qwerty2008

Thanks guys for the interest..I am just waiting on some wood to be delivered then I will start making some sawdust.  I am looking forward to it like you cant believe.  I couldnt find any decent quality 1/4" thick ply anywhere within driving distance so I had to order online.   I may just use solid wood instead for the bulkheads but I will see what I get.
 
Chuck

I completed the transom decoration!
 
But I have not yet completed the stern decorations...
I always considered the building of a ships a sequence of key points to be reached or steps to be accomplished.
A key point is from my point of view a part of the model, that needs to be completed well, otherwise the entire model can be ruined.
The transom decorations are a key point of this model to be made.
Are not hydentical as I hoped, but for my sitting room will be good enough...
Now many steps will be more easy.
I decided that the door of the cabin will be partially open.
So I dig an hole in the internal ship frame, then I painted the internal part of black.
As it can be seen after positioning the wooden wall, the door access is perfectly "pitch black"...
The wooden wall is just posed but not glued, since I will add steps on both sides (to give access to the upper deck) and the door, of course!

Another update
I am proceeding with the transom decorations.
this week-end I should finish them.
I am not completely satified, but since I will not partecipate to any exposition, it will fit my purposes...
In addition, I made the gunners windows in the cabin, as for the original drawings.
Since I decided that the last gunport will be closed, so will be that window.
So I placed a panel to cover it from inside, which can be one of the possible ways for closing such type of windows.
 

Richard: if you want something easy to start with I highly suggest a footy or something similar with only a single fore and aft sail. About the servo set up its easier to figure out when the model is already built, or at least in my opinion as I have a hard time planning things in advance. I don't want to hijack Jerry's thread so I will leave it at that.
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

Yes.   It will be flush at the mid deck camber and rise up out toward the outboard edges.   Thus, flat track, cambered deck.... hmm...  I've seen pictures of some ships around the Civil War period that seem to have pretty flat decks and pivot guns.  

I made the slide and hit it with a few coats of paint which was a real pain as my can of oxide red was empty and the only other can of oxide red I had was a different brand and clogged so I pulled a nozzle of a different can that was clogged too so I unclogged it and then found that this new paint goes on thinner then the last so I needed more coats to get even coverage, and then after all the trouble I went trough to paint it, it now makes my 6 pounder look a little crummy .




 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I made the slide and hit it with a few coats of paint which was a real pain as my can of oxide red was empty and the only other can of oxide red I had was a different brand and clogged so I pulled a nozzle of a different can that was clogged too so I unclogged it and then found that this new paint goes on thinner then the last so I needed more coats to get even coverage, and then after all the trouble I went trough to paint it, it now makes my 6 pounder look a little crummy .




 
 
 
 
Lextin.

Lextin,
 
New avatar... cool, I think it looks like you.     I think you've got the carriage.  As for the track.. it was, by then, and iron rail laid into the decking.  I think I'd just simulated with construction paper.  I made mine from metal but they're a lot smaller than what you're doing.

I have replaced the broken master lazy jack with one of larger diameter to ensure it can't run off the spool on the servo. The original was thinner and could fit in the gap between the spool and the guide drum.
 
By very gingerly turning it on and paying close attention to what happens I learned that the tops'l winch pulls on the lazy jack when the radio is turned on. It doesn't matter if the servo is all the way to it's preset stop in that direction it will still pull about 1/2 a turn more.
 
Solution :- remember to always leave the tops'ls drawn out when turning the radio off, this way all it will do is pull the sail in a bit then return to the correct position without harming anything.

As I think I mentioned somewhere near the top of this thread, I'm building this model of the ship as she appeared when new, based mostly on a painting of her at Naples in 1856 by deSimone. That painting shows a signal hoist at the mizzen truck.
  That's something I'd like to include on the model except that I have no idea what the signal means.
I cannot find those particular pennants in any signal system I've been able to find.  One is a white pennant with a blue bar, the other looks like a white tapered swallow-tail with red borders top and bottom.  Pennant, flag, burgee, or anything else; I cannot find those patterns in any flag set - including modern.
I could just put that signal on the model anyway, but it may not really be appropriate.  It could mean "Send a plumber!"  or "My bottom is fouled" or "I have a lovely bunch of coconuts"   Who knows?  I don't.
 
The possibilities are 1. it's a private US Navy signal.  2. It's a private Kingdom of Naples signal, or 3. deSimone just made it up.
 
In another thread here on MSW, regarding signals, someone posted links to several editions of Captain Marryat's (RN) Code of Signals.  The system assigns numbers to every warship of the major powers of the time, and all the merchant ships registered with Lloyd's.  The Tenth edition, dated 1847 contains the number 564 for the American frigate Constellation.  The next edition available online is dated 1855, but the French stopped publicly posting the list of their warships, so this and later editions no longer contain numbers for warships other than British.
 
I'll assume the new sloop of war Constellation would take the number of the frigate she replaced, and not knowing what her private USN number was, or what the code in the painting was, etc etc etc - I'm going with Marryat's 10th edition.
 
To that end, Marryat says;
 
So, I drew up the hoist for 564 to 1:36 scale, printed it on the color printer, and hoisted it up on Constellation's mizzen.  Yes, these are paper, I'll make a set from Supplex a bit later, I just wanted to see how it looked. 
 
 
Anyway, if anyone sees the model somewhere, and accesses the 1847 Marryat's on Google Books via their phone - they'll know what ship she is.

hi all
just a couple of photos of the sloop in her new home. just waiting for the acrylic to turn up to finish the case.
 
cheers....mick

Well Omega, it's like this.
The lazy jacks which haul the gaffs down are attached to the sail at several points as in the real thing, kind of like a draw string. This keeps the sail nicely contained and controlled back to a bit past half way and while the balance of the sail can spill out it can't go far.
 
So yes, I intend to at least motor out from the shore into open water before setting sails and I can choose how much sail to raise. If the wind comes up or my sailing skills let me down I can drop sails and power her home.
 
If I were to sail on a windy day I would probably tie the tops'ls and stays'ls down to better control them.

I finally got a new blade and thought that I would share a picture of the inaugural blade unwinding.

I also took a picture of it in its new home.

 
 
Lextin.

I finally got a new blade and thought that I would share a picture of the inaugural blade unwinding.

I also took a picture of it in its new home.

 
 
Lextin.

Actually Lextin the last idea sounds very good regarding swinging the oars back further, I'll see if I can figure out how to do that with the configuration I'm planning. Bob I darn not try to angle that ship into my car, I'm way too clumsy to risk that and I can picture me wrecking it in a hurry, but that is an option for another project down the road. 

I'm beginning a build of the battle station posted on the NRG's website.  I plan several modifications to the original, andI have increased the scale to 1/2" = 1".  I started by cutting out the base, as well as some walnut and bloodwood for the bulwark frames
 
I then dframed in the gunport with bloodwood.
 
Next came a mahogany waterway.  The photo shows it shaped, but not yet cut to size or installed.
 
I then planked the outside using rosewood for the wale, black strake and rail and boxwood for the planking.  The inner bulwark was planked in bloodwood.
 
 I'm now working on details.  The photo shows boarding stairs, deadeyes and cannon parts.
 
Dave

Start building a Genoa's saettia , merchant ship often used in '600 around the Mediterranean Sea. Here is a picture of how it should be (approximately) the finished model.
Mauro

Good morning Tom.
 
Hopefully these two photos will help, the glue was first diluted just enough to be able to be squeezed out of a large diameter hypodermic needle #25 the needle needed to be filled a few times for each run. I was able to lay the needle in the v groove between the planks and drag the needle toward the stern while squeezing the glue out. It was nerve wracking for sure because I did not want to spill any. the glue shrank when it dried so there were at least three applications of glue. 
 

 
Once the glue was fully cured I used a cabinet scraper to remove the lumps and blobs.
 

 
I have to admit that mini me helped in the tight corners  
 

 
Michael

managed a little more work on the cradle this evening. the longitudinal beams 12x10 were cut from some clear fir and they were mortised into the cross beams.
 

 

 

 

 
The cutter is now supported by the new pads and is quite stable, more so than the former cradle.
 
Michael
 
 

22 per side making a total of 44 oars Bob. I've been mulling over how to make them detachable for transport because with the craft being over two feet wide and 42 inches long I want to minimize the possibility of damage when transporting to the local pond. I have been thinking of making the oar rack two piece, bottom half to stay in the ship and the top half to be removable that will contain the oars.

Jerry: I use my drill press for turning as I don't have a lathe and found that if I clamp a board with a pointed metal rod thought it onto the table I can use it as a tailstock to stabilize longer work pieces.
 
 
Lextin.

This will mark the beginning of my project to build the prototype for the Cutter Cheerful.  The plans are completed and I am getting ready to release the plans in a few months.  I will be building her out of Boxwood or possibly even Pau marfin.  I havent decided.  This project is a POB build as you can see from the details in the plans posted below.  Its not a very cumbersome project with just a cutter rig to deal with.  She is carvel planked and not Clinker planked.  This is one of the reasons why I chose it as a subject.
 
Once I have the skeleton built and the hull planked,  the plans will be released. The remainder of the project is pretty straight forward and doesnt need much of an explanation.  I just need to prove out the design concepts for the hull skeleton.  It shouldnt take too long.  I will be writing a monograph as I build her and posting it on my website for free download as well as here on MSW should folks want to read it.  But as I stated,  I wont need to finish the entire project to release the plans as they are really straight forward.  At a 1/4" scale...the hull will be 28 inches long and 26" tall.  A nice size yet built at a larger scale to show some great details.  
 
I am finally at a point with the Syren store where my inventory is quite full and I will be able to enjoy working on both the Winnie and the Cheerful for several hours each day.  I just cant wait to get started.  Having a laser cutter doesnt hurt either.  It will save me much time.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Bending of the wood for the raised parts of the stern and bow. Sorry about the cannon in the picture but I couldn't resist showing some of my other builds!

Still working on the plumbing, added some blocking to support said plumbing; getting a little closer to permanent installation of the sub-deck.  I also stared at two paintings and a series of photos of the ship with sails set to try to figure out where jibs sheet and where the tacks and sheets run.  I think I've got it now.
 
 

All of the bandsaws, both vertical and horizontal, had roller guides as I recall. The great majority of the bandsaws were horizontal for use as simple cut-off saws. A few of the shops I worked in did a significant amount of fabrication in aluminum for which a vertical bandsaw was useful. These were the only bandsaws I saw that had blade welders.