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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Yes...they work great BUT.....BUT, the adhesive is very strong and it isnt easy to reposition and slide them into place nicely. Thats why I prefer to use a glue stick which has an open time and lets you slide them around. Chuck
  2. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/93-general-project-discussions-on-planking-fittings-and-monograph-chapters/ That link above takes you to a tab that can be found above the build logs.......see it highlighted in white below in this screenshot. There seem to be a lot of folks who have forgotten about this areafor the group or recently joined and didnt see it mentioned on the "how to join this group" topic. So browse anything you might have missed and feel free to join any of these IMPORTANT discussions. Also start new ones if you need to because its easier to find a discussion on a particular Winnie topic here than hunting through all of those build logs. This area is being way under utilized as a source. Chuck
  3. Looking good....dont forget to simulate the caulking between deck planks. You are well on your way.
  4. Nope I dont actually know. But its not anything you will need. But I am sure you can figure it out from the original draft if you find a reason to need it. They are NOT level across that bulkhead and are purposely at different heights and angles.
  5. Some of you guys are way overthinking these stern set ups. The best way to line things up and get things level is to work from the other side. View the stern frames and fillers from the outboard side. One step at a time working from the inside two stern frames placing the fillers and frames in position. Use the template to mark the heights ahead of time. I see so many errors in your placement you will certainly have issues with the way you are proceeding. Just attach each template to each stern frame to establish the heights for the sills and fillers. Then proceed to place each filler and sill between them working from the inside out.... Place the number 3 filler first and then the sills above and below it... Then proceed to #2 and #4 And lastly 1 and 5. Getting a visual from the outboard side at each step. Chuck
  6. It looks OK. Its hard to tell in photos if everything is lined up where its supposed to be but it looks just fine. Chuck
  7. Looks nice...one thing I do recommend is that the blue paint on the stern transom shouldnt be used at full brilliance or saturation. Its too bright and blue....Before you add anything else I do recommend that the blue paint there be toned down with just the smallest amount of white mixed in to it to lighten it up. Iamof course suggesting some white mixed with the blue on your pallet before you paint. Just a smidgeon....it helps a lot. Chuck
  8. I am a big proponent for not mixing wood types. My preference is always to use the same wood for hull and deck. But I am old school and tend to look at and admire the contemporary models which mostly did the same.
  9. Burn it off. Run it through a candle flame quickly! it will be nice and crisp.
  10. I am having trouble following your question without pictures. Try just following the monograph. No need to switch it up. Just read ahead if you need to. it is all covered. Finish up the stern as indicated. I believe you are being too cautious and may be overthinking things a bit. No need to develop a new method as you can see by the many build logs....it all worked out wonderfully. Remember the first time you tried to develop a new approach with the stern? Dont be afraid to finish thing up when its stated to do so. As you may be screwing the pooch down the road. There is usually a reason why I created the order and approach back at the stern and it was to hopefully avoid issues later on. But show some pictures and lets see what you are referring too. Just use the template showing the stern frames and if yours line up you are good to go. Then fair them to the dotted line or even a bit further as shown on the plans... Chuck
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