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And once again I've made a mistake. This drawing from 1815 shows the loading of the large launch with barrels of drinking water. And so, of course, I had to know how big the barrels were in order to put them in my launch. These large barrels are so-called Leaguers with the equivalent of 480 liters. So with wood, they weigh over half a ton. And then 14 of them in the boat, making well over 7 tons. The research was somewhat difficult, as the volumes are often mentioned, but not the exact dimensions. In the meantime, I have researched the sizes of the whole family more or less reliably, so that I was able to start on the models. Here are the 3 sizes for the model: Leaguer 480 liters, Puncheon 318 liters, Hogshead 200 liters and a small powder keg. Each in three parts, as I don't want the supports to be visible as usual. Family picture with avatar. And after priming and inking came the challenge: blackening the hoops. At the back right was with the brush. On a good day, I get a few hoops, but then it's all over. Okay, that wasn't a particularly good day anyway. So I tried the back left with a felt-tip pen, which was better, but still uneven and above all an unpleasant metallic-reddish sheen. And in front a completely different approach, because I remembered that the prints are made of black resin. I quickly tried to see if sanding the hoops worked, and lo and behold ... ... it works like a charm! The powder keg was given its copper hoops and light-colored withy rings and joined the others. No iron hoops on purpose, because they could cause sparks and that would be really stupid. The copper is also nicely embedded between the withy rings so that it doesn't stick out. There are wonderful artifacts showing this, recovered from the HMS Invincible, which sank in 1758. And that brings us very close to what I wanted 🙂 XXXDAn

I had finally found the time to finish off a few little things around the stove. It was slowly becoming what I wanted http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif Here are two colour versions, one with a classic red brick floor and one with the typical southern English yellow-beige floor covering. And here in the detail shots you can also see the warming trays that could be hung on the handrail of the cooker. Of course, the stove also includes the kitchen area. I have chosen the wickerwork that can be seen on the contemporary model of the Princess Royal and others. The whole thing is a cute little kit of 22 parts. The drive chain is twisted copper wire and the rail is bent wire, for which there is a template. Here are a few more details: The base plate with catch tray and tube for the fresh air supply from the deck below ... ... the stove body ... ... the holders for the skewers ... ... the distiller with all its attachments ... ... ... and the cowl, all that's missing is the round cover plate against rain and storm. As usual, the ensemble was finished with a little diluted ink and a white drybrush, and the metal parts with a little graphite. XXXDAn PS: And it took me a while before I had the courage to print the warming trays directly and completely. But all the attempts to glue the holders on with holders were just horrible in the result ...

That is what I used too 🙂 XXXDAn

Waiting for Godot ... Since the geometry of the boats is highly complex, the printer has to run at the highest resolution, and that takes time ... That's why I used the time in between to finish a few other things, or rather to give them a final polish. All the bitts on the upper deck have now been joined by the bitts on the upper battery deck, which hold all the halyards of the main mast. Big strong things with nice rollers in the base. Here with the swifel pump in between. You can already admire them in the open heart of my Vic. The matching deck beam supports. Cheaper by the dozen. A bit of drybrushing here too to modulate the shape. Plus the small kit of the riding bitts and what you can be done with it. And I would like to take this opportunity to out myself again: As much as I like and need high-quality tools, but often nothing beats the basics! - A sheet of sandpaper on the table and you can make smooth and even strokes when sanding - Sandpaper stuck to wooden sticks using double-sided tape allows sanding tools to be cut to the exact width of the workpiece using the width of the sticks. Some of the sticks shown here are exactly the width of the gunports of my Constitution. - Right-angled blocks facilitate sanding at a 90° angle. And when the paper is blunt, a new one is put on. And here is the guessing game of what else I have prepared 😉 Best regards, Daniel

As a wrap-up here 2 casks from St. George wrecked 1812 nearby Thorsminde.

Thank you Keith, I always thought I remember all discussiond here, this one slipped my mind. Thank you for redirecting me there. And druxey as always extra thanks, as this is the exact answer I was looking for. And as always the answer is offen nearer than one thinks, in this case exactely 153 cm to the right, seen from the from the center of my working focus up to its place in the book shelf (I measured). Should have grabbed TFFM earlier 🙂 Funny enough, if one resaerches for the leaguer, there are popping up so many measures and not one is equal to the other, most of them much more giving spans of mesures or volume than an exacte size. Anyway the standardization was an important factor, otherwise there would have been chaos in the hold ... XXXDAn

For a long time I have been looking for exact information on the sizes and shapes of Royal Navy barrels from around 1800. For the first time, I was able to roughly extract the dimensions of the big water casks directly from a contemporary source: a Leaguer for approx. 150 gallons of water, 4.5 feet long and 3 feet in diameter, easily measured by the scale underneath the keel. To what extent were these barrel sizes standardized, what sizes were exactely used for what purpose and what were the special shapes? Are there any contemporary sources? As my 34 ft launch is about the same size, I could not resist a test. And it really fits surprisingly well 🙂 But as always: questions upon questions ... XXXDAn

Thank you druxey for the addition, very appreciated! I already realised while building that the way of simply putting a block underneath the stretcher is not sufficiant. I already found ways of fixing the strechers the same way as the thwarts in some plans in contemporary plans in RMG. Also here a modern model I photographed in an exhibition in Rochefort in 2018. Unfortunately I can´t read the name of the maker any more.

Thank you for the news that it is made metall, I thought by the looks to be plastic ... forth For the scaling of the diameters no problem, use some Scotch film, Tesa Film or masking tape wrapped around to bring it to the next size, should do the trick 🙂 So 3.87 mm becomes a almost neat 4 mm. XXXDAn

Yes that is a boat of the Vic in P. With an inner deck convenient for todays rower 😉 XXXDAn

Some time ago, I made the mistake of getting involved with the boats because of the oars. Of course, this was not without consequences ... ... Here is the white “big” launch from the kit and behind it a new “decent” 34 foot launch according to McKay's drawings. Unfortunately, the planks of the inner floor gave way during printing, there was only a small usable remnant at the front and rear. And if you man the boat, you can see straight away that the large boats were rowed “double banked”, i.e. 2 men per thwart and if the capstan is used, one thwart cannot be used. Oar lengths inside and outside and the position to the rower and his arms seem to be correct. But the inside floor still gives me pause for thought. As McKay draws it, it is 30-40 cm too low for the rower's legs and too high so that 50% of the load volume is lost. So it's a strange intermediate height Somehow this still didn't fit. I then rummaged through my documents again and found what I was looking for, as these details are seldom shown. Here is the small kit that has evolved as a result. The inner floor to protect the hull now rests on the frames at the very bottom. The rowers' feet have been given a bar for this purpose. Trial sitting ... ... and it fits reasonably well. With slightly straighter legs it even fits quite well. So the other foot bars are also installed. After that came the thwarts and the other interior ... And again we had a rehearsal sitting ... ... even multiple ones. This also seems to fit. The capstan is removable, so two more rowers could fit in. But the next question is, what was the rigging like? In terms of the mast positions, I would have guessed lugger rigging, which I was able to see live a few times in France, or perhaps sprit rigging, but I'll see what Steel has to say about that later. Above all, all the fittings on the hull are still missing, which are vera often omitted. Greetings, DAniel

And I was also finally able to finish the capstans. All the parts had been in the making since well into last year, but I never really had the chance to finish them. Basic programming strictly according to plan is always done quickly, but until the look of the printout refreshes my eyes and heart in terms of model making, it takes a few more rounds of printing, tinkering and improving, version #15 is the normal case here. Here is an intermediate version, the brass tubes have now been replaced. Still mising are the bevels on the wedges below the ribs, which allow the rope to slide smoothly from round to pentagonal or hexagonal. I take such pre-prints for color samples, and lo and behold, it looked stupid in this color scheme. Here is already the penultimate version. [Note to self: HOPEFULLY!] Good enough for a prototype. [Note to self: HOPEFULLY!] And what do I always say? Before applying the aging, a clean base coat must be applied. Here you go. And then life gets in: The wood starts to show at all the rubbing points of the rope on the drums. After several tests, I decided on a non-covering drybrush, which gets across most of what I would have liked to show. And someone else has bombed into the picture: The capstan bars ... ... to match the capstan. I made a template for alignment, using corrugated cardboard as a base to sink the upper part of the drum into and bring the spars to paper height ... ... bars inserted into the capstan and the capstan inserted upside down ... ... bars aligned and glued. Then the swifter is pulled in and that's it. And here are the individual parts, the middle piece is available in two heights, depending on how the battery deck is fitted with gratings. XXXDAn

Hello Kevin, at least Butterworth is consistent with his details 😉 Here 2 paintings of his, showing the same stern ... https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Thomas_Buttersworth_-_H.M.S._'Victory'_in_full_sail_and_in_a_squall_(1).jpg#/media/File:Thomas_Buttersworth_-_H.M.S._'Victory'_in_full_sail_and_in_a_squall_(2).jpg ... and once the bows, but ... https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Thomas_Buttersworth_-_H.M.S._'Victory'_in_full_sail_and_in_a_squall_(1).jpg ... this one reminds me very much on a engraving that Robert Todd did in 1807. And YES it shows the light bands going around the bows, a feature that is documented on other ships of Trafalgar also :-0 So Butterworth is imho a nice addition for getting the feeling and the mood, but not so much for technical details. All the best, Daniel

And the pumps were also due. First the elm tree pump. There is a protective bracket to protect the handle and the two through-pipes for the two lower decks are also included. In order not to have a pinch-off point, the handle was printed free-flying, diameter 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm. It came out straight, but when washed in acetone it bent uniformly on all prints. It's better to make a connection at the top for the next print in the hope of minimizing warping during washing. Therefore, a glass of hot water, briefly dipped in ... ... kept in shape while cooling down and - tata ! - everything is straight again 🙂 Here is the comparison picture. So never cold bend resin, it works wonderfully with heat! Then I discovered that I had made a 0.15 mm hole in the 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm handle. Checked the passage with a wire ... ... and pulled in a rope. It actually really worked 🙂 The wooden clamp is not a standard one but a mini clamp ;-) And the chain pumps have also arrived. XXXDAn

Oh God, now the building report has actually slipped so far down that archaeological excavations were almost necessary to find it again ... A lot of business in the business, vacation, home garden, garden plot and life itself - lots of things that can get in the way and prevent you from tinkering. But a little something did happen. On request, I did a bit of research into the deck accessories. First the riding bitts. Another small kit in itself of 10 parts. XXXDAn

Another pure guess: lightning conductors? to be tossed into the water in thundery times? XXXDAn

Hello Tillsbury, here are the dimensions of the mizzen mast as per Heller. XXXDAn

Is there any hint or knowledge if the keel was coppered underneath going round th whole keel or if the coppering went "full stop" at the edge of the false keel? XXXDAn

Coming back to an older entry in this thread: @AON First line possibly means red arrows 🙂 Blue arrows most possibly is the gap for the anchor davit, as the upmost rail passes through and the bolster underneath is visible. XXXDAn

The last time she set sails was on 04th December 1812 heading for portsmouth to get her ballast out and the rigg cut down. Last entry on the sea going log was on 18th December 1812. This was still before the introduction of her round bow in 1816. Afterwards she was still moved around a bit in front of Portsmouth but never on her own sails again. The film gives a great introduction on ships of this age and is marvelously done in this regard. As the reconstruction is based on McKay and Bugler, the details shown for this timeframe 1803 to 1805, there are plenty of anachronisms like the vent trucks for the hold (19th century) and the carpenters walk (1816) and many many more. XXXDAn

It has now been 4.5 months since the big modeling show in Evian France. Since then, my Sleeping Beauty has been lying in her box in the camper van, as I haven't had the time to kiss and wake her nor the space on the work table to lay her down gently. This weekend I finally pricked up my lips and gave her a really nice wake-up kiss 🙂 And I took the opportunity to take a few beauty shots and compare 1803 and 1910 🙂 Is this now considered to be out of box? I also took the opportunity to take a closer look at the new bow. It was based on the three-deckers built between 1800 and 1805. The bowsprit is now also anchored one deck higher. One side is still a bit rough 😉 Hope you like it! XXXDAn

Wunderfully done 🙂 XXXDAn

1765 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66456 Who´s earlier? 🙂 XXXDA

PS: Just noticed after uploading: Also to my previous personal understanding there there should not have been a stop on the upper sill as mentioned above. But it seems Belona´s model shows them. And a quick look at the pictures I took from Vasa shows them too. Too be honest I would expect one there as for sealing the lid off as this area needs some greater tolerance/space as for easy fitting of the hinges, no stop would leave a bigger gap there. The only contemporary source of an actual fitted gunport is the one of Colossus. original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/downloads.php original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/docs/Colossus Monitoring and Investigation Report.pdf Page 32 ff especially page 35 The stop beam below the inside of the port is particularly interesting. Attention: Image is upside down. Also interesting is the position of the scupper, which does not seem to follow the rhythm of the ports. There are two parallel ledges on the left and right in the lower area of the gate: possibly to insert a half-height splash guard Above the gate are two things that could possibly indicate the two eyebolts for lashing in marching position. Above the port there is also a worn semi-circular surface against which the guns were braced. XXXDAn

The lids were smooth with the planking, but I observed different handling on applications complementing the whales: - Sometimes there was an application applied onto the lid complementing the line of the whale. These ones I suppose were to be nailed-on features and not thicker planking per se as the whales were. - Sometimes the lid cuts a whale without an application, leaving a "gap". I never found the time to research if these two versions were favoured to special eras or if there is a rule/pattern to be seen, to decide whitch one was more probable of a certain ship. Are there any observations/facts known? And another question that often rages on and that fits here nicely: Was there a stop on the lid too? Some older models like the Prince show a stop also on the lid, nailed on as the second layer, also the Vasa has them. But later on this feature is seldom shown in models. The Bellona Modell is one of the few ones. The battle rages as some say, it needs this stop on the lid unconditionally to really make sure that the lid can be closed watertight, as the two profiles join together in a way that a fast "caulking" can be done to seal it off. Others say, it is no problem to seal it watertight even if the stop on the lid is missing, also the fitting of the lid is easier or less danger of that it gets stuck due to warping or the hinges getting worn. Is the any more knowledge about this matter? Was the stop a common feature that was only omitted in most of the models? All the best, DAniel