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vossy

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  1. Like
    vossy reacted to Old Collingwood in Harbor Tug by CDW - FINISHED - Revell - Box Scale - PLASTIC   
    That looks smart  - real nice job.
     
    OC.
  2. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Piet in Harbor Tug by CDW - FINISHED - Revell - Box Scale - PLASTIC   
    This looks like a fabulous new model. Do you have any idea of the dimensions? I am extremely tempted to get this one myself.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  3. Like
    vossy got a reaction from cog in Chaperon by vossy - Model Shipways - 1:48   
    Hi Eric, all building has slowed to a trickle as I have just started a new job which requires a lot of technical training, so by the time I get home I am pretty much zonked out. I have another 2 weeks training left after which I go on shift. So probably in a few weeks I hope to be right back into it. I will more than likely finish the Mississippi first though. Up to the smoke stack stage with her so she shouldn't take too long once i'm back to it, then Chaperon will kick off fully. Thanks for the interest.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  4. Like
    vossy reacted to CDW in Harbor Tug by CDW - FINISHED - Revell - Box Scale - PLASTIC   
    Looks like the shipping box dimensions are 17.6" x 10.4" x 10.2". So I imagine the hull length is somewhere near 17" in length. I have this model in 1:350 scale and it's length is around/about 9" - 10". 
    Not huge, but a large enough scale that it will have great detail potential. The only reservation I have about the model is that it's main construction is resin. Not my favorite medium, but it's likely this model will be a very limited production run. They're probably not investing a ton of money in molds and instead going the limited production, resin production run.
  5. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Cathead in Chaperon by vossy - Model Shipways - 1:48   
    Hi Eric, all building has slowed to a trickle as I have just started a new job which requires a lot of technical training, so by the time I get home I am pretty much zonked out. I have another 2 weeks training left after which I go on shift. So probably in a few weeks I hope to be right back into it. I will more than likely finish the Mississippi first though. Up to the smoke stack stage with her so she shouldn't take too long once i'm back to it, then Chaperon will kick off fully. Thanks for the interest.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  6. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Oliver24 in Advise on first ship kit   
    Hey James, welcome. Number 1 thing I advise is build something you are interested in. No matter what your level of experience etc. we all run into problems at some point. By having a genuine interest in the subject of the build you will be far more likely to overcome the problems and complete the build. My very first wooden model ship was the Amati Santa Maria. Scale 1:50 (from memory), and recommended for intermediate modellers. The instructions were total garbage, as many European kits are, but because I was/am a Columbus fanatic I ploughed on through the problem area's and ended up with a very fine double plank on bulkhead model that I am very proud to say I built. So I reckon being invested in the subject of your build should constitute an extremely large percentage of the decision making process as to which kit to tackle first. And don't forget, no matter what problems you run into, you can bet your house that someone else here has experienced the exact same problem previously and can help you out with answers.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  7. Like
    vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80   
    Hi Anna, I would start by using 80 grit sandpaper to give the hull a good sand by hand. Don't use power sanders unless you are very skilled with them as they can, and will, remove more than you want to. Once the hull has been sanded you need to fill in any large gaps and attain the correct flowing hull shape for the final planking to cover. To do this you may need to fill and sand a few times to form the correct shape. During this process I would suggest you use 120 grit sandpaper. Everyone will have their own method of sanding, whether using blocks etc. I tend to just fold the paper and hand sand it. This way I can sort of feel the curve as well as see it. When you are happy with the hull shape, give it a final sand with 240 grit paper. Note how we have progressively gone from quite course to very fine paper. Finally, depending upon the type of filler you applied you may need/want to brush a clear coat on it so the subsequent glue on the covering planks has a good surface to bond to. I don't tend to do this as the filler I use doesn't require me too, but I know of some very good builders on this site that do. So as with many things in this hobby there are many ways to skin a cat. Or plank a boat.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  8. Like
    vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80   
    G'day Anna, elastic bands (rubber bands), make great temporary holding clamps. They conform to pretty much every shape and are cheap as chips. As Eric has said, once the wood has dried it will hold its shape enough to allow gluing. Again, I usually use elastic bands to further hold the piece whilst the glue sets. As for you bow section on your hull; it wont be too expensive to buy some more thin strips to put another layer of planking over what you have done. If you choose to do so, firstly sand and fill the entire hull to achieve a nice flowing curvature toward the bow and stern (front and back). Give it a nice sand, and you will find you now have a really nice surface to apply a final planking layer which will look first class. Also, try not to use nails unless you want them to be seen. On my current build you can see where I have deliberately put exposed nail heads on the blades of the paddle to simulate large bolts. I will do this to a few more larger structural pieces to further simulate what I think may have been seen on the real vessel.
     
    Overall, your vessel is coming along very nicely and you should be very proud. I will continue to follow along with interest. Good luck.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  9. Like
    vossy got a reaction from William-Victory in HMS Victory 1:72 with sails or not?   
    hello, I don't know if a sail set exists for model or if you can make one yourself, but I would love to see this kit with sails. even furled would be super and not obscure the intricate rigging work.
     
    cheers
    chris
  10. Like
    vossy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80   
    Hi Anna, I would start by using 80 grit sandpaper to give the hull a good sand by hand. Don't use power sanders unless you are very skilled with them as they can, and will, remove more than you want to. Once the hull has been sanded you need to fill in any large gaps and attain the correct flowing hull shape for the final planking to cover. To do this you may need to fill and sand a few times to form the correct shape. During this process I would suggest you use 120 grit sandpaper. Everyone will have their own method of sanding, whether using blocks etc. I tend to just fold the paper and hand sand it. This way I can sort of feel the curve as well as see it. When you are happy with the hull shape, give it a final sand with 240 grit paper. Note how we have progressively gone from quite course to very fine paper. Finally, depending upon the type of filler you applied you may need/want to brush a clear coat on it so the subsequent glue on the covering planks has a good surface to bond to. I don't tend to do this as the filler I use doesn't require me too, but I know of some very good builders on this site that do. So as with many things in this hobby there are many ways to skin a cat. Or plank a boat.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  11. Like
    vossy got a reaction from thibaultron in I thought I knew   
    The Mastini book is gold! If you can get it do so.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  12. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Cathead in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80   
    Hi Anna, I would start by using 80 grit sandpaper to give the hull a good sand by hand. Don't use power sanders unless you are very skilled with them as they can, and will, remove more than you want to. Once the hull has been sanded you need to fill in any large gaps and attain the correct flowing hull shape for the final planking to cover. To do this you may need to fill and sand a few times to form the correct shape. During this process I would suggest you use 120 grit sandpaper. Everyone will have their own method of sanding, whether using blocks etc. I tend to just fold the paper and hand sand it. This way I can sort of feel the curve as well as see it. When you are happy with the hull shape, give it a final sand with 240 grit paper. Note how we have progressively gone from quite course to very fine paper. Finally, depending upon the type of filler you applied you may need/want to brush a clear coat on it so the subsequent glue on the covering planks has a good surface to bond to. I don't tend to do this as the filler I use doesn't require me too, but I know of some very good builders on this site that do. So as with many things in this hobby there are many ways to skin a cat. Or plank a boat.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  13. Like
    vossy reacted to Froggyman in I thought I knew   
    Gentlemen:
    To Chris, Mark and shihawk, Thank you so much for responding to my plea, I found the book and have it on order.
    Maybe with it's help, I can now have a better idea about what I am trying to do.
    I am loving every second I spend in my " Small but cozy shipyard " being retired, I now can spend most of my time enjoying the process .
    Thank you again.
    Froggyman
  14. Like
    vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thanks Pat. We have a local hobby shop here which I reckon I have seen the rods in question.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  15. Like
    vossy got a reaction from mtaylor in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thanks for the response everyone. Unfortunately nothing I have tried works to my satisfaction. This brass wire is way too thick and non-pliable to stretch or roll etc. Once the temperature drops below 40c here, if it ever does, I think I will take Mark's tip and go to the local hobby shop to source some straight rods. My other thought was maybe a very thin chain through the stanchions instead? The constant heat here will doubtless give me plenty of time to mull over the choice.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  16. Like
    vossy got a reaction from tasmanian in I thought I knew   
    The Mastini book is gold! If you can get it do so.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  17. Like
    vossy got a reaction from CaptainSteve in I thought I knew   
    The Mastini book is gold! If you can get it do so.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  18. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Canute in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thanks Pat. We have a local hobby shop here which I reckon I have seen the rods in question.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  19. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Canute in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thanks for the response everyone. Unfortunately nothing I have tried works to my satisfaction. This brass wire is way too thick and non-pliable to stretch or roll etc. Once the temperature drops below 40c here, if it ever does, I think I will take Mark's tip and go to the local hobby shop to source some straight rods. My other thought was maybe a very thin chain through the stanchions instead? The constant heat here will doubtless give me plenty of time to mull over the choice.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  20. Like
    vossy reacted to hornet in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thin brass rod from 1mm and upward in diameter is available on EBay. I’ve found it to be useful for a variety of applications. Usually comes in a pack of 5 & lengths of 300mm 
  21. Like
    vossy got a reaction from thibaultron in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thanks Pat. We have a local hobby shop here which I reckon I have seen the rods in question.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  22. Like
    vossy got a reaction from thibaultron in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Thanks for the response everyone. Unfortunately nothing I have tried works to my satisfaction. This brass wire is way too thick and non-pliable to stretch or roll etc. Once the temperature drops below 40c here, if it ever does, I think I will take Mark's tip and go to the local hobby shop to source some straight rods. My other thought was maybe a very thin chain through the stanchions instead? The constant heat here will doubtless give me plenty of time to mull over the choice.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
  23. Like
    vossy reacted to BANYAN in Straightening thin brass wire   
    Vossy, Hobby Tools Australia in Melbourne stocks K&S wire and posts out very quickly
     
    cheers
     
    Pat
  24. Like
    vossy reacted to ccoyle in I thought I knew   
    Froggy,
     
    One of the best (and cheapest!) things you can do, in all seriousness, is head to your local library and look for ship modeling books. Back in my starting-out days, I was pleasantly surprised by what they had on the shelves. And the staff could easily get other books through their inter-library loan system. Read all you can get your hands on. As primers, look for Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini and Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. Neither of these books should be considered completely authoritative on all matters ship modeling, but they are easy reads, profusely illustrated, and relatively widely available. They'll get your appetite whetted.
     
    Cheers from your neighbor up the I-85 corridor!
  25. Like
    vossy got a reaction from Old Collingwood in King of the Mississippi by Anna - Artesania Latina - 1:80   
    Hi Anna, I would start by using 80 grit sandpaper to give the hull a good sand by hand. Don't use power sanders unless you are very skilled with them as they can, and will, remove more than you want to. Once the hull has been sanded you need to fill in any large gaps and attain the correct flowing hull shape for the final planking to cover. To do this you may need to fill and sand a few times to form the correct shape. During this process I would suggest you use 120 grit sandpaper. Everyone will have their own method of sanding, whether using blocks etc. I tend to just fold the paper and hand sand it. This way I can sort of feel the curve as well as see it. When you are happy with the hull shape, give it a final sand with 240 grit paper. Note how we have progressively gone from quite course to very fine paper. Finally, depending upon the type of filler you applied you may need/want to brush a clear coat on it so the subsequent glue on the covering planks has a good surface to bond to. I don't tend to do this as the filler I use doesn't require me too, but I know of some very good builders on this site that do. So as with many things in this hobby there are many ways to skin a cat. Or plank a boat.
     
    Cheers
     
    Chris
     
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