Chuck

Yes there will be one more cant frame and then one small filler frame which will sit against the forward edge of the fashion piece. Those should be easy enough to make and install. The fashion pieces were quite easy as well and after tweaking the laser cut file for them they fit perfectly. It was literally just a matter of sanding to the laser etched reference lines. Then gluing them in. I think the all of the remaining framing should be uneventful. In fact it will be very similar to the way the square tuck was handled on Cheerful. I am looking forward to planking very soon in the next chapter... For the last cant frame and filler the most difficult thing will be sanding the correct angle onto the frame that sits against the fashion pieces. But that angle is shown on the plans and can be transferred. I am hoping to make to those over the next couple of days. That detail is shown below...cant frame 28 and the filler. Chuck

Thanks....I would love to see your progress Dave. You should start a build log. Or at least post some pics of your progress. Chuck

Just a small update on the progress. Getting into the stern framing now. But first I needed to add 3 more aft cant frames under the quarter piece. The cant frames are self explanatory and the same as the others. Just sand off the char and add them. But before I added them under the quarter piece I had to glue a small block on the inside of the quarter piece on both sides. The block is laser cut and matches the shape of the bottom of the quarter piece. This makes the area thicker which we will need when we fair the inboard side. This will all be covered up on the inboard side so it wont show. It will be planked over on the inboard side. The small blocks will be faired along with the inboard frames when we do that much later. But it is probably a good idea to start that now and do a little preliminary removal of material. Its just easier to do at this point. I did it after gluing them in but they could just as easily be shaped before you glue them in. Now the stern framing starts. First up are the fashion pieces. These are very very complex. This hull has a square tuck much like the Cheerful. So to simplify things it will be made in two layers. Only the first layer will be added at this time. They are laser cut for you and 5/32" thick. There are laser etched lines on both sides. You can see how I faired the shape into it following the etched reference line. The two ends also need to be tapered slightly. I am talking very slight tapering to sit against the deadwood and under the wing transom. The other side of the piece has those etched reference lines. Just sand in the bevel to match on both ends. Then give it a test fit. I found it easier to test fit these while the hull was upside down. They will need to be 1/8" away from the stern post as mentioned. This was easy enough to do. I just drew a reference line in pencil. I used a 1/8" wide strip and held it against the stern post and just drew the line on the deadwood. When test fitting these the bottom will sit along the curved edge on the deadwood. Right along the bearding line. Try and get a nice clean and tight fit there. The top end will fit under the bottom of the wing transom. The aft edge is flush with the same on the wing transom. Then I faired them along with those last three cant frames I added. Its all coming together now. Just a bit more framing to go. Next up will be that last aft cant frame. It actually sits against the fashion piece we just added. This is why that needed to be added first. Then a small cant filler will be added which essentially finishes up all the hull framing. After that there are the stern frames and a few odds and ends to finish it all up.

No you are good to go as is....Just keep following the monograph chapters. Its coming along very well. You will be taking care of the inboard side of those outer stern frames in Chapter 3.....

I think your care in building her is what achieved that. Great work!!!

Solid hull projects are fantastic. There are reasons why you dont see any new kits being developed this way. First it is very expensive. The machinery alone and tooling required for each new kit is problematic. There are few people with that lost knowledge and expertise as well. In addition...the restriction on the size you can make a hull. This is why those old kits were so tiny. They were all so much smaller than folks like to build these days and the subjects were smaller vessels. Any frigates and such were restricted to 1/8" scale. You would need a huge machine and a whole lot of wood to make them larger. In addition, new builders just hate taking the time to properly shape the solid hulls. Using templates and chisels etc. They dont have the patience for it. So they are not very popular. In this world of instant gratification, they want a kit to be as close to a lego set as possible. Just assemble and do a mediocre job of fairing and got on with it. Unfortunately this is the case. Its a shame because there is a lot to be learned when you are presented with more "hand-work" on a kit. Like those old MS yellow box kits. There was so much "scratch building" required that by todays standards those kits would hardly be called kits. They just dont sell. It is much more cost effective to use plywood or MDF for a POB project. Yes the typical MFG should at least double the amount of bulkheads. But either way...as you said, it is very easy to fill the spaces between the bulkheads. That is if you are willing to take the time to fair the hull properly. It will take a lot of effort and elbow grease. Chuck

Looking great Mike...

Lovely results

Outstanding!!!

Excellent rope. And on your first try. You will never buy another package of rope again. The model is looking very good indeed. I am enjoying your progress.

Its looking great....Dont over think it. That can be paralyzing to a project. Just go slow and steady and it will all work out in the end. Chuck

Outstanding!!! Such a beautiful display.

Nope.. not at all

Only have brown mara 120 at the moment. But I could have laid this up tighter. sorry its upside down but that the only way the calipers would stay upright. I think the thread you are using is not actually the correct dia…for mara 120. Because I didnt even lay this up that tightly. The calipers are barely open at all. but either way….you are making beautiful rope. Glad you are enjoying the process.

It does look beautiful...If you need something thinner try and experiment with other threads. I dont know what to tell you about the size issue but it sure is fine looking rope that you are making.

Head to toe size comparison with the Winnie… Greg you are a madman to build her at 1/4” scale. You have my utmost respect at that size. I couldnt even imagine it.

Yes it will be sold just like the Winnie in Chapter sets. There are far too many parts to make a complete kit all at once. The framing that you see below (once its completed) will comprise the first two chapters. Although its a lot of parts still and I may break that into three chapter sets. Then others will follow. Keep in mind that because of its size and complexity this will not be a cheap project. Its almost the exact same size as the Vanguard Indy kit. She is a big girl. But this has so many more parts so you can get an idea of where this project may end up cost-wise. Figure in the range of "2 large". I wont know how much until its all done so its impossible for me to put a number on it....but just figure what it costs for the Indy and add a little bit more. I say this because I dont want anyone to start this project and be surprised by the cost as it continues. I am quite the terrible salesperson...but I am just being up front with you guys. This isnt being made in China so its going to be expensive to manufacture. Its not a project that can be rushed. So buying chapter sets over time is the best way to go.

Yes and I hand worked it to clean it up a bit and sharpen some details. But these are 3D printed. Chuck

They will do the trick. You guys will be so surprised at so small these are even for 3/8" scale. The model is a big girl however at nearly the same length as the Winnie. Just a wee bit shorter. But very narrow at the stern which gives it that beautiful elegant shape.

Thank You... With the framing almost completed I was able to finalize all of the master carvings. I did the final prep work for casting. They will be sent off to be cast in a light tan like the Winnie carvings. I hope they can get some sets to me soon. Here is a look at the quarter badges. They are quite small actually. I will let my casting guys alter these because there are some areas that wont cast well. For example under arms of those tiny reclining figures. Those open areas will need to filled in order to cast these.

Thank you guys. Chuck

Looking good Rusty…Slow and steady. I am sure you havent built headrails like these before…let me know if you have any questions.

And if you would indulge me...I forgot that I should test the fit of the transom carvings as well. There were so many angles to hopefully get correct when developing them. Doing the transom as one piece was the only way to do it for Speedwell as the carvings are so intertwined. I was really nervous how everything would fit as it was very expensive to develop these. But I am relieved to say that the master fits perfectly. That is such a relief. I was so stressed about that. The curved transom as developed sits perfectly in place. No bending needed. The shape above the windows and their position also match really well.

Nobody is getting rich selling this stuff unfortunately...but its a living!!! Beats sitting behind a desk though....I prefer sitting in front of a workbench, LOL. So the quarter pieces are not that easy Greg!!! Ok yes they are... Basically there are two really not so hard things you must do to this piece before you glue it on the model. First....sand a bevel onto the inboard side. Not the outboard side with the laser etched reference lines.....the inboard side. If you bevel the outboard side side the piece will be ruined. Then step 2.....on the outboard side you have to bevel a few parts. The two tabs that sit against the last aft cant frame. And then the aft side of the piece. As shown below. Also note the reference marks for your fixed block and where the other aft cant frames will fall along the bottom edge. Then glue it on...thats it. The two tabs are flush with the outboard face of the cant frames. This means you will need to fair the outboard side of the hull before you add these. It wont work if you dont. At least not as well. Here are photos of both quarter pieces on the model. They have been faired on the outboard side as well although not completely. I will wait for those last few aft cant frames. And I couldnt resist just test fitting the transom piece. We wont need this for a while but if my design skills and concept didnt work for the hull framing and this didnt fit....then it would be firewood. But lucky me it fit just perfectly. The hull has ended up the perfect width and shape. I can finish up the framing with confidence.

No but if you add so many of a completed model where many views are almost identical it is like spamming. Think quality over quantity. And no under construction photos.