Carpaccio's St Ursula carracks certainly seem to be riding high enough in the water for this to be so, and probably several others.
 
Steven 

Thanks, Jan for the feedback. I do like this sort of constructive criticism. I cant claim to have got it right but it seems to me the people who built the Trombetta nave , a very large ship for its time, were less concerned by its speed through the water than with strengthening the hull so it didnt fall apart. There was a great variability in these "futtock riders" and they often go almost to the midpoint of the hull. I did make an attempt to taper them at their lower end. Maybe not enough, who knows?
This is the original illustration of the Trombetta nave which I have followed.



even the modern reconstruction of the Matthew shows these rather bulky futtock riders extending to the waterline ( or below it were the ship to heel at all
many of the contemporary illustrations seem to have been made either of a ship model or of a ship out of water. They seem to show much more of the hull than would be seen in a ship in the water.

If this ship was really afloat it would be sitting much lower and the external bracing thingies would be partly below water!
Cheers
Dick

Nice build .-)
 
Daniel

This post is dedicated to Yves. Since the day I started this build, I looked forward to fitting the clamps. So I can finally be done with accidentally knocking frames loose and having to re-jig and re-glue. 
 
The very short post: I fitted the clamps and, yes, this is momentous. The hull is now very rigid and my wife is free to kick it all she wants 
 

 
For the long version, please vide infra. Like so many things in ship modeling, the simplest results often require quite a bit of unseen labor. 
 
 

I'm sitting here looking at the model, and a major milestone has been reached: All frames mounted! I also mounted the model in the shipbuilding vice (Christmas give from my father) and it is fun to see something that looked sloppy while in progress look so clean and nice for a change!
 


 
The frames came out pretty well, mostly to dimension. In the photos above you can see that I put a proper length faux deck beam at frame #11, which highlights the fact that the ship is a few mm narrow in the middle. Better than having the ol' girl (or any girl! haha) be a bit wide in the waist (hahahahaha). Moving on... When I get to putting the clamps in, I'm going to make a full set of temporary deck beam "spreaders" to hold the hull to the proper shape for gluing on the clamps and also to make fairing a lot easier. 
 
 
A few other comments
-The plans call for pre-fairing the frames a bit, which I didn't do. 
-I also have not cut the bearding line/rabbit yet. I figured it would be more intuitive once the hull is faired. I'm going to build a little rabbit cutting tool, I think. Stay tuned. 
-At the stern, the notches for the frames are angled so I put little wedges in the bottom so the frames would sit properly and have a surface to be glued onto. 
 

 
-The framing jig was too low to be used for the last two frames, it hit into the rudder box area. So I used some 90 degree angle jigs to hold the last two pairs in place for gluing. Getting them in the right spot in 3-d space was tricky and basically came down to trial and error. Then removed for gluing, and again trying to get them just right before the glue set up was... not fun. If I had to do more than the two pairs this way, it would be worth it to devise some sort of repeatable jig set up. 
 

 
In conclusion, the framing was mostly uneventful, and not nearly as repetitive or dull as I'd expected. Right pleasurable, in fact. 
 
Next steps will be soaking wood for making the clamps and pre-bending to approximate shape, then sanding them to taper towards the stern. Then while that is drying making frame-spreaders (temporary deck beams, whatever they are called). Then the clamp can be attached, which I'm really looking forward to. 
 
A couple more photos where I just set the covering boards in place and taped on the transom to get a feel for the hull outline. It really is a classy boat with smooth lines. The shallow draft and high stern make it look very fast. 
 

 
Donfarr: I don't know how you keep 3 projects all going at the same time! I know if it were me I would get all the parts mixed up, and also just make a huge mess of the "shop" immediately resulting in reprimand by the Admiral. 
 

Has been a while. Slow going, but that is how this hobby goes.  Life gets in the way of model boat building, sometimes. 

 

Anyway, I lofted frames up to #16, and glued in the keelson. 

 

Sometimes I get into the Zen of model boat building. Like how the sandpaper pulls and cuts better when fresh, and has a certain feel to it. And after sanding off the burn marks, and making sure the corners aren't flaky, I sit there and admire a single frame for a second, a perfect part all to itself. But I still don't like burn marks. 

Next was to trace the futtock templates onto my chosen wood. Don't laugh, but the local craft shop sell bags of 100 lolly sticks for a quid, and as this is a learning build I'm not too precious about the quality of the wood.
 

 
Trimming them on the Dremel multisaw took some practice. I don't think the size of the individual futtocks help nore the thinness of the lolly sticks.
 

 
Each scarf sanded and using tried and tested aircraft modelling techniques the two half-frames are built together pinned over the paper sectional frame templates.
 
As I'm still coming to terms with the tools and techniques some filler was necessary. I also added a treenail top and bottom of each front futtock as per the book and an initial sand. I'll leave the final sanding until the frames are mounted and I'm fairing the prior to planking.
 

 
Getting a motor on over the last couple of weeks (as the shed kit-out is nearly finished).
 

 
About 6 left to do.
 
 

Jan,
 
You dunno half about it ... Bashing is a thing on it's self!!! I have to admit, so far you're doin' great mate

All frames are swan. 
 

 
The seven frames of the centersection with glued floor timbers.
 

 
To assemble the Frames I use this jig.
 

 
 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Guys, thanks for the likes. 
In the meantime I added a table and additional beams, still loose fitted..

I then had a go at making windows which turns out to be real challenge, my first attempt is a complete failure..

I earlier read Alex M.'s explanation on window making
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/page-3
so I have a go at his method, first with copying the frames on transparent paper..

Then to put the paper over white paper with packaging plastic on top (package from Dremel sanding drums; feels like good quality plastic).

Then I find my master in Alex M. with making 05.x 0.5 strips and handling them in a precise way, such small scale really requires a complete different approach to handling materials, and makes me realize that all this kit bashing introduces levels I might not be ready for or take too much time.I will let it rest for a moment, might continue with the deck first
 

Guys, thanks for the likes. 
In the meantime I added a table and additional beams, still loose fitted..

I then had a go at making windows which turns out to be real challenge, my first attempt is a complete failure..

I earlier read Alex M.'s explanation on window making
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/page-3
so I have a go at his method, first with copying the frames on transparent paper..

Then to put the paper over white paper with packaging plastic on top (package from Dremel sanding drums; feels like good quality plastic).

Then I find my master in Alex M. with making 05.x 0.5 strips and handling them in a precise way, such small scale really requires a complete different approach to handling materials, and makes me realize that all this kit bashing introduces levels I might not be ready for or take too much time.I will let it rest for a moment, might continue with the deck first
 

I had planned not to update anymore before I finished the Antje in total but I could not resist to post some progress pictures. Before you look at the pictures please keep in mind that the work is not finished yet. Lots of finising paintwork has to be done and offcourse a matt finish to give a nice uniform shine on the work. First 3 pictures to show the work on the frontdeck and the last pictures one with a Dutch Florin again to show the dimensions. (A florin is less than an inch)
 
Portside from the bow

 
Portside from the rear

 
Starboardside (Iam not satisfied with the wooden deck yet)

 
And the last one with a Florin

Thanks for all the enlightenment!
 
I also found this picture showing wadding on top of the ball...

 
with comment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzzleloader)
"On most naval cannons, one piece of wadding was used to hold the powder in place and served the purpose of creating a better seal around the shot. Another was used to act as a plug to stop the shot rolling out because of the swaying of the ship".

making of side panels..
 

 
And the start of a quick but solid oak interior..

making of side panels..
 

 
And the start of a quick but solid oak interior..

making of side panels..
 

 
And the start of a quick but solid oak interior..

Nenad, next has been some "outside in" engineering by hollowing out the insides and then squaring out some holes for the side windows (still have to design those)

and opening the cabin to the front and placing a door frame..

Reason for enlarging the cabin to the front is to allow the steering wheel to be placed on top, the Corel drawings place the steering wheel in front of the quarter deck, behind the mizzen mast, making it impossible for tiller and wheel to be connected, unless with a tiller that sweeps at belly level through the cabin, and with some intricate wiring underneath the deck.
 
Next will be finalization of cabin, maybe even doing some interior work, and making of rudder for which I have to learn how to solder hinges, the kit's hinges are way to coarse