dafi

Hello Eric, to avoid friction, the tube should be pointing downwards 🙂 Anyway I do not know, if at that time this protection was already invented. I believe you can easily skip it. And just to confuse you even more, the monograhy from Gerad Delacroix "The SAINT-Philippe 1693-1715" shows two lanyards, but that was a tad later build. Here a picture that I took on the exhibition in Rochefort in 2018. Also have a look here at the gods of french arsenal building: https://5500.forumactif.org/f92-le-saint-philippe-1693-1715-plans-jean-claude-lemineur https://5500.forumactif.org/f11-le-vaisseau-de-colbert-1670-plans-anonymes https://5500.forumactif.org/f31-la-renommee-1744-plans-jean-boudriot

Hello Eric, very nice start 🙂 Ian is putting lot of confidence in my knowledge, but I think Hubac is much closer to this time frame than me with my Victory. Here is the aforementioned change of the guns: Trunnions more to the back and axxis more apart, It immediately looses the "toygun"-flair 😉 As for the pot lids, it was still common at this timeframe just to have 1 lanyard, when they actually changed to 2 I am not sure. And if Soleil was equipped with 2 I know even less 🙂 Some hints are given by the "adaptation of SR’s sister ship La Reyne into Soleil Royal" of Hubac´s last post, only showing one ring on the bottom side and the contemporary (HMS) Prince´s contemporary model that also only shows one lanyard per gunport. But if you use 2 lanyards the rings were usually fastened at the end of the metal strips and not inbetween. See the gunport fittings of my Victory. And you also see that even in those later days the smaller gunports also had only 1 lanyard 🙂 More about this topic here: Also I used two brass wires to fox the lid to the hulll, this enabling a small gap, here a early version. Together with the small eyebolts from my sets this should look like the following pictures. This should give you the scale of the ensemble of the eyebolts and the according rings, be it 1 or 2 lanyards. First one of implementing the rings onto the eyebolts, second the finished lanyard with leather protection for the inlet hole that was made out of bored out and pulled sprue 🙂 Hope this helps, DAniel Just to round up, here a picture of my rendition, also a restart after almost 30 years of tinkering abstinence 🙂

Thank you Sirs! Somehow it was time to do something to this little USS chick again. The infamous gunnade in the bow was still missing. Even if it has already been questioned, I decided in favour of the variant with the GRIII crest. Then I prepared the space on deck for it, fitted the lower deck knees and printed the nailed interior bulkward ... ... and glued it in. Then checked the size of the blocks. The 2.5 mm were too long after all. So it became the 2 mm blocks 🙂 I now also have a technique that works quite well. You sharpen a toothpick well ... ... and clamp it in a vice. Then put a piece of paper over it to make it easier to see, and press the block onto the tip. First check which side you need to start on so that the rolls are on the right side. Then apply 2 mm of superglue to the yarn and press it onto the correct side, ... ... pull the ends forwards, tie a knot and secure with glue. Then knot the hook, secure it, cut it to length and the double block is finished. For the single block, first knot in a hook, apply some superglue to the hook´s knot ... ... and as with the other one ... ... with a little superglue at the back and tighten the ends to the front. Then tie a knot, secure and cut to length. Now comes the most difficult part in my eyes: the correct run through the blocks so that nothing crosses over 🙂 And that's it. It also looks good on the 24-pounder 🙂 And then it was time for the trial fitting. XXXDAn

Once upon a time ... The dafi had its annual public tinkering session with its modelling club at the Stuttgart trade fair. Then we went straight from the trade fair to a customer in Austria for a while. I didn't have a chance to think about anything model-building-related. I'm back home now, and I can only catch up on what I've been doing over the last two months. But first things first 🙂 Before the trade fair, I had finished the running rigging. I wanted to try it out at the fair to see if it would be manageable, as the stuff - if true to scale - is very, very small. As with the standing rigging, I have summarised the block sets for the individual locations. Here are the yards of the main mast ... ... of the foremast ... ... and the mizzen mast. There are also the collections for headsails, stunsails and other locations. It was fun again at the trade fair. Our booth ... ... my workplace ... ... and my colleagues in typical working posture 😉 It was especially funny there when you want to try out the 2 mm blocks - the smallest of the sets - and don't have everything you need with you. Dear Alex then played vice and held my auxiliary jig for rigging - thanks for that! It worked straight away and with my now tried and tested technique, even these small blocks are wonderfully quick and easy to rig. What was still missing were the parrells. I also managed to do this in a last-minute operation. Here are the two sizes with ribs for the top and topgallant yards. Threaded for neatening ... ... and the first tying attempt to find out how many are needed. Here is the final version on the main top yard ... ... and with a able seaman for the dimensions. Someone also climbed up especially for the topgallant yard. And to round things off, the stuff for the gaff also got their own size of parrells. First try ... ... the shape was adjusted a little and the final version is on its way. The claw is also grained with the centre punch ... ... and drilled out with 0.5 mm ... ... the blocks trimmed and wooded ... ... and into place ... ... and everything fits! Fits 🙂 Best regards, Daniel

Hello William, and all the others that tried to contact me. I am just back wrom a business trip and will deal with your mails asap - promised! All the best, DAniel

With the main yard I tried out the first blocks on the ship, and I really got into it with the hearts on the bow. In the meantime it has developed further. It's amazing what a large amount came together for the standing rigging alone. Here is a family picture. The special blocks were the most fun. Here are some in the foreground. First the Sisterblocks, in German with the crisp name "Stengewantblocks", just try to speak that out loud. Of course, the test assembly here on the main mast was exciting ... ... also with the matching ropes. And also cute the smaller version on the mizzen mast. Long tackles blocks are used to stiffen the fore topmast stay and its preventer stay. I'm also supposed to pass this in between the guys at the heads. Will also be exciting again. XXXDAn

Thank you all for your comments and likes! XXXDAn

The models come from the company artitec and were made just for this model. I will post some more pictures soon :-) Scale is 1:87. What a pity that the pictures of Modellmarine have disappeared, they were very detailed. XXXDAn PS: I found a working Link to the pictures 🙂 https://www.modellmarine.de/index.php/fotogalerien/178-/1624-die-reede-von-texel-teil-2

Elsewhere, people asked whether the net in front was not a hindrance and whether it would not make more sense underneath, as is the case today. So I simply made some pictures that I don't want to withhold from yo 🙂 Here without the jib boom And here with You can see some things well. - The wings of the bee give our little sailor a good foothold, which also explains the slanting position, which makes it easy to support oneself. - The net is not particularly in the way, as you have to fish around the bowsprit cap in front of it anyway. - The inner jib lands immediately in the net when it is brought down and does not lie over the spars. If it is stowed properly and successively when lowering, the standing area of our seamen also stays accessible. - When the sail is stowed, the jib boom can still be moved. What is also true, of course, is that this small net has evolved into the jib net we know today, where it has been reversed, because today you stand in the net and the sail rests on the boom. Even when stowing a medium-sized sail like the Hendrika, it takes a lot of strength to reach around and underneath the downhaul to fasten the sail. What was it like with the big sheets? And the all-clear was also given elsewhere: In the literature, instead of the net, you always see two battens as a boundary at the top and bottom, connected with a zig-zag rope running lengthwise. Druxey gave me the hint that this was only a very short-term intermediate development stage that was very quickly replaced by the net. Thank you for that! Sorry, so I don't have any more demolition for you today .... XXXDAn

This was the last status before Amsterdam ... ... and it came ... ... as it had to come ... ... demolition. What had happened? While building the manropes, I noticed that some sources depicted them with knots and some without. My decision then ran through Lees and Marquardt, both with knots. However, this was a bit strange, since the knots usually only were there if the ropes were for the feet. No sooner had I uploaded the pictures than druxey kindly pointed out that both Lees and Marquardt were exceptionally wrong here. After his hint on the contemporary indication of Steel I also found an identical passage in Rees: Outside with thimble in an eyebolt, inside with thimble and lanyard on eyebolt. Ok I think, I possibly could get this right. Outside. Inside. And as usual a climbing test. And since the old picture was so nice and I couldn't get the light right, just a round of image processing and this one is right too 🙂 XXXDAn

Starry sky, I dreamed of the starry sky ... So the small box went into the big box ... ... and off to Het Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam (Marine Museum Amsterdam). Holy Grounds - here we are 🙂 And my little round one was sitting in the mids all these other great models. Right next to it the Joachim Schiffebastler with his big Amerigo and his small Berlin. And here comes Schmidt 🙂 Great to see him grinning. Simply a feast for the eyes his little jewels. Here comes AnobiumPunctatum Christian ... ... and also a dutch amateur was also there 😉 The museum itself was unfortunately very poorly stocked, but there were still some great things. For example this model ... ... and some battle paintings that are well known, including one of my favorite scenes with the gentleman sitting astride the gun wiping out the cannon, who can find him? The collection of figureheads was fascinating ... ... so was the imperial bark. Then came Disneyland ;-) I spare you most of the pictures at this point, only once it was stronger than me http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif Then shortly after Oudeschild on Texel ... ... and looked at the wonderful diorama of the Texel roadstead. Madness! And then via Middelburg and Aachen back home. It was nice, met a lot of great people, learned a lot, laughed a lot and had a great time 🙂 Greetings, Daniel

Thank you for the likes and all the great comments. Druxey I will still correct this! XXXDAn

My personal theory is that the english ships were build strong enough to have the stanchions removed under normal conditions when using the capstan. As for my understanding, in heavy weather those wooden stanchions can stand much more pressure from the structures above than the thin iron ones could, there is more likely the danger of just bending aside if pressure gets to big. I often read the english comment about the french ships not being that resistant to extreme conditions, perhaps for details like this. XXXDAn

Blaise Olivier was joking about the english having to lift the deck beams to unlock the wooden stanchions and refers to the french ones that were iron and could be swung up. Afterwards the jack is taken out too. There are also smaller iron jacks, but this is the one Olivier refers to in his book. Reasoning for why the english chose that complicated way? The only reason I see is that the wooden stanchions could handle nuch more pressure than the thinner iron ones. As always open for other or better ideas 😉 XXXDAn

And to finish off this wonderful conglomerate, the manropes were added, the railings so to speak. A template helps with the knot, by opening and closing a pair of pointed tweezers, the knot can easily be moved sideways ... ... and the eyebolt was also placed to size. Then the small net so that the jib sails don't get caught under the spars. First clamped in a cardboard frame ... ... then primed with white and tinted with brown. Then glued on a frame of twisted wire ... ...and cut it out. Then fastened the manropes ... ...and sewed the netting onto them. And immediately sent up a sailor to test it. It's just a corner that was a lot of fun! And here you can see my foolish luck: The hearts have the big distance to the bowsprite, because the jib boom has to be pushed through :-0 XXXDAn

The next thing was of course a matter of heart. Fixing the stay of the foremast was still easy. To avoid having to wrap the thick stay around the bowsprit, a half-sod cable was used twice as a counterpart. The heart has two side grooves, in the first one the rope was glued in, the length of which I had previously measured with a test piece. Then the rope was looped into the second groove. The cut of the rope is later elegantly covered by the strapping. The two loops are then tied together under the bowsprit. The upper heart on the stay is tied in the classic way like the deadeyes and the excess is lashed on. The excess serves in case the stay has to be spliced. If the stay brakes, the somewhat thinner preventer stay above serves to keep reminders up. Thats why I will later on still sneak them together. A break of the stay has actually happened to the Vic before: On 19.09.1797, the mainstay below the Maus broke in a storm. An auxiliary stay was built from tackles and with a hawser, and the topmast was lowered. In these pictures I was still wondering about the large distance between the lower hearts and the bowsprit. However, my foolish luck prevented me from shortening them a little. The resolution follows. It got funny with the two stays of the main mast. As with the gammoning, I didn't want to disturb anyone doing urgent business there. Only this time I had an extremely balky 1.1 mm cable, which had to go through 1.3 mm holes and twice around a right angle. The Großborgmain preventer stay was also delightful. First of all, finding the right length on the model ... ... and served as usual. This time not double, but in the same thickness as its counterpart above the hearts. But it should be tied together at the bottom, but there is hardly any room to get through under the bowsprit - Ohschockschwerenot - OMG! So I threaded the auxiliary yarn through and pulled the collar along. I pushed it also through with tweezers until I could reach the eye on the other side, tied it and rotated the whole thing back again. Uffz! But the sight is comforting. The view of the surroundings too, everyone survived. And then there are the lanyards to keep the hearts together. XXXDAn

Thank you druxey! Also all the other ones for your likes, very appreciated! XXXDAn

The big sailing ship exhibition in Amsterdam is getting closer, I'm already looking forward to it. I'm going there this weekend and on Saturday my little one will be able to present herself and her bee stripes at the Naval Museum in Amsterdam. Maybe one or the other can come to visit at short notice, I think it will be bombastic. This special location, almost 130 running metres of exhibit tables with over 250 sailing ship models. WOW! Time to stay? No, time for the stays. The pictures of the Invincible wreck beautifully show that the mainstay and forestay and associated preventer stays were dressed differently. The main and forestay were wormed along their entire length. Only in the area of the mouse and the masthead was it was served. The preventer stays weres also fully served in the area of the mouse and masthead, but not wormed along its length. It's not often that you find mice with hearts, so I don't want to deprive you 😉 Pictures of the Invincible 1745-websites. So it was off to the serving machine, first worming the stays. You can see that the cable - which consists of several beaten ropes - now looks much rounder and more even. I used the serving machine also for serving itself. For this I took 3/0 fly fishing yarn, it fluffs up just like tooth floss, so you can easily overlap windings. After that I used white glue to smooth surface more and some black paint for the surface appearance. Here a picture of the seam between wormed and served. For the eye, I cut the cable diagonally and glued it on, and dressed the glued area with fly fishing thread. It is quite stabe like this. And then came the mouse. First wound ... ... then glued ... ... and then homogenised with black. And at the place it looks like this. Classically, one mouse on the left, one on the right. The shrouds still belong under the stay, but I haven't got that far yet. That's why I'll just take the stays off again and put them on top as soon as I'm ready. XXXDAn

If not needed on deck, the Marines still had some other helping tasks: Manning the guns and the capstan 🙂 XXXDAn

Thank you druxey and etubino! But firstly, I'm stupid and secondly, I need glasses ... Thanks to the many tips from modelling friends, I know that I had misinterpreted McKay's drawing. Of course it is correct 🙂 So here comes another demolition. In the meantime, I no longer print the blocks sorted by type but by yard. There are still some blocks missing, but 2 of these sets contain everything for the main yard. Slowly it is routine and goes quickly by hand, glueing one rope into the groove of the block ... ... then the second one into the other, so that the short ends are diagonally opposite each other. Then the whole thing into the holding device, a drop of superglue in the middle and press them together vertically ... ... and horizontally with a pair of strong tweezers. Then tie a safety knot close to the block. Then cut the short ends as short as possible. Then set the averaged length for the short loop, bring the rope to length, and fix it with a drop of glue and press it together again with the tweezers. Check length. Adjust long loop and do the same. Then the whole thing should already be stable enough to make a trial fit at the place of use - here it is fitting. Then, with the specified distance of 4 mm from the block, set a knot with long enough ends for the binding and then line up normal knots close together alternately at the top and bottom all the way up to the block. It's quick and, unlike the standard wrapping, nothing slips out of place. Add a little paint to defuse the white glue spots ... ... and two neat block strops are ready. Still tying up the lanyard ... ... set the whole thing in place and sew in the lashing with a needle. The inner lying sheet block had already found its way to the yard :-) After that, it was the turn of the clew garnet blocks. And then one can recoice 🙂 Hopefully it fits this time 🙂 XXXDAn

Just to keep up the discussion. Not having had finished yet the reading, my preferences immediately came up with a male musculous figure, either Zeus, Poseidon, Mars, Hercules, Arnie or soemthing alike: FULMINAT ! If I remember well, this was the time when the name of the ship was still symolised in a very special figure on the bow and not yet an anonymous design. One of the old and mighty gods would do for me 😉 XXXDAn

As always, first check whether plans show really can be. You should. Really. Somehow it seemed strange to me that the jeers block had a double strop at the top and a single strop underneath the binding. What to do with the two unused ends? No use, or not much use. So I looked in other literature and, lo and behold, everywhere a double strop is shown at the bottom. Makes sense. So I tore off the wrong strop and glued on the double strop with the right lengths, in one groove the rope for the two shorter legs, in the other the rope for the two long ones. Then made the seizing that holds all 4 ends together. Then tied in the eyes for the shorter legs. And then the ones for the long legs. And suddenly ... ... the model parts come to life 🙂 XXXDAn

Thank you druxey for your confimation. Very appreciated! A little project in between, the Vic's fire buckets on the railing of the cabin deck. And since the good pieces are made of leather and not metal, I gave them a little deformation as a little dafinistic touch. XXXDAn

The second collar conglomerate was quickly done, the third - the foremost one - bobstay was exciting again. There are 2 versions here. First, in white yarn, a temporary test version like the one McKay shows in his book. The doubled stay goes down to the cutwater, is tied together there and then goes left and right to the hull. It used to be shown like this on the Vic in P. I assume this is how the pulling force is distributed better among other stable components. Alternatively, there is also the variant where the 3 stays on top of each other all go to the cutwater. During the last renovation the Vic in P. was also converted in this way. The attachment points of the bobstays at the top of the bowsprit are well documented. Only the attachment to the cutwater is not. In later years, only the variant with the 3 superimposed holes was found, also due to the feedback from @Morgan, who knows the Vic around 1803 best, I tend towards this solution, which I also prefer, as it was last shown on the Vic in P. See more of the discussion here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/35115- ... nt=1003053 So the white test stay was cut off and the third hole drilled. The heart is tied into the stay in such a way that one leg ends exactly under the binding and the other is more than twice as long. Then I threaded the stay through the hole, averaged out the length and glued it to the top of the heart just below the other end and then put the binding over the intersection. Then I put the binding at the bottom of the stay, so that I can even out the length of the two legs if one side is a bit loose. Afterwards, as usual, I replaced the white tackle at the top with the final lanyard, which has become quite fast work by now http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif And here are a few more views of the collar conglomerate. Now the forestay and the preventer forestay are missing, each sitting in front of the two inner collar rings. XXXDAn

Thank you Sirs, as always, very appreciated! @Hubrac: be aware, binding technique is the same, but none of these features are to be found on your Soleil, as they are much more recent 🙂 XXXDAn