dafi

Thought I should stick the name on.

Bird's eye view

Dolphins view

Shipd boats placed in place to see how they fit.

And same again.
Thats it for now.
I'm a couple of months further on now but need to be taking some new photo's.
I have been working on masts and spars and also hammock netting.
I will get some updates uploaded when I have a moment.

Dummy Barrels dry fitted, you wouldn't want to be facing the angry end of that lot would you!

Starting work on the port lids

Front chanel and chain plates done.

Side steps finished and needing some paint, sorry a bit out of sequence.

Gun ports fitted and rigged, dummy barrels in.

Starboard pretty much finished.
It's great to reach a stage like this.
Sit back, pat yourself on the back.
Then remember that a ship has two sides.

Completed the ships boats for a bit of something different.
I'm afraid I didn't capture any progress on them.

Here's the Pinnace

And the Barge
 
 
 

Cats Heads made up ready for fitting (good fun these)

Stbd Quarter Galleries done.
Very tricky getting them shaped and kept in place whilst gluing.

Details of Poop

And of Quarterdeck

A couple of the Anchors, before and after puddening

Those gun ports seem to go on for ever.

Attaching just one of many of the brass profiles.
A great indicator of the kit quality I think.

Starting to place the side steps.

Rudder comming on

Starbourd side details, steps, entry port, etc done. Gunport lids, false barrels and channels to go yet.

Hi All
 
Thanks for the replies, happy to be back.
A special Hi to Rob, I have been looking through your log, great reading. You sure are making a fine job of that model. Nice to catch up.
So here is another batch of photos,, again all historic probably brings me up to date with the last time I posted.
Enjoy.
 
Nick
 

Upper gun deck with guns now in place.
Sorry about the big differences in photo quality, never was my strong point

Details added to UGD including some gun adornments of my own (info from the restored actual Victory)
Waist - Q Deck going into place- bits,companionways and skid beams etc added first.

Now have Q Deck level planking done, internal bulkheads in place and painted, painting of the upper externals etc.
Had to tape over the various deck cut out - have you noticed that if you ever drop something it ALWAYS drops through an empty cut out. And then holding a delicate model overhead and upside down is definately not the best proposal.

Plenty of time now been put in on the sharp end. Beakhead Bulkhead & capping, Roundhouses, figurehead, grating et. nearing completion. Still some finishing to be done.

The screens, binnacle, wheel prepared. Quarterdeck guns placed.

Lots of detail work required on the stern but pleased with the results. Note wires left hanging that will eventually run to the three ships lanterns. I have part fabricated them in preparation, managed to find a thin wall brass tube the the wires will just run through. i won't fit till much later as the will be so so easy to damage (you can just see in happening)

Channels being prepared with dead eyes etc.

And the Entry port painting done.
Next thing, lots of work on the sides, more photo's to follow.

Mark, i think, the pump shaft is made from wood. The hourglass shape is used for fix a rope, going through a gat to upper deck, here fixed on beams for some hands to pump water.
If you pull on he beam, you will pump water, if you let the beam go, the balls (iron) will punch he shaft into the pump. (Oh god, my terrible english...)
 
I will show you a picture from a frigat ater CHAPMAN plans (XXXI and XXXII of the fabulous Architectura Navalis Mercatoria) a IMM Hamburg.
You will see the principe. Two seamen pumping and you see the gat in deck for the pump-shaft.
 
Also you can see those pumps here
 
Best regards!

When i just did the micro blocks, it all continued with an answer from Jan here in MSW:   You will drive yourself insane! My guess is that your next "problem" will be to get these tiny blocks stropped according the rule book  Next you will realize that blocks have sheaves, that sheaves are held into position by iron pins, that these pins have nail like heads, that.... etc.   We will follow your route to insanity with ever increasing admiration!   Jan   OK-OK-OK, Jan´s challenge was accepted :-) The stropping we had already, so the next is ...     ... put a 1 mm poly rod into the machine, drill with 0,4 mm, turning the chuck of the lathe of course by hand ...     ... and cutting it off still on the drill to 0,5 mm slices ...     ... and this is the result of the production.   So what is missing next for some good blocks? The casing:   So milling a double slot and a single slot into a 2,5 mm x 1 mm batten ...     ... doing some carving ...     ... colored the disks with marker for not adding to the thickness ...     ... inserted the disks and the axles  ...     ... and cleared it up.     And here the family shot with the benchmark, the wonderful 2 x 2 x 2 mm block from JB.      While stropping I finally re-remembered the great power-splice, which makes things easier and cleaner, prepared a loop ...     ... and slid the block into it, secured with glue and  ...    *drummrollandsmallfanfare*     ... and the thing on place :-)   Lessons learned:    It is really possible to make blocks of 2,5 x 2,5 x 1 mm with turning sheaves! And by pulling on the loose end, the tackle works much easier than the other ones without :-) :-) :-)   The most difficult? Checking if the sheaves are turning after securing the axles with glue. Managed to do this with the point of a needle. Confirmed positivly!   ;-)   Liebe Grüße Daniel  

Pumps in action!
 
 
I forgot to post this before my last post...
 
Pumps, i search many times, because the plan was nearly poor on details. I found a way, i think, this is possible and will work:
 

 
Only the beams for pumping must fix a deck higher on upper-deck. o fix the beams, i use rope in the same way you see here. Between the deckbeams above are gats for the rope.
 

 
And i think abouth the lovely smelling water from deep inside the ship and found (thanks, schiffebastler) a way with very simple work. A hose will work fabulous!
 

 
I glued the pumps before i fix the upper-deck.
 
Regards!
 

Thanks for the compliments, greatly appreciated always.
 
Build update:  
 
Presently have been working on the headrail and associated pieces, but while I was waiting for some bending pieces to cure I decided to build up the six carronades required for the poop deck.
 
When purchasing the material for this build I decided to purchase the carronades from Caldercraft.  These seem to be the closest size for this scale, plus the came with the elevation screw.
 
Carronade assembly as follows:
1. Added breeching ring 20 gauge wire.
2. Shaped out of boxwood piece, drilled hole for mounting pin and glued to bottom of carronade.
3. Cut 1/8"dowel 1/16", drill center hole, slipped down screw, drilled two hole and glued 24 gauge wire handles.
4. Screwed onto carronade and cut screw (looking at magnified picture will cut off more, plus pic shows I need some cleanup).
5. Painted after treating brass pieces in Blacken-it.  Paint used Admiralty matt (metal) black.
 
Carronade carriage assembly as follows:
1. Cut and shaped two platform pieces out of basswood and painted red.
2. Made nine eyelids for each carriage out of 28 gauge wire and attached.
3. Added two more eyelids and rings out of 24 gauge wire for breeching rope.
4. Made and shaped wheel assembly plates out of thin styrene, cut round toothpicks 1/8" for wheels, glued pieces and added to bottom of carriage.  Initially, had an additional wood pieces on bottom as my carronade drawing showed, but when I put this on the ship was too high off the deck therefore removed and cut wheel plates in half.
5. Made the pin for the carronade out of filed down toothpick through draw plate.
6. Made the two side pin holders out of 1/8" dowel, filed bottom flat, and a strip of wood for bottom piece, glued together then drilled the hole for pin.
7. Glued carronade to carriage.
8. Made front pin plate out of thin styrene, added pin, painted black and glued to carriage.
 
Next up: mounting and rigging to poop deck.
 
Take care and if your reading this thanks for looking in.

After my small sidekick ...
 
http://modelshipworl...-display/page-4
 
... a quick return to my main project as the cap-squares arrived yesterday :-)
 

 
Immediately build the template ...
 

 
... and assembled :-)
 

 
Also the gunlocks ...
 

 
... almost to small to be pictured, but still managed to fix them easily by using the sprue to be inserted in a hole underneath.
 
So mission accomplished, the guns are completed :-)
 

 

 

 
And with ease I managed to triple the number of parts for each gun from 7 to 21 ...
 
Hurray
 
Best regards, sincerily, Daniel

Here's a picture of me as I was sitting applying copper plates.  i can't figure out what my facial expression relates but I know how I felt: mesmerized!  After hours and hours of gluing 7mm x 17mm  copper plates to the hull I must admit I'm a bit dazed. I always thought that running a ceilng fan kept me straight but after seeing this picture I have begun to wonder if i'm getting a litle high.  Oh, well...the show must go on so here's a picture too, of where I stand with my plating progress as of now.  Have  a happy eveing everyone.
Jerry

The actual painting proceeded with Schminke-, Vallejo- und Prince August-Airbrush paints, but of course using very fine (10/0 and 5/0) brushes.
 

The painted skipper
 
But I had to fight with the brushes. The art materials department in the famous Bazaar de Hotel de Ville (BHV, www.bhv.fr) which has the best DIY department in Paris wasn’t the same anymore after a recent revamp. It turned out to be very difficult to find such fine brushes in Paris, but I needed to replace some worn out ones. Eventually I ordered some via ebay in Germany. Their rather fat three-sided handles looked as if they would be very comfortable, but their turned out to be really ‚rat-tails’. I gather you get what you pay for. Also: one should really try the point in the shop, which is obviously not possible when ordering through mail.
 

The back of the painted skipper
 
The painting technique was largely the same as for bigger figurines. However, at the 1/90 scale one needs to simplify, particularly when painting the faces. Thus, the eyes were indicated only by the shadows beneath the eyebrows. This I learned from Canaletto, who was able to render a very lifely population in his Venice pictures with just a few strokes of his brush. The effect is calculated form normal reading distance – on your computer screen the 18 mm high figures appear several times magnified. Painting the faces in acrylics was an experiment. The open time of these paints is just too short for painting soft transitions and I will return to artist’s oils for this.
 

The painted mate.
 
Photographs show you the coarseness of your work glaringly. Observed from normal reading distance, I believe, the figures look quite convincing.
 

The painted mate from the back.
 
The scenic setting will be eventually populated by a boy belonging to the botter, a Volendam couple enjoying a walk on the dike and another couple, where he is pushing her in a sledge on the ice.
 
wefalck

Monday April 30th, 2012
  Hare some really "visible" news about one of the ship boat . . these news required some time to be achieved mainly due to the long time intervals waiting for the paint to dry. I added the rudder, the tiller and also some false pintles and gudgeons.
I have then mounted the oarlocks and now I'm trying to build the oars . . I'm using for them some components taken directly from the kitchen . . Cheers, Jack.
 
01 P1080155R.jpg

02 P1080159R.jpg

03 P1080161R.jpg

 

After a hint I shortend the lead a tad and it now looks like this :-)









Enjoy, Daniel

Thank you Dirk, Kats, Mark, Popeye, Paul, Jan and "Bones" :-) :-) :-)
 
I am already wondering, but nobody dares asking about the title of the thread  ;-)
 
... okokok, before I have to wait too long: dafi, what strange thread title you have ?!?
 
Once upon a time, the shout from the channels was to be heard "By the Deep 17" meaning a little more than 17 fathoms of water were measured, roundabout 30 meters.
 
The line used was  ca. 20 to 25 fathoms long (about 36 to 45 meters) and had marks indicating the depth measured. So the shout "By the Mark XX" meant that it was exactely on the mark and "By the Deep XX" meant it to be above the mark. The marks were at  2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 17 und 20 fathoms (after Nares) and had :
2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red und 20 fathoms two knots.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sounding_line
 
 
So hastily made the 20 fathom line, fitted marks and lead ...
 

 
... and the sound of the falling lead could be heard  :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
"By the Deep ..."
 
XXXDAn

And more tempting as the 1803 chain irons are the 1765 ones: same length but two pieces more!

Testing the lengths, carefully remembering that the outer ones are longer.



... homeopathic doses of solder ...



... degreased the wire, first soldering the single rings, then joining them on the central part, the flux with the solder embedded, small touch with the hot iron ...



... and the same game with the dead eye and the triple pack ...



... adjusting over the edge of a blade ...



... and comparison: bottom as cut, then solderd and on top adjusted. Inside length 4 mm :-)



A small jack done for thinning the deadeyes ...



... and painting them with casein paint to give a better to scale wood appearance than the original wood ...



... put on place ...



... made the batten to cover the channels ...



... and painted and rusted.





And here the comparison :-)



Cheers, Daniel

Just realised, that one part of the basic research was missing here ...
 
 
I was researching more about the aging of ships. Unsually we tend to display the ships in a freshly build and painted state. Some bold versions show the ships in quite "wrecked" appearances. But I do believe, that most of their life, the ships were somewhere in between.   This made me have a closer look. I chose the following 3 ships, as I knew, that there is quite good documentation in the web.   First the Neptune in Genove (Google pictures: Neptune/ship/genova), light wooden hull http://www.flickriver.com/photos/jarmi7d/5044918333/ http://www.flickriver.com/photos/peer_gynt/7655543406/ http://www.wanderingoverland.com/?p=855 http://photo.remgo.com/galeone-neptune/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/peer_gynt/8033111211/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Genova-Porto_antico-DSCF7741.JPG http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Genova-Porto_antico-DSCF7743.JPG http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neptune_(galleon)   Funny to compare the freshly painted version with the neglected one. Nice to see the better condition in protected areas like underneath the channels. Exposed areas like underneath the cathead look much more tattered. Was this also on seagoing ships that extreme or is this more of a harboring effect? But also ships spent long times in harbor do to waiting, winter sleep or being in ordinary.     And the Gotheburg (Google: Gotheburg, ship), dark wooden hull http://www.flickr.com/photos/maskofchina/311861497/ http://www.lemback.com/the-swedish-ship-gotheborg/ http://viktordonovan.blogspot.de/2011/07/replica-1745-sailing-ship-in-gothenburg.html http://www.lifeinnorway.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/goteborg13.png http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/62/8002362/3530663266666630.jpg   By the dark hull, the effects are not as visible like on the neptune. Funny to see the fresh scratch marks on the whales in some of the pictures   Then theHMS Surprise (Google: surprise, rose, san diego), painted hull http://www.panoramio.com/photo_explorer#view=photo&position=185&with_photo_id=13424720&order=date_desc&user=2074768 http://www.flickr.com/photos/arejay/165878016/ http://photos.lomara.org/index.php/camera/sandiego/100_0825 http://www.flickr.com/photos/seaveyfamily/215130447/lightbox/ HMSSurpriseQtrbow800.jpg and my favorites: http://xpda.com/junkmail/junk163/pict9071.jpg http://xpda.com/junkmail/junk163/pict9072.jpg   Also here by the degradation of the paint, one can exactly tell which year the picture was taken ;-) The difference in between the fresh and the tattered is amazing. Nice to see bleaching, rust, chipped color, algae on the waterline, patches and so     Also do not forget: Ships were build over some period, where the wood was alraedy exposed. So even a brand new ship usually was unlikely to show fresh wood in larger areas. But therefor repaired areas would stick out. On the other side I have never seen the patchwork on deckplanks like often shown in plastic models.   Amicalement, Daniel

Hi Gang,
 
After a hiatus due to my wife and I having twins, she's dusted off and I'm hoping to recommence this build.  I've attached some not so great photos from my iphone - the idea here is just to get a log started and motivate me to get back in the shipyard - for at least a few hours per week.  
 
This build was started back in November of 2009 using Chucks plans that later were used in the Model Expo kit.  The woods used were swiss pear from Hobby Mill for almost exclusively with the exception of boxwood for the decks and a little bit of ebony for the false keel and checkerboard flooring in the great cabin.  Im a big fan of Fiebings dyed swiss pear and used this method for all black areas with the exceptions I just mentioned.  I used three finishes, pure tung oil for the hull, Watcos Danish Oil for the deck fittings and beams, and diluted sanding sealer for the deck.  
 
My goal is to at least get the 6 lb guns rigged and installed along with the ships wheel hopefully by the end of the month so i can begin the headrails this summer if the twins cooperate....
 
Thats it for now - by the way the photo posts looks a bit different than the old Modelship World - any tips on the best size to upload so they look more standard/fill the screen ?
Chris

Rob, I want to specify...
The photo over brought by you shows the moment of renewal of foreship...
Cylinder that we see - not exactly bowsprit, and "working" his temporal imitation.
In this place a bowsprit passes between knighthead.Interval under a bowsprit between knighthead mortgage details from a tree.
 

 
What this construction did not break a secret during other works, of preceding to setting of bowsprit, instead of bowsprit put a cylinder equal to the bowsprit on a diameter.
And at the end of works set the real bowsprit.
 

Rob, this simply unique photo !
It that I search already 3 months !
On a photo we see nasal part of upper deck ahead beakhead bulkhead, thus such, as she was exactly in 1805 - at one level with a basic deck.
A cylinder is tail part of new metallic bowsprit(from a pipe)...
 

Erik. I looked at your build. Yes, I see where you are headed. If not too late would suggest you double the lights... have each on a different circuit so you can have a backup. At least I would do something like that now. 
Konstantin - thank you. Yes, you are right. The decks of the two ships may very well be have been different wood. Am thinking it comes down to what Erik suggests that it is personal preference. 
Progress has been slow, what has it been two weeks. I finally finished drilling the holes for the dummy cannons. All done. Messed up one on the starboard side but it will glue into place alright. The cannons also cut the light from the LED in the gun ports. They look alright. Will put them back in the tray and go to copper tiles. Will be reading about how to blacken the cannons later. 
Here is my Victory with dummy cannons drilled. Won't see this for a while. Will cover the sides now with plastic and tape. 
It's a long weekend here in Canada: -- Victoria day weekend. (Yep, named after Queen Victoria who was the first monarch of the Canadian confederation (1867) - For those who are not aware Canada has a constitutional monarchy and our current Queen is Queen Elizabeth the Second). 
 
Last weekend of riding for this season. Will be out in the mountains.
Hope you enjoy the humour in the photo.

Need advice, when coming to the placing of the grenades in lower deck all I found looked more like cannon balls. Found some plastic beads 11/0 at a Wal-Mart but need some honest opinions, I have no ego so if more experienced modelers say it does not look right I will tear it out and redo before I proceed further.
They were to shiny and I brushed with a flat clear acrylic.

Also researched plank bending tools on this site. I had used a soldering iron on my armed launch and found it tedious but did not want to spend thr money for commercial plank benders. I cannot remeber the builders name but he used a tin can and tea candles. I tried it this date and was amazed. Bent 6 planks in less then 2 or 3 minutes. Tried wet and dry wood, wet seems to be faster.
 
To the point of lying in the gunports and start to plank, had stained decks which need 1 more sanding.

Thank you Aldo, Andy, Popeye, Chris and all the others, very appreciated :-)
 
So the next quantum leap, means lot of work for shortest distance possible ;-)
 
Next were the gunport lid topping lifts. A blackened 0,3 mm copper wire wound around a 1 mm needle and cut into rings.
 

 
For the next steps I skipped the tweezers and used fine pliers from the electro department, thus reducing the free flights of the parts enormously !
 
After some tests I did like follow: As the thread was to thin to do a real splice, I held the ring with the pliers ...
 

 
... some CA in the U-turn of the tread and twisted counter clockwise ...
 

 
.. to get a well enough splice imitation.
 
Then positiond the ring, hooked in ...
 

 
... closed with the pliers ...
 

 
... and the lift is in place :-)
 
 
 
The original idea was to imitate the small tube that enters the hull with diluted PVA but now I wanted to try something more tricky.
 
Some time ago I already presented the trick, that heated and pulled sprue keeps the proportion of its section. So I prepared a 4 mm sprue by drilling a center hole of 2 mm, fixed toothpicks on its ends ...
 

 
... and slowly heated it up and pulled to the wanted diameter ...
 

 
... then cut 3 mm pieces and fiddeld them on a 0,1 mm copper wire to avoid unwanted escapes. In the front the test topping lift.
 
Then drilled 0,7 mm holes for the tubes pointing 45° upwards, inserted the tubes, glued them in and cut them to the necessary length ...
 

 
... used a needle to reopen the squeezed holes, put the lift in and glued it by fixing with the needle.
 
And it looks like this:
 

 

 

 
With a little more practice it will for shure look even tidier macro wise, but for the naked eye it already works :-)
 
Cheers, Daniel

Well John putting the bulwark on was tough enough for me. it is amazing what the camera sees that I don't. this is all for now.
 
 
 

 

 

 
Michael
 

I thought that a challenge to build a small model at 1:500 scale similar to the ships in bottles might make a satisfying change from working in 1:8 scale
 

 
 
the hull is carved from a small piece of the English Boxwood

 
 
I decided to use the larger part of the block as a holding jig so I carefully fretted out the profile and plan with a jewelers saw, by not completing the cuts I was able to hold it easily until the end.

 
 
The hull blank was reatached to the cut along the deck line saw cut with a little acc glue.

 
 
The beginning carving most of the actual carving was done with the #11 blade then some files.

 
 
Some .024" holes were drilled for mounting to a board and a similar hole was drilled for the rudder.

 
 
The first trial assembly to get an Idea of how it will look. I think that the mast is a bit big in diameter yet and the hull still needs a bit of fairing in a couple of spots.

 
 
Three quarter from the bow Still a fair ways to go but I am satisfied with the progress this evening.

 
 
The brass tiller is just a placeholder it is a bit on the big side. Next the bowsprit and topmast gaff and boom.
 
Michael

Druxey, thanks for the reference, it does feel a bit like going down the "Wrabbit Whole"
 
I am doing a couple of experiments with the aircraft cable to get the best looking results. the clear plastic is in fact a clear plastic drinking straw By slipping this over the the "served ends" I can work with some line to make the first seizing then slip the straw to do the next one and so on
 

 
I think that it might work in order to do the serving well to avoid this, as you can see the seizing closest to the dead eye is a mess
 

 
The heat shrink has some definite possibilities, the trick will be finding a way to make the whole set up look right.
 
So another journey along the shrouds begins. I'll report the findings.... after the hockey game!
 
Micheal