Cabbie

I'd seen your log, Mario, and it gave me a good bit of help - lovely marquetry!
 
Thanks, Bob, you're quite right of course, I deliberately set the whistle at the front so I can warn anyone ahead of my approach 
 
Anyway, a last burst of building and she's almost there. The brass wire in the kit is supplied rolled up; it's nearly impossible to get it straight, so I used some hollow brass tube for the uprights, and the supplied wire fitted in for the crossbeams, held in with a spot of CA:
 

 
And finished! I haven't put the collar (?) on the top of the chimney, I think it looked out of scale and possibly not very secure as it just sits on top. I may try an inverse-cone shape in the future.
 

 
These photos are of her with and without the clerestory; I'm still not decided. It's only sitting there; if it's permanent I'll glue it on. Opinions welcome!
 

 

 

 
Conclusion: I've enjoyed the build, the kit is basically good although some timber was missing and all the timber was hard to identify, especially as the instructions tell you to use,say, a 13mm piece of 2 x 3, but there are several other items from 2 x 3 and no clue as to cutting the 480mm length supplied (if that makes sense). Also, single-planking with 2mm strips was not the best design decision, although the extra veneer pieces were a good solution. The timber was all excellent quality as were the fittings, and the instructions, with step-by-step colour photos, were the clearest I've seen. 
 
And now for my scratch-build barge!

The first of the sails
 

 

 

 

Wow, Give yourself a medal for bravery.  I will be in the 2nd row Chris

Wow, Give yourself a medal for bravery.  I will be in the 2nd row Chris

Prayers done, Best wishes for a speedy recovery

Prayers done, Best wishes for a speedy recovery

Prayers done, Best wishes for a speedy recovery

Just stick with it,and see it through to the end.
Don't get frustrated and start another one.
Cheers Chris

Hi Chap,
I can't comment on the warped stuff other than your "Blocks" will most probably  straighten things out. (Clamp and glue your Bulkheads/Keel. Your "Jig looks really robust.)
Pedestals will come much later in your build, after Planking.
So, my thoughts, get everything straight, Blocks inc. to real;ly lock things in and install and Glue your Bulkheads.
 
Think of this stage as a miniature Joinery project.
 
Wot comes later is also a miniature joinery project, no straight lines!!
 
Pedestals are available, pre-drilled`but expensive, (For me anyway. Have to import), in NZ 
 
Any Help?

Good Evening
A little update, Some of the ply was warped, and bent and it needed a serious build board to
put it in the right shape. I cut the slots for the masts and a rebate for the planks to fit in
along the false keel.
 
Can any show me how the ship is bolted to a base board through the keel.
I have seen some examples but they don't show totally what is happening.
Can hollow pedestals be bought?
 
I am getting ready to start glueing bulheads and blocks in place.
 
A few pics




 
Thanks Chris

So...  many...   ropes...  
 
I have no idea how people that do full ship rigs, in much smaller scales than this, don't go completely insane.
 
Attached the main outhaul, which just dead-ends at the sheave on the boom since I don't have sails, and the boom lift.

 
Massive mess of ropes and blocks.  New to this mess is the boom lift, and the gaff throat halliard.

 
Boom lift tackle.  Belaying this off to the cleat on the shroud was..  an interesting experience.

 
Top from the other side with a better view of the gaff throat halliard.  Slightly out of focus, sorry about that.

 
Gaff throat halliard tackle and belayed to the Riding Bitt.

 
Cleaning up all the belayed ends, and adding coils is going to be pretty interesting later on.

That's good to hear, I just bought one. Chris

The Proxxon KS 230 is a bit more pricey, but still very reasonable. It is much more substantial than this 'toy' and does have safety features.

I haven't done anything on the ship for a few weeks, I've been otherwise occupied. Today I manged to get the mizzen stay made. Notice the difference to how its set up in the AOTS, I won't be fitting the staysail stay as shown in the AOTS either.

Ok, Ok, you lot,calm down. I know that you have been clamouring for another Endeavour build, so I am going to
do one for you. ( with a lot of help from everyone, i hope) Which is lucky for me because thats what I really want to do.
The Syren will have to sit on the shelf a bit longer.
 
The reason for calling it a kit fiddle is that i don't really know what I am going to do or how to do it.
I will just fiddle with it until i get the look  I want.
 
One thing that I know I am going to do is cut a lot of my own timbers and planks ect.
I have read that the Replica has used Jarrah on the hull planking below the wales, and and Oregon Pine
used above the waterline. The hull will be left unpainted, I hope, if my planking is good enough.
 
This is another learning build for me as such i want to try spiling, and bending the hull planks and
just to see what ends up happening.
 
I have plenty of jarrah, and a lot of Kauri lining boards that I will use for the decks instead of
the oregon.
 
One look that i do like on some models, is the stripey lines of the bigger ships with the constrast
between the wales and planks, something that I want to do here, if i can.
 
Something that I do not like at all is the red paint that is used. I really hate it. Therefore, there will not
be much painting done except for the blue that is used. (maybe)
 
I think that it will be done as what i am calling hybrid planked, double planking for the wales and below  and
single planking above. To get the look of the replica as much as possible.
 
The kit is 20 yrs old, hence some of the ply is bent and needs some serious blocking, to straighten and
square up.
 
Enough talk here is a few pics
 


 
Kauri and Jarrah
 
PS it is going to be a slow build, which is good, because i am a master procrastinator.
 
Hooroo Chris

Hi Chris
 
Welcome to the endeavour club.
I built this kit twenty something years ago, your box looks identical to mine, so same age I reckon. When I built it I left everything natural wood except for some blue on the upper part of the sides and stern. I wanted it to be an ornament more than a scale model, and it still holds pride of place on the shelf in my living room. There are pics of it in the gallery on here if you want to check out the finish etc. 
 
Cheers
Steve

All of the frames are glued to the rising wood and the deadwood except the last two, P and Q.  I had to remake the two pair of forward cant frames, because I didn't like the way they fit.  They are much better now, and the fairing of the hull will be easier.  I did rum into trouble with frame P, the next to the last one.  Basically the kit pieces made for a  set of frames that tended to "curl in" rather than line up with the upper futtocks of the frames that come before.  The size of the finished frame doesn't leave enough excess wood to fair frame P into the same plane as the frames before.  So I used the beveling template to make a new pair of frames, and beveled them to fit the hull curves at that station.  Cutting out the futtocks and gluing them together is easy...fitting the frame in place without an accurate beveling template is hard.  It took me a couple of hours to fit the new frames, but I like the end result.
 
The first photo shows the old frame P.  It is the first one.  Notice how the upper futtock is rotated inward.  The second and third photos shows the new frame P before beveling. The forward edge of the frame is high compared to the frame in front, and the uppermost  parts need to be shaped.  The last three photos are of the final pair of frames P in position in the jig.  The uppermost part flows more smoothly and the inside and outside surfaces are fair compared with the frame before.  A great improvement.  Once the poly is dry I'll glue this frame in place, fair the upper hull and install temporary ribbands to the frame tops.  The model will be ready to come out of the jig,

Ok, Ok, you lot,calm down. I know that you have been clamouring for another Endeavour build, so I am going to
do one for you. ( with a lot of help from everyone, i hope) Which is lucky for me because thats what I really want to do.
The Syren will have to sit on the shelf a bit longer.
 
The reason for calling it a kit fiddle is that i don't really know what I am going to do or how to do it.
I will just fiddle with it until i get the look  I want.
 
One thing that I know I am going to do is cut a lot of my own timbers and planks ect.
I have read that the Replica has used Jarrah on the hull planking below the wales, and and Oregon Pine
used above the waterline. The hull will be left unpainted, I hope, if my planking is good enough.
 
This is another learning build for me as such i want to try spiling, and bending the hull planks and
just to see what ends up happening.
 
I have plenty of jarrah, and a lot of Kauri lining boards that I will use for the decks instead of
the oregon.
 
One look that i do like on some models, is the stripey lines of the bigger ships with the constrast
between the wales and planks, something that I want to do here, if i can.
 
Something that I do not like at all is the red paint that is used. I really hate it. Therefore, there will not
be much painting done except for the blue that is used. (maybe)
 
I think that it will be done as what i am calling hybrid planked, double planking for the wales and below  and
single planking above. To get the look of the replica as much as possible.
 
The kit is 20 yrs old, hence some of the ply is bent and needs some serious blocking, to straighten and
square up.
 
Enough talk here is a few pics
 


 
Kauri and Jarrah
 
PS it is going to be a slow build, which is good, because i am a master procrastinator.
 
Hooroo Chris

Hi folks,
 
I made a little change on the anchors. According to the instructions the bands around the anchor stock should be made from the brass provided with the kit. It is 5mm wide. But this is much to much... so I changed it. I used some black thick card for modelling. This card I can cut very exactly and so I can make much smaller bands according to original photos.
 
In the book from Wolfram zu Mondfeld it is said that all metal items on a seaship should be painted black. So I colored the bolts and the ring; the bolts are too big but I do not know at the moment how to make it in an other way than to cut off the nailheads and use them.
 
All in all I like the second attempt more than the first
 
CU
 
Cheerio my friends
 
Max

Ok, Ok, you lot,calm down. I know that you have been clamouring for another Endeavour build, so I am going to
do one for you. ( with a lot of help from everyone, i hope) Which is lucky for me because thats what I really want to do.
The Syren will have to sit on the shelf a bit longer.
 
The reason for calling it a kit fiddle is that i don't really know what I am going to do or how to do it.
I will just fiddle with it until i get the look  I want.
 
One thing that I know I am going to do is cut a lot of my own timbers and planks ect.
I have read that the Replica has used Jarrah on the hull planking below the wales, and and Oregon Pine
used above the waterline. The hull will be left unpainted, I hope, if my planking is good enough.
 
This is another learning build for me as such i want to try spiling, and bending the hull planks and
just to see what ends up happening.
 
I have plenty of jarrah, and a lot of Kauri lining boards that I will use for the decks instead of
the oregon.
 
One look that i do like on some models, is the stripey lines of the bigger ships with the constrast
between the wales and planks, something that I want to do here, if i can.
 
Something that I do not like at all is the red paint that is used. I really hate it. Therefore, there will not
be much painting done except for the blue that is used. (maybe)
 
I think that it will be done as what i am calling hybrid planked, double planking for the wales and below  and
single planking above. To get the look of the replica as much as possible.
 
The kit is 20 yrs old, hence some of the ply is bent and needs some serious blocking, to straighten and
square up.
 
Enough talk here is a few pics
 


 
Kauri and Jarrah
 
PS it is going to be a slow build, which is good, because i am a master procrastinator.
 
Hooroo Chris

Lower hull planking progresses. Chuck says that Cheerful can be planked without spiling by edge bending the planks (and has proved it beautifully on his own model). Well, so far, so good. I have now done the upper belt of the port side lower planking. While it doesn't look anywhere as good as Chuck's, I'm reasonably satisfied. 
 
Each plank was first tapered, then bent, then edge beveled where necessary for a tight fit. I followed the butt pattern shown in the plans.I must admit that it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks, and I went back to my old methods of plank bending, using water and heat, rather than the method used and shown by Chuck. In any event, it's now on to the same work on the starboard side.
 
Bob 

Hello my friends,
 
here is just another update. The Endeavour takes good progress. It is really a fun to build the deck furniture so far. The kit offers a lot of prefabricated and precut parts for some of the quite difficult items like the stepway across the rudder or the nighthouse for the compass. But I decided not only to build the parts but also to improve them. In the plans they use ordinary light timber. I didnt like this and changed it into walnut.The anchor is just built not fixed yet.
 
I varnished the hull with clear semigloss laquer - the color of the timber darkened a little bit - the pice only give some kind of imagination, in real its quite more intense.
 
I hope you like the pics - and as always any comment is welcome.
 
CU
 
Cheerio
 
Max

And here are a couple of pictures of the masts on the boat...

That depends on what sort of 2 yr old
 Chris

On my Swift the mast holes were to big, so I cut some fine wedges to put around
the mast, then the mast hole collars covered the hole, worked well to line the masts up.
 Chris