kurtvd19

This is Bob's information from a club newsletter.  I have communicated with him recently and he is selling the motor upgrade kits. Call or write him if you want a kit.
Kurt
 
Ship Ahoy Models
39 Pearl Road
Saugus, MA  01906
Equipment For Sale
•  Model Maker’s Thickness Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  6" Tilt Table Disc Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  Seizing and Serving Tool.
•  Upgrade your Preac table saw with 1/3 HP motor; Complete Kit - motor, cord, 1/4" V belt, motor
mount and base - $100
<http://www.shipahoymodels.com/>
Bob Prezioso      781 231-0212
 

“Back in the day” when plastic models first came out they were considered to be little more than toys to be assembled by boys (girls played with dolls).  Real modelers built balsa and tissue paper airplanes and wooden ships.  Issues like scale, viewing distance, could be subordinated to market appeal.  As late as the1990’s the Nautical Research Guild ignored the existence of plastic models completely.
 
Times have changed and the level of realism and accuracy now incorporated into plastic models can be astonishing as demonstrated by projects on this forum.  Many of these efforts feature a lot of aftermarket parts but if you are building a “vintage” kit out of the box correction of these old mold features will be required.
 
Roger
 
 

This is Bob's information from a club newsletter.  I have communicated with him recently and he is selling the motor upgrade kits. Call or write him if you want a kit.
Kurt
 
Ship Ahoy Models
39 Pearl Road
Saugus, MA  01906
Equipment For Sale
•  Model Maker’s Thickness Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  6" Tilt Table Disc Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  Seizing and Serving Tool.
•  Upgrade your Preac table saw with 1/3 HP motor; Complete Kit - motor, cord, 1/4" V belt, motor
mount and base - $100
<http://www.shipahoymodels.com/>
Bob Prezioso      781 231-0212
 

Thanks, Kurt! I do have an airbrush which was working last time I used it a couple years ago. The 3D cannon are very smooth and don’t show any of the linear striations common on printed parts. Whatever they used it printed in very high resolution. 

This is Bob's information from a club newsletter.  I have communicated with him recently and he is selling the motor upgrade kits. Call or write him if you want a kit.
Kurt
 
Ship Ahoy Models
39 Pearl Road
Saugus, MA  01906
Equipment For Sale
•  Model Maker’s Thickness Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  6" Tilt Table Disc Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  Seizing and Serving Tool.
•  Upgrade your Preac table saw with 1/3 HP motor; Complete Kit - motor, cord, 1/4" V belt, motor
mount and base - $100
<http://www.shipahoymodels.com/>
Bob Prezioso      781 231-0212
 

Pat:
Badger has a fairly new primer paint for 3D printed parts.  It is called 3D Prime.  It's made to stick well to the 3D printed parts - some paints have difficulty sticking - and they smooth out the surface pretty good.  As part of the 3D Prime line they have a translucent primer called 3D Surface Smoother that handles the rougher striations but your parts look smoother than one that need this option.  3D Prime is designed for airbrushing like all of their paints but can be brushed.  With guns I wouldn't try brushing with any paint but if I remember correctly you do have an airbrush.

Pat:
Badger has a fairly new primer paint for 3D printed parts.  It is called 3D Prime.  It's made to stick well to the 3D printed parts - some paints have difficulty sticking - and they smooth out the surface pretty good.  As part of the 3D Prime line they have a translucent primer called 3D Surface Smoother that handles the rougher striations but your parts look smoother than one that need this option.  3D Prime is designed for airbrushing like all of their paints but can be brushed.  With guns I wouldn't try brushing with any paint but if I remember correctly you do have an airbrush.

This is Bob's information from a club newsletter.  I have communicated with him recently and he is selling the motor upgrade kits. Call or write him if you want a kit.
Kurt
 
Ship Ahoy Models
39 Pearl Road
Saugus, MA  01906
Equipment For Sale
•  Model Maker’s Thickness Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  6" Tilt Table Disc Sander, 1/4 HP motor
•  Seizing and Serving Tool.
•  Upgrade your Preac table saw with 1/3 HP motor; Complete Kit - motor, cord, 1/4" V belt, motor
mount and base - $100
<http://www.shipahoymodels.com/>
Bob Prezioso      781 231-0212
 

Here is some info on transverse chains from a talk at a NRG Conference in St. Louis, MO in 2013 presented by Jack Custer a noted expert on steamboats.  Jack was the Editor and Publisher of the Egregious Steamboat Journal.  The talk was on Steamboat Architecture.  A photo of the J.M. White is also included.  I think the drawings and photos were printed in the Egregious Steamboat Journal at some time.

I agree when it's small scales.  I build most models at 1/24 or 1/12 and some at 1/48 and it shows at these scales.

Here is some info on transverse chains from a talk at a NRG Conference in St. Louis, MO in 2013 presented by Jack Custer a noted expert on steamboats.  Jack was the Editor and Publisher of the Egregious Steamboat Journal.  The talk was on Steamboat Architecture.  A photo of the J.M. White is also included.  I think the drawings and photos were printed in the Egregious Steamboat Journal at some time.

I thought the photo I have was of the J.M. White but I must be mistaken.  The photo I was thinking of was provided by Ralph DuPae who found/provided most of the photos in the museum's collection. 

Here is some info on transverse chains from a talk at a NRG Conference in St. Louis, MO in 2013 presented by Jack Custer a noted expert on steamboats.  Jack was the Editor and Publisher of the Egregious Steamboat Journal.  The talk was on Steamboat Architecture.  A photo of the J.M. White is also included.  I think the drawings and photos were printed in the Egregious Steamboat Journal at some time.

Stay-Brite blackens very well.
 

I agree when it's small scales.  I build most models at 1/24 or 1/12 and some at 1/48 and it shows at these scales.

The scriber from UMM is very good - have used one many times  UMM03 UMM™ Third Generation Scriber SCR-03 "Universal"  I have used it mostly on plastic to delineate door and window seams/openings in scratch built tugs where there is a line visible where panels and components join.
 
However, I agree with Roger that scribing the deck will give you an unrealistic appearance. 

I agree when it's small scales.  I build most models at 1/24 or 1/12 and some at 1/48 and it shows at these scales.

I thought the photo I have was of the J.M. White but I must be mistaken.  The photo I was thinking of was provided by Ralph DuPae who found/provided most of the photos in the museum's collection. 

The scriber from UMM is very good - have used one many times  UMM03 UMM™ Third Generation Scriber SCR-03 "Universal"  I have used it mostly on plastic to delineate door and window seams/openings in scratch built tugs where there is a line visible where panels and components join.
 
However, I agree with Roger that scribing the deck will give you an unrealistic appearance. 

Stay-Brite blackens very well.
 

The scriber from UMM is very good - have used one many times  UMM03 UMM™ Third Generation Scriber SCR-03 "Universal"  I have used it mostly on plastic to delineate door and window seams/openings in scratch built tugs where there is a line visible where panels and components join.
 
However, I agree with Roger that scribing the deck will give you an unrealistic appearance. 

A bit of good progress today.  Got the shear strakes (top plank) of 1/32" cedar on the exterior bulkheads put in without much hassle.  
 

 

 
Once in the upper strakes were in, I realized I needed a bit of an additional sill for the sheave blocks to sit on...so just added a bit of interior wood to support the blocks when I glue them in...as they will need to be 'set' when I finally start putting in my interior planking.  At least, that's the way I envision it...so I put in a few bits of wood in the interior wall under the blocks.
 

 

 

 
And finally, I dry fit my blocks on both sides to see how the look, as well as gauge how much additional wood I need to remove during my interior bulkhead sanding.  So far, they don't look too bad...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I may consider setting in the blocks and using a bit of filler if needed to plug the minor gaps.  (I think the fit of the block was pretty good considering I had to drill those rectangles out by hand!  Lesson learned...future ships I'll think about this before I lay down a single plank)
 
But one thing I am now starting to think about...is the deck and the exterior colors.  I was originally planning to keep my exterior bulkheads their natural color...and the deck made from boxwood.  Now I am considering rethinking the stain on the exterior bulkhead, and making the deck from cedar...because I have really enjoyed working with cedar!  The jury is still out on this one...
 
Moving on...
 

 

Stay-Brite has plenty of strength to with sand any amount of tension that can be put on rigging a model ship.  I have used it with wire rigging on 1/12 scale models.  I would say that the yards or even the mast will break before a Stay-Brite joint.  Used to use silver solder all the time - started with radio control boats and needed it for certain joints - rudder, control arms, etc.  Tried Stay-Brite on those joints and tried to break them and gave up and it's very rare that I use silver solder today.

Stay-Brite has plenty of strength to with sand any amount of tension that can be put on rigging a model ship.  I have used it with wire rigging on 1/12 scale models.  I would say that the yards or even the mast will break before a Stay-Brite joint.  Used to use silver solder all the time - started with radio control boats and needed it for certain joints - rudder, control arms, etc.  Tried Stay-Brite on those joints and tried to break them and gave up and it's very rare that I use silver solder today.

Stay-Brite has plenty of strength to with sand any amount of tension that can be put on rigging a model ship.  I have used it with wire rigging on 1/12 scale models.  I would say that the yards or even the mast will break before a Stay-Brite joint.  Used to use silver solder all the time - started with radio control boats and needed it for certain joints - rudder, control arms, etc.  Tried Stay-Brite on those joints and tried to break them and gave up and it's very rare that I use silver solder today.