Chuck

BOO-HOOO
 
Ron.....You really must do a log.....dont be shy,  it would be a real treat to follow.  I know how inspired you have been and how much help MSW has been for your own model building progression....why not pay it forward?
 
Chuck

BOO-HOOO
 
Ron.....You really must do a log.....dont be shy,  it would be a real treat to follow.  I know how inspired you have been and how much help MSW has been for your own model building progression....why not pay it forward?
 
Chuck

BOO-HOOO
 
Ron.....You really must do a log.....dont be shy,  it would be a real treat to follow.  I know how inspired you have been and how much help MSW has been for your own model building progression....why not pay it forward?
 
Chuck

BOO-HOOO
 
Ron.....You really must do a log.....dont be shy,  it would be a real treat to follow.  I know how inspired you have been and how much help MSW has been for your own model building progression....why not pay it forward?
 
Chuck

BOO-HOOO
 
Ron.....You really must do a log.....dont be shy,  it would be a real treat to follow.  I know how inspired you have been and how much help MSW has been for your own model building progression....why not pay it forward?
 
Chuck

Have been busy making hatches, coamings and gratings for the gun deck.  These are all permanently fixed to the false deck and will be planked around.  I used simple lap joints for the corners.  The gratings were supplied laser cut.  The hatch with the pull rings used eyebolts and separate rings made from fine black annealed wire.
 

 
The corners were slightly rounded above planking level.  All are basswood and were stained with diluted Golden Oak.  The bottoms were sanded lightly to match the curvature of the false deck.
 

 
The treenailed platform behind the aftmost grating is for the capstan.
 

 
Just behind the foremast hole you'll see the coaming for the stove's platform.  This has not been set permanently on the deck as we now need to create a 'bricked platform' .  We'll take a closer look at this later on (after I figure out how to do it) .
 
Hope everyone is well and prepared to have some grog to celebrate the coming solstice
 
 
 
 

To start the planking, I added two strips on each side along the sheer.  This stabilized the hull.  It was pretty amazing how sturdy the whole thing got.   Then I just continued down the hull with a few more.   Then I switched directions and started adding them from the keel upwards.  I met somewhere in the middle to finish the hull.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The strips were pre-bent to fit the hull both edge-wise and to conform to the bow and stern shape.  When it was all done, I added teh stern post.   Then it was time to treenail.  I treenailed the hull using some Elmers wood filler. To help keep the treenails lined up I used some tape.  I ran the tape down the hull being careful to line up one edge on the center of a frame.   This was a challenge but I could hold the hull up close to teh light and see through the planking.  Then I marked the locations of all of the frames based on the shadows that shown through the planking. I drilled some tiny holes (#78 drill bit) and then filled them.   After sanding the hull I applied some wipe on poly
 

Twelve Pounder Chase Guns:
 
One of the first things that I was able to do after life started to slow down a little bit, was to start on two really small models.  I purchased a gun carriage kit form Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company.  I also purchased the beautifully turned brass 12 pounders to go with them.  I had so little time to spend on modeling in March, April and May, that these little models gave me the 5 minute fix that I needed every so often to keep me involved in the hobby.
 
I was very pleased with the products offered by the Syren Ship Model Company.  I have also since had the opportunity to try their blocks and rope, which were of equal quality.
 

 
I bought these pieces to replace the kit provided 12 pounders, though the kit long guns really are not that bad compared to the carronades that are provided.  I made the decision to use an all turned brass armament as a matter of taste, and as a matter or accuracy in the case of the carronades.
 
The downloadable instructions on the Syren Ship Model Company's website were easy to follow, and provided a clear path to not only put the pieces together, but also to add a few details to make the finished carriages all the more realistic.  Another nice touch, is that the carriage kit comes with a few pieces of boxwood stock to make pieces such as the quoin and it handle.
 
I used a 1/16" square piece chucked into my rotary tool, and a small file to produce the tiny handles.
 

 

 

 
Next I filed the quoins to shape, then drilled the correct size hole in the back of the quoin to accept the handle.
 

 

 
I also added a few of the details suggested in the downloadable directions, such as simulated bolt heads, and the suggestion of a two piece carriage side made by scoring a line across the piece.  You will notice in the picture of the completed carriage, that one of the "bolts" came through the inside of the carriage.  I have since fixed the problem, being a "bolt" that was too long, and forced into the pre-drilled hole.
 

 
I still have to install the gun retention straps, and associated ring bolts into the carriage, but I am holding out on that until it is time to install the finished cannon onto the deck.
 
More updates to follow shortly!

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

Roy - Bill - Jason - Barry - Tom - David - Ken - Jim - Tom - Larry
 
The SMS-NJ recently had a custom Admiralty Models workshop on rigging. This very successful 2 day event was hosted by one of our members at his house. We covered a lot of the same ground as their most recent workshops in Baltimore and NOTL but also added some custom material tailored to our needs. Everyone came away from this workshop with a deeper understanding of advanced rigging techniques. Having the workshop locally enabled attendees to save the cost of hotels and restaurants.

We have been advocates of David and Greg since the very beginning because of their ability to make difficult modeling concepts more understandable to ship modelers of all skill levels. In our group we had modelers that are working on their very first kit, others that are kit bashers as well as several scratch builders working on ships like the Warrior and Liverpool. If you are looking to advance your modeling skills you owe it to yourself to check out Admiralty Models.

If you are a member of an active club with members that would like to better their ship modeling skills contact Greg or David about a custom workshop in your local area.

I just received a package of dead eyes from Syren Ship Models http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/.  Beautifully done and consistent throughout.  Good work Chuck.
Maury

It wasnt always painted black....historically it was sometimes left natural...black or even another color.   I have seen images/paintings/models within classes of ships with a different look  and paint scheme.  I think it was up to the captain or admiral within reason.....depending on the time period.  This is certainly true in the early US....

It wasnt always painted black....historically it was sometimes left natural...black or even another color.   I have seen images/paintings/models within classes of ships with a different look  and paint scheme.  I think it was up to the captain or admiral within reason.....depending on the time period.  This is certainly true in the early US....

Nautical Research Guild Summer Issue is in the mail.

Become a member and get it delivered to your front door every 3 months.

 

Here are some highlights including the table of contents.

 



 

 
3D Printing and Model Ship Building
by Patrick Matthews
 
USS Arizona
by Oren Long, Jr
 
The East Indiaman Edwin Fox of 1853
by Ian Poole
 
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
Coppering the Fleet and an American Entrepreneur
by Louis Arthur Norton
 
Building HMS Isis of 1776: Highlights of a Multi-Year Project
by Byron Gore
 
Modelers’ Gallery
 
Shipbuilding Literature in the Netherlands (1671-1838), Part 4
by Ab Hoving
 
 
SHOP NOTES
Making Dowels
by William E. Sproul 
 
MODELERS’ REVIEWS
An 8-inch Shear from Harbor Freight Tools
by Steve Wheeler
 
The 3D Elbow Bender from UMM-USA
 
Click here to read one of the articles....
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
And here is a look at at one of the models featured in this issue.
Click on that photo to enlarge it and see what a great model Byron put together.  Its stunning.
HMS ISIS
by  Byron Gore
 

 
For more info on the Journal and the NRG please visit the website.

Woo hoo, five copies for my mother!  (in re: My article on 3D Printing).
 
I'll also be giving a talk on 3DP at the NRG conference, October in St. Louis. See you there.

They are as blind as a bat.  Your model deserves a gold Chuck, bring it to Manitowoc next year if you can make the trip.

Honorable mention????  What????   David is right, they are all blind bats... and idiot ones at that.  Sheeeeshhh.....

Philly at the Fair.
 

I got some horrendous "blooms" from reflection.  Sunday (when I am back at the Fair) I will see If I can remove the case and get some shots.  Meanwhile, I tried to blot out the worst of them.
 

I managed to eek out an honourable mention.

Wee hours of the Morning, Thursday 29 May.  'Tis mere hours before I have to deliver the model to the County Fairgrounds.  All nighters are not as easy as they used to be.
 

Work on the awning structure is pretty much as complete as it is going to get.  I still need to add the rolled up awning, sweep rack and sweeps, but that will have to wait until the Fair is over.
 

Rigging is complete! Hoist the ensign and we sail into battle!!! 
<poop> No sail.  We row into battle
<poop>  No sweeps.  We get towed into battle...Call AAA. 
 

 
This page will be on hiatus until after July 4th, when I get PHILLY back.  I will complete the model and get pics posted.
My intent was to get a good set of shots prior to taking the model to the Fairgrounds from work....but I forgot my camera.

The awning structure-in progress.
 

We have steering!!!!!  The rudder still needs a little refinement, but it is functional.

Progress on the beakhead planking - i decided on the more defined,darker trenail simulation

The inboard wall of the beakhead - no trenailing on the planking. I did a test piece with trenails, but these vanished once the red colour was applied.

A batten to align the gunport sills and lintels

Spacers keep the gunport height constant

Looks like a good,pleasing to the eye, line of gun ports

Top rail

Nice curve

To start...the slotted false keel was tapered from the bearding line to the outside edge.  This created a simulated rabbet once the two keel pieces were cut to shape and glued into position.
 

 
Then the 16 bulkhead frames were added.  I had these laser cut to save time.  They were designed in a way that the center sections are removable.  They are held to the frames by small tabs.  Once the hull is planks I will file through the tabs and snap out the center sections.  Care must be taken to square up the bulkheads with the keel and ensure they are straight so the the proper hull shape can be obtained.  You could further stabilize the bulkheads by gluing a temporary batten across the tops of them which will be removed before I start filing the center sections free.  But I am not a heavy handed builder so I just started fairing the hull immediately.  I use d alight touch while beveling the outside edges of he bulkheads.  The transom and bow fillers were added just prior to the start of planking.
 

 

 

Nautical Research Guild Summer Issue is in the mail.

Become a member and get it delivered to your front door every 3 months.

 

Here are some highlights including the table of contents.

 



 

 
3D Printing and Model Ship Building
by Patrick Matthews
 
USS Arizona
by Oren Long, Jr
 
The East Indiaman Edwin Fox of 1853
by Ian Poole
 
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
Coppering the Fleet and an American Entrepreneur
by Louis Arthur Norton
 
Building HMS Isis of 1776: Highlights of a Multi-Year Project
by Byron Gore
 
Modelers’ Gallery
 
Shipbuilding Literature in the Netherlands (1671-1838), Part 4
by Ab Hoving
 
 
SHOP NOTES
Making Dowels
by William E. Sproul 
 
MODELERS’ REVIEWS
An 8-inch Shear from Harbor Freight Tools
by Steve Wheeler
 
The 3D Elbow Bender from UMM-USA
 
Click here to read one of the articles....
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
And here is a look at at one of the models featured in this issue.
Click on that photo to enlarge it and see what a great model Byron put together.  Its stunning.
HMS ISIS
by  Byron Gore
 

 
For more info on the Journal and the NRG please visit the website.

Something lik e that is better cut from a wide piece to the proper shape.
 
 
Chuck

Nautical Research Guild Summer Issue is in the mail.

Become a member and get it delivered to your front door every 3 months.

 

Here are some highlights including the table of contents.

 



 

 
3D Printing and Model Ship Building
by Patrick Matthews
 
USS Arizona
by Oren Long, Jr
 
The East Indiaman Edwin Fox of 1853
by Ian Poole
 
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
Coppering the Fleet and an American Entrepreneur
by Louis Arthur Norton
 
Building HMS Isis of 1776: Highlights of a Multi-Year Project
by Byron Gore
 
Modelers’ Gallery
 
Shipbuilding Literature in the Netherlands (1671-1838), Part 4
by Ab Hoving
 
 
SHOP NOTES
Making Dowels
by William E. Sproul 
 
MODELERS’ REVIEWS
An 8-inch Shear from Harbor Freight Tools
by Steve Wheeler
 
The 3D Elbow Bender from UMM-USA
 
Click here to read one of the articles....
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
And here is a look at at one of the models featured in this issue.
Click on that photo to enlarge it and see what a great model Byron put together.  Its stunning.
HMS ISIS
by  Byron Gore
 

 
For more info on the Journal and the NRG please visit the website.