Chuck

Have a look at those lids in that photo of the contemporary model. I will use brass strip and shape them just like that. But no soldering will be needed. There arent that many of them so it shouldnt be too bad but it will take some time to make them all. They will be working hinges made with wire...the hinge strap at the back end is thinned down and bent into a loop to accept the wire hinge pin. The wire hinge pin is bent into an "L" and one end is glued into a hole in the hull planking.....this is done while the "L" wire pins are inserted into the hinges. It will be easier to show it done than explain......in a little bit. No need for micro tubes as this will be a simplified approach....which being good enough for the contemporary builders will work just as good for us. But Dirks method is fine also....just more involved. In the end they will look almost identical. I wont be adding the many bolts as Dirk did either. Not only is that much extra work but if its not done perfectly and they are misaligned it looks sloppy. I also think it looks way too busy and over-done that way.....a kitchen sink approach. For my own aesthetics I will follow contemporary practices and keep them clean and free from bolts. "Less is more" Chuck

Bulkhead 29 placement......go here. Should be positioned after or while adding the stern frames so the notches for the frames line up properly. Otherwise they may throw off the angles of the stern frames left to right if they are shifted one way or the other. It basically doubles up bulkhead 28. They are glued on either side of the bulkhead former and there is no slot for them.

Thank you guys!!! I hope to have chapter two ready for you guys to download real soon.

Joe....read ahead and examine the plans....they are added later when adding the stern frames. It is best not to add them until you are ready to insert the stern frames. You can see them below.

Planking is now finished on the starboard side....I did celebrate a little and I am glad it is all done. Next up I will add the stern post. I already sanded the planking flush with the stern rabbet and now all I have to do is tweak the laser cut stern post and glue it in position. You will also notice those black bands across the hull. You guys know how I like to check and double and triple check stuff using tape and other stuff. What you see is black masking tape cut to 3/32" wide for the top band and 1/8" wide for the band that runs through the center of the gun ports. I had been looking at my test molding strips and thought that the molding I had used for the lower band was too wimpy at 3/32" wide. I had originally matched the width of the one above above it. You can see it in the photo below. I have also been examining the contemporary model and original draft a lot more with regard to the moldings. They show a heavier lower molding running through the gun ports. So I used the tape to check out what a wider molding would look like. I really recommend that you guys go through this exercise. It will help you establish the proper run for them. You can tweak them to you hearts content. Then mark the top edge with a pencil so you have a guide when actually adding the molding. Even though you might be able to use the planking seams as a guide, that isnt always perfect and may have gone waavy or too high in spots. Mine did in some areas so I was able to correct it with the tape and mark it for later. You cant notice it when just looking at the planks but it would have been noticeable after the molding went on. Especially at the bow. It also helps me get consistent on both sides which your planking may not be perfectly aligned. I am going to go with a wider molding. Here is the contemporary model... Once the stern post is on it will complete chapter two....I am working on the written chapter right now. Shouldnt be long until I post it. Chapter three will consist of stern transom and quarter gallery construction.....fun times!!!

Looks good but I will go on record that your clamping is a really bad idea. The planks are too fragile for rubber bands and so are those this frames. There is a really good chance they will break under that pressure. Be very very careful....bending them is bad at all and because they are so thin its better to bend them off the model. Just my opinion... Chuck

Maybe somebody will jump in and become a supplier wood sheets???? I can no longer supply it because I just dont have the time to do so. Surely there is someone out there who has the means to mill sheets of Pear, Holly, and Boxwood. Its a good way to make a few bucks if you can do it well. Chuck

Wonderful News.......glad to have you on board!!! I am hoping to finish my planking this week if all goes well. Chuck

BF1 BF2 and BF3 are the are the small pieces at the bow...BF1 is just 3/64" thick cedar I believe. You can see BF 3 in the photo......BF2 and 3 are 1/4" thick laser cut ply. BF1 is cut from cedar on your 3/64" thick sheet. Its shown on the framing plan. Ask these questions in your log as more folks might have the same question. Not on my profile. I can actually see them on the plan hanging behind your model. Upper right side. They are on either side of the stem and frame where the bollards will go.

Im surprised it fit on that. But it looks good.😀

Welcome to the group. I am sure you will enjoy the project.

I would rather buy a Byrnes saw for that money. That is crazy at $400. Or buy another kit or two......or $400 worth of boxwood or swiss pear sheets. I am sure there are far less expensive way to cut basswood and styrene. Chuck

Looks very good. 😀

You can see the prices Jack gave on the wood several posts back. The price of the whole set of boxwood sculptures including the figurehead is $320, including postage. Order direct through Jack. Jujube $270, including postage too. Order Direct through Jack. Resin sets are $120....and discounted to $95 if you started a buildlog and are active within it and the other logs in the group....Order through Chuck in his online store. The resin carvings should be ready in a few weeks. I do have four sets now but I have to package them up and create a store item for them. I should be getting 20 more sets in a few weeks. Chuck

These people are just not bright. They must be printed with no scale......I just dont understand.....ugh. "as in document" Let us know how it goes. Chuck

Looks pretty good to my eye. Nice work. Its coming together.😁

Its great exercise!!!!😏

That is some very nice work. 😀 well done!! chuck

They are just cut from regular printer paper with a #11 blade. No adhesive needed. You can hold them against the bulkhead with one hand while you mark the tick marks with the other. I cut them around 5/16" wide. Chuck

Not really.... i think there would be too many variables. Having said that. I could be wrong too so you have nothing to lose by trying. The issue is how fairing will affect your marks as you would be adding them before fairing.

Really nice start. Good idea to build both stem/keel assemblies. They both look excellent. Now you just have to choose which one you want to use. chuck

So I received the first test batch of resin castings. They look fantastic. The detail captured is well above my expectations. My casting guy is a real master at this. There is also some very good news...the overall cost per set is actually much cheaper than I expected. So what you see pictured which is the complete resin set, will cost even less than I thought. The resin set will retail for just $120. As you can see it comes in a tan color already and it could be used as is. Just clean up what little spru marks you see. I will ship them as shown above which you can see has the figures still on the sprue. They need to be removed...but the spru tab can be used as a handle so I will leave them attached for shipping. You will also notice that one of the drops looks different, If you prefer a more natural wood look then apply the Old masters gel stain (fruitwood) with a brush. Then wipe it off immediately. This really makes it pop and is what I will be doing to them all. This is something I would definitely do if you are building in Cherry or swiss pear. So this resin set is a really low cost alternative to buying the milled wood versions. AND As stated earlier, for those have have active build logs, there is a participation discount. The set will be further reduced to just $95. But I will only give that discount to folks that have an active build log and who participate within the group showing progress up to chapter two completed. If you havent started a log then dont bother requesting the code... I should have them up for sale in a couple of weeks. Also note that I just took that photo with my phone. The stained drop is actually quite a but lighter and matches my figurehead which you have seen below. The arms must be glued on a steh figure comes in two pieces. I will take some better pics later with my camera. Chuck

Thank you guys...I appreciate the kind words.

Thanks Greg i havent decided yet. As always, i change my mind on that every day. The contemporary model has no trunnels. It looks beautiful and as you say, the same is true of many others. I have some time to decide so I once i finish planking the other side, I will push forward with the stern and quarter gallery construction and see what is looks like after that is completed.

Thanks Its no different than working with basswood in my opinion. Except it looks better and holds a sharp edge. You just need to be careful. If you are a rough builder then you will get some scuffs....but if you can lighten your touch then you wont have any problems.