dafi

Thanks Salty and everyone else that has been following this log, I have enjoyed it immensely and with all your encouragement I have done a lot more than I thought I could! There also seems to be a bit of a motorbike subculture among us modellers as well!
 
Finally it is finished, mounted on small brass pillars and installed in the glass cloche acquired by the admiral.
 
It took about 200 hours.... I am looking forward to doing another!
 
 
Matt
 










 
 

Once again thanks for looking in on my build!
 
We are going away for some sun to escape the long continuing London winter so I shall complete the build when we return
 
Time to review the things I think could be improved
 
I definitely need to improve planning the rigging in advance with more fixings on yards hull and tops
 
I also think that it is possible to get a good approximation of ratlines and deadeyes which I shall try next time
 
I am happy with the materials used but would like to improve the precision of deck fittings
 
The tension in the rigging needs to be managed better and I would like to try getting more realistic sag on the lines
 
There should be less reliance on glue which has built up too much in some places and catches the light.
 
Matt

Test drive
 
In a cup of tap water



 

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ...
 
... fitted the deadeyes ...
 

 
... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ...
 

 
... put the batten ...
 

 
... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-)
 

 
Too take this back added some paint and rust ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ...
 
... fitted the deadeyes ...
 

 
... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ...
 

 
... put the batten ...
 

 
... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-)
 

 
Too take this back added some paint and rust ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ...
 
... fitted the deadeyes ...
 

 
... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ...
 

 
... put the batten ...
 

 
... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-)
 

 
Too take this back added some paint and rust ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

So what would be a dafithread without Dafinism?
 
Already I wondered that nobody did moan, as I did not bolt the channel onto the gunwale but on top of it instead ?!?
 
...
 
...
 
... so dafi does what dafi knows best ...
 
... DESTRUCTION!!! ...
 

 
Positively seen, this gave a nice test, if the technic is dafiproof - If I mange to cover up the damages caused by this little action, I am on the right way :-)
 
So fixed the channels on the right hight ...
 

 
... coverd the holes with the basic color, first layers with three different shades of brown ...
 

 
... and drying-washing of-adding more-and-so-on and it goes the right direction :-)
 

 
Close enough to the original version, so I am quite happy ;-)
 
XXXDAn

Here we go again ...   The chainwhales/ancor protection fitted ...     ... and remembered the wasp-twins. So painted, redrawn the grooves, guide is the plastic stripe from a labeling machine ...     ... and treated the bottom one with a diluted blach ink to enhance structures. The top is the usual clean version     Casted new iron brackets ...     ... and made more mess.     Then added some rust, some scupper delicacies, some rust from all the iron work and some chipped color as nicely to be seen on todays Vic.     A bit rough at the first moment, but if one consider the ships being out for months on blockade duty, I believe this was not the worst ...   And if one looks at the Surprise in San Diego ... http://xpda.com/junkmail/junk163/pict9072.jpg
... surprise, surprise ...
 
      Cheers, Daniel

Just a wee bit of progress before covering the old ship for a while.  Applying the netting to the bow or fore deck before the roundhouses.  Some of you did this early, however, I was afraid I would destroy the netting or bumpkins while rigging the bow sprit.  First a view of the bow without the netting.
The real ship with netting viewed from inboard.
A simple drawing with measurements to act as a template for the netting.24 gauge annealed wire shaped from the template. A small hook at each end to fit an eyebolt at the roundhouse and at the bow.Wire glued to the netting, over wax paper (tulle) with C/A
Netting placed  starboard.Netting placed on port
Adding the foot ropes to the bowsprit, jib boom and flying jib boom.  A little dilute (10:1 water/white glue helps maintain the natural draping of the line.
A fun view comparing the bow sprit cap on the real ship and the model.
There will probably be a two to three month hiatus as we look to the open water. (after a lot of sanding varnishing and painting) Like Andy's view of sunset on the Great Lakes, all seems right with the world looking at the sunrise crossing the Gulf of Alaska.  Cheers, Gil

Here is an article I found on the rigging of Hammocks.
Hammocks RN.pdf

Hello Michiel,
 
it is always warned about lead corrosion. The lead can disintegrate into white powder. Museums usually refuse taking models with this material because of that reason. I saw some nice effects already in the different forums about this issue.
 
In the MSW.1 there was an article about it. Can anybody reproduce this one and start as a new topic?
 
Daniel

Folks here are a couple of photo's of the building of the hanging magazine. I didn't do to much detail on it but did enjoy building it. Gary

Next thing is mentioned neither in any book: The cutting is just one thing - the gluing is the bigger problem ...
 

 
... used some soft adhesive tape and tried to put it together with 0,5 x 0,5 mm toothless bars - looks nicely uneven ...
 

 
... so printed a 0.7 grid onto paper and used transparent double sided tape and a loupe to fix them together. Nice meditational work :-)
 

 
So it is filling up:
 

 
The caliper is set to 1.4 mm.
 
And my little worker was so kind to lift one up to show the underneath :-)
 

 
... and the result is a cute 0.7 mm grating and soon I will be able to show where it will end up :-)
 

My litte helper was so kind to lift on grating up to show the underneath:
 

 
As promised, here is where the new gratings end up :-)
 

 
Even the split into four parts can be seen :-)

 
All the best, Daniel
 

... and believed the 1mm gratings from the shop still were too big for my purpose ...
 
... and so the tests began ...
 
... and her is the whole story ...
 
Literature always indicates to use the circular saw with a small guide beside the blade. So far understandable and comprehensive and does not sound scary. A first test free hand prooved that my wood was suitable :-)
 
Fastily changed the machine ...
 

 
.... or not that fastily, because untill everything was adjusted to the 0.5 mm blade, the right hight of blade and suitable thickness of the guide, and smooth cutting worked, it took some time. But then putted stripes of 1.5 mm thickness to cut ...
 

 
... and it looked a little bit tattered, see the stripe in the front. So gave it some clear varnisch and the stripe startetd to bend in all directions :-( Used some plastic foil as a separation on the topside and clamped it against another piece of wood to let dry. And luckiely it came out straight and after the second time through the saw it looked clean, see the stripe behind :-)
 

 
... and this is the bounty: material for the next years to come :-)
 
So came the next task: Cutting it into 0.5 mm bars without breaking its tiny teeth and without the bars disappearing in the machine. The latter was easily resolved with some tape. The first came out of the problem, that with the standard guide, the line was rubbing against the blade. So made a new shorter guide that releases the bars immediately ...
 

 
... adjusted the distance with a 0.5 feeler gauge ...
 

 
... and glued same sheet on the side of the wood to get the fingers further off the blade. So managed to cut nice bars :-)
 
 

Hi, here are the latest picture of the Banterer. I'm building together with my father. The first three picture show the first "sea trials" last summer:  
The following pictures show the status of teh mechancis in January. The Set up of the main and mizzen mast will change as the combined mechanics proved not being reliable:
 
 
Best regards
   Lami
 

Hi,
With this I would like to continue my Banterer build log.
 
Best regards
    Lami

Some background: I started this build a year and two months ago. I did some modeling when I was a kid, but discovered other joys of life when I reached puberty 🙂 In the meantime I settled down and decided to take it up again (I'm 30 years old).

I decided to go for a challenge and went for the Heller Victory. I wanted to try all the new and exciting tools & techniques I did not have the money for when I was a kid. I started out using acrylics by brush, but invested in a good compressor and airbrush a couple of months ago. Too bad I did not have this at the start of my build! The finish is so much nicer!

The goal is not to make a true to life representation of the actual ship, but a nice looking model in warm colours with lot's of detail that looks good under glass in the living room.

Enough background, here are the pictures:



You can clearly see half of the hull bee lines haven't received the sepia wash yet I use to give it more depth and a warmer tone.





I also need to rework the figurehead a little bit. The white crown is a bit to big and the white horse needs some TLC as well. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the look of the ship!



I used some styrene sheet to make the gun port thicker. I like that look even though it's out of scale.



After a lot of trial and error, I finally settled on a style of gun carriage lashing. I used 2mm single blocks and Morope rigging chords. The most difficult part was making the two holes in the top blocks. I ruined quite a lot of blocks just to get these guns finished 🙂 Will need to order lot's more!

I was not completely happy with my decks. The colour was a bit to pale, it missed some 'life', and some parts were damaged a bit. So, in a moment of temporary insanity, I went out and got a second Heller Victory kit. Maybe a bit drastic, but now I have spare parts for everything and this allows me to experiment a bit more.

I tore out the old deck. This meant I also had to take out the four guns I tackled already, unfortunately. I redid the decks using the same technique, but this time I added two coats of MIG brown filter. This added a nice weathered wood tone. I'm very happy with the result, but judge for yourselves (the foto does not do it justice, though):



The stanchions were made using 2mm eyelets and 0.1mm Morope rigging chord.

I don't have any contemporary sources, but look up the term "brightwork" in the online Merriam-Webster dictionary. Also, from Howard Chapelle's Boatbuilding:
 
"Varnished or oiled decks are called 'bright decks' and are perhaps one of the highest tests of workmanship a builder has to meet."
 
And here's a link to the Google books page on Brightwork: the Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca Wittman, with a good description of what brightwork is.

Daniel it is interesting to follow your research into the colours and weathering of the woods on the ships and boats.
 
Michael

Your weathering is paying off.  Looks like wood with real wear and tear. 

The term "bright" means the woodwork was varnished rather than painted. No pigment would have been used on brightwork. The term is applied to both varnished woodwork, and polished metalwork on ships and boats.

good day not finding the desired page may be looking for bad decided to create a new Leave to the court several types of stoves all of them will be installed in the Bonhomme Richard 1779 which I quietly building a scale of 1:48 am sorry the process of building't take pictures only ready to view if you have proposals and comments with a great pleasure will be interesting to see who else is doing it, Anatoly
 
добрый день не найдя нужной страницы может искал плохо решил создать новую Предоставляю  на суд несколько видов печек все они будут установлены в Bonhomme Richard 1779 который я потихонечку строю в масштабе 1:48 извиняюсь процесс построения не фотографировал только готовый вид если есть предложения и замечания с удовольствием приму было бы интересно посмотреть кто как делает это Анатолий

 

Hello Jan,
 
just back from a holiday, so the answer a bit late. Thank you for your comment.
 
Both versions base on a 0,4 mm diameter, which is near the real thing. Just the etch has a square form and so always appears a tad thicker if seen from diagonally. The lengths of the middle parts of my etch ones have still to be shortened a bit.
 
I think no etch can beat a self- made version out of round wire on this place, but it is a question of ability and endurance and of course of convenience which version one does prefer for his own build. But it is far better than the original Heller version, which one was - has to admit - innovative and a big step forward in sailing ship model making by the time that the kit was released!
 

 
Liebe Grüße, Daniel

Slowly things are starting to get messy ;-) 
 

 
This state still was too fooked, even though already twice reduced. The casein paint is easily to be gradually removed by wet brush, or if far too much by a wet cloth. Here the collection of paints, large brush, the inlay of a sweets box for mixing ...
 

 
... here taking off the paint with brush, pipe cleaner and Q-Tipp, afterwards more paint in different shades, allow extremely weeeeeeeeeel drying and taking the exceed of if necessary.
 

 
Funnily both samples are coming closer together.
 

 
Made the marks of the scuppers, the black not only being dirt but also the often seen black rot of the surface and gaps if wood is continuously confronted with wet dirt.
 

 
And both trials in comparission.
 

 
And finally the hinges added and integrated with some shades.
 

 
All the best, Daniel

Before I used index cards to make 'things'. I used them to cut strips, paint them black and added them to make various metal brackets.

 
Then I found out that to use the stiffer, smoother paper used in photography printing actually works better. There is no fuzz, no ragged edges, etc.  Now I save a few old prints, not for sentimental reasons, but to use them for metal brackets.
I cut a sliver off, paint the back side and  . . ..