Cathead

Eric, 
 
I think you are correct, I’m sure that rudder configuration was adequate for the size of your vessel and conditions on the Missouri River. 
 
For the sake of a good rudder discussion, I’ll submit this drawing of the Klondike operated on the Yukon River. You’ll note the same rudder configuration with the addition of a “Monkey Rudder”. 
 
I just thought it might be interesting to add for discussion. 
 
John
 

Keith, to the best of my knowledge, that's a pretty common layout for a sternwheeler stern & rudders. Best I can say is it seemed to work well enough!

They are a nicely detailed set of plans Eric. I guess the rudders were effective but they do look quite compromised being behind a stern which rises sharply and is flat across the beam. 

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

While I've enjoyed this discussion as a novice in this area, I think Steven nails it at one point in observing that some small details that may or may not be in error act as discussion points for the knowledgeable and will not be noticed by the casual viewer. I certainly have a few on my models and it's actually a thrill when someone notices one in person and it sparks an informed discussion. Well done Steven and carry on!

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

Thank you to all for the likes and for following along. 
 
  Thank you, Eberhard.  
 
 
 Below are the 6X glasses I ordered from Amazon...
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CFWSN6P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 
  Working distance is 8 inches away from your face, beyond that objects start to blur. I'm amazed they arrived okay. They were shipped in a thin plastic shipping envelope , no bubble wrap or cardboard around the glasses. I expected to take out a broken mess but not so, they were in perfect condition.
 
 The first time I wore them was for two, thirty minute stretches with a 30 minute break between the two and my eyes were okay. The second time I wore them for a couple of hours straight but it felt like my eyes struggled a bit to adjust back to normal afterward.                                                                                                                                    
 
 But I really really need them because of two recent purchases from Shapeways, see below.
 
https://www.shapeways.com/product/C9PG8J4AN/1-125-royal-navy-seamen-set-104?optionId=301259378&li=ostatus
 
https://www.shapeways.com/product/F3B3ZE7AY/1-125-royal-navy-seamen-set103?optionId=301259186&li=ostatus
 
These Royal Navy figures, in this size, (these figures measure 0.56 inches) are the closest to the latter 19th century US Navy figures I've be able to locate.    
 
 The biggest drawbacks are, the Shapeways figure's trousers are bloused at the boot tops, US Navy, a slight bellbottom trouser goes all the way down to the shoe tops. Royal Navy caps, oval shaped, US Navy, round caps. Less use of white on the US Navy uniform that that of the Royal Navy. The figures being so small, once painted, I think it will be hard to see the differences.  Of course I'll be painting them to resemble the US Navy uniform as close as possible.
 
 This is my first experience with 3D printed parts. Is it best to seal first with varnish/polyurethane or paint with acrylic paint then seal? After testing painting three figures, I think the quickest and easiest way to paint these is the uniform first then the head/face, hands, and boots. 
 

 
 
 And the journey continues......
 

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

In the absence of any plans or other evidence, I based her hull design on Bertrand, for which I did have very detailed plans:


 
These show a flat stern with just a bit of overhang; you can also see the full rudder setup. Remember that I'm building Peerless as a waterline model, so the rudders really can't be seen, except for a hint of the (skegs? is that the right word?). I toned down the rise of the stern and wheel supports a bit, but it's the same basic setup. So all you see on the model is just a hint of the stern curving inward and down, and the otherwise flat plane from port to starboard. One of the last details I'll add it a hint of rudder tops poking out; I haven't done it yet for fear of knocking them off because they'll be very small without the extra support from the part "underwater" and not modeled.
 
So to forestall the next obvious question, I plan to cut off (or not build in the first place) the bottom part of the wheel so that it sits on the display surface as if it's entering the water.

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

Definitely liking the improved tow knees Eric, and I think you just about nailed the paddlewheel scale. 
 
This may be a little off topic of the current subject matter, but I was noticing Peerless’ stern. From the angle of your paddlewheel photo it looks somewhat flat and not tapered. I was curious as to if this was the case or maybe I was just looking at it wrong, but if it is flat, what type of rudder system did she use. Apologies if I jumped ahead a bit, but you know how I like a good rudder discussion. 😁
 
-Brian

The new tow knees are a great, Eric.  

Phil, that's a great story! I, too, think it would be fascinating to cross on a railroad ferry and have never done so. Mrs. Cathead grew up in northern Arkansas and we were just down in the Atkins area a couple years ago.
 
To the best of my knowledge, the first railroad bridge across the Mississippi was built at Rock Island, Illinois in 1856. That bridge is also famous for the lawsuit brought against it by steamboat interests, in which a young Abraham Lincoln represented the bridge interests; it went all the way to a landmark Supreme Court decision that firmly established the right to bridge waterways. This is a good article on the subject.

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

Thanks, Gary!
 
I rebuilt a new version of the tow knees. These are just set in place right now. I decided to focus on the style seen in this photo:
 




Thoughts?
 
I also started laying out a draft of the paddlewheel. Here's the loose size I'm thinking of using; compare with the photo below that is my best view of the stern area.
 
 


Thoughts on all of this? 

Looks great Eric…  Perfect 👍