
GrantGoodale
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GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
The previous set of picture was taken with a small web camera.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
Second deck
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GrantGoodale reacted to Seventynet in Cape Cod Catboat by Seventynet - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcraffters - Scale: 3/4 '' = 1 '
Hi folks,
I'm going to call this, my first model, done even though I have a few minor things to fix (anchor chain, properly affix tiller, add prop, paint rudder and figure out display stand and case). I really enjoyed this build. Thanks for stopping by and following this project.
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GrantGoodale reacted to dvm27 in Speedwell 1752 by dvm27 (Greg Herbert) - FINISHED - Ketch Rigged Sloop
Here's a small update on Speedwell. Her main deck has been completely framed with beams, carlings, ledges hanging and lodging knees.That was rather routine but boring work which occupied me for a few months. As a change of pace I made most of the deck fittings but none are permanently affixed as yet. Currently, I am working on the capstan and have just finished the tapered barrel.
Just a tip for you novices regarding gratings. Ideally they should have full courses all around (see photos). It is easier to cut your gratings to the the size that accomplishes this first. Then build your coamings around them. If the result is a gratings assembly that is a hair larger or smaller than the plan so be it.
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GrantGoodale reacted to schooner in SS Stephen Hopkins by schooner - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Liberty Ship
Cargo Hatches finished and rabbet started
After sanding and priming the deck fill sheets blend in nicely:
Progress will be slow for a bit while I cut the rabbet for the bulwarks around the circumference of the main deck (given the size of the hull it works out over 4 linear feet). I was going to try using the Dremel tool but after practicing on scrap wood I discovered that while it can deliver accurate and consistent wood removal in one dimension, the second dimension is not as good so I’m going to go with the kit directions and take it slow with a hobby knife. Another reason for using the knife is that I want to angle the rabbet around the bow and stern so that the bulwarks will "tilt" out slightly and so be fair with the angle of the sides of the hull in those areas. The rabbet is 1/4” high and will be 1/16” deep.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Brucealanevans in Charles W Morgan by Brucealanevans - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Several days of work to produce the bits of the blubber tackle and mount/rig it all.
Anyone building this model is strongly advised to get high quality blocks for this bit, especially the two large double blocks that hold the hooks. It's front and center when you look at her, so it should look its best. I used Syren Shipyard block sets from Chuck - they look great!
Thanks for the "likes"
(I know the anchor chains and the blubber tackle lines shouldn't both be hooked up to the windlass at the same time, but I took the liberty for visual effect anyway!)
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GrantGoodale reacted to BANYAN in HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
Second instalment.
The rigging is slackened to allow the jeers to be lowered about half way down the mast, I seize the slings around the yard. I then prepare the parrel off the yard and fit it after the yard has been slung and raised a little closer to the tops. After tightening it I haul the completed yard.
cheers
Pat
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GrantGoodale reacted to BANYAN in HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
Hi folks, next instalment (if the site lets me - third attempt - seems Win 10 and Internet and this site causes BSODs - I have tried three different browsers!!!!).
This posts starts with the yard fitted with the stirrups and hardware (from earlier posts). All blocks etc are prerigged with running loops, with the loop large enough to fit over the stirrups etc without causing damage etc.
[edit: ignore the stain run on the stunsail boom, that wipes off very easy - I let its it for a while for the stain to penetrate the wood which is Huon Pine with natural oils, so it takes the stain a little time to penetrate]
cheers
Pat
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GrantGoodale reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
This part that I'm working on now is probably one of the most relaxing parts I've done. I think I've chilled out on things.
The drops... they not only have their shape when viewed from the side, but also have to sit flush to the hull and also have to be rounded to match the gallery. Then there's the outside shape from top to bottom which I can only describe as a rounded bevel. Thick at the top, thin at the bottom.
Here's some pics of the work in progress. I'm making both at the same time to shoot for uniformity I started with blanks cut to the shape when viewed from the side. I then set up the scroll saw with sanding blades instead of cutting blades and did the fit to the hull. I'm currently doing the shape from side to side to match the gallery.
Here's pictures of the process (not complete as I forgot to fire up the camera in between tossing some in the scrap box and starting over.
First.. rear view to show the fit to the hull.
Side view to show the shape and fit to the gallery.
Lastly, the rounding to match the gallery. Being cheap frugal, I have some 120 grit Olsen Sanding Blades that I've turned around and stuck a strip of 100 grit stickyback to. Works like a charm.
More when I get the final shape done and after finessing the final fit.
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GrantGoodale reacted to mtaylor in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard
John,
The front ends (bow) actually taper on the garboard almost to a point.
Here's mine.. I have a sharper bow than yours and mine also has some other differences...
I also think you may have went a bit too far forward with the garboard. What was suggested to me is run the garboard from aft forward. When you get to the point where the plank it out over the stem, put a another plank next to it and keeping it in a straight line, trim the garboard into the stem...
It looks like yours is bit too wide.. maybe too long... as it shouldn't curve up.
What Doc said... don't lose any sleep over it.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Old Collingwood in HMS Warspite by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 scale - PLASTIC
More progress on the bow section - i fitted the three sets of bollards then painted the steel base around them deck grey, and the bollards light grey, I have also decided to paint the anchor chain deck plates a deck grey colour instead of the red oxide anti rust color(as i dont have it and the captain wanted it uniform deck grey color) the Hawse Pipe and surround as well as the Capstan and plate have been painted light grey.
I also decided to return to the rear block area and give the top rail fittings a light coat of black paint, as the real cables where black colour in real life.
Here are a few pics.
OC.
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GrantGoodale reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Mates,
After drilling the needed holes and squaring them along the lower railings got close to attaching the main mast, and the shrouds, then – for some reason – as I was squaring the last of the railing holes, I decided to attach the needed horizontal rail at the foremast (where the squared holes had already been completed; to be sure that the vertical beams would all align properly when it was time to glue those long horizontal rails on each side.
Then realized that having pre-attached the foremast shrouds, before fixing in place the upper rail trim bits was a big mistake.
Now trying to align the squaring of the pre-drilled holes, adjusting the heights of the vertical braces is a real pain. Hmmm So before I attach the lower main, mizzen, and their shrouds, I will build all the rest of the upper rails first.
PS: Mark I should have gone back to your log (Marktiedens #103) and taken your sequence into consideration. Frank and I had also discussed this issue J we were both concerned about installing the upper railings before all the rigging work in case of breakage later on - (being all thumbs and all) Oh well, still an adjustment work in progress.
Here are a couple updated photos.
Regards,
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GrantGoodale reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
I knew it! I KNEW it!
I knew I took pictures while taming the lions :-) Here is the addendum´s addendum. Yes that thing in the right lower corner is my scalpel. Some more before-after shots. XXXDAn -
GrantGoodale reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
Bern in Switzerland at night and it rains cats and dogs. Lovely city with wonderful arcades and beautiful shops, but all closed by this time. To wet to do anything else so I sit underneath the arcades in front of the hotel and do some more addenda - bad luck for you lot ;-) If being fed up with gross motor skilled work like the planking or skylighting, I still had something else to do. As I already knew that I will need two more figure heads, so i decided to do a decent one, and this time to hopefully do a casting of it. Here are two Heller originals. and even here one is less crisp than the other and even that one has the appearance of an old chewed and sucked out chewing gum … … that is why I spend several nighttimes giving some TLC wich the help of my scraping skills and a scalpel … … and no, the red is no blood, it is only Edding marker to have a control what i was doing. And suddenly the horse started to jump, the harp harped again, the ice bucket rebecame Charlemagne’s crown and the duke´s hat behated everything once more and the undercuts finally cutted under … … only .. … only the lions where not be be revived by this treatment, so I replaced them by thin sheet like I already did with figure-head.1 :-) And to crown the assembly … … massacred the old crown … … to serve as a bending template for the replacement. Hollowed the base … … and checked how much space was under the spriet mast. Shortened the top accordingly … … and it looked good :-) O yes the small lettering was also fixed. After using pincers and paint, after spray glue and CA I tried something new, transparent Post-its Cut in small stripes … … and catch the letter with the sticky side - the transparent allows to see the orientation - applied little CA … … placed it and used something pointed to press against the surface … … and it fits :-) XXXDAn -
GrantGoodale reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
Oh those marvels of modern technology. Sitting in the car towards a job in Switzerland and being able to update some of the late progress***.
Not much was possible, just small bits late night, so one had to find the right subject - I found one, not too far off :-) I love the small etch skylight, but as all etch it misses a bit of depth. Long time I wanted to try something. First glued some 0,25 mm sheet onto the back of the roof using CA … … cleaned the edges, drilled the holes and opened the windows with a file using the brass as template … … and then separated the parts very caaaaaaaaarefully using a scalpel. Then cleaned the back of the roof and glued the clear sheet onto it by just applying CA on the edges to minimise fumes and mess … … and glued the sheet back in place thus resulting into a nice three level sandwich brass-clear sheet-normal sheet with a nice edge with the right thickness :-) The sides went alike, first clear, then normal, this time using Evergreen for the glazing bars fixed with UHU-Plast. Like this, the „glass“ is nicely packed in the middle. The lower part was left longer on purpose as this gives a nice anchorage on the deck. Still added the deck beams … … and it already looked rather cute … … even reflecting in the light. Even though I used clear sheet, how was the original glazed? Using mica for the advantage of not breaking? Or old fashioned very disturbed glas? Cheers, Daniel PS: ***Do not worry, my colleague is driving ;-) -
GrantGoodale reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
Flashback ...
The night before Augsburg was a long one as I wanted to discuss all things anchor with the savants present there.
So I prepared all the ropes and bits and it was not too bad, but still many details laying in the obscure.
So this what was prepared and discussed, the overhaul with all the valuable hints that I got will be done soon :-)
So please excuse some sloppy ropes, that was still work in progress :-)
First the anchor hanging at the hawse, cat block is already lowered.
Then the cat block is to be hooked in ...
Anchor being towed up by the cat tackle
The anchor is saved by a rope (name? german Perturleine), that is fixed the way it is in Portsmouth - many do think that was a bad idea ;-)
I always wondered that the clamp has no roll to minimize chafing, but actually I realized, there is no movement, the rope is just used statically.
Then the cat block is taken out, the anchor is hanging on the rope (that should go through the clamp, I forgot ...). The cat block is taken aside.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Build log part 35
Update
Starting with the 8 mm high railing of and around the promenade deck.....
the railing is a very fragile piece of equipment. I start with the portion which requires the most attention. In opposite to the forecastle deck railing this long railing will be glued on in sections to the base rail, instead of soldering it. I`ll ty and fit a handrail afterwards, in order to stabilize it better
Nils
The two rectangular (unplanked) patches take up the nav-light cabinets
the stern anchor rests on a special place aft / midships
before cutting the railing lengths to fit, I made some templates.......
the railings are from chemical etched copper, 0,5 mm thick, in scale 1:150 (also suits my scale 1:144 well)
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
update
build log part 33
here is a little update on the forecastle stairways, the cargo hatches, the medium sized cargo derrick and the anchor handling crane........
Nils
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Going back in time again, I thought I would post some photos of the hull and discuss the painting process. I learned long ago in my styrene plastic model days, that any great build can be ruined very quickly by an average paint job. My wood working experience has taught me much about stains, dyes and finishes, but paint can be a bit nerve racking.
I decided to paint my hull flat black. No green. My decision was based mostly on asthetics, and because the large model of the Niagara at the Presque Isle Museum has a black hull, and it looks great. I have seen some research on this topic posted on the forum, and I have to agree that the original Niagara Hull was not painted green. I of course realize that this kit is not of the original Niagara, but the replica ship recreated by the State of Pennsylvania in the 1980's. Yet, I cannot even find a photo of the current Niagara with a green painted hull. It looks copper colored to me, and when I actually toured the ship years ago, I never even thought to look at the hull paint, even if I could have seen it below the water.
So, Master Modeler (MM) flat black was the choice. That brand was chosen for two reasons. First, it is a good quality modeler paint and readily available. More importantly, it fit my plan. I have an Iwata Eclipse air brush. It is a great product. I recommend it. However, spraying large surfaces with a fine airbrush can be a bit tedious. What I have done is to use commercial spray cans for rough coats and then the airbrush for the final finish coat. I was able to purchase a small can of MM flat black and a small MM bottle that allowed me to accomplish this.
I did not take any photos of the hull during the prep work. I carefully masked off the painted bulwarks, inside and out. I then sanded the planking and borrowing a great idea from XKEN from his Niagara build, used an automotive glazing putty to fill in the seams. It goes on smooth, dries quick, and is easy to sand away (in fact, almost too easy, so be careful). I followed that with a finish sanding and a coat of MM Gray primer from a can. The primer will reveal any defects, so a little more glazing here and there, and then another coat of primer. After the surface was acceptable, which for me, required quite a bit of sanding to reveal the plank edges, I was ready for the paint.
I used two coats of flat black from the MM can for the initial coats, being very careful not to over spray the surface (commercial spray cans emit large amounts of paint). I used 600 grit sand paper for light sandings in between, and then went to the airbrush for the final coat. I used the MM paint from the bottle, with about a 50/50 paint to thinner mixture for that last finish coat. Despite my fears, the hull turned out really good.
Here are some photos of the final product.
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
I am switching between work that I did over the winter months and current work. In February and March, I worked on the masts and yards. The Bowsprit was quite the challenge. I did not take many pictures, and I am working on recreating some of the techniques I used for later posts.
For now, I worked on the chock rail and catheads over the weekend. Since I am swapping out all non painted parts from the basswood to cherry, I had to recreate my own rails and catheads. I milled some cherry strips, traced from the laser cut pattern, cut the parts carefully on the bandsaw, and sanded to a fine finish. I cut the sheaves in the catheads very carefully with multiple drill holes and finished with an exacto knife. As usual, I broke one, and had to start over. I am going pretty close to a 3 to 2 clip. It always seems to take at least 3 tries to get 2 right.
Here are some photos.
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
With the deck complete, time for some deck furniture. That starts with the carronades and long guns. I painted all of the platforms and carriages. then built a jig from the laser cut sheet to drill the holes for the rings. I again used one of my very small diamond tipped cutters for the dremel. I just put a measured hole in the jig and used it for the platforms. I drilled one hole and then flipped the platform over and drilled the hole on the other side
I also used the same jig to cut the notch for the buckled ring on the back of the carriage and the notch on each side for another set of rings.
I placed some photos to show how I made the rings. I basically drilled a series of 20 holes in one of the kit supplied brass strips, inserted 20 rings, and then cut each off of the main strip. It made it easier to handle such small pieces. I then blackened all of the parts with Birchwood Brass Black ( a great product and another great tip lifted from this forum).
For the rounded metal straps on the nose of the platform, I started with a 24 gauge black wire, made a tight circle, pounded it flat with a hammer, and then cut small sections to fit on the front of the platforms. I then blackened that as well.
I painted the gun barrels with the kit supplied black paint. I have an Iwata double action air brush that puts down a great finish.
I used bass wood strips for the quions. I cut the small triangles and put a small hole with a push pin in the back, and inserted the tip of a touthpick for the handle.
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
I next moved on to the deck. I decided to use 1/8 wide cherry veneer strips on a 1/16 thick sheet of birch plywood. I cut out the picture of the deck from the plans and used it to trace an image onto the plywood. I then cut it out on the jig saw. After a little bit of sanding, it fit good enough. With the plywood set on the ship, I took strips of the veneer and glued them down around the perimeter. This assured a perfect fit against the waterway.
Once the perimeter strips dried, I removed the plywood from the ship and went back to the bench. I decided to use 4 inch strips on 1 inch centers. I marked the 1 inch lines and then ran a series of lines long way to act as guides. I cut a pile of 4 inch strips and used a black sharpie to line the edges. On the hardwood cherry, the black ink penetrated just enough to simulate caulking.
I then started glueing them down using yellow wood glue. I was able to move at a pretty good pace and loved the look of the cherry. I was able to do the entire deck in an afternoon.
Once it dried, I punched nail holes with a puch pin and blackend the holes with a sharp No. 2 pencil. A good but gentle sanding (the veneer is paper thin) completed the process.
Using the veneer on birch plywood and laying the planks OFF the ship was a good decision. I recommend it.
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
And that finally brings me to 2016. When i picked up this project again, after being dormant for years, and realized my build log was gone in the crash, I figured I would simply plug away and gave up the idea of starting the log all over again. Therefore, as I get closer to the present, the next few posts will cover alot of work but with only a few pictures.
First up, the overwhelming project of planking the hull. It ended up being the typical, think about the daunting hurdle for weeks, read everything I could get my hands on, nervously glue on the first strake, then get totally consumed with finishing. In the end, after I laid the last strake (which I did take a picture of for posterity), I sat back and had one of those "did I actually do this" moments.
Since the hull is painted (allowing all of the gaps to be filled and sanded), and single planked, I opted to simply lay the strakes in the recommended bands from the kit plans. I did not taper many strakes, and heavily relied on steelers when necessary. It was a good exercise. When the time comes for a future build requiring a double planked hull where the paint and filler crutches are unavailable to cover up the work, I should be ready.
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Next step was to finish painting the bulwarks, inside and out, and then line the gunports and sweeps with strip wood. I opted to size each lining seperately, number them to keep them straight, and then prime and paint them with the gun red before installing. It took a week of tedious work. In the end, i did not like the finish, and to make matters worse, i marred and chipped the painted surface during the installation and clamping..... SO..... I ended up doing what I tried to avoid. I had to sand the finished and painted bulwarks, inside and out (a daunting task) to make the linings flush with the walls, and repaint the whole thing over again, by hand. In the end, i would have been much better off installing the linings BEFORE I painted. Lesson learned.
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GrantGoodale reacted to 6ohiocav in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Thanks John and Mark for checking in. Wow, someone is actually looking at all this.
John, thanks for the photo link. I have actually viewed your shots on many occasions, as you have graciously posted them on the other Niagara logs. I took some photos myself in 2011 but they are not nearly as good as yours. Your photo collection is a fantastic resource.
Mark, I did not take any pictures of the damage caused by the table collapse. I have however posted the last photo that i took of the ship before the accident, and I suspect, this is the position of the ship in the vice when the table gave way. You will note that it is sitting in a vice with the stern pointing down. I used a marble tile to suction the bottom of the vice to. That extra weight at the very end of the table, along with the humidity and heat swings in the shop probably caused the hand crank to loosen just enough for the front of the table to give way. Three of the stern posts broke completely off together with all of the framing and the back portion of the keel cracked. The only bad thing was that I had a hard time finding all of the pieces among the huge pile of you know what. Everything that was on that table was in a single pile on the floor.
In the end, it could have been a lot worse but at the time however, it was enough to take the wind out of my sails. I is good to have it back.
Darrell