Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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That is not a very educated and well thought out comment. 👎🏻 Thanks for explaining why. A “nonsense” comment. -
Here is a photo taken with my phone. They are a little dirty and banged up but I will clean them up before painting. Hope this helps. They are very tricky pieces to make.
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That looks pretty good. The angle looks a little severe but not that much. It should match the curved angle of the hull more or less....its why I laser cut three sets of parts for folks. But it looks pretty good. You might get a gap between your chock and bollards because of the difference in thickness with your plywood. You will need to make some adjustments before you glue them into position. Either make a wider chock....or build up the sides of your plywood filler pieces. My model doesnt have such a severe angle I will try and take a photo for you soon. But have a look at the contemporary model....you can certainly see a decent angle to the bollards. I am not crazy about the shape of the top of these though. Chuck
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Here is chapter two!!! Disregard any typos!!!!! Chaptertwo.pdf Dont hesitate to ask me any questions!!!!
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I am certainly no clean freak. But seriously it gets plenty dirty. Then I clean it up by sanding it lightly with some 320 grit sandpaper. Then I apply some wipe on poly. I am not really sure that I do much different then everyone else. I think the better question to ask is why some hulls appear to get so dirty. Perfect timing though guys as I am about to upload chapter two in the downloads area. With this out of the way I might get a start on building the stern and quarter galleries.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That is the absolutely right frame of mind to take. Its not a rush and should be an enjoyable process. The masting is developing nicely but as you said those deadeyes are looking pretty sloppy. Poor products placed in these kits have such a negative effect on what is otherwise a wonderful model that you are building. Slow and steady!!!
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- pickle
- caldercraft
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Lots of masking works and spray with a light coat with your airbrush (multiple coats). There are many ways actually but everyone has their own. I personally prefer a shot of vodka and then just free-hand it. But I know that isnt the best way to go. I will tell you this...surface prep has a lot to do with it. If your surface is smooth without a lot of bumps and blobs it will make things a lot easier. I would sand it as smooth as possible.....and then try a variety of methods until you find one that works best for you. Practice on some scrap first as well. Chuck
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Unfortunately that is typically the case....the cost would change that much for these folks and the kits would look so much better. I just dont understand it. Chuck
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Nice progress and thanks for the kudos on the rope.
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Tanganyika looks very good. Walnut would be much too dark with a noticeable grain pattern. The planking came out wonderful. Nicely done.
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uploading pictures
Chuck replied to David56's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
You can adjust the setting in your phone to take smaller photos. Thats what i did because then they upload faster. You can also create your post on MSW right on your phone. Then upload the photo from your phone right to msw. That what I did below. My stash of yellow cedar. Just got delivery of more wood sheets from the Syren Sawmill. Uploaded from my Iphone.
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uploading pictures
Chuck replied to David56's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
If you dont want to screw around with wires and draggingging and dropping etc......I usually just click on the photo in my phone and email it to myself. Depending on your phone you will be able to either email it or send the image in a text. Select the email option and send it to yourself. Then I open the email on my computer and download it for use. I am computer challenged also so my son told me to do it this way.....LOL. That is the easy way if your phone is set up for it..... -
Jim, That looks good, I hope that method works out for you. It does take some time but the results are worth it. That should make a nice smooth surface after the second layer for painting. Even though it will be painted when it comes time to plank a model that isnt painted you will be so happy that you spent this time on an earlier project. It is a beauty of yacht. Before you know it you will have only a few planks left to go!!!
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You are off to a great start!!! Welcome to the forum. One thing I would suggest with this kit is that you fill some of the space between those bulkheads. This is a well known kit for having the bulkheads spread too far apart which will make planking more difficult. At least maybe at teh bow and stern areas below the wales. I look forward to your updates. Chuck
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I am following along with much interest....keep up the fine work. Have fun with the sticks and strings!!!!
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Your doing a really fine job on the model. You will be masting and rigging in no time at all. If its your first time around with rigging a model like this you just might find you like rigging more than making the hull and deck fittings. I am sure you are going to have fun doing so. Chuck
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It looks good so far!!! 😀 i hate when life gets in the way of some workshop time as well. Glad to see you are back at it.
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I use a wood slicer for the Cedar and its great. Super smooth cuts. But I use the Laguna Resaw King for the boxwood. The Wood Slicer just gets too dull very quickly. I am happy with the Resaw King blade and its fine if I am only cutting sheets for my products.....if I were selling sheets though I would go through too many blades. I have tried getting them resharpened but they just dont work the same. Scares the crap out me when they break though. That can get hairy if any of you have experienced that. I use a 3/4" blade. They are 115" long. I have thought about alternatives but I am so used to these blades I know how they handle and when they heat up too much etc. So I am sticking with what I know rather than trying something new at this point. I have a guy that does most of my milling now though, so I dont do too much myself any more. But that alone makes it more expensive. I have plenty of Boxwood sheets on hand right now already milled. I just ran out of the billets. Will order more on Monday. Here is my current stash...each pile is a different thickness. You can see my last remaining swiss pear stash on the floor that I keep just in case.....
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I am not going to sell the 10/4 stock. The billets I get are 5" wide and 2 1/2" thick. You cant cut that with a Byrnes saw. You need a big bandsaw for that with a good quality resaw blade. I use a 2 horsepower laguna bandsaw. I am talking about just selling the milled sheets as listed above. There are lumber providers out there can sell you the billets should you need them like Gilmer and Rare Woods. I believe Gilmer current price is $40 per board foot. Chuck
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I do the same thing Lou...it works for me. I just set the fence once and start ripping.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Probably ....but based on the response I doubt I will move forward....I was just trying to do a good thing and offer up the service if it was indeed such a huge issue based on what I am hearing. I am going to place my order on Monday for some billets and will only get enough for my needs through the winter by the looks of it. I am personally more fond of Yellow Cedar now than boxwood now, so for me it isnt a real big deal. I like the overall look and color of it better. It just takes some adjustments to get used to working with it....but once you do, its a beautiful wood. And at a third the price. My Winnie in Yellow cedar is below in case some of you havent seen it all planked up in the group build area.!!!!
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