Chuck

Looks good but I will go on record that your clamping is a really bad idea. The planks are too fragile for rubber bands and so are those this frames. There is a really good chance they will break under that pressure. Be very very careful....bending them is bad at all and because they are so thin its better to bend them off the model. Just my opinion... Chuck

Maybe somebody will jump in and become a supplier wood sheets???? I can no longer supply it because I just dont have the time to do so. Surely there is someone out there who has the means to mill sheets of Pear, Holly, and Boxwood. Its a good way to make a few bucks if you can do it well. Chuck

Wonderful News.......glad to have you on board!!! I am hoping to finish my planking this week if all goes well. Chuck

BF1 BF2 and BF3 are the are the small pieces at the bow...BF1 is just 3/64" thick cedar I believe. You can see BF 3 in the photo......BF2 and 3 are 1/4" thick laser cut ply. BF1 is cut from cedar on your 3/64" thick sheet. Its shown on the framing plan. Ask these questions in your log as more folks might have the same question. Not on my profile. I can actually see them on the plan hanging behind your model. Upper right side. They are on either side of the stem and frame where the bollards will go.

Im surprised it fit on that. But it looks good.😀

Welcome to the group. I am sure you will enjoy the project.

I would rather buy a Byrnes saw for that money. That is crazy at $400. Or buy another kit or two......or $400 worth of boxwood or swiss pear sheets. I am sure there are far less expensive way to cut basswood and styrene. Chuck

Looks very good. 😀

You can see the prices Jack gave on the wood several posts back. The price of the whole set of boxwood sculptures including the figurehead is $320, including postage. Order direct through Jack. Jujube $270, including postage too. Order Direct through Jack. Resin sets are $120....and discounted to $95 if you started a buildlog and are active within it and the other logs in the group....Order through Chuck in his online store. The resin carvings should be ready in a few weeks. I do have four sets now but I have to package them up and create a store item for them. I should be getting 20 more sets in a few weeks. Chuck

These people are just not bright. They must be printed with no scale......I just dont understand.....ugh. "as in document" Let us know how it goes. Chuck

Looks pretty good to my eye. Nice work. Its coming together.😁

Its great exercise!!!!😏

That is some very nice work. 😀 well done!! chuck

They are just cut from regular printer paper with a #11 blade. No adhesive needed. You can hold them against the bulkhead with one hand while you mark the tick marks with the other. I cut them around 5/16" wide. Chuck

Not really.... i think there would be too many variables. Having said that. I could be wrong too so you have nothing to lose by trying. The issue is how fairing will affect your marks as you would be adding them before fairing.

Really nice start. Good idea to build both stem/keel assemblies. They both look excellent. Now you just have to choose which one you want to use. chuck

So I received the first test batch of resin castings. They look fantastic. The detail captured is well above my expectations. My casting guy is a real master at this. There is also some very good news...the overall cost per set is actually much cheaper than I expected. So what you see pictured which is the complete resin set, will cost even less than I thought. The resin set will retail for just $120. As you can see it comes in a tan color already and it could be used as is. Just clean up what little spru marks you see. I will ship them as shown above which you can see has the figures still on the sprue. They need to be removed...but the spru tab can be used as a handle so I will leave them attached for shipping. You will also notice that one of the drops looks different, If you prefer a more natural wood look then apply the Old masters gel stain (fruitwood) with a brush. Then wipe it off immediately. This really makes it pop and is what I will be doing to them all. This is something I would definitely do if you are building in Cherry or swiss pear. So this resin set is a really low cost alternative to buying the milled wood versions. AND As stated earlier, for those have have active build logs, there is a participation discount. The set will be further reduced to just $95. But I will only give that discount to folks that have an active build log and who participate within the group showing progress up to chapter two completed. If you havent started a log then dont bother requesting the code... I should have them up for sale in a couple of weeks. Also note that I just took that photo with my phone. The stained drop is actually quite a but lighter and matches my figurehead which you have seen below. The arms must be glued on a steh figure comes in two pieces. I will take some better pics later with my camera. Chuck

Thank you guys...I appreciate the kind words.

Thanks Greg i havent decided yet. As always, i change my mind on that every day. The contemporary model has no trunnels. It looks beautiful and as you say, the same is true of many others. I have some time to decide so I once i finish planking the other side, I will push forward with the stern and quarter gallery construction and see what is looks like after that is completed.

Thanks Its no different than working with basswood in my opinion. Except it looks better and holds a sharp edge. You just need to be careful. If you are a rough builder then you will get some scuffs....but if you can lighten your touch then you wont have any problems.

I did use wop from the beginning. It helps protect the wood and even hardens it a bit. Nice progress. The skeleton is coming together.

A milestone today....I finished the planking on the port side. That feels good!!! I still have 9 strakes on the starboard to go. I am happy with the results although as always you always tend to spot and focus on your mistakes. I am very happy with how the cedar looks on such a large subject. I will let you guys decide if you like it as a good wood to use on such projects. I have only used wipe on poly...I decided not to use the gel stain after seeing how the finish looks. The wales are a mess and will need to be cleaned up but I will wait until all of the planking is done. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel...BUT then there is the treenailing.....Ughh!! Comments and questions , dont hesitate. 😊

Looks fantastic Jack.....I should have my resin sets in about two weeks time so it looks like we will both be ready to go. Chuck

Nicely done!!! Glad to see you are back on track.

A little of both. You must fair the outside so you get a nice curve port to starboard. Once done you should fair inboard and reduce the thickness....but you dont have to thin all the way down. Just the top of the transom pieces should be 3/32" thick and they can get gradually thicker.