J T Lombard

Mark:
Which parts did you get from Shapeways?
 
J

Mark:
I'm along for the ride.
regards
J Lombard
 
P.S. I have the Panart 783 kit

Dave:
Thank you
 
J

Welcome to my new build log of the HMS Victory. 
     This journey has a special meaning for me. All my life I wanted to build a ship. Not just any ship, but a highly detailed model, but as with most things life gets in the way. I built many models as a kid and teenager, but nothing like this. I grew up, went to school, got a degree in electronics, then became an engineer,  worked at many trades, became a master machinist,  a tool and die maker, traveled the US, Canada, and Mexico as an engineer for a CNC machine tool manufacturer.  My lifelong hobby was wood working. I retired at age 48 due to medical issues. Now, at 68, I  am working on goals on my bucket list. I desire to build this ship while I still can. I  don't know what time is left .... one year .... 5 ... 20, it's unsure,  but I  have life threatening issues along with other issues.  Enough about me, now let's build a ship.



I  recieved the Mantua Sergal 782 kit of the HMS Victory this morning.  This was not the kit I  wanted. I wanted the Billings Boats  kit, but due to the difficult times now with this virus they are closed temporarily and my order could not be filled. The distributor was very helpful in getting this kit to me as a substitute.  My reason for wanting the Billings  was it provided the basics at a good price and I  could replace the lesser quality parts with aftermarket and make the ship better detailed.  I will be doing the same thing with this kit. I did have to pay an extra $72 for this kit. The Billings was $397. I have been studying McKay's book , The 100 Gun Ship, and finding sources for upgrades while waiting 2 months for the kit to arrive. I figure another $300 in aftermarket pieces will accomplish my goal, still being less than the Caldercraft kit.. and hopefully better.
 
 
 
Mark Frazier 
 

Dave:
Thank you
 
J

Rudder pintle and gudgeon straps I would say,certainly required when I scratch built my Cheerful.
 
Dave 

Glenn:
Can you point to the portion of the instructions that require the brass strips you are looking for?
regards
J Lombard

For the xtra $72 are you getting the Mantua Sergal art. 782 or the Mantua Panart art. 783?
regards
J Lombard

Five versions of the rectangular positioner have been designed and manufactured; the last one can be used in the plane machining of the milling machine with adjustable angles, especially the slotting of various angles of the Keel, the ribs and the crossbeam. At the same time, it can also be used as a precise positioning of rectangular assembly. The metal material can avoid the overflow of glue which makes the workpiece difficult to separate. The material is high hardness aluminum alloy (6061) and brass (H59) .

moved to PM

I am asking $15 + shipping for "Boats of Men-of-War" by W.E. May.

Chuck:
That worked great. Thank your son for me LOL. The pics appeared kinda large but at least it worked.
 
Thanks
 
J

Mark:
Your link ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/345-how-to-save-or-print-your-build-log-or-other-posts) no longer works. Any more help on this topic?
 
J

A lot of us are using acrylic paints in our modeling. I felt we needed a central location where our various tips and techniques could go, instead of being buried in one of our build logs.
 
One area I see time and again is the proper thinning for airbrushing. Coming from a model railroad and aircraft background, I've seen a few different ways to deal with this. I can't reproduce this pamphlet on our site, but you can get it here.   It doesn't cost you anything to log onto the site, but you do need to log in. Sorry about that.
https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/subscribers-only/painting/acrylics
 
The whole pamphlet is excellent, but chapters 3 Mixing and Storage & 4 Formulas for Thinners apply here. They address Modelmaster, Badger and Vallejo paints. Like a lot of hobbyists, model railroaders were put out by Testor's when they dropped the Floquil/PollyScale lines. This pamphlet was done to help folks move into acrylics. And many have adopted the Badger and Vallejo paints. Hence the extensive charts for converting the old paints into these newer acrylics. I'd like to see more on the Tamiya paint, since the big box craft stores seem to stock them around here.
 
I've been on another site that also addresses home made thinners, but parts of that site are undergoing renovation and I can't find the appropriate page to link to. More to come. And please add to these tips and techniques.

good morning 
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships
by C. Nepean Longridge (Author)
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anatomy-Nelsons-Ships-Nepean-Longridge/dp/1854861220/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542099415&sr=8-1&keywords=the+anatomy+of+nelson's+ships
 
 
 

Kevin:
What book do you show in your picture?
regards
 
J

PART 1: How to Spot a Bad Deal
 
Hey, there! It's Christmas time, and I am off work for two weeks. Hooray! I'm also out of town, so I don't have lots of time for modeling. What I do have time for is knocking around on the Internet, including doing some window shopping at eBay.
 
Ah, eBay ... once upon a time, not so very long ago, eBay (the Internet auction site) used to actually be a place where people disposed of unwanted stuff. It was like a gigantic yard sale. Back then, a person could find some real deals. But then someone discovered that they could make a lucrative career out of selling stuff on eBay, and now most sellers are either bona fide retailers or folks seemingly hell-bent on extracting retail prices (or higher) on yard sale merchandise. To borrow a line from Obi-Wan Kenobi, eBay has become a "wretched hive of scum and villainy."
 
Which brings me to the topic of this post. There are still a few good deals to be had on eBay, but you have to wade through a bunch of garbage to find them. Sadly, if you're new to this hobby, you may not know how to separate the true deals from the crazy efforts to simply part you from unjustifiable gobs of your money. So, I thought I would take some time and show you some real examples of the good, the bad, and the ugly of Internet auction site ship model kits. Are you game? Then let's get started!
 
1. First Things First: AVOID PIRATES LIKE THE PLAGUE!
 
Regrettably, eBay has become a haven for unscrupulous retailers with no regard for intellectual property rights. MSW considers these folks to be beyond the ship modeling pale (see topic here). The first thing to look for is the words "From China." If you see that phrase, then speedily move on!
 

 
2. Clueless Sellers
 
eBay is just chock-full of clueless sellers, i.e. people who are deeply ignorant of their kit's real value, as opposed to its imagined value. Have a look at the following example:
 

 
This seller is asking for a jaw-dropping US $1098.00 for a Constructo HMS Pandora. I happened to read elsewhere why this seller thinks that this kit is worth so much. They think that this kit demands a premium price because it is rare and out-of-production (OOP).
 
They are wrong.
 
If you're a newbie and interested in buying a kit off of eBay (or any online auction site, for that matter), you really need to do your homework beforehand. This seller didn't do his homework, and that's why he has attached a ridiculous price tag to this model. Here's some things you need to think about before hitting the bid button:
 
Is this a reputable kit manufacturer?
In this case, the answer is yes. BUT ... that doesn't necessarily mean that this is a good kit. Constructo makes kits, this is true, but they've never been considered one of the premier kit makers, and they're certainly not one of the innovators in our hobby, either.
 
WHY is this kit OOP?
If it's such a great kit, why did Constructo stop making it?
 
Consider this analogy: Chevrolet made over 2 million Vegas between 1970 and 1977. The Vega is now both OOP and (thankfully) rare. Chevy Vegas don't command premium prices because they are rare and out of production. Neither do Constructo kits.
 
3. Why Buy Used When You Can Get It New for the Same Price??
 
Some clueless sellers are easy to spot (like in the previous example) because they are asking way, waaaay more than what the kit is worth. Other sellers are clueless because they are asking the unwary buyer to pay as much for a used and possibly OOP or "new old stock" (NOS) kit as that same kit would cost new, like this one:
 

 
The first thing you need to know about this kit is that it is a Mamoli kit. Mamoli is out of business. The Mamoli line of kits, including Blue Shadow, is now being made and sold by Dusek. Word on the street is that the new Dusek versions are better than the old Mamoli versions. Worse still, this seller is asking for a starting bid of $175, which is about what a new Blue Shadow will cost you straight from Dusek (taking into account exchange rates and VAT), so why would anyone want to buy an older, lesser-quality version for the same price? Caveat emptor!
 
4. Yeah, It's "Vintage," But So What?
 
What do sellers really mean when they say that something is "vintage"? Vintage just means that something is old, but the word "vintage" has less of a pejorative connotation. Check out this example:
 

 
There's a reason why you don't see new Scientific wood model kits anymore: they're bad kits, comparatively speaking. Sure, they were okay back in the day, but kit design has progressed far, far beyond carved balsa hulls and printed or die-cut parts. Another reason to avoid "vintage" kits is that wooden kits don't age well like fine wines. Old kit wood gets dry and brittle. Old kits also usually have inferior fittings and instructions. Best to leave the vintage kits to the collectors.
 
5. Too Close for Comfort
 
Lastly, here's a sneaky example.
 

 
This one looks good at first glance. It's a current, well-designed kit from a reputable manufacturer. The "Buy It Now" price is $69 less than what the manufacturer, Model Expo, is asking for the same kit at their website. BUT ... Model Expo offers free shipping on orders over $150, and this seller doesn't. So the real difference in price (ignoring for now any promotions that Model Expo might be running -- they usually always have something going) is only $22.20. For that slight bit extra you'll get the peace of mind of buying direct from the manufacturer PLUS getting their iron-clad replacement guarantee for any missing or damaged parts. Suddenly that $350 price doesn't look quite so attractive.
 
So those are some examples of pitfalls awaiting unwary newbie modelers at eBay -- it's a dangerous e-commerce world out there! But fear not! In Part 2, I will show that there are still a few good deals to be found, even if they are now fewer and farther between.
 
Until then!
 

Jon:
I just had similar surgery 12 days ago. The 1st 7 days will be painfull so try & stay ahead of it. Also using utmost safety try to move as best you can. I am just now able to dress myself & using necessary precautions take a shower. Follow all directions & I'm confident all will be well. Wishing you the very best.
 
J

Kevin:
What book do you show in your picture?
regards
 
J

Kevin:
What book do you show in your picture?
regards
 
J

Kevin:
What book do you show in your picture?
regards
 
J

Chris:
How 'bout a 1/64 scale, high quality/detailed USS Constitution?

I have Chuck’s Serving Machine and I love it but after using for about ten minutes my wrist really start to ache. Not a function of his machine but more a function of my wrists. I intend to set it up as a block stropping machine.

i hate to keep opening up old logs, but as it is a few years down the road, since the last post, is there a definitive way ahead on rigging this kit, 

After five years working on full-scale shipbuilding projects, two home moves, and with a reduced level of shipbuilding consulting work I now find time to return to ship modeling.  Over the past few years I have enjoyed this opportunity to work on a wide variety of naval destroyer, naval auxiliary, icebreaking, research, and commercial shipbuilding projects and with a number of industry professionals.
 
My loving wife Linda, our two dogs, and I are now located in the beautiful retirement community Sun City Shadow Hills in Indio, CA.  My ship models made the two moves without damage and I have recently completed set up of a small ship model shop in the garage.  Ship model projects planned for the near future include:
Steam Tug Seguin of 1884 – new build based on ¼” scale Bluejacket kit Brigantine Newsboy of 1854 – complete 3/16” scale semi-scratch build 16 Gun Brig Fair American, circa 1780 – complete ¼” scale build based on MS kit Whaling Brig Kate Cory of 1856 – new build based on 3/16” scale MS kit  
As these projects get underway, I plan to develop/restart build logs here on Model Ship World.
 
Regards from the shipyard,
Pete Jaquith