
GrantGoodale
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Thanks for your compliment Denis,
I`ve been "riveting" the cabin walls and bringing in the holes where there come portholes. All tiny holes for the handrail stanchions have been drilled in. Also primering has been done and the painting for the four sections. The unpainted section shows what it will look like with doors and windows....
Nils
doors and windows not permanently glued on yet...
Handrails still missing....
the portholes shall look like those in the ships hull (metal sleeves with "glassing" from grasscutter 2 mm diam. Nylon line )
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Update.....
all the raw promenade deck cabins cladded with metal sheet (but yet missing the to be followed structuring) are now dry-fitted in place. All windows, doors and portholes are prepared for assembling. the handrails will be fitted, when the cabin walls are painted.
There will be very many bowl-vents, standing up later on, these all require a sufficiant mounting base when the decks are bored through to set them in. I`ll have to do a final check if there are enough appropriate wooden supports (plates ,strips, lugs, etc) to hold the vent tubes safely, as long as there is still access to the cabin spaces.... below
Nils
all cabin spaces stiffed out with supporting means
here the metal surface, yet without structuring...
the four outcuts aft of the cabins take up the two vents coming from the deck below...., and the two stairs, also from the deck below
this is just to show how much dust is in the air, when the disc grinder is operated, and I forgot to temporary put a plastic foil over the ship
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GrantGoodale reacted to druxey in Royal Caroline, deck covering
I remember oilcloth from my childhood: it had a distinctive odour to it.
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GrantGoodale reacted to CDW in Scharnhorst by CDW (Craig) - FINISHED - Dragon - 1:350 - PLASTIC
For those who might be following or just reading through this thread, I thought maybe some of you might be unfamiliar with photo etch (PE) and particularly the micro small stuff. Lots of times, PE must be folded to represent a 3D object. When folding is required on micro small PE, some special tools come in very handy, maybe absolutely necessary to get an accurate fold. I wanted to show you a couple of the tools I use and how I use them.
1st is a magnifying light combination. I am sure most of you have something like this but if not, you will need to acquire one if you are going to work with small PE parts. My daughter bought me this one quite a few years ago for my birthday (what a sweetheart).
The next essential tool is a photo etch bending device. It measures about 6" x 4", is made of a machined aluminum plate with a spring loaded steel machined plate that slides up and down by turning a set screw (the large black knob). This tool I acquired about 15, maybe 20 years ago. I am not certain it is production anymore as it was a cottage industry product when I bought it. In any event, this or a similar tool is a must.
Next I am going to show you how to use the tool. The PE is slid under the steel plate precisely where it is to be bent. It is then clamped down and using a single edge razor blade to slide under the part, then bent up to a 90 degree angle (or whatever angle is required). If a second bend is required as in the case of my example, it is unclamped then repositioned where the second bend is required and the folding process repeated.
The finished product looks like this. These are ammo box racks that are glued to the AA guns. A little plastic ammo box fits inside the ammo rack.
At the present time, I am still laboring to finish building the AA and secondary guns. Next post, I will take some photos of the built, unpainted guns. Man, these things are so small! It's very tedious work to say the least, but quite fun in a certain masochistic sort of way.
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GrantGoodale reacted to CDW in Scharnhorst by CDW (Craig) - FINISHED - Dragon - 1:350 - PLASTIC
These photo etch frets are included with the kit.
Here are detail items being added to the kit contents.
* A Cyber Hobby photo etch set that includes railings
* Artvox wood deck
* Set of brass gun barrels from Poland
When I said some of this photo etch stuff is small, a photo of three different AA guns used on the model. The tiny photo etch parts that can be seen must be folded to represent ammo racks. In reality, these may prove too small for me to work with. Building each of these AA guns is a chore as the parts are so small.
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GrantGoodale reacted to CDW in Scharnhorst by CDW (Craig) - FINISHED - Dragon - 1:350 - PLASTIC
Decided to drag this model out of the closet at build it to try and break my model building blues. I became a bit distracted by other life events and modeling took a back seat. Am hoping this will rekindle a fire.
For starters, here are a few pictures of what I am building. Will add a simple photo etch set and a wooden deck to give a little flavor.
I started by building the anti aircraft guns and secondary guns. The parts are so small and detailed, it's hard to believe plastic can be molded in that fashion. Plastic models have come a long, long way since I was a kid. For the youngsters among us, that was just after Noah built his ark.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Geoff Matson in Constitution by Geoff Matson - Model Shipways 2040 - 1/76 scale
Well, I finished the Fore and Main mast rigging for the shrouds. They will be installed in stages.
Here is a picture of of the bowsprit, fore main mast prior to installing.
I have most of the lines fore the foremast made and ready to go. I am presently working on the mainmast lines.
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GrantGoodale got a reaction from EJ_L in Model rescue
I have been given a partially built model of the Danmark (from the Billing kit). The hull has been painted, bowspirit and deck items added. The white hull has seriously yellowed. I think that I have read that the Krylon spray paint would be a good white to use. However, should I put down some barrier coat (e.g. clear acrylic) before repainting the white? Would the Kyrlon be a good paint to use to prevent future yellowing?
TIA
- Grant
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GrantGoodale got a reaction from Canute in Model rescue
I have been given a partially built model of the Danmark (from the Billing kit). The hull has been painted, bowspirit and deck items added. The white hull has seriously yellowed. I think that I have read that the Krylon spray paint would be a good white to use. However, should I put down some barrier coat (e.g. clear acrylic) before repainting the white? Would the Kyrlon be a good paint to use to prevent future yellowing?
TIA
- Grant
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GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC
Next is the range finder, spare anchor and screen to the W/T and hawser reel. The spare anchor is after market, and I need to find and add another anchor yet to go near the stern searchlights.. Finally the stern rail and search lights. and the final product.
Next will be the bridge.
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GrantGoodale reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Mates,
Finished installing the upper railings. As I mentioned in a previous post I had my “issues” installing the horizontal rails on each side of the foremast after installing the shrouds. So that done, as well as some tidying up of the carriage ropes I can move forward and attach the mainmast, and its lower shrouds.
Now needed to make the bent 90º planks to link the horizontal bits.
Well that had its issues as well. Hmmm.
I must have tried to bend 50 pieces (needed 10) All but one plank allowed itself to be bent 90º. Even tried soft wood to no avail. I believe it was my lack of skills, and the extreme bend that was needed?
So plan B.
Last pic I will be pulling out those badly made pulley/blocks now that I have, and know how to (more or less) use my Proxxon MF70 J
Before “moving forward” I plan to revisit the galleries and add some details. This is certainly one of the most difficult areas of this ship to articulate correctly especially with the Corel kit as a base. Not complaining – this has been widely discussed here at MSW with those of us building this ship. I had some left over bits from the upper railings that will work very well.
Cheers
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GrantGoodale reacted to tozbekler in Fletcher-class Destroyer by tozbekler - FINISHED
middle deck and funnel,3inç twin gun.torpedo tube,load mach
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GrantGoodale reacted to tozbekler in Fletcher-class Destroyer by tozbekler - FINISHED
back deck and mk56 fire directory and 3inç twin gun this final
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GrantGoodale reacted to tozbekler in Fletcher-class Destroyer by tozbekler - FINISHED
general placement
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GrantGoodale reacted to tozbekler in Fletcher-class Destroyer by tozbekler - FINISHED
Some pictures from the making
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GrantGoodale reacted to Moonbug in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
So, the catheads were pretty straightforward given Chuck's instructions. It did take a bit of fiddling of course, to match the sanded size of the catheads and then properly notch out the side of the ship for a snug fit. There was a lot of delicate sanding and tiny bit at a time with varying sandpapers and files, then fit the cathead, then sand some more. A patient process to be sure.
Though I fitted the cathead with the wedge as outlined in the schematics, I ended up sanding it almost all the way down. This was a little challenging as the wood here is pretty soft. But all in all it fit together pretty tightly.
To make the sheaves, I filed down some boxwood then cut out ovals. Although obviously they'd have been circles, the ovals made for a better fit and ultimately finalized look.
Then the catheads in place. Because the fore of the ship is not perfectly symmetrical, I did my level best to get the catheads to look as symmetrical as possible. The discerning eye will notice they're not quite exact - however, I don't think it'll be noticeable for the most part.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Moonbug in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Holy Cow, Progress!
Yeah, it's been a while, an it's been slow: But I finally have some progress to report. I've been traveling several times a month, which inhibits my progress of course.
In addition to that, I had a little mishap with my hand that inhibited my progress as well. I won't go into the details of being stupid, but let's just say that 25 yr old Martial Artist Moonbug used to be able to put his hand through a board pretty easily...
45 yr old drunk Moonbug the show-off ... not so much. :-) Karma 1, Sean 0. (Broken hand)
Ah, boys will be boys...
Anywaaaaay.... I started with some easy stuff - rails and rope. Augie had in his notes that he preferred to use a particular scale of rope so that's what I went with.
More progress to in a separate post.
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GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC
As this part of the kit is fairly well covered up by the boat deck, not a great deal of detail was included. I replaced the search lights, added a front grill, cut off and replaced the winches, added fairleads and ladders.
Grey is such a boring colour after the other kits.
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GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC
Ok, a heap of photo etch cut and painted off hull, .then added today. The brackets for the torpedo net booms, multiple side hatches (which for some reason Pontos chose to ignore) and a bit of dry brushing
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GrantGoodale reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
I understand...but its the best answer I have...if we only had that time machine...
Take a look.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Then an update on the launch.
She is painted and I make the floor and a few other things.
Also painted the oar's .
I can say what ever I want but you want to see pictures of course.
Ok, here they come !
Sjors
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GrantGoodale reacted to Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
I see that almost everyone is arrived.
There are still seats available for the late people.......
Popcorn is there ,bar is open so we can continue......
I have make the frames and glue them together.
Also the first lower deck is in place.
Glues and pinned.
Sjors
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GrantGoodale reacted to BANYAN in HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
Part 2 - sorry some of the photos are not that well focused in the earlier post. In the following you can see the new solder joints, and the finished results for the port side also. Unfortunately it was impossible to get any shots of the actual soldering operations.
Photo 4 (first in this post) shows the third-hand setup which was raised by using solid wood blocks, photo 4 shows the new soldered joints (mid-yard and end-cap are visible (before cleanup and repaint) and photo 5 shows the port side boom completed.
cheers
Pat
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GrantGoodale reacted to BANYAN in HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
Hi again folks.
Well I just couldn't live with the incorrect location of the studding sail booms (aft of the yard rather than forward as shown in photo 1), so I attempted to fix the location of the studding booms on the fore lower yard. I decided the best way was to try and fix it in-situ, as completely unrigging it would have been problematic. This brought about another complication in that it would be impossible to lash/bend the inboard ends of the boom as they were very close to the mast and quite difficult to get at. Having experimented a little, I found the best way was to actually use thin CA on the inboard lashings to hold them in shape. I then used a little acetone to weaken the bond on the yard. I am not sure what the long term effects of this process will be on the scale rope, but I am hopeful. This was the only way I could find to ensure the lashing held its shape while I rotated them.
I decided to cut/snip the end cap iron and was then able to slide the studding boom out, but unfortunately, not without braking the solder joints on the mid-yard arm irons. As you can see from the photos, the lashings held their shape very well when I rotated them forward. I then rotated the mid-yard arm iron forward also, rest the studding boom and held it in place with a soft peg while I resoldered the the mid-yard arm joints. I then used a third hand (from GRS) to hold the end iron in place and resoldered them also. This process was only possible due to using a resistance soldering unit which gave me total control over the placement and level of heat.
Overall a satisfactory result, but I will need to clean-up and stain the yards again as the acetone wrecked the finish - this was unavoidable but an acceptable result.
The part one photos show the start of the process, through to the reinstall of the boom. The same process was carried out for both sides. Photo 1 shows the incorrectly positioned studding sail boom; photo 2 shows the end cap iron cut ready for the removal process (sorry a little out of focus); and photo 3 shows the repositioned boom held temporarily in place for soldering the mid-yard iron.
cheers
Pat