Chuck

Some notes about the companionway that I will be building next.  It is a typical companionway.  They are all similar.  Some have a more sloped top.  But I drafted the profile shown on the original draft which was pretty square.  I am sure you could alter it to suit and it would be reasonable and OK. 
 
But one thing I noticed that was different from contemporary models and not consistent.  Some Companionways did in fact have a coaming while other did not.  Some had wide coamings that stuck out as i built for the skylight.   But I decided to model a coaming that way for the skylight on the assumption that some were portable and could be lifted out and replaced with a simple grating for air circulation.   But the Companionway is different.  My plan shows it with a  thick coaming but I may model it without as in the example provided (Second drawing and photo).  This way anyone building her can have more visual info and can decide which they want to choose.  I guess you can say the image below still shows a coaming but it is just not wider than the companionway which I have seen in other examples.  There are such a wide array of different configurations it can get confusing.
 
I welcome any discussions about it.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Some notes about the companionway that I will be building next.  It is a typical companionway.  They are all similar.  Some have a more sloped top.  But I drafted the profile shown on the original draft which was pretty square.  I am sure you could alter it to suit and it would be reasonable and OK. 
 
But one thing I noticed that was different from contemporary models and not consistent.  Some Companionways did in fact have a coaming while other did not.  Some had wide coamings that stuck out as i built for the skylight.   But I decided to model a coaming that way for the skylight on the assumption that some were portable and could be lifted out and replaced with a simple grating for air circulation.   But the Companionway is different.  My plan shows it with a  thick coaming but I may model it without as in the example provided (Second drawing and photo).  This way anyone building her can have more visual info and can decide which they want to choose.  I guess you can say the image below still shows a coaming but it is just not wider than the companionway which I have seen in other examples.  There are such a wide array of different configurations it can get confusing.
 
I welcome any discussions about it.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Yes it will be....Probably not for a week or so however.

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thanks,
 
Today I started making the coamings for the hatch gratings.  There are three,  but only two need coamings.   The main hatch is shown here.  The second smaller grating will be just aft of the windlass.
 
The gratings were made using the Syren grating kits with camber already built in them.
 

 
Then the coamings were built up around the finished gratings.  Too often I see folks build the coaming following the plans and then when it comes time to add the grating it wont fit.  Sometimes you end up with holes along the coaming or have to shave down the grating too much to fit it into the coaming.  By building the coaming around a finished grating I wont have this issue.  Now my grating may end up being a hair larger or smaller than the plans but that is less important than having it look correct.  We are talking about maybe .025" larger or smaller...thats acceptable.
 

 
The coamings were made with the usual lap joints.  Note the fore and aft sides have a roundup.  These coamings are 1/4" high.  Others will be less and not as thick...they are all different but for the two gratings the coamings are 1/4" high x 3/32" thick.  But dont forget that the planking will go around them so only 3/16' will be above the planked deck.
 
Then a right angle jig was used to round off the corners except for what will be the bottom 1/16".   The jig is 1/16" thick which will be the same thickness as the planking.  I added a strip inside the coaming on the port and starboard sides to create a lip to support the grating as well.  
 
 
 
To finish it off I softened the hard corners all around the top edge of the coaming.   I may or may not paint the coaming red and leave the grating bright.  But I dont know yet.  I have seen Cutter models done both ways.   There will be a lot of other deck fittings painted red so I dont want to go overboard... .  Tomorrow I will make the coaming for the smaller grating behind the windlass.
 

 

 
Chuck

There is none.  Its actually a small scuttle.  The grating is flush with the deck planks and just sits on top of the beams.  That is going to be glued down right where it is and planked around it.
 
Chuck

Yes it will be....Probably not for a week or so however.

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Yes it will be....Probably not for a week or so however.

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

There is none.  Its actually a small scuttle.  The grating is flush with the deck planks and just sits on top of the beams.  That is going to be glued down right where it is and planked around it.
 
Chuck

Yes it will be....Probably not for a week or so however.

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

That's a nicely made skylight Chuck..  You said you made a kit out of it, so does that mean it will be available for purchase, along with the other additions to the Cheerful? 
 
Cheers 

Beautiful detail, Chuck.
 
John

Yes it will be....Probably not for a week or so however.

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.