Erik W

After a couple of false starts, I got the first part of the rigging compete.  It's a bit stressful to work on . . . I feel like I'm going to break something!  While trying to keep my knots small and unobtrusive, I had a couple of the them come out, and had to redo them and alter how I was gluing/handling them.  I didn't like the parrel beads that came with the kit so I wound up, buying size 11 seed beads at a craft store and using those instead.  They're 1.7mm long vs. the 2.3mm beads that came with the kit.
 
One of the things that has attracted me to wooden ship modeling is how boats and ships look when fully rigged.  I have high expectations of how this will turn out, tempered by being a complete novice though.    I'm happy, more or less, with the results so far.  There's room for improvement as I continue, but the results are in line with the quality of the rest of the build.  Can't ask for too much more as a beginner!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 
 
 

After a couple of false starts, I got the first part of the rigging compete.  It's a bit stressful to work on . . . I feel like I'm going to break something!  While trying to keep my knots small and unobtrusive, I had a couple of the them come out, and had to redo them and alter how I was gluing/handling them.  I didn't like the parrel beads that came with the kit so I wound up, buying size 11 seed beads at a craft store and using those instead.  They're 1.7mm long vs. the 2.3mm beads that came with the kit.
 
One of the things that has attracted me to wooden ship modeling is how boats and ships look when fully rigged.  I have high expectations of how this will turn out, tempered by being a complete novice though.    I'm happy, more or less, with the results so far.  There's room for improvement as I continue, but the results are in line with the quality of the rest of the build.  Can't ask for too much more as a beginner!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 
 
 

After a couple of false starts, I got the first part of the rigging compete.  It's a bit stressful to work on . . . I feel like I'm going to break something!  While trying to keep my knots small and unobtrusive, I had a couple of the them come out, and had to redo them and alter how I was gluing/handling them.  I didn't like the parrel beads that came with the kit so I wound up, buying size 11 seed beads at a craft store and using those instead.  They're 1.7mm long vs. the 2.3mm beads that came with the kit.
 
One of the things that has attracted me to wooden ship modeling is how boats and ships look when fully rigged.  I have high expectations of how this will turn out, tempered by being a complete novice though.    I'm happy, more or less, with the results so far.  There's room for improvement as I continue, but the results are in line with the quality of the rest of the build.  Can't ask for too much more as a beginner!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 
 
 
 

Paul,
 
It looks awesome!  I particularly like the red painted trim below the painted frieze on the sides.  That's a neat variation from what the rest of us have done.
 
Erik

Paul,
 
It looks awesome!  I particularly like the red painted trim below the painted frieze on the sides.  That's a neat variation from what the rest of us have done.
 
Erik

Thanks Brian. Yes, definitely  still in progress. A lot to go yet. Gaff will go up today. Then on to the chain plates.
 
Paul

Here are a few more.
 
 

Thanks Mike. Here is the progress on my 18th Century Longboat by Chuck. My apologies for not keeping up on this like I could/should have. I really had to just dive in and see if I could do this. Plus, while I work I really don't think to take pics while in progress. I am loving building this little boat. As I go, I really realize how detailed and awesome this boat is. Mant thanks to Chuck for designing this kit.
 
I  have just finished rigging the main mast, boom and boom sheet. Any critiques are kindly welcome. Have I forgotten anything?

Hello friends,
 
many thanks to all for your kind comments and Likes.
 
 
Built gun ports and jamb walls.
 
 
Karl
 
 
T e i l  6

I agree with Chuck and Erik, the natural look is great. The red sets it off nicely.

The boat looks nice and sharp. Good color combo.

I agree with Chuck.  Your cockpit woodwork looks great.  I think it would look nice unpainted.  That said, your application of the red paint on your build so far has been flawless, so either way, you can't lose.
 
Erik

Thanks Jack and Mike for your comments and all of the "Likes".  I appreciate everyone taking the time to look at my build log.
 
I have been working on the thwarts and have completed the seats around the cockpit area.  At this time, I am debating whether to paint the thwarts and seats red, leave them all natural or do a combination of both.  Right now, I am leaning towards painting the thwarts and cockpit area.
 
Here is a photo of my progress with the thwarts and cockpit area dryfitted:
 

I must say that it looks lovely as is Ryland.  Very nice work.
 
Chuck

I finished the oars, the last of the wood work on the boat.  Like others, I'll only display 4 of them in the boat.  No one really mentions shaping the oars, but after struggling to get one shaped correctly, I figured out the trick.  The laser cut oar handles are .064" (1.63mm) thick, by .090" (2.29mm)  wide.  If you file off the four edges so you have an octagon, it's not symmetrical.  Your oar handle then will be oblong rather than round.  I wound up sanding the .090" (2.29mm) side down to .064" (1.63mm) first.  I then was able to sand the handle perfectly round.  Using my digital calipers I was able to check all 4 handles several places along their length to make sure they were uniform .062" (1.57mm) diameter when finished.  Also, when carefully comparing the photos in Chuck's original build log, these laser cut oars are 1/2" too long.  So, I removed 1/2" off of the length so they won't overpower the boat interior when displayed.
 
In preparation for rigging, and tying small knots, I bought a magnifying lamp.  It is 2x with a spot that is 5x, and contains a bright LED light.

 

 

 
Erik

The channels are in and I added the eyebolts to the exterior of the hull.  I also drilled the scuppers which was pretty straight forward.  Then I started to fabricate the plates for the backstays.   These were made using 1/64" x 3/32" brass strips.   The K&S strips are soft and can be filed easily to shape.  You can see the progression of steps used to make them.  There will be three chainplates on each side of the hull.
 
I started by drilling the hole at the bottom and rounding it off.
 
Then I used a round file to notch the strips on both sides as shown in step two.  This will be the top of the chain plate where it gets thinner.
 
In step three I used a flat file to extend that thinner portion on top so I could bend it into a loop like making an eyebolt.
 
Step four is where I cut off the top excess strip and tapered the bottom portion so it got slightly narrower as it worked its way to the top.
 
The last two examples show the chainplate completed with the thin portion of the brass on top bent into a loop.  This will get a hooked tackle when it comes time to rig the back stays.   I used small little brass pins....you know the ones...they come in every kit and I have a whole bunch of them.
 
Next its on to the deadeyes and chainplates for the channels.  Its really the same procedure to make those except we will add a stroped deadeye to the top of each.
 
The outboard details are almost all complete.  Once the deadeyes are completed there is only the rudder and fixed block on the stem.  Then we finish up inboard!!!!
 

 

 

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Brian, 
 
I'm late in seeing your build log, but good job.  This is the type of modeling I aspire to!  And congrats on the award.  That's pretty awesome.
 
Erik

That's how I do them as well, but I use PVA instead.
 
  Danny

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Brian, 
 
I'm late in seeing your build log, but good job.  This is the type of modeling I aspire to!  And congrats on the award.  That's pretty awesome.
 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Brian, 
 
I'm late in seeing your build log, but good job.  This is the type of modeling I aspire to!  And congrats on the award.  That's pretty awesome.
 
Erik

Brian, 
 
I'm late in seeing your build log, but good job.  This is the type of modeling I aspire to!  And congrats on the award.  That's pretty awesome.
 
Erik