Chuck

That looks great. It gets easier with practice. Just keep going.

Excellent work. Yes its challenging but to get results like that it needs to be. No chunky primitive kit-like pumps on your model. That looks like it was scratch built by an extremely experienced builder who took their time. WELL DONE indeed.

Lovely work Jim That is a very nice model of the Winnie. I hope you enjoyed the project. Chuck

I dont…as mentioned before I have others do that work for me. This is one thing I care not to learn. My brain just cant absorb any more. I have no idea what software package my guy uses.

No it is a 3d cad creation which was then 3d printed. I will do some final carving cleanup to add more detail and make them less “mechanical” and more carved looking. Like they were actually created/carved by the hand of man. More undercutting etc. I am making them less perfect, LOL. Hopefully. Then those masters will be sent for casting. I am working my way through all of the 3d prints as I write this.

Not for a while. Learned my lesson with the Winnie. I wont release any chapters until I am very very far ahead. Dont want folks catching up to me and waiting on me. I will however be setting Mike and Rusty up with parts very soon so they can help prove out my work before I release it. Look for their logs soon.

Can you post a picture?

Thanks Greg. I do like the look of the fillers but I dont think so. They are all different thicknesses so it would be a nightmare to laser cut them. I will leave that as a possible enhancement that folks can decide to do on their own if they want to.

Finally finished all of the square frames. That was a good day and a milestone. I have faired the outside of the hull pretty good but stopped short of the outmost frames because I didnt want to over fair. Those will be done as I work on the cant frames next. The forwards cant frames are next. I also did some preliminary fairing inboard where I could reach. Just a little to make my life easier when the time comes to do that later. I basically just repeated the instructions I already mentioned until all the square frames were completed. It is really important to check the heights and positions of the sweep ports and gun ports as you progress. I have provided the laser cut parts to simplify that and yes you can measure up from the baseboard to check their heights. But I was also using a template I created. I just havent showed it before in my previous updates. This will be provided on the plans. This in combination with those other means of measurement will really help ensure that your ports all end up where they are supposed to. The top of the template aligns with the sheer. The bottom of the template actually aligns with the top edge of the wales. The heights are most important for the ports and dont go nuts if your openings are a 1/64" to the left or right. It will all work out in the end. You can always fix slight issues before you start planking if you have to do some shifting. But I highly recommend that you use this template from the start of your framing to check the port positions as you progress. If you do this before you glue the actual sweep port fillers into position permanently (and the gun port sills), you can adjust them at that time to ensure the opening are in the correct spots. Then after you get a match glue them in permanently. Using the template is really the key to successfully and easily taking the guess-work out of positioning the ports. With any POF project there is a lot going on and a lot of parts. It is inevitable that some frames may not end up where you want them exactly. Thats OK and certainly it happened to me. You may get a slight bend in your frame etc. Your wood thickness might be a little over or under with your frames. Maybe a frame isnt perfectly perpendicular to the keel after it settles once glued in. Creep can be an issue after 20 frames etc. But regardless of where you frames end up you can easily manipulate the sweep port fillers and sills using the template to get them exactly where you want them. As you can see the framing looks perfect to the naked eye but I can assure you they are not...the template is your salvation!!! The hull is really shaping up after doing some fairing. I hope you guys and start to see the shape in the photos I have taken. I will take a few days to a week to get organized before I start on the forward cant frames. I want to prepare the parts files for final laser cutting up to this point. What you see in these pictures should constitute the starter package or chapter one. It will cost more than a typical chapter because there is so much wood and so many parts. But it makes for a nice start. I will also prepare all of the carvings for casting before I start on the cant frames so it may be a while before my next update....A couple of weeks maybe. Any questions or comments are welcomed. Chapter 2 begins really soon!!!

Very nicely done. That is some fine looking planking. Remember to flip the hull over every few strakes to check the run. You will be able to tell more easily if your planking has started to form dips and you must adjust the run. Especially at the bow and stern.

Great catch and fix....yu are well underway now.

Very nice indeed!!!

You could just use wood. Just rip a very very thin piece of cedar or boxwood. Use that instead of the black bands which are laserboard. Or even just paint the laserboard to match.

So nice…

That is looking so good. Werent those ladders fun to make? I dont know why I liked making those so much. But your model is looking excellent.

These Syren mini kit Barrels are 1" tall. ... and about the correct diameter you need. Hoops can be painted should you prefer a wood look...if you dont want to make them look like iron.'' They are made from Cedar. If this meets your criteria.

Time to put some meat on those bones. That a great foundation for planking.

That looks very good. Well done.

Nice start

It looks good. BUT its odd to me why you would glue the black strake on before you glue the second layer of wales on. And the 1st layer above the black strake. Was there a reason why you decided to do it that way? When you sand the layer above the black strake it may very well screw up the black strake. Just me thinking out loud. But I suggest to stick with the order mentioned in the monograph chapters. You may run into issues later on.

Beautiful work....quite an inspiration.

Nicely done

Wonderful work...just beautiful.

The contemporary model is the original primary source for the carvings. It was a very important model and made at the time the original ship existed. So there is absolutely no reason to believe they are an accurate representation of what actually appeared. You cant get better than that. To use anything else would be far more speculative and unlikely. I would absolutely encourage you to start your own build log so any questions you might have would be asked there. It would also be better for the group to see your progress. Join the group....dont be shy. Chuck

Dont forget... if any of you didnt know, that you should see a link at the top of your page on the right side. A great way to instantly see all the new posts so you can easily scroll through them. It even shows pictures if there were any. A great way to quickly scroll through and see the good stuff. Its the first thing I click on when I visit the site.