Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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Your ears must have been burning Druxey.....When permanently gluing the frames to the keel I thought the same thing and all of the top supports for each frame have already been adjusted for the kit. When folks buy the kit they will have the etched line as reference although technically speaking, once frame one is glued into position properly all the others follow suit after inserting the frame registration pieces in the notches. But it couldnt hurt to have them on all of the frame tops. I will instruct everyone to glue frame one in position before trying to tweak and create the port sills. Frame one can be used as an "anchor" of sorts when glued properly in position to ensure that all of the other frames are aligned while testing and tweaking the port sill pieces. At least it was very helpful for me doing it that way. Once all of the port sills are made and set aside the remaining six frames are glued in position permanently and the registration strips are added before the glue dries. That is going to be the actual sequence of events. Chuck- 130 replies
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Not a lot that you can see but plenty of stuff to move the project forward. I did however finish cutting/tweaking the notches for the port sills. This is tricky work and is probably the hardest part of the project. But if you go slow it will be fine. The laser etched notches for the sills are not as wide as they need to be. This was done on purpose because it will be inevitable that you will be tweaking these so the port framing is correct. In fact, to make this easier I used a template to mark the top and bottom of each sill for the ports and sweeps first so I knew where to start my tweaking. The process involves constant removal of the associated frames to make small tweaks and then installation and testing. When the port side was done, they pieces were labelled and then set aside. I repeated this process again on the other side. Then the frames were glued into position permanently and the two small frame spacers reinserted on top to register them again before the glue dried. Once the frames were set, I then glued the sills in permanently and faired the exterior of the first seven frames. It was helpful to make a support which can be seen under the frames. This protected the whole assembly while fairing the outboard of the frames. Then just for a test (I wont recommend this for other building the kit). I removed the inboard "Ear" tabs on the port side which held the frames together for the gunport. But before doing so I made sure the sills were well glued in position and not moving. I cut the tabs free and test faired the inboard frames on the port side. But it will be best to wait until after the outside planking and battens are added later to do this. This was just a test for me as I didnt want to move forward until I knew the concept worked......which it did. Chuck
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I agree....with regard to the laser cutter it is the alignment of the optics but also how clean they are. A dirty/scratched lens and mirrors will also hurt the overall effect. It is great that they have one though....very nice resource. I just ordered a bunch of parts for mine because I have been lucky over the last four years. Its only now showing signs of needing some TLC. I just ordered a new laser tube, lens and power supply among a few other things. $1700......but its well worth it. I am all thumbs with this electronic/electric wiring stuff though, so I am very nervous about doing the revamp. Should be running as good as new when its fixed up. But I have to look for someone who can assist me with it who knows their way around a machine like this. I have a few engineers and electronics guys in mind...but they dont know I just volunteered them for duty yet.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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No ...there will be no scribed or etched planks for me. There is nothing like planking with individual plans when its done with care. That is a shortcut that I will never take. Thanks Druxey!!!!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You have to plan for that...there are no gaps. You need to strategically flip some pieces when being cut so the angles match almost perfectly. For the stem parts I was able to flip some parts so the angles are nice and tight. You can see that I built the stem in two sections so that after assembly I did tweak the long curved edge so the seam was nice and tight but the individual elements went together better than if I cut them and tweaked them by hand. I do this to all of the parts and for the life of me I dont know why all kit MFGs dont do this. Note how the letters on the center section of bulkheads are on the other side....that was flipped when cutting so the joint fit perfectly without any need to sand them at all. The parts of the stem with the X's on them were also flipped on my file when laser cutting them.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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No pre-sales unfortunately....I am feeling stressed out as it is. I want to wait until this hull is planked before I start selling starter kits. I havent worked out the details yet but let me tell you...there are a lot of bulkheads and they are big. In addition to those, the starter package will include laser cut keel and stem parts, whatever strip wood is needed to frame the gun ports and stern along with the stern frames. Of course the plans as well. Basically everything needed to complete the skeleton so you can begin planking. My guess is it will be in the neighborhood of $150 give or take....plus shipping.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks...I still have to edit it. Its on the list of things to do. Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads and stern frames. All looks good to go for the next step. And just this one time only...I dragged out the old dusty and broken 3/16" scale version of the Winnie for a size comparison. They are lined up at the stern so you can see the difference. What a mess the old model is....full of dust and filthy as well as busted up a bit.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Wonderful work....very nice. Just catching up with your progress.
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That will be a seperate mini kit because they are easy enough to make on your own for anyone who wants to do so. No sense in forcing people to spend for more than they intend to use. I like to give as many options as possible if it makes it more economical. I would also recommend that everyone buys or makes a set of these because they can be reused for all models at this stage of construction. Its worth the time to make them. Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Oh it wont be too long hopefully now that I dont have to wait until the entire project is completed and a book is published and printed. I can release parts of the project as I complete them much like I did for Cheerful. Hopefully the starter package will be released shortly after planking has begun. I have attached the first chapter to give you guys an idea of what the monograph will look like. I am more than happy to answer any questions or embellish any parts of the monograph should more detail be needed. But this will at least give you guys an idea of what I am shooting for. I also wanted to mention again that I have many images of the contemporary model that I will be sharing along the way which I am sure no one has seen yet. Here is one showing the headrails and cheeks....I am getting really excited again to get into the thick of building this model. Chapterone.pdf Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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no that is just painters tape. It is used to just make the bulhead former fit tighter within the three brackets. i use painters tape a lot for this purpose because it can easily be removed later. The bformer is nice and snug now.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Just a quick update...Alaskan yellow cedar is being used for this model. The new 1/4" scale stem is now assembled onto the bulkhead former. The rabbet strip was added to the bulkhead former first (5/32 x 1/16). After that dried, the Bformer was beveled along the bearding line into the rabbet strip. Then the stem assembly was glued to that. Finally, the individual keel pieces which are laser cut were glued in succession along the bottom of the bulkhead former. To finish it off, the bolts were simulated using 15 pound black mono filament. I assembled some right angle braces that I designed for the build board to keep the false keel from twisting and bending. Now its time to laser cut those bulkheads and add them. To give you a sense of size...the build board is 36" long. Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That looks great....I should be catching up to you soon enough. I think the supports will keep your hull ...or any hull for that matter from twisting. Nicely done.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Just an FYI....had I mentioned it.....they would have never put the extra parts on the sheet. LOL...You wouldnt have got extra of anything. Chuck
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You will certainly change your mind Phil. Although small and inexpensive, the planking of the hull is certainly advanced and will give any model builder a really good challenge. Most beginners dont know what the word spile means and in order to plank this hull they fail to realize the extreme bends and plank shaping required. This is more evident when it comes time to plank inboard. In addition to this, the fragility of the hull and small parts also ramp this kits skill level up to advanced. This type of hull structure needs someone familiar with handling a model with a light touch which is something that requires some experience. Having said that, I will certainly watch and follow along as you build the model, and hope that your progress can help those who start to build their own. It shall be a very interesting progress. Tools are the easy part, since everything is laser cut and if you use the planks supplied....hardly any are required beyond the basic stuff as outlined in the instructions. Oh....I dont know what the eta is...but a 1/2" scale version is in the works from ME. This is what I suggested they do all along. But anyway, that one would make life a lot easier for folks. Might want to wait for that one. Chuck
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You could but nobody will see it. The molding strip will run along that seam and will be obscured or even covered. Lovely work.
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Dont plank cheerful like that....very different square tuck. Mine follows the original draft to the letter....you are doing a great job on her so far. Here is the square tuck from cheerful's original draft for the external planking. Cant get anymore correct than this!!!
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I actually waited til I had the flag staff so I could make sure it was straight when gluing it in. Thank goodness it takes a while for Titebond to cure which allows you to move the flag around while its in the step so you can get it straight.
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Very nice....and yes that is the exact reason I added extras. Same is true for the decorative panels.....you should be almost ready to add those too. You are moving along relatively quickly which is good. I see a Pegasus Cross Section Rusty beta test in the works for you!!!
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thank you very much guys. This is a fun project but it will no doubt be an advanced kit. But so far ....so good. Chuck
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I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!! I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Thanks!!! I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker. Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier. Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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That looks very very good. One thing you can do that I recommend is to spray the painted surface with dull coat or a matte fixative. Dont spray a heavy coat but several light coats from afar. This really evens out the painting and you wont see any brush strokes at all. It works a treat!!! And you dont have to worry about getting any on the unpainted cherry. It works there as well.
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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This is a poll of just registered members. Only members can vote. The most logical place for it is in the kit build log area and that is why it is there. This is the largest collection of build logs on any ship model site. The knowledge and expertise shared is quite valuable and it is something we want to encourage people to sign up for in order to see and take advantage of.
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