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Everything posted by Chuck
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I agree Druxey but as you said it does mimic the old contemporary models. I imagine I did speed up the darkening with age for this version of the frieze. But I am shooting for that contemporary look as I always do. I guess the older I get I also like my models to have a bit of patina, LOL But rest assured there will be that shiny new traditional blue folks are fond of.
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I am sure there will be those that hate it...whether blue or darker, and even a red field. The friezes are certainly something that is a personal thing. I saw so many variations of friezes at the Rogers Collection. I encourage everyone to get out of their comfort zone...it was tough for me but things can get stale fast otherwise. Just a few close ups as I took many. These are dark ones.
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Ok some better pictures now that the starboard side is finished. When I finish the molding and friezes on the port side chapter 3 will be completed. Chapter 4 will entail finishing the stern outboard to a certain point. The carvings and moldings etc...along with the rudder. Once that is all done I will start on the interior platforms and fittings. That will be chapter 5. Now I have decided to go in a decidedly different direction with the friezes. I was unexpectedly inspired while down in Annapolis. Seeing the Rogers collection always does that for me. I was inspired by a few contemporary models for ships of the same size which actually had very dark blue or almost a black/brown field for the friezes. Yes I still like the tradition friezes you always see on models of the period which have a lighter blue field. But I have done that so many times it has grown tired for me. So I developed yet another frieze choice with a darker field. This was frieze on my model is actually developed from photos I took of the contemporary model in the Rogers collection...brought into photoshop and repurposed for Speedwell. Placing them both on the model...the more traditional blue and this newer inspired design, I decided to go out on a limb and take a chance on it. So far I like it very much. Both colors and choices will be made available when I finally release this model as kit. I will try and release the first installments once I get chapter 4 completed. I hope to anyway. That is my plan.
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Wonderful progress. I remember the same feeling at that point. Seeing those pumps in position and the deck beams completed really make the model look different. It energized me to move to chapter 8!!!!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Same here Druxey...Maybe its just nostalgia but I think I actually prefer my original blocks too. But in fairness, I learned so much during the process of trying to perfect block-making over the past year. I think my original hand-made blocks are even better this time around because of that work. And you cant beat them for the price. I dont worry about the strop groove because once the block is stropped you cant see it anyway. It will take me a little while to make them in all sizes but I am happy report that I have some help this time around. CNC is very slow....and there is so much more waste in terms of wood use than my old hand-made method as well. So there are benefits to still making them as well. This is why in spite of them being made by hand I can offer them up much cheaper. I outsource the CNC blocks and they can make about 500 blocks max per day at this point. When I make them by hand I can do around 1200 to 1400 blocks. How crazy is that? Especially nice when my son-in-law is making a batch, LOL. Chuck
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1/8" single BARGAIN blocks are now in stock. I will finish this batch of 1200 blocks tomorrow and start on doubles. While I was busy packaging them up I decided to do a comparison photo between my Original Hand Made BARGAIN blocks and my new CNC blocks ...both are 1/8" single. In addition I added a Dry-dock single of the same size and took a brutal close up photo with my phone. I dont know what all the fuss is about with the other guys blocks. I only had a package of their pear versions...if that is actually pear I dont know. In addition I was pleasantly surprised at how close my old hand-made blocks look to my new CNC versions. I am glad I have help now to make both so its not a chore to make either of them. Having worked for the last 10 months at those CNC blocks it certainly help me improve my skills when it came time to make them by hand again. I hope you dont mind me saying that I am pleased with the results for the hand-made Bargain blocks. Photo Just for fun!!!
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
Chuck replied to Erik W's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
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You have my older rope packages. A few years ago I decided to make the rope lengths longer but keep the price the same. Just to give folks a bit of a break with inflation and rising costs. I am still maintaining those prices. Yes that is 29 to 30 feet. My store will reopen sometime today. I just returned from a trip to Annapolis and the Navy Yard Museum. Below for example is the Crypt of John Paul Jones. Chuck
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Its been a while since I worked on Speedwell. But I managed to steal some time to get some minor progress done. The next step was to permanently add the stern lights. I glued the laser cut stern lights together as shown. There is a little top portion that is glued on top of the larger laser cut stern lights. In addition, there are three laser cut cedar inboard pieces shown on the top of this image. The aft side is painted black/Gray where the stern lights are false. Meaning they wont be windows you can see through. It may be difficult to tell but the stern lights are placed in the appropriate openings from the inboard side first. Then some laser cut acetate used to simulate the window glass is placed in the same openings from the inboard side. Lastly the painted laser cut pieces are placed on top as the final layer with the painted gray portion facing outboard. With these glued into position I will be able to plank the inboard side of the hull next but only the two strakes along the sheer. Instead of doing that however I decided to add the sweep port hinges and horse shoe plates to the outboard side of the hull. This can be done whenever you like really but I figured why not do it now that I am in the mood to see the hull with some details. The sweep port hinges are available as a laser cut min kit. I have several sizes but these are the "large" hinges I have developed. One package is enough for Speedwell.
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Excellent progress. chuck
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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