qwerty2008

Here are some pictures of a full size block that I made aways back, it only has one eye but to make a second eye you would just need a larger loop of rope and seize the eye around the boom first then seize the second around the block.



 
To seize start from the eye end and make a loop as shown,

then begin wrapping (if on a block wrap towards the block) around the rope being seized,

once you reach the end of your seize pull the end through the loop created earlier.

then pull the loop tight until the loop disappears inside the seize,

and lastly cut the ends off.
 
 
Lextin.

As my grandfather told me many times when I was a kid.  You do not know until you give it a try.  If you never try do something, you will never know if you can.
David B

Lextin,
 
She's come a long way since those early pictures.  Looking great and I, for one, can't wait for pictures of her in the water and sailing.

A little paint goes a long way, eh?

Today, I actually got more time to build than I thought. I started by laying out the rest of the frames. ( for anyone that is new to scratch building , When you use a lines drawing for your plans , You have to subtract the thickness of your planking from the frame's . or your boat will have to much Beam... just throwing it out there ) I then cut them out with an X-Acto knife ( I do not use power tools when I build models, I save that for Full size builds ) I then thought to add the America's Cup logo to the Keel . I then cut out the notches in the Keel and frames, and dry fit them . Next I cut out the deck , I then dry fit all the pieces ( I still have to trim a few frames to deck height) My wife thinks she is very Sleek , and I have to agree. I am having alot of fun with this one . I am off to the Family 4th party. Here are the results

Hi mMichael Mott, Archjofo,mQwerty2008 and everyone else. Thanks for your Likes.
 
Here are the latest photos. I've made progress with the owner's cabin and the semi-circular settee (blue cushions with simulated padding on the cushions- which didn't quite turn out the way I was hoping). In the main saloon. The owner's cabin now has a hanging closet next to the double berth as well as it's own bathroom and WC. The bathtub and WC will be done next, as well as the other bathrooms and the ladies cabin (aft). Next week, I'll also tackle the galley, crews quartes, etc.
 
Best regards.

Hi MTaylor. Thanks for your Like. Today, I was cleaning the display cabinet and thought this was a good opportunity for a miniature fleet shot! In the accompanying photos, you'll see my model of the HMS Pandora (hull only, no masts or rigging yet), the Dorade, the Binker (single masted yacht) and, of course, Ingomar. Other photos will featureas the Lennox, a 17th Century Restoration Warship, built to plans by Richard Endsor. All models are fully scratch built, individually planked, with fully detailed interiors.
 
Incidentally, I've posted more photos of Binker, Pandora and Lennox in the Gallery section.
 
Dave - Do you have any more photos of the Connie in the watch case? Is it the same that's featured on one of his webshot photos? If so, gotta admit, it's pretty darn nice!
 
Happy modelling, everyone!

Lextin - Your photos and explanation on seizing help a lot. I still need to see how to seize the block to the boom and create an eye on the bottom end of the strop.

Thank you Greg, Jay, Mark, Bedford, Nils, Grant, John E, Bob, Druxey, Remco, and Mark Taylor for all your positive remarks.
 
"Two things I take from that are that you have a MUCH easier rig to unship than I do"
 
Bedford 5 minutes to de-rig, and 20 to re-rig I found out today at the pavillion.
 
"I asume rigged mast and topsail shall nearly be scratching the room cealing."
 
Nils the ceiling in the living room is 10 foot 3 inches so it will be about 3 feet shy
 
All in all the event was very successful, I had a table set up for children to make paper dorys, most of the visitors were young girls and they built 13 dorys during the afternoon, at the end of the day there was a young boy who came, The photographer came around late in the day, so missed the girls in action building their boats.
 

 
There was a lot of positive feedback regarding the pilot cutter.
 
After the event I went outside because there was a bit of commotion on the beach, seems that a boat had been stranded.
 

 
 
 
 
Close but still dry.
 
 
Now to remove the deck hardware and rigging completely so that I can finish painting the hull. and the rest of the seizings and other rigging details.
 
 
 
 
Michael

More than 20 years ago I built from scratch a venetian xebec, from purchased plans.
The plans are available but are not made by the usual ships manufacturers.
They were made accordingly to original drawings coming from a Venetian archive.
In the photos can be seen some of the plans and the model that I made.
The model is rather big (around 90 cm long).
I always been puzzled by the strange shape of such xebec (a bit fat, hull not common on xebec).
 
Now finally I have found the original ancient drawings that originated such plans!
They are published in the book "Venetian Ships - Navi Veneziane" by Gilberto Penzo, Lint editor.
 
I discovered that the ship was a polacre, and the absence of sail plan probably generated some misunderstanding on the author of the plans thay I purchased.
The original drawings were a bit different and the typical polacre hull is more evident.
 
After that I decided to study a deep conversion of the model, in order to let it be more similar to the original one.
in the photos:
-one of the purchased plans, made in 1947 (first two photos).
-the original drawings (second two photos)
-the present model.
Well, I am not a true expert, but the final result will be less historically false than the present one, so in anycase will be a success for me!
Any critics to the project (even destructive critics!) and suggestions are always appreciated!
 

THE SAIL PLAN
After evaluating the historical period and other similar projects, I decided that the sail plan can be rather similar to the one made by Amati Venetian Polacre.
Other plans exist of other polacres of other countries, and the sail size are all more or less the same.
below can be seen some of the sail plans and rigging that I made with a CAD program.
I superimposed the orignal hull drawing.
The rigging is a rather complex part.
In the photos only few of the rigging that I made is showed.
Luckily, in the mid XVIII century the sail rigging was rather standardised, so I must not make too much odd hypotesis.
Note: I mirrored the top view of the hull, and evenly corrected, the drawing is still not correct.
So it means that the original drawing was probably focused on the hull drawing and only lighty on the bridges details.
 

THE WOLFS HEADS
A strange type of decoration is present in the bow of this polacre.
more or less is the same both in the purchased plans and in the original drawings:
a set of wolfs heads were present, in various points of the bow.
in the photo can be seen:
-the wolfs in the purchased plans;
-the wolfs that I made 20 years agos;
-the wolfs as in the original drawing (marked in red).
Surely the wolf heads that I made will be completely re-sculpted.
but there is one more head in the bow which is not present in the purchased plans (definetly a wolf pack!!! )
 
 
 

THE STERN
A study was needed in order to prepare the stern modifications.
There was an error on the way the stern is made, so a deep modification is needed.
in the photo can be find:
-the purchased plans stern drawing;
-the built stern;
I mirrored the original drawing stern, cleaned the image and made light common decorations, which I find on other venetian ships sterns of the same period.
in the photo can be seen the result.
 
 
 

Two control units taking shape, one for Macedonian, the other for Constellation.
 

I made the riding bits a pinrail and a mock up hatch coaming.



 
 
 
.-..  .  -..-  -  ..  -.

I made the riding bits a pinrail and a mock up hatch coaming.



 
 
 
.-..  .  -..-  -  ..  -.

Welcome.
 
Spent several hours on the computer redrawing the sails based on my card stock templates made to verify size and curvature then detailing the drawings with seam edges, stitching, patches, reef bands and brass colored grommets. I then mirrored those sails and detailed the opposite sides to match.
 

Sail printing computer master. I used four shades of light grey and two shades of light tan to simulate
differing ages, thicknesses and production lots of the canvas. This image was printed on both sides of
a sheet of paper to print two sets of sails. The red crosses and the blue centerline and border served
as register marks to check that the images on both sides align to each other. I stopped counting at
about twenty tries and estimate that it was at least thirty print-outs before I got one sheet with two sets
of sails where the variables in paper feed starts, slight angular shifts of the paper during printing, etc.
resulted in one "perfect" set of sails. I used the best grade of 20 lb. printer paper with the smoothest
surface finish I could find.
 
After cutting out the sails I drilled the holes at attachment points rather than poking holes with a needle point which promotes tears in the paper near edges. I also drilled the holes for the reef point ties.
 

Fore topsail bent to the yard with the reef point ties in place and the buntlines finally rigged.
Notice the stitch line below the reef band across three clothes for the wear patch on the other side.
The sail is 2.015 in X 1.140 in (51 mm X 29 mm) since I forgot a size reference again.
 

Aft side of the topsail. Here you can see the wear patch in a slightly darker shade of gray,
a buntline and a clew line with an appropriate caternary to the corner of the sail.
 
I made up some blocks at .032 in (0.8 mm) diameter for some of the sail control lines on the staysail and jib and bent the sails to the stays.
 

Jib with a block and rope for the downhaul. I still need to rig the sheets at the corner. The block
and rope for the uphaul is visible just below the stay in the first photo of the topsail.
 
 

 
Dave

If you've been following my Constellation log, you'll recognize the servo tray set-up that Macedonian will carry.  Two Hitec HS-785HB winch servos will slide on rods with springs mounted to maintain tension in the yard braces.  One servo will operate the main and mizzen mast yards, the other will operate the fore mast yards.  The Hitec HS-815BB sail-arm servo will operate the heads'ls and driver.  The tray is 7" wide and 8" long, and will easily fit through Macedonian's main hatch.
 
 
 
A Hitec HS-645MG high-torque servo will handle the rudder. which will be constructed in a similar manner as Constellation's
 

 
 

Same batch pictures

Hi Anthony
 
I'm going for the whole bang shoot ... Framed. Pretty much using Alexandru's model as my inspiration (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/570-hms-victory-by-alexandru-scale-148-plank-on-frames/) and also Remco's model (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/18-hms-kingfisher-by-remco-1770-english-14-gun-sloop-pof-148/)
As for the wood. I will be using the Oak from nicely weathered Jack Daniel Whisky barrels. I'll add a few pics below.
And a forklift... well Lets talk again in approximately 20 years when I'm done LOL
 

 

 
I bought 3 of these so should have enough timber for the all the framing.
 
When it comes to the planking I visit a company called Rare Woods who sell off-cuts in a bargain bin. I'll have to still figure out how I will be milling the planks to size, but that is still in the distant future. (advice is still welcome in the meantime)

hi all
recent photos of rigging under way.on hold for the moment run out of rope! need to order some more from chuck.
cheers.....mick

Jerry you just reminded me that I never posted any older pictures as I promised in my first post. They are a good way to show how far I've come.
I thought that I had more from during the planking process but they must not have been backed last time I restored my computer so the only copies went down with 1.0.










 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I applied the second and third coats to the bulwarks then did touch ups on the rest.



 
 
 
Lextin.

I applied the second and third coats to the bulwarks then did touch ups on the rest.



 
 
 
Lextin.

Jerry you just reminded me that I never posted any older pictures as I promised in my first post. They are a good way to show how far I've come.
I thought that I had more from during the planking process but they must not have been backed last time I restored my computer so the only copies went down with 1.0.










 
 
 
 
Lextin.