Chuck

Possibly yes. But I am far far away from that. That is a significant investment so it will come much later.

I wanted to show you guys a glimpse into the world of designing a kit. Especially one as complex as a fully framed project like the Speedwell. Its why I get so passionate about other folks just copying plans developed like this. It takes hours and hours to design each element. This forward cant frame jig is no exception. Its not like it ever gets done on the first try. This jig and all of the parts needed for Speedwell up to this point require a level of precision above and beyond a typical POB kit. I actually had to make about nine forward cant frame jigs before I was fully satisfied. Each iteration was tweaked just slightly and laser cut. It was tested and measurements taken from all angles.....then adjustments were marked and redrafted....and repeated. Here are some of the discarded jigs. All of them would have worked. But the last one worked best. Things should progress quickly now until it comes time to make the aft cant frame jig. Using a copy of the plans helps identify issues as well. Here you can see the working plan cut and in position and how it matches up pretty darn close to all the framing. Once drawn, you have to tweak the parts to account for the laser kerf and sanding of char etc.

Wonderful start.

Thank you guys. Its going well so far. You have to take your time to make sure the jig is positioned correctly initially. Measuring against the plan on the baseboard. But once thats in and the first set of cant frames firms up the assembly, it should be pretty easy with the remaining cant frames. I will use the same style of jig at the stern for the aft cant frames. Navarcus… yes I have considered that but what you show is a stylized version of framing. Its pretty but not how it was done on ships. Framing like that would make for an excellent model but also has its challenges. Its not what I would call easier. Its just different. But maybe for a another subject later.

Took a break from restocking inventory to work on the model. Forward cant frames.... The jig is first. BUT before you do anything, make sure the hull is positioned correctly on your build board. Line up the forward face of the last square frame with the corresponding lines on your baseboard. Slide it forward or aft if needed because you will be lining up the cant frame jig with your baseboard plan. Take the laser cut square shown below and glue it to the underside of the last square frame cross piece. The laser etched guide on the square should help you with positioning it. It will look like this. The fore cant frame jig is resting on top which will be added next. Place the cant frame jig in position. The "puzzle piece" connection was left a little loose on purpose to give you some room to adjust it. Not a lot...its not a sloppy fit. But there is just enough room to adjust it side to side based on what we will do next. This next step is super important.... Use your square to check that the notches in the top of the jig match the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard. The machine square I have actually fits right into the slots making this pretty easy. I got these from MicroMark. They are pretty common and if you have one this works perfectly. There is also a laser etched line down the center of the jig to help with alignment. The forward edge of each slot....should line up with the aft edge of the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard. This is important. Its worth mentioning it again. The forward edge of each slot....should line up with the aft edge of the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard. See below. Check this on both sides of the hull obviously. Try and get it as close as you can. Then tape the cant frame jig to the first square frame cross piece. Remember, there is some wiggle room so you can adjust as needed to get your slots lining up as close as possible. But dont be upset if they are off by a hair. Just get them as close as you can. Next up, and you will do this for every cant frame....take the two strips laser cut and marked "1", and glue them into the forward slots. Make sure the numbers face forward. Slide them all the way into the slots. This is also important. The top of these strips should be flush with the top of the jig. Note the laser etched line on the forward side. This line references the outboard edge of each cant frame. We are starting with the most forward pair for a few reasons. The most important being to help firm up the cant frame jig at the correct height and "lock" it into position. Every cant frame after this first pair will also have a corresponding numbered strip. You will be progressing aft with one cant frame pair at a time. Just like this. You can see below how this jig will work. I have placed the square against the strip. Note how it rests against the forward edge of the strip and at the same time...The bottom of the square shows it lining up with the cant frame drawing on the baseboard. The angles match. We are talking about the aft edge of the cant frame. The cant frames will all sit against the forward edge of those numbered strips. Below you can see the forward pair of cant frames glued into position. I of course sanded the char off the edges first. But dont sand the heel of the cant frame. Only remove the char from the inboard and outboard edges. These frames are cut to length with tight tolerances so dont sand the heel end that gets glued to the angled wedge on the apron. Note how the outside edge of the cant frame lines up with that laser etched reference line that was on the numbered strip. Also note that the top of the cant frame is flush with the top of the numbered strip. This first cant frame is important because it locks the jig in at the correct height as well and stiffens it all up. One down and ten to go. Repeat this process working aft with the remaining cant frames. Remember to just work on one cant frame pair at a time. Some of these forward cant frames are made in two pieces with a simulated chock like the frames. We shall discuss this when I get that far. Next up will be cant frame "2". You can see the numbered strips sitting on top ready to go. But now that the jig is in position its pretty easy and should go quickly. No need to sand the bevels into the heels of each cant frame. All you really have to do with each cant frame is sand off most of the laser char on the inboard and outboard edges and glue it into position. The apron has all the correct angles in for each cant frame already. Let me know if you have any questions.

Its looking really good. That is a good decision...just follow the instructions and you will have a smooth run of it.

Looking great!!😊

Be careful.....that could be deadly!!!

nice save

Its looking good…dont be afraid to sand the hell out of it. It will look fantastic.

Nice progress.

Wonderful work. Chuck

Outstanding 😊

Yes its crazy….if I really push it and do a 12 hour day I could prob make about 2000…..of the smaller sizes. But its not fun work. So 1000 or even 1500 will have to do. I have tweaked my process as I learn the technologies. I am sure other mfg’s can make them quicker but I think I now have a solid technique and process. it does mean however that I must redo the cad files I use for the blocks which takes forever, but I only need to do that once for each size. Each size also needs its own jig and hold down device…designed…laser cut and built. But again, I only have to do this once and then its pretty routine. The new process is quicker and produces a cleaner well shaped block. Believe it or not, the idea came to me one night around 3am when I couldnt fall asleep. I sprung out of bed and made some notes…worked on it the next day. And to my surprise it works a treat and makes it easier for me once the initial setup is completed. The craziest stuff pops into my brain in the wee hours of the morning. Its nuts.

That looks very good indeed. I cant wait to see them on the model.

Lovely progress....well done. A pleasure to follow your log on this kit. Chuck

That is a great plan. I have often wanted to build another with the frames exposed so it will be so nice to see one finally built that way. A tribute to your care in planning that everything lines up as it should. Well done!!

I think they look great. Glue them on.

Its all in the monograph chapters....just read through it....Carefully.

Thanks guys....Its crazy. Just made those 3/32" single blocks two days ago and they all but gone. So before I can make the next size I have to doubleback and make more. Im never going to get done at this rate.

It looks great so far. Keep going.

You are using Cotton, linen line so watered down PVA or elmers glue is fine. I see those Winnie bulkheads on the shelf!!! Chuck

I am starting a new topic as the last one just got huge....over 2000 replies. Its fitting that I would do so today actually. Today marks ten years since I have started Syren. Its been a long and interesting journey. Ten years and miles and miles of rope made and thousands and thousands of blocks sold. Here's to the next ten years. Maybe not that long, LOL. For a bit of news....I have finally received the parts to maintain my CNC Mill. So blocks are on tap over the next few weeks. In fact I have already started. 3/32" singles and doubles are now in stock. More will follow. Although half of the 3/32" singles already sold out. UGH! Onward and upward as they say. Chuck

Thank you!

That looks great. It gets easier with practice. Just keep going.