Chuck

Thank You... With the framing almost completed I was able to finalize all of the master carvings. I did the final prep work for casting. They will be sent off to be cast in a light tan like the Winnie carvings. I hope they can get some sets to me soon. Here is a look at the quarter badges. They are quite small actually. I will let my casting guys alter these because there are some areas that wont cast well. For example under arms of those tiny reclining figures. Those open areas will need to filled in order to cast these.

Thank you guys. Chuck

Looking good Rusty…Slow and steady. I am sure you havent built headrails like these before…let me know if you have any questions.

And if you would indulge me...I forgot that I should test the fit of the transom carvings as well. There were so many angles to hopefully get correct when developing them. Doing the transom as one piece was the only way to do it for Speedwell as the carvings are so intertwined. I was really nervous how everything would fit as it was very expensive to develop these. But I am relieved to say that the master fits perfectly. That is such a relief. I was so stressed about that. The curved transom as developed sits perfectly in place. No bending needed. The shape above the windows and their position also match really well.

Nobody is getting rich selling this stuff unfortunately...but its a living!!! Beats sitting behind a desk though....I prefer sitting in front of a workbench, LOL. So the quarter pieces are not that easy Greg!!! Ok yes they are... Basically there are two really not so hard things you must do to this piece before you glue it on the model. First....sand a bevel onto the inboard side. Not the outboard side with the laser etched reference lines.....the inboard side. If you bevel the outboard side side the piece will be ruined. Then step 2.....on the outboard side you have to bevel a few parts. The two tabs that sit against the last aft cant frame. And then the aft side of the piece. As shown below. Also note the reference marks for your fixed block and where the other aft cant frames will fall along the bottom edge. Then glue it on...thats it. The two tabs are flush with the outboard face of the cant frames. This means you will need to fair the outboard side of the hull before you add these. It wont work if you dont. At least not as well. Here are photos of both quarter pieces on the model. They have been faired on the outboard side as well although not completely. I will wait for those last few aft cant frames. And I couldnt resist just test fitting the transom piece. We wont need this for a while but if my design skills and concept didnt work for the hull framing and this didnt fit....then it would be firewood. But lucky me it fit just perfectly. The hull has ended up the perfect width and shape. I can finish up the framing with confidence.

No but if you add so many of a completed model where many views are almost identical it is like spamming. Think quality over quantity. And no under construction photos.

Thats not a very accurate method either. It flattens and widens each strand. The single best way in my opinion is to use a calipers. That is is you dont have access to a digital laboratory microscope which I do. Set the calipers first...if you are trying to make .018 rope, then set you caliper first and lock it. Most digital calipers have a screw to lock it so it reads .018. Then use a magnifier so you can get up close and see what going on. Hold the rope you made loosely so you are not stretching it. Try and place it in the calipers. Its that simple. If you use an optivisor and get close you can see very clearly if it slips between the space and just touches the sides. Without compressing. If it does so....you have .018 rope. If you see room on either side of the rope then its too small. If it doesnt slide between the calipers without any resistance and you can see the rope thickness compress....then its too big.

Really nice work on the rudder. It all looks as it should. Nice and neat.

Next up is the Wing Transom.... This is pretty straight forward. Especially after shaping all of those frames. This is laser cut but still requires some shaping because of the many angles. I removed the char from the top and bottom first before adding the provided templates. You can see the untouched wing transom in the photo as well. The top template is glued on with rubber cement. The top has the notches in it for the stern frames and quarter piece. Then the bottom template.. pretty easy so far. Then use a sanding stick to sand the bevels on each side using the templates for a guide. This will create the desired parallelogram shape. Then the wing transom is glued into position. Make sure your hull is vertical on the build board. Especially the stern post. Then use your squares to line it up with the build board plan. Make sure the height is the same port and starboard. Use titebond here so you have more open time to level this and get it all squared up. Then it is time to add the last "top jig". But before doing so, I must mention that the forked bracket will be removed that holds the stern post vertical. I know...its important. But seriously we wont be needing it any more. We will add the last top jig first and then remove the bracket immediately after. This way you can still use that string to check that this last jig is aligned and centered. The last jig is added just like the previous two others. Make sure its aligned down the center. Make sure its the same height port and starboard. You can use a string like before and a square. Once satisfied and taped in position along the puzzle piece connection, you can remove that forked bracket as shown in the photo below. This last top jig actually comes with two rectangular holes on top. There are two keys that slide into them which will now hold the stern post perfectly vertical. They are "T" shaped. Dont glue the keys in position. They are snug tight fit. Just push them into the holes. See how they holds the stern post vertical? You will want to remove the keys if you decide to turn the hull upside down to fair the hull later. It wont sit flat with the keys in position. But we only need to use them for a short time. Then the quarter pieces are added. Here is the one on the starboard side completed. I will detail how its shaped when I do the other side. I know this may look a bit odd to some folks but its all going to workout in the end. There are some laser etched bevel lines etc on these pieces and I will explain how they need to be handled and in what order. But basically, this quarter piece sits on the end of the wing transom (a notch is there so no quess-work) and the top is angled inboard to match the sloping sides of the hull. It sits against the edge of the "top jig" The forward end is glued to the aft face of the last cant frame. Note how it extends over the wing transom a bit further aft by about 5/64". That is correct on done on purpose. It will be important later when we do the square tuck. Having this all done and laser cut in one piece makes it a lot easier. The framing as you can see in the photo would have been tricky. Just read through Greg's log to see how tricky it is. I was initially going to just leave this part solid but then I decided to have a little fun. I made it look like the framing was actually there even though we are planking from the wales up anyway. We will add the remaining cant frames (really only half frames) soon. They fill in the bottom below this quarter piece. When faired and planked nobody will ever know. The hull framing is getting there!!! Nearly complete. And a snapshot of the working plan....just for clarification.

Thats it in a nutshell. You need to give it a tighter lay. Much more twists....but you are just guessing on the diameter. That is not how you should measure. Measure with a calipers....and much much tighter.... It looks great though

Only one more to go!!!

Just a quick update...all of the aft cant cant frames in this step have been completed. This includes framing the sill for the aft-most port and the frames there. Then I just completed the remaining few. Fairing was done on both sides as well. But I still have to add the treenails to those aft cant frames. I will do that first before moving forward to the next step. There are still a few cant frames left but that will be done in the next step... That will require a new jig along the top of the model for alignment and I must make the wing transom as well. More updates to follow soon. But its getting there.

Beautiful work

Such a beautiful Cheerful model. Looks fantastic.

That looks pretty darned good. A lovely project.

Actually I do very much. Problem solving a design concept is just as much fun for me. Its like solving any puzzle game. Although I dont know if folks building my designs would agree. I think they might be uttering some words as they try and build some of it, but hopefully the results speak for themselves once its all put together. Some of the solutions can be quite challenging. But I think they are also great teaching tools when it comes to other projects folks might work on when similar puzzles present themselves. We shall see when Mike and Rusty start getting into the framing of this if it all works out like it did in my head. LOL

Looking lovely.

Not really…I have been contemplating different POF design concepts for a while. So this is just a great subject to test those concepts out on. In fact, now that the hull framing is almost complete, it is pretty much just like any other project. Although I have some new ideas for certain features I want to try as well as some new materials I may test on the Speedwell. Its all about having fun with the design. The biggest challenge for this project will be later…when it comes time to mfg it. There are so many parts to make.

Work continues. Started on the aft cant frames. The first thing that needed to be done was to add the aft cant frame jig. This is added the exact same way as the fore cant frame jig. Glue the small laser cut square under the last cross beam. Then add the jig. The jig like all the cross bars are not glued. They are just taped together. That works very well. Make sure to line up the jig with your center line thread. You have the etched reference lines on the cross jigs to do so. But you will notice I also added the small cant frame strip for our first cant frame. That is aft cant frame 24. It is the last slot in the jig. You will need to line up the forward edge with the same mark on your base board plan. Lining up this jig so your cant frames are even on both sides is very important. As is making sure all your square frames were perpendicular to the keel and the same height etc, and all follow the center line. If for any reason you need to tweak this jig or any of the others, I have left some wiggle room. Do that before taping. In fact, if I didnt mention this little tip before, you can just add a toothpick as a shim on one side to adjust the aft jig until l you are back on the center line and your cant frames all line up with the base board plan. This is a neat trick you can use with any of the cross bar spacers for the square frames as well. It works really well to keep you on that center line. I exaggerated in this photo so you can see how to adjust any of them. Lining up the strip with the baseboard plan below... Then just like the fore cant frames are started working my forward after assembling each cant frame. They are made in two pieces. I have added six working my way forward. But now I will switch directions and start working from the other end of the jig for the next six. More pictures will follow when I get that done. Note how two laser etched lines on that last cant frame 24 face aft. Shown in red. That is important because we will need those to line up our some pieces later. Also not how the first aft cant frame on the jig I added, that same number 24...you have to make sure you place it in the correct deadwood slot. This is what the hull looks like at the moment. I will work on the remaining aft cant frames this weekend. Im getting close to completing all the hull framing. It wont be long now.

You dont have enough posts to sell stuff yet. Folks need to get to know you first and you must be a member in good standing. You must have at least 25 posts to sell stuff. This helps us avoid people scammers who just sign up to sell stuff and do little else. Its to protect our members and we have been scammed before so this is what we did to help ensure we actually know who is selling stuff. You only have two posts with none making an introduction in the "welcome" forum so folks can get to know you. Chuck

Really looking good. Neatly and crisply crafted.

Wonderful model and I think you will enjoy Cheerful. In many respects it is an easier build. But just more stuff to do. I cant wait to followalong with your cheerful project.

Yes indeed, that looks great Eric.

That looks great...

Lovely photos Ben...cant wait to see more details on either project.