Erik W

Less than a week after finishing the AVS, yesterday I got up far too early, and spent the day at the annual model show put on in Phoenix by the local IPMS chapter. The Modelzona show is one of the largest annual shows, this year it had 550 entries, with my ship as the only non-plastic entry.  
 
I entered the AVS into the Surface Ships class that included some pretty amazing entries, including a 1/700 scale Japanese WW2 carrier in the middle of launching a strike, that had 313 little tiny crew figures servicing the planes and manning the guns etc., as well as 4 different entries by a guy who is a professional model-maker as his day job.
 
At the end of the day, the AVS did quite well. I took first place in Surface Ships, and also Best Ship (all ship/submarine classes).
 

The day has come.  I spent a lot of time messing with the anchors, but I simply couldn't find a position where they looked decent to me when lashed to the timberheads, so I chose to display them hanging from the catheads.  I then spent far more time than I probably should have messing with the anchor buoys, and in the end was just unhappy with how they looked when properly attached to the anchors, so I decided to display the ship without them.  I may make a couple of rope coils and place them on the empty timberheads where the buoys would be hung and belayed, but other than that, and some inspection and touch-up painting/matting, the Serenity is done.
 
I need to re-do my lighting arrangement (which means rearranging the room I take these in) as I'm not real happy with the way these photo's turned out (from a lighting perspective), so I will probably do a full 'finished' photo-shoot sometime later this week.
 
Image dump (bigger than usual - 1600x on the long side)...
 

Hello,
 
the furniture for the great cabin is now ready. First a desk and a sofa.
 

 

 
And here is all finished and painted.
 

 

 

 
The next days I will make some smaller things, like books, glasses and bottles. I would't make lanterns for these cabins, because I think that the servants of the captain will bring them in when it is necessary. 
 
Regards,
Siggi

They look good Erik, and that's all that really matters, not how it gets done!  At least in my opinion.

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I had a pretty frustrating evening the other night.  I dove right into the rigging thing . . . and wound up with pretty crappy results.  The nylon rope that came with the kit was hard to work with, being inflexible, stiff, slippery, etc.  That, and I hadn't researched enough what I was doing . . . so felt pretty defeated.  But, thanks to Chuck answering a late night message, I placed an order with him for quality replacement rope, and Mike (Stuntflyer) was kind enough to point me towards some good links on basic rigging techniques.  My hat is off to both Chuck and Mike for bringing me back to an even keel.  And yet again . . . I've learned that patience is the name of the game. 
 
The other thing I needed was a workable 3rd hand system.  I came up with this, since I don't own anything that would work otherwise.  I flipped the wood around in two clothes pins and tapered the new front, and then glued them to my build board.  One oriented on it's side, the other upright.  Should work fine to hold blocks for seizing and stropping.
 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Mike,
 
Here are the links Mike (Stuntflyer) sent me.  He had said the top one was the most useful to him.  That short video (in the top link) on seizing was very helpful in understanding that.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5295-rigging-blocks-how-to/
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3145-hooks-and-blocks/?hl=seize

Also, I found some good advice on how to handle things here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9180-how-to-work-with-teeny-blocks/

The part of the rigging that was confounding me was fastening the two blocks to the top of the mast. I had sent Chuck a message and his response was:

"Remember that the block must be oriented in the right direction. Meaning on those blocks the hole is on top if you are using the blocks that come with the kit. I basically took a length of rope and put it through the eye on the metal band first and tied a knot. The two tails were left extra long. Then I used the two tails to strop the block in position afterwards. You can use a drop of glue to fix the block against the original knot so it stays there. Then tie a simple knot with the tails around the block. Not a double knot.....just one time so you can trim the tails after applying some glue. This way you cant see its a big knot at the bottom of the block afterwards."
 
Hope this helps you a bit.

Erik

I had a pretty frustrating evening the other night.  I dove right into the rigging thing . . . and wound up with pretty crappy results.  The nylon rope that came with the kit was hard to work with, being inflexible, stiff, slippery, etc.  That, and I hadn't researched enough what I was doing . . . so felt pretty defeated.  But, thanks to Chuck answering a late night message, I placed an order with him for quality replacement rope, and Mike (Stuntflyer) was kind enough to point me towards some good links on basic rigging techniques.  My hat is off to both Chuck and Mike for bringing me back to an even keel.  And yet again . . . I've learned that patience is the name of the game. 
 
The other thing I needed was a workable 3rd hand system.  I came up with this, since I don't own anything that would work otherwise.  I flipped the wood around in two clothes pins and tapered the new front, and then glued them to my build board.  One oriented on it's side, the other upright.  Should work fine to hold blocks for seizing and stropping.
 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

I added a few blocks to the boat.  I followed Chuck's advice for the two blocks on the mast (see my last post).  I did something similar for the block on the horse.  I tied one overhand knot after looping the rope around the horse wire, fixed the block to the knot with a tiny dab of full strength PVA, then wrapped the rope around the block and secured it on the top with one overhand knot pulled flat along the line of the rope.  I then added 50/50 diluted matt medium to the top and sides of the block.  Once dry, I cut off the ends of the rope.  I know others like a more elaborate arrangement, but because I'm a novice, I'm just trying to keep it simple and as clean looking as possible.
 

 

 

 
Erik

Thank you, Erik!

Mike,
 
Here are the links Mike (Stuntflyer) sent me.  He had said the top one was the most useful to him.  That short video (in the top link) on seizing was very helpful in understanding that.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5295-rigging-blocks-how-to/
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3145-hooks-and-blocks/?hl=seize

Also, I found some good advice on how to handle things here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9180-how-to-work-with-teeny-blocks/

The part of the rigging that was confounding me was fastening the two blocks to the top of the mast. I had sent Chuck a message and his response was:

"Remember that the block must be oriented in the right direction. Meaning on those blocks the hole is on top if you are using the blocks that come with the kit. I basically took a length of rope and put it through the eye on the metal band first and tied a knot. The two tails were left extra long. Then I used the two tails to strop the block in position afterwards. You can use a drop of glue to fix the block against the original knot so it stays there. Then tie a simple knot with the tails around the block. Not a double knot.....just one time so you can trim the tails after applying some glue. This way you cant see its a big knot at the bottom of the block afterwards."
 
Hope this helps you a bit.

Erik

Mike,
 
Here are the links Mike (Stuntflyer) sent me.  He had said the top one was the most useful to him.  That short video (in the top link) on seizing was very helpful in understanding that.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5295-rigging-blocks-how-to/
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3145-hooks-and-blocks/?hl=seize

Also, I found some good advice on how to handle things here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9180-how-to-work-with-teeny-blocks/

The part of the rigging that was confounding me was fastening the two blocks to the top of the mast. I had sent Chuck a message and his response was:

"Remember that the block must be oriented in the right direction. Meaning on those blocks the hole is on top if you are using the blocks that come with the kit. I basically took a length of rope and put it through the eye on the metal band first and tied a knot. The two tails were left extra long. Then I used the two tails to strop the block in position afterwards. You can use a drop of glue to fix the block against the original knot so it stays there. Then tie a simple knot with the tails around the block. Not a double knot.....just one time so you can trim the tails after applying some glue. This way you cant see its a big knot at the bottom of the block afterwards."
 
Hope this helps you a bit.

Erik

Hold on a second there buddy.  You don't get off the hook with only 1 finished-boat-photo.  We want to see more! 
 
Erik

Mike,
 
Here are the links Mike (Stuntflyer) sent me.  He had said the top one was the most useful to him.  That short video (in the top link) on seizing was very helpful in understanding that.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5295-rigging-blocks-how-to/
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3145-hooks-and-blocks/?hl=seize

Also, I found some good advice on how to handle things here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9180-how-to-work-with-teeny-blocks/

The part of the rigging that was confounding me was fastening the two blocks to the top of the mast. I had sent Chuck a message and his response was:

"Remember that the block must be oriented in the right direction. Meaning on those blocks the hole is on top if you are using the blocks that come with the kit. I basically took a length of rope and put it through the eye on the metal band first and tied a knot. The two tails were left extra long. Then I used the two tails to strop the block in position afterwards. You can use a drop of glue to fix the block against the original knot so it stays there. Then tie a simple knot with the tails around the block. Not a double knot.....just one time so you can trim the tails after applying some glue. This way you cant see its a big knot at the bottom of the block afterwards."
 
Hope this helps you a bit.

Erik

Hold on a second there buddy.  You don't get off the hook with only 1 finished-boat-photo.  We want to see more! 
 
Erik

Hold on a second there buddy.  You don't get off the hook with only 1 finished-boat-photo.  We want to see more! 
 
Erik

What Erik said, Joss.   It looks great.

Hold on a second there buddy.  You don't get off the hook with only 1 finished-boat-photo.  We want to see more! 
 
Erik

K done and dusted. A nice fun little kit when all is said and done. I am also pleased I have got back into 'making' stuff and feel as if I steadily improved as I went along.
 
I sometimes wonder if a more steady researchy approach would suit better and I may adjust to that for the scratch. As it stands I like to see if I can work it out myself first which often hurts 'quality' in the end. Equally that's not the way I am currently wired and it is satisfying working out how to improve a technique myself.
 
Thanks to Chuck for the design and thanks to everyone else for any encouragement along the way.
 
Look another 'soft focus in the dark' shot  l tell myself this is how non-ship modellers see these models anyway..