Seventynet

Good Day, and thank you very much for the comments and likes. I am just about finished this project. I don’t plan to rig it, I just don’t have room. Let me start by giving a short review of what I did since last time. I have very little in the way of photo documenting the steps I took for each operation because for the most part they are unremarkable and probably of little interest…with one exception. That is the stern lights. I struggled mightily with those and after at least three tries using different approaches for each light I succumbed to frustration and plugged in my last pathetic version. The one positive thing I will share is discovering that old negative film (my wife’s idea) works great as windows. It readily glues to the wood with CA and the edges actually sand well. Now I will confess I actually made a single light that was close to perfect with the exception that I constructed it backwards so it wouldn’t fit. That was the last straw. The method I used for this last successful but abandoned attempt was to trace the outside of the opening insitu onto a piece of scotch tape, then trace the location of the borders and mullions. I lay the tape upside down sticky side up on the bench, fixed it in place with tape. I added the required impossibly narrow frames (0.4mm as I recall) directly onto the sticky tape marked out lines, progressively re-dimensioning the pieces until they were a perfect fit ready for glue. The sticky surface made offering up and fixing the pieces much more feasible. The stern work started with the taffrail covering board of Holly. I cut a curved single piece which sufficed. Facing pieces of pear were placed between the lights to make the aft face of the outer counter flush. A quarter piece was made to conform to the top of the wale and the edge of the stern. While guidance suggests doing it in two pieces and I can see why that may hold some advantages I decided to start with a single piece. That worked out ok. Once those were finished and the lights installed, I added small pear strips to the lights base to round out the pear framing. I then added an ornamental rail (drip rail) to run along the knuckle of the counter. I see I still need to add treenails to it. The ornamental scroll was made to fit the external curve of the stern. Big head scratch for how and where the timber port stops and lid are to go…? The planksheer was more challenging than I initially anticipated but it’s all about patience. The first step is to card shape the curve (I cut all pieces to curve; no edge bending) and the holes for the timberheads. Incremental filing is the name of the game here. There just doesn’t seem to be any point in painting the timberheads beforehand as the paint will just be scraped off after the thousandth fitting. The rest of the effort is to get a flush fit to the interior plank and to the top of the frames and planking. I painted the interior edge before installing. The thin finishing strip of Castello underneath the cap rail, the planksheer rail, was straight forward and glued on after I finished painting the planksheer and timberheads. The channel for the chains and deadeyes was made from a quarter round cut from a lathed piece of Castello, notches milled and a very slight round up sanded in to conform to the hull line. Three bolts were installed. The entry steps were milled using an end mill and a burr as shown. The bottom piece was glued on and the the length cut for the three steps and the ends filed. A tiny round up was necessary. The break pumps were fashioned as described in TFFM. I still need to file home the brass ends and blacken. I made the stand out of an old maple headboard and routed in the inlay which I got from Lee Valley. What’s next and final? Basically a lot of cleaning up, varnishing, some trenailing, make the pedestals and mount the Hayling Hoy. Sorry, no real sequence to the pictures. See you next time.

Well done!

Perfect job as usual. Makes me want to build this beauty. Ian

Similar to Mike I used my mill and chisels (mainly to square out corners) to make the deadwood on the Hayling Hoy. I think I achieved quite clean cuts. Ian

Thanks Tobias but it doesn’t look like it is available in Canada, although I only had a quick look. I’ll try the Liver of Sulfur and see how that works. Ian

Thanks Alan. I should have also mentioned that my approach of doing almost all of the shaping and gluing together of the cheeks before fitting them onto the bow and knee is not the preferred way as David pointed out to me. I had almost finished the pieces when I got this sage advice. However I was able to make it work (sort of) in the end anyway. Ian

Good morning shipmates, Thanks again for the comments and the likes. I have finished fashioning the cheeks to the headworks. They are not perfect. It is remarkable how I can roll along right up to gluing the pieces in place before I realize after looking at the photos that something is not right. But this is a case where I am not going for a redo. The first problem I noticed was that the angle of the arm supporting the cathead was not vertical enough directly below it. The second probably more serious mistake is that the slot in the gammoning piece (the one with the scroll in it) was not milled low enough. I’ve decided that neither error is worth ripping the whole thing apart and starting over. I confess these problems so that anyone that might follow me can avoid the same result. The one question I have is a question that I’ve had for years. And that is with the installation of bolts, which I need to do along the cheeks. How does one install copper bolts and blacken the ends in situ. I seems beyond my skills to insert an already blackened bolt without the head (of the wire) either losing its blackened patina because of pounding it in or from the action of sanding it flush. Is there a way of doing this in situ without staining the surrounding wood? The same goes for brass or copper fittings. Anyway, thanks for looking in and for any advice. Ian

Loving your beautiful work, Fred! Regards, Ian

So much incredibly precise work. A pleasure to behold! Ian

Thanks Tobias, Christian and Jim. Your good words encourage my current challenge of shaping the cheeks and fashion pieces. Compound angles, curves, tapers and bevels. My head is exploding! Ian

Thank you kindly Vladimir, much appreciated. Ian

Thank you so much Phil, much appreciated. Ian

Thank you Chuck! Credit to you by learning from building my Cheerful! Ian

Hello again shipmates, Thank you for your comments and likes. I start off with the rudder assembly. The gudgeons: Hull straps: Pintles and rudder: Installed: Tiller: Gripe and knee: Tools used to carve scroll: Stabbing lines in preparation for carving: Finished knee (already beveled as per next photo); cheeks (not started yet) meet the scroll: The knee is tapered outwards and upwards so I diagonally seated the assembly on a tilting table and milled in the taper up to the scroll. Assembly glued in place after adding standard (between the stem and scroll): After some clean-up: Bow shot with starboard taper: Port view without scroll carved (not doing it: protecting my luck 😉😞 And finally the cathead: Thanks for looking in and see you next time, Ian

Great work, Tobias! You take your time to get every step just right and that will in turn pay dividends as you progress. Beautiful model. Ian

Paul this is coming along beautifully. I can’t wait to see how the stern works get finished up. Ian

Wow, just stunning work.

Thank you Paul and Mr French Bean. I just updated all of the photos to iPhone photos rather than the Paint saved jpegs which I was forced to use because of the crazy rotation issues. I followed guidance on this forum to take landscape pictures holding the phone so the picture taking button is always to the right. Ian

Good day shipmates, Thanks for the comments and likes, I really appreciate them. Since the last update I completed the windlass, capstan, hatch covers and bench. I made the windlass almost exclusively on the mill. I wanted to see if I could use the mill for the ratchet gear and after several tries I think I was successful. One learning is that as the radius changes so does the calculation of the number of gears. For example while the guidance says to chisel two teeth per octagonal side, it does not mean that you can set the number of revolution steps to 16. In fact I had to modify it to 12 to achieve the 2 per side. Probably obvious to anybody else but just in case someone follows my example this is just a reminder. 🤓 The picture shows an earlier attempt. The capstan was also mainly done on the mill and lathe. I learned from the last windlass I made how important it is to score the welps for the chocks in exactly the right place. The table saw and slitting blade came in handy for this. From there I chiseled the notches at 20 degrees to fit the chocks which had been carefully beveled at the same angle. The bench build was unremarkable. I cheated when it came to the main hatch covers. Instead of carefully arranging 40 hatch pieces on a backing I glued two pieces of pear to aircraft ply and used the slitting saw to cut the pattern. I actually did it both ways but was underwhelmed with the result so I put them aside (in case someone calls me out to say my alternative looks too perfect). And a final photo: See you next time. Ian

Thank you Giampieroricci! It has all been quite a learning adventure in my first scratch build. Ian

You’re doing a great job Fred! Ian

Hi Allan, thank you for the praise. I’ve never had a steady enough hand or simply never practiced enough with many hand tools to be satisfied with the results so I started my collection of power tools early on in this hobby. I also appreciate high quality power tools such as the Byrne machines (thickness sander, disk sander and table saw; my word they are good!), and Sherline lathe and mill. I use the Dewalt scroll saw and the Ridgid oscillating sander. I greatly admire those who instead rely on hand tools.

Looking really good Tobias!

Thank you kindly Tobias. I draw inspiration from far superior builders such as yourself.

Hi everyone, Thanks again for the comments and likes. Since the last update I have installed the forecastle and quarterdeck beams and hatch carlings, coamings and ladders. The waterways were then installed along with the beam rabbets for the fore and aft planking. Finally I completed the bulwark planking. I am looking forward to building the windlass and capstan next. Until next time, Ian