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liteflight

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  1. liteflight
    ALL the right-handed scissors are Evil. I would consign them to the drawer dedicated to Anoia, patron Goddess of unidentified utensils which jam drawers, but I can’t get it open. ;-{
  2. liteflight
    Thank you, YV. I am familiar with Ben’s Flower class ( via your build log) but the Castle class is new to me Looks promising , and make a fantastic model. slight snagette - I am a 3-D print virgin, but willing to learn andrew ps. An even bigger hurdle is that I am a lifelong adherent to the build methods of Glyn Guest and my preferred material is a tropical Hardwood, Ochroma Pyramidalis.
  3. liteflight
    Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg A lesson in realistic painting and weathering One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine. Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea andrew
  4. liteflight
    https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/34-thread-silk-rope-etc/?do=findComment&comment=876 This thread mentions actual sizes, and also the makeup of fly threads from multiple strands andrew
  5. liteflight
    Reread the shroud saga! Reminded myself how small these bastards devices are! Snippet of info that may help you or other threaders of gnats eyes: fly tying thread is not round but flattish with many near-parallel strands with a slow helix (for good and sufficient fly-tying reasons). It therefore can be split into thinner strands. This info from https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/393-fly-tying-thread-for-rigging/ BTW - there is a staggering amount of info about the small side of model shipbuilding which we all might find interesting in the forums I have some fly thread - again the thinnest that was available at a local shop called "the compleat angler" about 5 minutes from me. They are probably still laughing on finding out the intended uses of the materials I buy I'll have a wee keek at the fly thread and see if I can split it - I'm intrigued now andrew
  6. liteflight
    Steven Paxolin, also known as Tufnol ( both trade names). It’s Sunday name is SRBP ( synthetic resin bonded paper). Resin is phenolic, and it’s equally strong in all directions at right angles to the sheet ( what we need for dead eyes its stronger brother SPBF (Tufnol Carp) is the same resin bonded into cotton fabric - even stronger and tougher they all seem to be available in Aus from electrical and gasket suppliers, 0.5 mm to 75 mm thick https://agaus.com.au/?s=Srbf https://au.rs-online.com/web/b/tufnol-/ I should go back and see what thickness you are using. Tufnol sheet goes down to 0.4 mm and I would guess you are using something like 1mm, or 40thou to its friends. Birch! I was speaking of my favourite birch ply! 0.4 mm thick 3-ply. A couple of laminations of that and little matters like “grain” and “ tearing” are history Best way to make the lanyard holes would be laser - I have found many places in Melbourne who will laser cut from a program ( or drawing) and will supply material or use yours. They might bilk ( or balk) at phenolic because of the fume properties. Birch ply cuts beautifully, so they could nest many deadeyes and spares and cut them in one pass Sadly my flying buddy with a CO2 laser died last year or I would offer to get them made as a trial andrew
  7. liteflight
    Hi, Akrypto Does that make your father a marine, or is that not what happens in the RAN? I’m enjoying your build and your style in relating it. I shall be sitting in and consuming the Lamingtons andrew
  8. liteflight
    I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to. Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour! Disadvantage: smell of phenolic resin when drilling alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo andrew Stop press: Activity detected at Viking Shipyard! blog creaks into action
  9. liteflight
    Alan Many thanks for your blog; I am learning a lot of the things that (I think) I need to know about 3D printing. Your "catch" of the filament roller is an example of getting to the root of a problem, after fire-fighting all the effects seperately Very instructive blog, very impressive model thanks, andrew
  10. liteflight
    Just to be clear, tempering is reducing hardness, generally in favour of toughness. And reducing hardness of the brass drive roller is probably not what is required here. The process described in the link is indeed softening the brass (or copper) to its softest state, even if I would describe that as annealing. Rolling the drive teeth into the drive roller after machining will have work hardened the brass considerably and I would expect that to be the condition that gives the longest life propelling the PLA.
  11. liteflight
    Good old Dan Snow! The splinters were the main incapacitating factor, I believe. They would happen whether the round shot hit on or between a frame, but it’s worth remembering that there wasn’t much “ between frames “ in a European line-of-battle ship I visited HMS Trincomalee ( frigate) at Hartlepool and learned that yer matelot hated to serve in a teak- built ship as the splinters were certain, rather than likely, to cause sepsis. Their Lords of the Admiralty, however liked the fact that teak is infused with insecticide and resists shipworm and rot. conflicting interests! But Trinco is still with us! incidentally, I have manned a full-size ropewalk on the dock next to Trinco - a fascinating process, especially in the full, cable lengths. andrew
  12. liteflight
    Chief Mark I look forward to your build. Can anyone suggest a collective noun for Nefs ? There seems to be an outbreak of nef-building ( statistically, the number of builds has doubled in the last week) And that doesn’t include builds of Hulcs, frumious or otherwise.
  13. liteflight
    I suggested circles only because the base of Steven's map pins is circular - depending on the clamping force required and the stiffness of the rubber , squares could well be a better shape andrew
  14. liteflight
    Lovely and interesting work, Steven tiny suggestionette in relation to your pushpins holding the planks in position. A circle of rubber about the diameter of the head of your pin would exert more grip with less precision of driving required. My first thought was to slice a good draughstmans rubber into sat 3 mm slices, then make circles with a wet sharpened tube ( I use Readily-available-wetting-agent ( saliva) which is also a perfect accelerator for cyano) Love your crew, and the remade and delicate instruments andrew
  15. liteflight
    Yes And with carefully researched clothing coloured to match the available dyes ( of course) Fascinating build, I am following agog. I’m not a popcorn afficionado ( but thanks for making it available). I prefer the emu drumsticks you have elegantly offered. Hull carving using buttocks: this has been my preferred way of carving hulls for racing yachts. To help with precise fairing of the hull I colour the wood glue with acrylic paint so that there is a good visual marker of your progress in fairing the hull or plug. Photos are my Footy “Presto” , colours are to honour her Italian designer Flavio Faloci
  16. liteflight
    Love the anchors, Steven They look like forged iron and the rings look suitably distressed as well. I think that the stocks might look better with bands nailed around them. If you are not sure you could try the look with dark paper applied with glue stick so that water or alcohol would remove it if it offended your (excellent) eye. Good work with the jigs, they do the trick. I remember seeing a deadeye jig made from a steel hinge, with the deadeye located in a hole in the lower leaf, and the lanyard ‘oles in the upper leaf. Since you are drilling into virgin stock it would be even easier. Come to think of it a brass hinge would be even easier to make and more pleasant to work with. Please tell me and the rest of the watching world how you keep your cutting board so pristine! Mine looks less than clean as I use it as a table protector, and all cutting, glueing and some painting activities leave their mark. Even with a weakly clean ( I have trouble summoning the energy) it remains more than a little “used” Or do you have a “photo” mat which lives a pampered life in cellophane and replaces the working mat?
  17. liteflight
    Brilliant carving at that scale! And I was not sure where the little slivers were going to until they got their crosses on and became shields. as an aside, I used to fly indoor models with Willard Wigan. He used to bring examples of his sculptures to show us. https://www.willardwiganmbe.com/ if he had a gigantic match, I never saw it
  18. liteflight
    Great ironwork, Stephen Well persevered! The catfood trays I would expect to be pretty pure Aluminium, so they might anodise well and could be dyed a rusty black. you have completed the task - I’m thinking for myself and the future. Anodising is a skill I would like to acquire
  19. liteflight
    Nah! “If a little is good, more is better and too much is just enough” certainly applies to Clamps, clothes pegs, and pins of all sorts!
  20. liteflight
    I was so deprived But I had John Emery, who explained how boiling an egg at the top of Everest was possible, in that the water would boil (85deg if I remember correctly), EDIT ( I did not remember correctly, googling says 70 deg C) but the egg would not cook however long one boiled it because the albumen does not asggulate at that temperature.
  21. liteflight
    I believe I see it clamped to a couple of robust T-Squares, but I expect that the traverse is carried out delicately, rather than uffishly
  22. liteflight
    Well, the prof could at least measure the city for a suitable-sized sack Sorry :-{ One of the learned Scots from the late 19th century said "if you can't measure it: its an opinion" Kelvin? Maxwell? If I am good I would look it up: I did Bother! and also Blow! American business wisdom has grabbed and adulterated the quote. And Google in its wisdom gives preference to recent, money-making and US-sourced Stuff. They concentrate on a version attributed to Peter Drucker. Kelvin or Maxwell. Physics based, I can now look it up in a book* *Ancient source of discredited information. Can't be browsed by Google. Can be browsed by Andrew
  23. liteflight
    Excellent method for (scientifically) taking the shape of a cross-section and fitting the frame timber. The tool resembles a phrenology device I remember from the last time I had my bumps measured! This tool would also work if applied at an angle to the centreline of a hull, so that oblique frames could be precisely made. There was discussion of this on KrisWood’s Oseberg ship (edit) A closer look at the tool led me to admire the bearing wheels! So the workmanship workpersonship of the tool is also excellent. Great workmanship, Dick, and a valuably practical examination of what we can know about the hulc.
  24. liteflight
    Who have you brought to life? i love the boat - well fabricated that man! A thought has just occurred to me. You could cover the plug with strips of baking paper running gunwale to gunwale and secured underneath with tape. Sort of clinker-the-other-way. Then with any luck glue would not find it’s way onto the plug ( and you could marinade it in oil as you suggest) Further thinking- ordinary packing tape is used in the thermal moulding of Depron ( skinned foam polystyrene) to form boat hulls, aircraft fuselages. But it is non stretch, so how about covering the plug with electrical insulting tape, which is pvc and flexible enough to conform to the plug. White glue will not stick to it so the shell should release fairly readily. hmmm Rather than perform thought experiments, perhaps I should make something. The illustration of the boat in the background of your boat is inspiring..... First, carve myself a match
  25. liteflight
    Rudder fixings: Paint adheres to aluminium more securely if treated with an etch primer to etch the surface. But difficulty of soldering might count against it However steel cans are tin-plated steel and are strong, solderable and paintable, as long as the thickness is acceptable My Scots upbringing is always trying to minimise ( preferably eliminate) expenditure, but shim brass is readily available, and it can be chemically blackened, but you would have to buy it! I see you have deployed your giant match again - probably carved from a telegraph pole cut down in a nearby street

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