amateur

Mis-identifacation or not. I would call it a pretty close match to the original

Mis-identifacation or not. I would call it a pretty close match to the original

Mis-identifacation or not. I would call it a pretty close match to the original

Several things to take note of in this photo:
I decided not to glaze the windows behind the cockpit. There's nothing of interest to see in the compartment, and cutting out the printed "glass" panels would leave a very narrow and weak strip right next to where the sharpest bend in the exterior skin is -- that's a potentially deadly combination. Plus, the skin fit is very tight, and adding the glazing would make the fit worse. There's a slight alignment error, which you can spot at the place where the wing's trailing edge will eventually meet the fuselage. There was little to nothing I could do about this -- the dorsal and ventral alignment tick marks matched perfectly. The opposite side matches perfectly, too, so correcting this side would only throw off the other side. Oh, well. Worse than the slight alignment error is the fact that the colors on the next fuselage section, cut from a different parts sheet, don't match those on the previous section. You can see the difference in the photo -- it's not a trick of the lighting, and it's more apparent in real life. The blue on the forward section has a definite greenish tint, while the aft section is a truer blue. Since some of the fuselage skins are printed on one sheet, while the rest are on the second sheet, this mismatch will be seen elsewhere on the fuselage. It's kind of a bummer, and it's a printing error, so there's really nothing to be done about it.
 
Cheers!

Thanks for all the likes.
 
The next job was to make the cowl vents - three of them. The kit provides three choices for these - a simple folded version, a slightly more complicated version with a cylindrical body and a simple hood, or the complicated one with the hood made up of individual segments that have to be folded and glued together. Two of them as printed are shown here. I went for these.

Bending and gluing the segments was an exercise in patience. To make it a little easier, the vent was held down on a steel rule with a small modified alligator clip (the teeth had been flattened).

A finished vent, and the three of them in place.


Next thing to be made was the bow winch. Again the kit provides options, simple and detailed. On the left is the detailed version with the simple version on the right, and again I’m doing the detailed one. The only guide to building this is contained within the red square (no actual instructions), and it hasn’t helped to find that some parts are mis-identified. Nevertheless, it was completed and glued in place.


Cheers

And where did you buy your kit?
as Chris says: the hmv-s  come as complete sets. Without  base, but you don’t need that to build the model.
jan
 
 

And where did you buy your kit?
as Chris says: the hmv-s  come as complete sets. Without  base, but you don’t need that to build the model.
jan
 
 

Hi Tim,
 
This is definitively a German Torpedoboat. Quite a lot of these ships were build just before worldwar I. A similar design was build for the Dutch Navy (by the same firm: Vulcan in Stettin)
 
On a few German card fora the design of digital navy is critisized, as it looks as if it is based on only one side view  ( the ship is not completely symmetrical, although DN designed it that way). Also not both funnels are round: one (i believe it is the rear funnel) is elliptical.
But for all people that do not know those details, it is a very nice card model (still have to finish mine  )
 
Jan

Hi Tim,
 
This is definitively a German Torpedoboat. Quite a lot of these ships were build just before worldwar I. A similar design was build for the Dutch Navy (by the same firm: Vulcan in Stettin)
 
On a few German card fora the design of digital navy is critisized, as it looks as if it is based on only one side view  ( the ship is not completely symmetrical, although DN designed it that way). Also not both funnels are round: one (i believe it is the rear funnel) is elliptical.
But for all people that do not know those details, it is a very nice card model (still have to finish mine  )
 
Jan

Hi Tim,
 
This is definitively a German Torpedoboat. Quite a lot of these ships were build just before worldwar I. A similar design was build for the Dutch Navy (by the same firm: Vulcan in Stettin)
 
On a few German card fora the design of digital navy is critisized, as it looks as if it is based on only one side view  ( the ship is not completely symmetrical, although DN designed it that way). Also not both funnels are round: one (i believe it is the rear funnel) is elliptical.
But for all people that do not know those details, it is a very nice card model (still have to finish mine  )
 
Jan

Finished the sub-structure for the empennage. There was quite a bit of confusion with this bit, because first of all I don't read Polish, which meant it took me awhile to catch on to there being different laser-cut parts for the options described back in post #28. I ended up using the wrong main profile former, which subsequently required some minor fixes. Also, the parts numbering system is unlike anything I've seen in any other publisher's kits, which again is very confusing for non-Polish speakers. But who doesn't like a challenge, right? 🙄😆
 

 
There's an inner skin that wraps around the tail wheel well, which I have added but didn't get a picture of -- cuz it's not all that interesting.
 
Cheers!

When turning to pva, make sure your rigging line is natural stuff.
The guterman polyester thread   I used doesn't mind the PVA, and keeps loosening up ....
 
Jan

Nice work! 
Almost all inland steamtugs had funnels that could be lowered.
It is rather difficult to find a pic of a lowered funnel, though. I have been looking for it, and I found one (at 1:35 you see a boat nearing the bridge) 
 
 
Jan

It's been around 40 years since I last  built a model.  Had a pretty good model railroad layout, built and flew control-line and RC planes (balsa, dope, etc.) and many plastic planes.  Also built some bigger furniture in the last few years.

Recently started living full-time in a motorcoach running around the US, moving every week or two.

Decided to get back into model-building because it will satisfy my interest in "building stuff", etc., and can be done in a relatively small space.

I have purchased the Model Shipways 3-boat wooden kit so I won't be tempted to take on a "real" ship until I've learned/relearned the techniques.

Started the Dory and having a great time.  Will start a build log shortly.

Nice work! 
Almost all inland steamtugs had funnels that could be lowered.
It is rather difficult to find a pic of a lowered funnel, though. I have been looking for it, and I found one (at 1:35 you see a boat nearing the bridge) 
 
 
Jan

Nice work! 
Almost all inland steamtugs had funnels that could be lowered.
It is rather difficult to find a pic of a lowered funnel, though. I have been looking for it, and I found one (at 1:35 you see a boat nearing the bridge) 
 
 
Jan

Spartan

Hello all , I’m off and running with the standing rigging on my massive vintage schooner with the name Elmina . I just had to jump in and start tying , please don’t zoom in , I’m new at this and often get comments about the size of my hands. They look more suited for concrete work . I’ve also started painting the decks before I get too far along on rigging. 
I will soon be thinking about running rigging. I know this isn’t a pond yacht forum but I have gotten great advise on this site. 
I not so much on the pond yacht forums I’ve visited. 
can anyone tell me good resources for diagrams , photos etc. I originally thought my model was missing a ships wheel and helm. But I’m now thinking the threaded shaft from the rudder was for some type of mechanisim for the pond yacht steering. Any advice would be helpful. Unfortunately I don’t have a Handel on the pond yacht operation and do not intend to add sails. But I would like it rigged properly.  I have a diagram and photos of existing connections etc. I have to refine my diagram , it’s so crude I can not even understand it. I will continue to post photos and questions on this thread. Thanks again to all 

Thanks for the likes and your comment Rob.
 
The next job was to glue the cap rail onto the top of the bulwarks. As supplied, this was in four pieces, but unfortunately, it didn’t fit, especially at the stern. Slight differences in my build would be the reason. So a new cap rail had to be made. The immediate problem was to get an accurate pattern of the top of the bulwarks. I couldn’t see that trying to trace the outline of the hull onto paper was going to work owing to the sheer of the deck and hence the bulwarks. The hull was not going to sit flat on the paper. So I decided to try photocopying the hull. The first photo shows the result of doing this and the second shows the new cap rail in one piece. Two attempts were required, the first not quite fitting.
 


The cap rail in place. Also visible are six black fairleads on the rail - these are laser cut pieces.



Next was the boiler house. The photo shows the partially complete unit, additional bits yet to be added and also the parts for the funnel. The latter can be made either fixed or pivoted so that it folds down aft. This was to allow the boat to pass under bridges. I decided to make the funnel fixed.

The completed boiler house. The funnel is to go on top, and the rod that allows it to pivot is at the rear of the house, and the counter weights to balance the funnel are the large circular pieces on the end of the arms.
 


 
 
Temporarily in place.

Cheers

An unfinished past build can still come in quite handy! The benefits of keeping  (hiding?) the leftovers!
 
Your progress looks great!
 
Andy

The Christiaan Brunings was commissioned in 1900 at an Amsterdam shipyard, with luxury accommodation (including a marble fireplace) and was apparently used as a “directorate ship”. It was also suitable as an icebreaker. The initial engine was compound steam, replaced in 1998 with a Scottish twin coal-fired boiler. After the war, it was used as a measuring vessel by the Dutch Government until 1968. It was then offered to the Dutch Historical Maritime Museum Association, and since then has been a museum ship.
 
The kit from World of Paperships contains seven pre-printed sheets of A4 plus one sheet of laser-cut details. Some of the sheets are printed on both sides, making backup tricky. There are two and a half sheets of instructions and two illustrated sheets. The printed sheets look to be very good, the instructions we’ll see, but the illustrated sheets lack some clarity.
 


The first photo shows the bare hull parts cut out ready for assembly, while the second shows the basic hull assembled.


The hull with the two piece deck in place.

The hull sides are in two pieces, within some obvious compound curves at the stern.

The stern done. Some minor deck details have been added as well.

Both sides are complete. The bulwarks are somewhat wavy, hopefully this will be corrected when the bulwark supports are added.


Cheers

Morning Departure. another w/c 'Postcard' 6” X4”

Nice model!
normally Corel has a rather basic numbering system, showing what goes where. Not easy to follow, but it leaves little to guess (only number matching)
As soon as I understood the system, it worked like a charm.
 
can you give a pic of the plans, that might help in finding the solution to your problem(s)
 
Jan

Nice model!
normally Corel has a rather basic numbering system, showing what goes where. Not easy to follow, but it leaves little to guess (only number matching)
As soon as I understood the system, it worked like a charm.
 
can you give a pic of the plans, that might help in finding the solution to your problem(s)
 
Jan