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GrantGoodale

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  1. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to AON in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale   
    I have one bad eye and one worsening eye.
     
    What helped was 4 summers at HMCS Quadra (2 of which were spent working in the boat shed), over 40 years ago, sailing 27 foot whalers and 32 foot cutters. Spent 5 days in an open cutter on my Practical Leadership course.  When pulling, the whalers were single banked and the cutters double banked.  Each had different shaped sweeps due to the length inboard of the crutch. I was looking at Druxey's perfect sweeps with those curved blades and that is when the light went on and I asked about it.   Of course I've no experience with any other era least of all barges... but I once built a raft when I was about 8!
     
    If it hadn't been for those memorable Sea Cadet summer camps I'd not have noticed.
  2. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Rustyj in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:48 Scale   
    Hi All,
     
    Continuing on I’ve completed sanding the bulkheads to the desired thickness.
    The false deck was cut out of some 1/16” cherry I had on hand. I made it out
    of two pieces and after adjusting and fitting it I had a minor gap in the middle
    which I filled with wood filler.
     
    Once that was completed I planked the bulkheads and painted it with Red Ochre.
     

     
    Here you can see that the cap rail has been completed and the margin planking has been started.
     

     
    That’s the fun stuff.
     
    Well the Admiral and I have purchased a different home and I am now in full
    renovation mode. Sadly by the end of this month (April) the workshop will
    shut down until the move has been completed and a new workshop constructed.
     
    The new shop will be in a 12x20 section of the basement that is currently unfinished.
     

     
    So it is going to be a happy/sad time coming up. It will be thrilling to double my
    workshop space but shutting down the shop for 3 months or more will really be annoying!
    So I will be getting done what I can in between work and the renovations till the end of
    the month.  
  3. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to dashi in HM Bark Endeavour by dashi - Caldercraft - scale 1:64 - 1768-71 - bashed kit   
    The Rudder:
     
     
     
    Here's some photo's of where I'm at. I was researching the positions of the deck beams because I wanted to know the positions of trennels and decking butts which led me to start a discussion regarding a tiller sweep support I found on a deck plan of HMB Endeavour which can be found at the link below. It is from this discussion that I will be attempting to build two versions or interpretations for the Endeavour helm in a way that they can be refitted depending on outcome. It is also from this discussion that we work out the correct position and rigging of the helm blocks and tackle to clear the chimney flue from the great cabin while solving the helm rope slack problem. 
     
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13109-hmb-endeavour-tiller-and-steering-question/page-6 
     
    So what I've discovered from this is first that the Caldercraft rudder stock and head are too short by at least 6mm and not deep enough by around 2mm, so not to scale. The photos represent a several attempts and redoes to fix this. More research is needed to finish the rudder head.
     
    The kit tiller is the correct length however it doesn't fit into the rudder hole so I've also bashed a new tiller to match the scale and shape of the original from the 1768 draughts. I couldn't bring myself to paint my tiller red, so have stained it. I've also decided not to use the kit tiller uplift attached to the end of the tiller, but instead to bash this from 1mm brass wire. I will bash the chimney flue from the great cabin which this uplift is used to clear as this isn't included in the kit either. The scale rule in the photos is marked off at 1 ft intervals to help me maintain the correct scale which seems to be an ongoing problem with this kit. The 1768 plans also show the stern post protrudes the quarterdeck, so I've added this and framed the rudder hole which also isn't included in the kit either. So some bashing.
     
    Having built the rudder I could fit the gudgeons and pintles to the stern and finish the hull below the whale with a second coat of matt poly. The gudgeons and pintles needed some filing to fit the brass straps and allow for an easy fit and removal of the rudder which I will be doing a lot of. I've also shaped the stand so the hull sits level and plumb and glued some strips of old felted wool to it. I've placed wooden locator pins from off cuts that push up into 1mm holes I've drilled into the false keel so I can easily remove and relocate the hull. later I might make a clamping system to hold the hull more permanently on the stand.
     
    I've now jumped ahead and started making the deck furniture which I need to dry fit on the deck to find their final locations and finalize the deck beam positions. I've managed to pencil the centres of some of these deck beams aft of the mizen so this could take a while. Once I've got this done and inked the trennels and butts and give the deck a final poly, then I can add the hull fittings above the wale.
     
















  4. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48   
    ...another parts which will be moved to scrap... main top and fore top... dimmention of few parts in tops are wrong so I have to make new tops... I decide to change a little bit construction of the tops as well... so it's also bright side of making tops again
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  5. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48   
    Foremast... I'm building model using enlarge cardboard model  from 1/96 to 1/48.
     
    Ok, time to show you carvings... made from pau marfin...
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ...parrot after wax mixture...
     

     
     
  6. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48   
    After when planking and imitation of nailing was finished I started cover model using wax mixture. Pear got really noble and old coloure...I love it!!
     

     

     

     

     
    ...and some progress
     

     

     

     
    ... head gratings, rails and toilets
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ...by the way wales was covered using solution of birch tar and terpentine
     

     
     
     
     
     
  7. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48   
    continuation...
     
    Deck nails imitation made as well using brass wire but in this case 0,5mm...
     
    ...becouse I broke few drills I said stop... and I made drill from... brass wire with sharp end... worked brilliant


     

     

     

     

     

     
    ...some overview of decks
     

     

     
    ...nothing special, just walls
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ...after all I started bulkheads, keel, sternpost, steam and finally planking...
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ...meanwhile some ladders...
     

     

     
    ...and planking of course pear wood. Bow planking calibrate to avoid stealers. I formed planks using only water and 36,6 deree celsius from my hands. Pear lath if was cut properly it'll be very flexible Imitation of taring on the edge of each lath was made using soft pencil.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
     
  8. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48   
    Welcome back... after some problems with old MSW my logs and not only mine were lost... so now I'll try restore what I wrote before...
    So... I'm building dutch pinnce from XVII century. Vessel was built in Dutch shipyard and then serve few years in Dutch Navy... after all Navy sold ship in 1623 to Swedish Navy. This vessel participate in the battle of Oliwa (coast of Poland) in 1627... battle was part of war between Poland and Sweden. In 1929 vessel came back to the waters of Bay of Gdańsk to took part with other vessels in blockade of the City of Gdańsk. She was sank in 1644.
     
    I'm using pear wood for entire model (except deck which was made using birch wood and carvings which is pau marfin)

    Rest information you 'll find in following logs...
     
    That how model looks after one year...

     
    ...and some picture from the beginning...
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    ...and some picture of my gratings (1,5mmx1,5mm)...
     

     

     

     
    ...nails imitation made using 0,2mm brass wire...
     

     

     

     
     
    Best regards,
    Matt
  9. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Anchors aweigh...
     
    For the anchors I decided not to use the provided metal stocks and tried making my own.  Four pieces of wood, 5/32” square, were notched with a file for the anchor and then glued together.  After the pieces were dry  they were tapered per the detail shown on the drawings.
     

    The anchor buoys were also made a the same time.  These were made out of a 5/16” diameter dowel, chucked into my ‘poor man's lathe’ and shaped per the plans using a small file.
     

     
    After the stocks were tapered they were stained, then faux treenails were added, and then the iron bands put on.  The treenails were simulated by drilling holes into the stocks and then filled with a Minwax blend stick, the iron bands were made using the copper foil tape, blackened and cut into 1/16” strips.  The anchors were paint black and the buoys were stained.  The harnesses were made and tied around the buoys as described in the manual.  The iron rings were made from 22 gauge wire and wrapped (puddened) with .021 rigging line (hard to see in the picture). I kind of cheated when doing this because I found that I could serve the wire while it was straight and then bend it around a 3/16” diameter dowel to make the ring. The ends of the pudden need to be cut back a little so the ring can fit into the anchor hole.  All the anchor pieces were assembled and the lines were then tied to the anchors and buoys
     
     

     
     
    Lashing the anchors to the cap rails and the buoys to the shrouds was pretty straight forward. The hard part (and now I know why Dirk ran his anchor cable ahead of time) was threading the anchor rope along the deck with all the rigging in the way.  That was tough especially wrapping it around the riding bits.  One thing that would have made it a bit easier would have been to drill a deeper hole in the hull where the cable does down through the hatch openings.  I only had about a ¼” deep hole and had a difficult time bending and holding the rope in place while the glue dried.  With a deeper hole, say  ¾” to 1” deep, the thick rope would have been easier to bend into the hole and keep in place.
     
     

     
     
    All I have left to do are the rope coils for the buoys and the flags and some last minute tweaking.  I don’t want to rush but I’m hoping to finish everything for the Northeast Ship Model Conference this Saturday in New London, CT.  Finished or not I will still be bring her.
  10. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    The last yard!!  The spritsail was hung and rigged following Chuck's instructions.  The hardest part was tying off the spritsail braces to the pin rails with the lower yard's sheets and tacks rigging in the way.  The only other little problem was that the directions for running these lines abruptly stops so you know where it starts but not where it ends.  Like I said though it’s not a major problem because it’s shown on the drawing.
     

     
    Completed spritsail rigging.
     

     
    My method for checking if the yards are square to the ship centerline. Not too bad for an amateur.  You need to be careful standing over the ship to look down that you don't hit the bowsprit.
     

     
    All rigged out and ready to go.
     
     


     
     
     
    Rigging this ship was, to say the least, an experience, an enjoyable one though.  Enjoyable because of Chuck’s detailed instructions.  If it wasn’t for his instructions I’d still be fumbling around on the footropes.  For those of you working on this ship if you go step by step as shown in the manual you should have no problems at all.  That being said the only little deviation I made was the placement of the rope coils on the belaying pins.  I had started to put them on as I ran the lines but I found that it was getting hard to tie off the later lines with the coils in the way.  So I just waited until everything was finished, except for the lower yard’s sheets and braces, to put all the coils on. That went for the cleats on the bulwarks and the tops also.
     
     
    And one complaint, not with the directions but with the amount of  line that is provided with the kit because I ran out of 0.012 and 0.018 manila line.  Maybe it was the lack of experience on my part as to how much line to use for each rigging line but I didn’t think I was wasting that much.  They did however give me a lot of .021 manila thread but you don’t use it anywhere.  I also ran out of 1/8” double blocks and I know I didn’t waste or lose them.
     
    On to the anchors.
  11. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to kees de mol in Pelikaan 1999 by kees de mol - FINISHED - scale 1/75 - Dutch Beamtrawler   
    Photos removed
     

    Slowly we come further.
  12. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to usedtosail in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76   
    Thanks for the likes all. With all the crazy time at work this week, I did manage to get some therapeutic time in the shop. I glued the new bow pin rail in place and added the belaying pins.
     

     
    I also glued the baffle plate that I punched from copper sheet to the galley stack. I glued two pieces of wire to the sides of the stack, touched up the paint, and glued the stack into the hole in the deck. It is hard to see in the pictures but if you look really closely to the third picture you can just see the wire.
     

     

     

     
    I then made three ladders. One will go in the open hatch I left aft of the open waist, and the other two will go in the open waist openings at the bow. I first made a jig for the table saw from some scrap plywood and basswood strips. There is a thin strip of wood on its side in a slot that sticks out a bit from the plywood base, and a slot for the saw blade that is the distance between steps from it.
     

     

     
    I used it to cut a slot, then place that slot over the raised piece to cut the next slot, until I had seven slots in each side. I have two boards as guides for the ladder sides, at the same angle but in opposite directions for the two different sides. Here are the results:
     

     
    I then glued strips into the slots for the steps, sanded the ladders and gave them one coat of oak stain.
     

     
    I will give them another coat of oak stain and add hand rails and ropes before gluing them into the openings. Next up are the binnacles.
  13. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to usedtosail in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76   
    JS - I can't access that web site - I get a Sucuri warning.
     
    Pressing on, I drilled holes in one of the rims for the spokes, then placed wire into the holes like I did for the first attempt. Here you can see the first one on the left and the new one on the right.
     

     
    It is much thinner and looks much better to me, so I am happy so far. I then turned the spokes using the Dremel and a draw plate. I made the thinner part of the spokes first to fit in the holes in the rims. I then turned the part sticking out for the handle in the draw plate and cut them to length. Here is how it looked at that point.
     

     
    The spokes were glued into the rim by sliding them out slightly then placing a tiny bit of glue on the end and just under the handle, then pushing them CAREFULLY back into the rims before the glue set, which happened pretty quickly. I broke a few in the process but they were easy to remake. The next day I used a small round file and a small flat file to shape the ends into the handles and here is how it came out.
     

     
    A few of the spokes don't line up across the inner hub, but other than that I am pretty happy with the look, compared to the metal supplied wheels.
     
    I then used the same process on the second wheel, but this time I was more careful drilling the holes at the inner hub. I started making the spokes last night and they are just set in place for now. Rounding and trimming the ends for the handles is next to do.
     

     
    I may redo the inner hub on the first one and make new spokes or I may remake a whole new wheel, but first I will see how the second one turns out.
     
  14. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to guillemot in Fair Rosamund by guillemot - 1/144th scale   
    The base is Lime and it's painted! Forgot to put that bit up....
    Early on on the process... Lime is easy to carve

     
    and some paint applied...there's been a lot more paint applied since this shot, but I've been a bit lazy with the camera. I'll take some more soon!

  15. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Hyposphagma in Santa Maria by Hyposphagma - FINISHED - Revell - PLASTIC - Scale 1:96   
    Finally the Santa Maria is finished. Here are some more impressions of her. Hope you will like it!
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  16. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    Yes, Mark! It was very difficult to build it....
     
    This is the other, with the small bell:
     

     

     

     

     

  17. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    The metal figurehead panels are very heavy and will require some thick pins to keep them in place. I used 1.5mm brass rods.
    Also, part of the lower head rails have been placed. The figurehead panels will have to go on before the rest of the lower head rail can be measured, as well as the rest of the head rails and timbers.
     
    Vince P.


  18. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to druxey in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale   
    Thanks yet again, everyone. 
     
    Now for the repetitive part; twelve sweeps. These were 19 ' 0" long. The blanks have been cut and roughed out using a mill. The first - my prototype - has been shaped. There will still be details to add such as the reinforcing strap at the end of the blade and the leather at the thole. These sweeps would be relatively simple to make, but for the curved blade.


  19. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Timmo in Cruizer-class brig by Timmo - FINISHED - 1:36 scale - RADIO   
    It has been a while but there has been some progress in the shipyard.
     
    With the hull largely complete attention has turned to the masts.
     
    These were again cut from matai and mainly shaped by hand with a small plane. With a diameter of 14-16mm and length of over 360mm for the lower masts they were a bit big for my small proxxon lathe. This was quite easy to do by hand and very satisfying.
    The top gallant masts were turned from fibreglass rod as wood would not have the strength at this scale and if anything will get damaged in transit it'll be the top masts and jib boom.

    The fighting tops were made from 3mm ply which was glassed on both sides for strength.
    These were up scaled slightly from petrejus' plans after reading about size differences among some forums of SC&H kits.
     
    The batons and trestle trees were cut with the Byrnes table saw which allowed some very close tolerances and ensure everything fits together very closely and is quite strong without being stuck together. Working fids will allow the masts to drop down for transport although a test fitting has surprisingly revealed the vessel fits (with a list) in the back of the family SUV.

     
    The hounds are yet to be added but won't take long. The masts have been stepped in boxing with the help of their square bases and secured with a wood screw so if disaster strikes it's all remove able. It isn't pretty but practical.
     


    Also the rebated frames of the access hatches have been added, giving a final indication of how much room there will be to get at the mechanical entrails - hopefully it'll be enough but I'll aim to have that planned out and largely installed before the majority of the decking goes on.

     

  20. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Cabbie in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle   
    Good Evening all
    Slow business this model ship building hobby, but good.
     
    I have been working on the stern, and starting the windows.
    First I part planked the plywood stern piece.
     
    The jamb strips are Sapele from the kit, a bit
    darker than the Jarrah. Hopefully the sapele will give a shadow effect to the frame
    I soaked them and placed in window openings
    until dry, then then cut some 1.25mm x .5 kauri strips and soaked and bent for
    the window sashes, and glued them together to make it up to 1mm.
     


     
    Then I fixed the assembly in place, and
    finished the planking.
     


     
    Next is to make the double cross glazing bars.
     
    Then I need to decide what to do instead of glass,
    painting it in black seems to be one idea, which probably
    appeals to me (simpler). Any one got any ideas?
     
    Cheers Chris
     
  21. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to costeo in Apostol San Felipe by costeo - OcCre   
    Hello everybody!
    The last small things in this area.
    The rigging works are close but I have only the kit plans... and I'm so far from the kit. If you have any detailed plans for the earlier 17-th century galleons rigging.... it will be very welcome!





  22. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to costeo in Apostol San Felipe by costeo - OcCre   
    Hi!
    I continued to test the ropes and I looked how to make the deadeyes...





  23. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette   
    Hello,
    many thanks to Jose and Karl
    for the kind posts,
    and to all the others for many Likes.

    So it goes on:

     

  24. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to igorsr in Santa Maria by igorsr - FINISHED - Tehnodiktata - Scale 1:66   
    My next projects,
    some of them are finished till planking.
     
    Nina - Amati
    Pinta - Amati
    Wasa - Corel
    Caesar Bireme Romana - Mantua

  25. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to igorsr in Santa Maria by igorsr - FINISHED - Tehnodiktata - Scale 1:66   
    More pictures.






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