Chuck

Lower hull planking progresses. Chuck says that Cheerful can be planked without spiling by edge bending the planks (and has proved it beautifully on his own model). Well, so far, so good. I have now done the upper belt of the port side lower planking. While it doesn't look anywhere as good as Chuck's, I'm reasonably satisfied. 
 
Each plank was first tapered, then bent, then edge beveled where necessary for a tight fit. I followed the butt pattern shown in the plans.I must admit that it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks, and I went back to my old methods of plank bending, using water and heat, rather than the method used and shown by Chuck. In any event, it's now on to the same work on the starboard side.
 
Bob 

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi all,
 
A while ago I'd intended to build a Real de France in a bottle, but I've changed my mind on that as it's going to be a present for my girlfriend and she wasn't keen on the ship. I've since deleted the topic I'd started.
 
So I've gone with her preference, which is a model of Chuck Passaro's 18th Century Longboat in a much smaller scale (1:100). It might be just a tad easier than the R de F . Here's a pic of the finished article (Chuck's, not mine) :
 

 
I have a very nice (empty ) bottle of Dimple Scotch Whiskey which will be suitable, as I'm intending to build with a lofted mast and oars. The triangular shape of the bottle will accommodate both these features nicely. The bottle is 200mm long (including the neck) by 90mm wide/high
 
Here's a pic of a scale pic of the boat in the bottle, just to make sure it fits . These two pics are about the same size as the real thing will be :
 

 
  Danny

A couple of quick shots of the two platforms.  I wasn't comfortable gluing the edges of the boards.  I didn't want to have glue smudges before I stain/poly.  I used left over .020" planking material along the bottoms and glued the boards to them.  This also reinforces the platforms to keep them flat when I stain/poly.  A considerable amount of sanding was necessary to get the bow platform to snug down low enough in the hull.
 

 

 
Erik

The Book is out!
 

 
Sea Watch Books and I are very proud to announce the publication of Modeling the extreme Clipper Young America 1853, Volume I.  I think you will find that the book is unique in its description of a fully-framed extreme American clipper - as well as a smaller plank-on-bulkhead version.  As with the Naiad books, the focus of this work is on modeling processes - covered in detail with many photos and drawings.  Eight full sized drawings are included for the two versions as well as a CD containing patterns, detail sheets and other data.  A second volume covering fitting out, masting and rigging is planned.
 
My contribution to the book has included almost three years of research, drafting,modelbuilding, taking a few thousand photos and, of course, writing.  I will let Bob Friedman comment on the effort required by Sea Watch and its various subcontrators.
 
However, apart from this initial announcement, the purpose of this topic is to collect comments, questions, and opinions on the book.  Bob Friedman and I will pay attention to these as the book rolls out and address questions or issues that may arise.  I will use this topic to post any addenda to the work that may become necessary or even just useful.
 
There are plenty of people to thank for help with an effort like this and I hope I have adequately expressed appreciation in the beginning of the book.  The late Bill Crothers (1912-2015) tops my list and therefore deserves additional mention here.  His exhaustive work on the structures of the American clipper ship were a primary resource for me and neither the model nor the book would exist but for his many years of effort and his excellent books.  It was my honor and pleasure to meet with Bill with the framed version of the model in its earlier stages and to discuss various topics by phone on a number of occasions.  I regret that he is not here to see the either the current model or the book.
 
So, comments and questions are most welcome.
 
Ed
 
The book can be found at:
 
http://www.seawatchbooks.com/NewsForthcomingBooks.htm

Thanks so much Erik. It seems most of your questions have now been answered by the new offerings from Crown. It appears that it will be easier to get what you need to do Cheerful..
 
Bob

Funny......it weighs about 300 pounds...But I am in the shop every day...Feel free to stop by anytime.  Many folks visit the shop all the time and stop me from talking to my dog like a crazy man all day.

Thanks guys.. And thank you Kurt! I received rigging rope, 5mm hooks and the block kit from Syren today. Kurt, you were not kidding about how outstanding the rope is. It is superb! and it is easier for me to work with. The blocks and hooks look great too! And the customer service at Syren is the best! I even started some rigging tonite. Anyway thanks for all your help!

Deck planking has started.  
 
Just a quick note about the two styles of deck planking.  There were the times when deck planking was straight and nibbed into the waterway.  Most are familiar with this style.  I in fact drafted the plans for Cheerful this way.  However,  I believe that the earlier style was still in practice at this time and probably both were used.  More like a transition period.  In my opinion up to possibly 1820 or even later. This second style would be where tapered and hooked scarf joints were used.  No nibbing into the waterway.
 
I have decided to use the second style as the first is so common.  You see it all the time.    I find this more pleasing to look at as the planks are curved.   Straight planks are to harsh in contrast with the curves all over the rest of the model.  Folks can choose which method they prefer.  I did use the scarfed method on the Confederacy but I simplified it with straight planks.  In reality the planks would have tapered and curved a bit at the bow and stern.  Like this below.   
 

 
Also note the curvature of the planking on this contemporary model.
 

 
After gluing the six deck structures in position,  I drew reference lines for where the deck beams would be located.  This will become important later.  Then I planked down the center with one strake (3/16" wide).  I followed that with 2 on either side of that one.  These were straight-non-tapered planks.  Then I started lining off the deck much like I did for the hull planking.  Although in hindsight,  I should have probably tapered these 5 center planks as well.  See the contemporary model image above.  But they are already done, so I am moving on....
 
First I measured with a tick strip in 3/16" increments at the deck's widest point.  The beam reference line on the forward side of the main hatch.   This showed that I still have ten deck planks to put on each side.
 
I used blue tape in thin strips to separate the deck into two belts both port and starboard.  The inner belt on each side has 6 planks....the outer has four.
 
I manipulated the tape until it curved nicely from bow to stern.  Remember these are not straight deck planks.  The curve is not very drastic.   But it has to be taped out so you can visually check the symmetry port and starboard.  Once I was happy with it,  I traced the inside edge of the tape to define each belt.  I removed one strip of tape in the photos below.  Note the curve of the blue tape still on deck.
 

 
Then, just like I did for the hull.  I used my planking fan and tick strips to divide the deck up at each reference line for a deck beam.   This will show me how much taper I will need in each deck plank.  Its just a matter of measuring the total distance at each deck beam and transferring it to a tick strip.   Then you take that tick strip to your planking fan and divide that space into six equal parts.   Then you come back and transfer those ticks to your deck beam reference line.
 
All of the planks in this inner belt will be cut flat on the ends with no scarf joints yet.  I find that on most contemporary models there are only a few scarf joints.... as opposed to modern models where the builder uses way to many.  I have always seen just two or three and on the rarest of occasions four hooked scarf joints against the waterway.  Most people start way too early and end up with too many of them and it looks very busy.  This is also true of just plain nibbing into the waterway.  In addition,  by curving and tapering the planks it actually reduces the need for that many of them.
 

 

 
Thats it for now as I continue to use tick strips to define the width of the planks at each deck beam location.  Then I will start cutting more wood.  

Thanks John
 
The beauty of lining off the deck is that it allows you to create a great plan of attack.  If you connect all of your tick marks you will have a really good idea of how it will look.  If it needs adjustment then just sand it off and start over.  You can do all of this before you lay one deck plank.  Imagine if you just wing it and have half the deck planked...you are sunk.  Lining off the hull first helps you avoid this.
 
I will do this at the stern next and then start cutting wood. 
 
Now if you were just going with straight planks nibbed into the waterway,  would you need to line off the deck like this?  Maybe not.   But I think it is worth the extra work.  And keep in mind you want have to cut into your waterway and risk a cutting error with a bad joint while nibbing.  That takes a huge amount of time and careful chisel work.  So its pretty much a wash as far as the amount of time and effort goes.  
 
 
 
The contemorary model of a cutter shown below also has tapered and scarfed deck planks vs. nibbing.   You can see the tapering very clearly here.
 

 
Chuck
 
 

Deck planking has started.  
 
Just a quick note about the two styles of deck planking.  There were the times when deck planking was straight and nibbed into the waterway.  Most are familiar with this style.  I in fact drafted the plans for Cheerful this way.  However,  I believe that the earlier style was still in practice at this time and probably both were used.  More like a transition period.  In my opinion up to possibly 1820 or even later. This second style would be where tapered and hooked scarf joints were used.  No nibbing into the waterway.
 
I have decided to use the second style as the first is so common.  You see it all the time.    I find this more pleasing to look at as the planks are curved.   Straight planks are to harsh in contrast with the curves all over the rest of the model.  Folks can choose which method they prefer.  I did use the scarfed method on the Confederacy but I simplified it with straight planks.  In reality the planks would have tapered and curved a bit at the bow and stern.  Like this below.   
 

 
Also note the curvature of the planking on this contemporary model.
 

 
After gluing the six deck structures in position,  I drew reference lines for where the deck beams would be located.  This will become important later.  Then I planked down the center with one strake (3/16" wide).  I followed that with 2 on either side of that one.  These were straight-non-tapered planks.  Then I started lining off the deck much like I did for the hull planking.  Although in hindsight,  I should have probably tapered these 5 center planks as well.  See the contemporary model image above.  But they are already done, so I am moving on....
 
First I measured with a tick strip in 3/16" increments at the deck's widest point.  The beam reference line on the forward side of the main hatch.   This showed that I still have ten deck planks to put on each side.
 
I used blue tape in thin strips to separate the deck into two belts both port and starboard.  The inner belt on each side has 6 planks....the outer has four.
 
I manipulated the tape until it curved nicely from bow to stern.  Remember these are not straight deck planks.  The curve is not very drastic.   But it has to be taped out so you can visually check the symmetry port and starboard.  Once I was happy with it,  I traced the inside edge of the tape to define each belt.  I removed one strip of tape in the photos below.  Note the curve of the blue tape still on deck.
 

 
Then, just like I did for the hull.  I used my planking fan and tick strips to divide the deck up at each reference line for a deck beam.   This will show me how much taper I will need in each deck plank.  Its just a matter of measuring the total distance at each deck beam and transferring it to a tick strip.   Then you take that tick strip to your planking fan and divide that space into six equal parts.   Then you come back and transfer those ticks to your deck beam reference line.
 
All of the planks in this inner belt will be cut flat on the ends with no scarf joints yet.  I find that on most contemporary models there are only a few scarf joints.... as opposed to modern models where the builder uses way to many.  I have always seen just two or three and on the rarest of occasions four hooked scarf joints against the waterway.  Most people start way too early and end up with too many of them and it looks very busy.  This is also true of just plain nibbing into the waterway.  In addition,  by curving and tapering the planks it actually reduces the need for that many of them.
 

 

 
Thats it for now as I continue to use tick strips to define the width of the planks at each deck beam location.  Then I will start cutting more wood.  

I agree ken....
 
The six deck elements that I needed to complete before I started planking the deck are now finished.    
 
The companionway was pretty straight forward.   I used 1/32" thick strips glued together edgewise to make the sides and top of the companionway.  I darkened the seams before gluing them up with a pencil.  I knew they would show through the transparent red paint and add a nice visual detail.
 
The hinges are laserboard with small lengths of tubes used to simulate them.  They are not working hinges though.  Each side of the companionway was built in one solid piece and assembled like a box.  The hinges were glued on afterwards.  I have omitted the coaming as was seen on the photo from that contemporary model.
 
The last deck element to complete was the coaming where the stove stack will go.  That was pretty straight forward as well.   I just followed the plans.  The height and width for all of the coamings on these six elements varied so Careful attention was needed.  I had to build this last one twice after making the coaming too high.  I need to look at my plans more often!!!
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

I forgot to show the image of the Rogers model which was "zero" help.  The companionway is basically shown as a giant solid red cube with smooth sides.  
 
You can see the lower and flattter skylight though.  This is at odds with the original draft.  But I wonder why so little detail on that cube....
 
Chuck
 

Some notes about the companionway that I will be building next.  It is a typical companionway.  They are all similar.  Some have a more sloped top.  But I drafted the profile shown on the original draft which was pretty square.  I am sure you could alter it to suit and it would be reasonable and OK. 
 
But one thing I noticed that was different from contemporary models and not consistent.  Some Companionways did in fact have a coaming while other did not.  Some had wide coamings that stuck out as i built for the skylight.   But I decided to model a coaming that way for the skylight on the assumption that some were portable and could be lifted out and replaced with a simple grating for air circulation.   But the Companionway is different.  My plan shows it with a  thick coaming but I may model it without as in the example provided (Second drawing and photo).  This way anyone building her can have more visual info and can decide which they want to choose.  I guess you can say the image below still shows a coaming but it is just not wider than the companionway which I have seen in other examples.  There are such a wide array of different configurations it can get confusing.
 
I welcome any discussions about it.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

Thanks,
 
Today I started making the coamings for the hatch gratings.  There are three,  but only two need coamings.   The main hatch is shown here.  The second smaller grating will be just aft of the windlass.
 
The gratings were made using the Syren grating kits with camber already built in them.
 

 
Then the coamings were built up around the finished gratings.  Too often I see folks build the coaming following the plans and then when it comes time to add the grating it wont fit.  Sometimes you end up with holes along the coaming or have to shave down the grating too much to fit it into the coaming.  By building the coaming around a finished grating I wont have this issue.  Now my grating may end up being a hair larger or smaller than the plans but that is less important than having it look correct.  We are talking about maybe .025" larger or smaller...thats acceptable.
 

 
The coamings were made with the usual lap joints.  Note the fore and aft sides have a roundup.  These coamings are 1/4" high.  Others will be less and not as thick...they are all different but for the two gratings the coamings are 1/4" high x 3/32" thick.  But dont forget that the planking will go around them so only 3/16' will be above the planked deck.
 
Then a right angle jig was used to round off the corners except for what will be the bottom 1/16".   The jig is 1/16" thick which will be the same thickness as the planking.  I added a strip inside the coaming on the port and starboard sides to create a lip to support the grating as well.  
 
 
 
To finish it off I softened the hard corners all around the top edge of the coaming.   I may or may not paint the coaming red and leave the grating bright.  But I dont know yet.  I have seen Cutter models done both ways.   There will be a lot of other deck fittings painted red so I dont want to go overboard... .  Tomorrow I will make the coaming for the smaller grating behind the windlass.
 

 

 
Chuck

Thank You...
 
In preparation for planking the deck,  I added the waterway/margin planks.   For my purposes here I talk about them as two separate pieces.  First the wider margin plank was created with scarf joints next to the bulwarks.  I used card stock to make templates first.  There are three lengths as shown below.  This required a lot of tweaking until I got it right. Then the templates were traced onto a 1/16" thick sheet of boxwood and cut out.  The deck planking will be 1/16" thick.   
 

 
I spent a lot of time carefully shaping the scarf joints with a #11 blade and some needle files until they were a nice clean and tight fit.  Then they were glued onto the deck area.  The back edge needed to be beveled so I could get a tight fit against the bulwarks in many areas.  Particularly at the bow.  A pencil darkened the seam of scarf joint just like the hull planking.  Eventually the deck planking will be nibbed into these margin planks.   
 

 

 

 
When finished, I added the waterway on top of the margin plank.  It was a 1/32" strip that was slowly sanded to become a 1/4 round.  I basically sanded off one corner edge and rounded it off.  It was glued on top and the seams between the pieces were carefully lined up with the scarf joints.  So again three lengths were used.  This way they look like they were done as one piece.   These thin strips also needed to be beveled to fit tight against the bulwarks.  The bulwarks are unfortunately not at a nice 90 degree angle to the deck so the bevel was an absolute necessity. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start building the hatches, coamings and gratings and skylight.   Then I can plank the deck around them.  I cant wait until thats done,.  After this step its just about the small details...and that is a lot of fun.
 
Chuck

Thank you guys.
 
Just a real quick update.   Not to much except I did drill the hawse holes and the hole for the bowsprit.  As simple as this procedure may sound it is actually rather tricky.  I had to be really careful to drill these parallel to the keel and straight back.  There is always a tendency to just drill through straight in.  But instead,  the bit must be held so it enters the bulwarks parallel to the keel.  I started with a small hole so if the angle was wrong it could be corrected.  Then I switched to needle files and then an even bigger round file to finish it off.  
 
The angle is super important because the hole for the bowsprit must be drilled the same way.  Straigh back and parallel to the centerline.   If the hawse holes were drilled at an "off" angle then there wouldnt be room to properly create the hole for the bowsprit.  I used a graphite pencil to darken the hawse holes but I may go back and use a dull flat dark gray instead,   No rush to decide.
 
Now I can move on and start creating the waterway in preparation for the deck planking.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

After planking the bulwarks I painted it red.  The finished bulwarks were 5/32" thick.  Maybe slightly thinner.  Then it was time to add the caprail.  It will be added in two pieces.  First the main rail which is 1/16" thick.  This was sanded flush both inboard and outboard.   Another strip will eventually be placed outboard as a fancy molding.  It is scraped like the others and is 1/6" x 1/32".  But it wasnt added yet.
 
First I had to create the hawse hole plates....which are essentially 1/32" thick pieces with the holes ut for the hawse holes and the bowsprit.  This sits flush with the top of the caprail so I had to add it first before I could add the fancy molding strip along the caprail outboard.  I didnt drill the hawse holes yet.  This will be done next.  But the hawse plates in position makes it easy to find their locations.  So that will be done in a day or two.
 
Lastly I added that fancy molding strip outboard for the cap rail which stands proud of the hull planking and finishes it off.   This is where I am to date and after drilling the hawse holes and hole for the bowsprit I will make preparations to start planking the deck.   Its getting there...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am contemplating painting the hawse plates and the stem above the ear molding black.....along with the fashion pieces at the stern.  But I have time to decide that.  So I will live with it as it is shown for a while before I commit to it.  Maybe after I drill and file the holes for the bowsprit and such...we shall see.
 
 
 
 

Work on the planking continues. I've now added the second layer of the wales and painted them black, and done the first two strakes of the lower planking, including the drop plank. Those lower strakes were given a rough sanding.  If I had it to do again, I would probably not add the second wale layer until after doing the lower planking, since the the paint got pretty nicked up and will require extensive touch up later.
 
In any event, I will now move on to the remainder of the first belt of lower planking.
 
Bob

Thank You...
 
In preparation for planking the deck,  I added the waterway/margin planks.   For my purposes here I talk about them as two separate pieces.  First the wider margin plank was created with scarf joints next to the bulwarks.  I used card stock to make templates first.  There are three lengths as shown below.  This required a lot of tweaking until I got it right. Then the templates were traced onto a 1/16" thick sheet of boxwood and cut out.  The deck planking will be 1/16" thick.   
 

 
I spent a lot of time carefully shaping the scarf joints with a #11 blade and some needle files until they were a nice clean and tight fit.  Then they were glued onto the deck area.  The back edge needed to be beveled so I could get a tight fit against the bulwarks in many areas.  Particularly at the bow.  A pencil darkened the seam of scarf joint just like the hull planking.  Eventually the deck planking will be nibbed into these margin planks.   
 

 

 

 
When finished, I added the waterway on top of the margin plank.  It was a 1/32" strip that was slowly sanded to become a 1/4 round.  I basically sanded off one corner edge and rounded it off.  It was glued on top and the seams between the pieces were carefully lined up with the scarf joints.  So again three lengths were used.  This way they look like they were done as one piece.   These thin strips also needed to be beveled to fit tight against the bulwarks.  The bulwarks are unfortunately not at a nice 90 degree angle to the deck so the bevel was an absolute necessity. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start building the hatches, coamings and gratings and skylight.   Then I can plank the deck around them.  I cant wait until thats done,.  After this step its just about the small details...and that is a lot of fun.
 
Chuck

I glued in the floorboards.  I used pieces of .030" stryene as temporary spacers between the boards as I was gluing them in so they would be a uniform distance from one another.  Also, now that I'm working on the interior, I'm using the build board I had made.
 

 

 
Erik

Here is a photo of the "iron work" for the boom, bowsprit, and mast.  Rather than using brass flat stock to form the various pieces, I thought I'd try something a little different.  Every fitting was made with slices of brass tubing.  In each case the components were silver soldered together.  I've never done any silver soldering, so this was a new experience for me, and I have to admit that I enjoyed it.  It's quite possible that Stay-Brite would have worked just as well, but I wanted to try something new.

I really lucked out on this procedure.  In every case except one, the inside diameters of the tubing were spot on for the boom, bowsprit and mast locations.  The one exception was the top bracket on the mast, which had a little play at the location where it should be mounted.  I solved that problem by applying some Stay-Brite solder to the inner surface of the ring, and reaming it out.  It really didn't take much to snug up the bracket.
 
BobF

I've painted the cock pit and I got the knees in in place.

Thanks John
 
The beauty of lining off the deck is that it allows you to create a great plan of attack.  If you connect all of your tick marks you will have a really good idea of how it will look.  If it needs adjustment then just sand it off and start over.  You can do all of this before you lay one deck plank.  Imagine if you just wing it and have half the deck planked...you are sunk.  Lining off the hull first helps you avoid this.
 
I will do this at the stern next and then start cutting wood. 
 
Now if you were just going with straight planks nibbed into the waterway,  would you need to line off the deck like this?  Maybe not.   But I think it is worth the extra work.  And keep in mind you want have to cut into your waterway and risk a cutting error with a bad joint while nibbing.  That takes a huge amount of time and careful chisel work.  So its pretty much a wash as far as the amount of time and effort goes.  
 
 
 
The contemorary model of a cutter shown below also has tapered and scarfed deck planks vs. nibbing.   You can see the tapering very clearly here.
 

 
Chuck