Moxis
-
Posts
314 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Moxis reacted to Jaager in Bandsaws
My Rikon 14" uses a 142" circumference blade. The spec literature allows 1/4" to 1" for blade width. I did not look too hard, but I did not find any 1/8" x 142" blades for sale.
It is strong enough to tension a 1" blade, but I gave up on expecting a wider blade to improve resaw tracking and use 1/2" blades. I think the frame is steel. It is heavy enough that I hired it assembled, delivered, and adjusted.
I never gave much thought to what 9" / 10" / 14" /18" really referred to. The 9"/10" are smaller bench top. The 14" is a large free standing. The 18" is really large free standing. It appears that 9" - 18" is the theoretical maximum height of cut - the upper housing to table distance. I think that the upper blade guide reduces the actual distance possible. I don't think that I would care to try to get 12" diameter log thru - too heavy, too unwieldy, way out of scale. I do not build full size furniture or guitars so wide, thin boards are not something that I need. 2" wide is generally enough and 4" is my upper limit. It is the power and precision in cutting and tracking that requires a 14" saw. If you want frustration, try using a bandsaw that will not track for resawing.
-
Moxis reacted to Torrens in Bandsaws
For the past six months, if not longer, few Hegner scroll saws are available in the UK! Almost all are listed as 'currently unavailable'! I've registered my interest and have emailed the company and their UK distributor, but have heard nothing! Very frustrating as a Hegner scroll saw is what I would like!
-
Moxis reacted to Bob Blarney in Bandsaws
Perhaps you might enjoy watching this fellow rebuild a sailing yacht from the early 1900s. He uses a 36" shipsaw to cut new frames.
-
Moxis reacted to davec in Bandsaws
I agree with what everyone has said here about using a scroll saw for finer curve cutting. I have a Dewalt that I am really happy with. I also have a 14" Delta bandsaw with a ~2 hp motor. I bought it for multiple uses, but have ended up using it only for resawing billets. I put a 1" resaw blade on it, and have it adjusted so it cuts straight with a fence. I don't really like swapping blades on it (big long blades with tons of teeth that have to get folded up to store - too much opportunity for cutting myself). I have not had anything with curves that I couldn't cut on the scrollsaw, and need to resaw frequently enough that it is nice to have everything set up and adjusted on the bandsaw when needed. 14" is way more than big enough to resaw anything you would need for model ships. I don't put anything wider than 3" through the thickness sander, and this is easy for the band saw.
-
-
Moxis reacted to Bob Blarney in Bandsaws
Yes, it refers to the diameter of the wheels. The actual distance from the blade to the saw's frame is less. On my ancient 1940s Milwaukee-Delta it's about 12", but with forethought that's not usually a problem. A standard 14" saw has ~6 inches depth of cut, but with an optional riser block it will cut 12" thick. The motor's power is not as important as some believe - It's a equally a matter of proper saw adjustment, a suitable blade style, and feed rate.
-
-
Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Table Saw recommendations
I have same question, I wouldn't like to order blades from US, they must be available in Europe too.
-
Moxis got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Mini Table Saw recommendations
I have a Proxxon FET, which is a great little saw which I use every day for scratch building. I am using also a 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade with the saw, which is better for ripping planks & other work than the stock one. But because the saw is already an old model, it has one drawback: It does not have the micrometer adjustable fence which is standard with new saws nowadays.
So if you folks are thinking to buy the FET, (or a Micro Lux alternative) be sure that it has this micrometer adjustable fence. And buy the 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade as well. You won't regret it.
https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27070.php?list
-
Moxis got a reaction from davyboy in Mini Table Saw recommendations
I have a Proxxon FET, which is a great little saw which I use every day for scratch building. I am using also a 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade with the saw, which is better for ripping planks & other work than the stock one. But because the saw is already an old model, it has one drawback: It does not have the micrometer adjustable fence which is standard with new saws nowadays.
So if you folks are thinking to buy the FET, (or a Micro Lux alternative) be sure that it has this micrometer adjustable fence. And buy the 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade as well. You won't regret it.
https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27070.php?list
-
Moxis reacted to mtaylor in Mini Table Saw recommendations
I buy blades from here: https://www.malcosaw.com/ Cheaper and better than the MM ones. Also, have a look here (PDF). This was written by a commercial wood supplier who's since retiered. He used the Byrne's saw. However the info on blades works for just about any small hobby saw....
Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
-
Moxis reacted to mtaylor in Mini Table Saw recommendations
Yes, he's pulling the rear of the rear of the fence slightly out and away from the blade which prevents kickback. What I've done is put a length of metal on my fence on the blade side such that then of the metal add-on stops just back of the cutting edge. I can run the wood through and the cut plank is free of the blade.
-
Moxis reacted to stuglo in Mini Table Saw recommendations
I've had a proxxon K230 for 6 years including 2 scratch built models. I've had to buy several types of blade and certainly agree that for "heavy"work, tungsten are worthwhile. If and when this breaks, I would like the Byrnes but with shipping it is VERY expensive. The lack of accuracy of the proxxon can be compensated by finishing by sanding as can the lack of tilt facility
-
Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Table Saw recommendations
Good information about the blades, thanks Mark!
I have tried the slitting saw blades made of HSS for ripping planks but had not very good results. The blades were bending and didn't give straight strips, and width of planks were not at all equal. So this is why I changed into tungsten carbide tipped blades and have had much better results.
But it may be that my blades were too thin, they had thickness of 0,5 mm and 1 mm.
-
Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Table Saw recommendations
I have a Proxxon FET, which is a great little saw which I use every day for scratch building. I am using also a 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade with the saw, which is better for ripping planks & other work than the stock one. But because the saw is already an old model, it has one drawback: It does not have the micrometer adjustable fence which is standard with new saws nowadays.
So if you folks are thinking to buy the FET, (or a Micro Lux alternative) be sure that it has this micrometer adjustable fence. And buy the 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade as well. You won't regret it.
https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27070.php?list
-
Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Help with soldering
I was trying to find this flux from internet but found only the flux remover. Is this the stuff you are referring to?
-
Moxis got a reaction from druxey in Help with soldering
I was trying to find this flux from internet but found only the flux remover. Is this the stuff you are referring to?
-
Moxis reacted to kurtvd19 in Making extremely tiny fittings
I had to make this same kind if fitting. The steps I used are shown in the photos.
Small files were used to round off the square edges. Polished and then plated.
-
Moxis got a reaction from tkay11 in Making extremely tiny fittings
One more method which I have used a couple of times:
-
Moxis got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Making extremely tiny fittings
One more method which I have used a couple of times:
-
Moxis got a reaction from BobG in Hooks and blocks
Very interesting topic. Someone was asking where to get screws smaller than 1,0 millimetres. Here you can buy screws starting from M0,6: https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/modellschrauben-messing/messing-hoher-kopf.html
-
Moxis reacted to mtaylor in Hooks and blocks
There's also: https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/bolts which is the company that bought out the old scale hardware web shop.
-
Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Hooks and blocks
Very interesting topic. Someone was asking where to get screws smaller than 1,0 millimetres. Here you can buy screws starting from M0,6: https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/modellschrauben-messing/messing-hoher-kopf.html
-
Moxis got a reaction from toms10 in Making extremely tiny fittings
One more method which I have used a couple of times:
-
.thumb.JPG.33e8fc9704bbb01f03cf31c187b62df9.JPG)
Moxis got a reaction from Retired guy in Making extremely tiny fittings
One more method which I have used a couple of times:
Our Emblem ®
