Dee_Dee

Bob,
 
This looks fantastic!   
 
The camber only needs to be enough to drain off any water that has accumulated on the deck.  The 2-3" drop would be from the centerline, so a 2" drop over 3.5 feet would be 5% and a 3" drop would be 7%. 
 
Apprenticing Land and Sea has a good article about building a MBLS, here's the link:
http://apprenticinglandandsea.com/?p=207
 
This article has some photos, this link will take you to their Photo Bucket Album which has 52 photos (some are duplicates.)  These photos provide a lot of detail and should provide you with a lot of information. 
http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/Arista81/media/Muscongus%20Bay%20Sloop/MBScharitycolor_zpsf77def26.jpg.html
 
As for the fish wells, your shape, is fairly close to Chapelle's drawings.  As for the location of the covers, it appears the location on the Midwest prints IS correct.  It has to do with the way they fished.  I'll add more info on that when I add my deck. 
 
As for the centerboard trunk, have you figured that out?  If needed, I can send you a sketch on how it all fits together.  We used to own a old wooden boat with a centerboard, and I based my build on how that centerboard trunk was constructed and others that I saw.  In one of the photobucket photos shows the centerboard, it weighs 300 pounds (about right) and is only about an inch thick.
 
Also, before you add more frames, take a look at the 'mast shoe' I made to secure the bottom of the mast. 
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/45623_10201348070725979_1000876754_n.jpg
 
 
This is really a facinating build!  Can't wait to see your next update!

Bob
 
I have been patiently waiting your next post and it was worth the wait!  Excellent!  
 
I do have two thoughts:  
There appears to be too much 'curve' on the deck. I'm thinking just a 2 - 3" drop (at scale.)
Where the transom and deck meet, there is no flat area.  I'll send you a couple of photos and some links.
 
I've done more research on the fish wells and their location.  I post this info soon on my build log - and it will be a BIG surprise! 
 
Looking forward to seeing more of your build!
 
Dee Dee

Bob,
 
Love your drawing!  Is this your drawing? 
 
Your build is looking great! 
 
Hope this helps.


1. Caprail & planking – I added planking, but my planking is horizontal. I’ll also be adding a cap rail.
 
2. Filler? Open Gap? Bilge Pump?  See the photo and notes in my build log about the cockpit floor.  Essentially, the floor is too small, I added width to my floor, but a lot of it was sanded off when fairing the frame  

3.  Eliminate Seating?  Can’t find anything definitive, however, I’m inclined to believe these boats DID have seating since you can’t
sit on the deck.  Also, the lobster traps (if used) would sit on the seats while baiting.

4.  Traveller, nailed to deck w/feet.  The traveler would threaded on both ends, the ends go down through the deck, another piece of lumber and then bolted with a wide washer.  The purpose of the additional piece of lumber is to distribute the load that the mainsail puts on the traveler.  If the  traveler was just nailed to the deck, it would rip out.    I’m going to be adding feet / trim to my traveler.

5.  Lobster wells.  The drawing on page 267 show the centerboard trunk is correct and it also shows the handle.  I like your idea of hinged doors, but they might be impractical since this is a no frill work boat.  I moved my wells closer to the cockpit.  As for ergonomics of the fish wells, these boats are long before ‘safety in the work place.’  

6. Centerboard hook – this is right, the hook is attached to a short length of chain which is attached to the centerboard

7.  Companion way.  The door is one piece, slides up and out and stored in the cabin.  At full size, this door is 15" - 18" high

8.  These centerboard boats did not have shouds (see page 266, second to last line.)  Shouds were added on the keeled boats.

9.  Stovepipe – It appears the stovepipe was not on this boat, but was added to the Friendship sloop.

 
Check out the windows on the drawing on page 267 – The windows appears to have a sliding cover and your drawing also appears to have a sliding cover. 

On your drawing, it looks like the bow spit would pivot on the Sampson post, which is common on European fishing boats

Again, love your drawing!
 

Dee Dee


 

Hi Bob,  
 
I’m also working on a Muscongus Smack and am at the exact same spot in the build.  I’m also using Chappelle’s book and added a working rudder, centerboard trunk deck access, fish wells with lids, cabin with centerboard tank.  I might have made a mistake by not adding the rudder before the deck, but I think I know how to fix that.  I also added a floor in the cabin and widened the cockpit floor.
 
Midwest boats are a great way to learn and fun to add detail.  Mario built numerous Midwest boats, here are some links to his builds:
 
Moscongus Lobster Smack
http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?3900
 
Chesapeake Flattie
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/988-chesapeake-bay-flattie-intarsia-124telemancompleted/
 
 
I’ll get some pics of my build posted later today.  
 
Dee Dee
 
 
(Edited to update link to Chesapeake Flattie)

OK Martin, I went back into the alps for a week of voluntary work. A few short breaks to enjoy the scenery were possible.
(I know this is a bit off topic but just too beautiful not to share with those poor fellows which have to live on a seashore.   )
 

the Matterhorn is just visible in the background

PART 5 - DECK PLANKING
 
Per the kit, the deck was to be planked with walnut - very boring.  Instead, the king plank is mahogany, same as the cockpit and the balance is basswood.  I've already added a couple of layers of poly, which brings out the color variations in the basswood.  In hindsight, I should have used two strips of mahogany for the king plank.  Some of the planks are a big squiggly, but only if you look closely.
Per the kit, the cockpit was the cockpit should be painted.  Instead, I laminated all of the kit parts with 1/64" mahogany and then added numerous coats of poly for a smooth finish.  I still need to add the benches to the cockpit.

 
The hull planking is done, I just need to do a little bit more shaping on the keel.  I have another event tomorrow, so I'll get some photos of the full hull on Monday. 
 
Thanks for stopping by,
 
Dee Dee
 
2/05/2017 update:  Finished!

PART 5 - DECK PLANKING
 
Per the kit, the deck was to be planked with walnut - very boring.  Instead, the king plank is mahogany, same as the cockpit and the balance is basswood.  I've already added a couple of layers of poly, which brings out the color variations in the basswood.  In hindsight, I should have used two strips of mahogany for the king plank.  Some of the planks are a big squiggly, but only if you look closely.
Per the kit, the cockpit was the cockpit should be painted.  Instead, I laminated all of the kit parts with 1/64" mahogany and then added numerous coats of poly for a smooth finish.  I still need to add the benches to the cockpit.

 
The hull planking is done, I just need to do a little bit more shaping on the keel.  I have another event tomorrow, so I'll get some photos of the full hull on Monday. 
 
Thanks for stopping by,
 
Dee Dee
 
2/05/2017 update:  Finished!

PART 4  SECOND PLANKING
 
The wood for the second planking is 4mm x 1mm, I would have preferred 3mm x 1mm, especially between the waterline and the bolt on keel, where I used some 2mm wide strips.  Below the waterline, I switched to basswood in various widths.  In this photo, you can see some of the first planking.

 
Bow Planking, about the 4th plank, I finally got the hang of getting a good fit.  

 
Planking meets the stern section of the false keel.  When I altered the false keel, I added a 1/8" x 1/8" strip of walnut.  The obvious is that this walnut is a much darker species.
It was going to be a challenge to get a tight fit, so after the first planking, I removed the excess false keel.  When I added the second planking, I made a 1/8" channel with slightly beveled sides. 
I also slightly beveled the sides of the walnut filler strip, when I got a good 'press fit', I glued it in, then filed it down.
I didn't plan those alternating color strips - It just turned out that way.  And oops, the planking is slightly off.   

 
Dee Dee

PART 2 - The Bulk heads
 
OK!  Here's the first problem part - Bulkhead #10.

 
The bulkheads are made of basswood plywood and #10 became very distorted. 
When I glued the false deck on, the port side ended up being 1/4" lower than the starboard side!  My eyes started to get watery, thinking I would have to start all over.   After a good think session I came up with a plan.  I built up the droopy false deck section with layers of wood, filler and paper.  I wish I had taken a photo, it really was 1/4" lower!  
I added numerous cuts to the top of the deck to help the false deck curve, but it wasn't enough.  Next time, I'll steam the false deck to fit the curve.   
 
If you're going to build this kit (highly recommended!), I suggest laminating bulkhead #10 with layers of 1/32" birch plywood on both sides.  Do this before you do any test fitting, this bulkhead is extremely fragile and will start to distort the first time you pick it up. 
 
Those pieces attached to the false keel are bulkhead fillers.  Per the print, I beveled them on the bottom side.  If I build this model again, I would just lop off 1/8" and let the first planking land on false keel.  This would make the first planking a lot easier.  

 
 
 
 
PART 3 - COCKPIT AND FIRST PLANKING
 
I don't have any photos building the cockpit.  All I can say is there's a logical order that the parts all fit.  Just figure it out, understand that the sides of the cockpit need to bow outward.  Also, I added numerous 'glue blocks' to the bulkheads to increase the glue surface for the cockpit parts.    
 
The wood for the first planking is lime wood and measures 13/64" wide x 1/16" thick (5mm x 1.6mm).  This is my next complaint about this kit - This wood is way too wide for this hull shape.  I replace it with basswood, measuring 1/8", 3/32", 1/16" x 1/16".  This narrower wood was much easier to work with on the first planking.
 
Trying to figure out where the first planking should end took a while to figure out.  The back end of the keel needs to be the same 1/8" and the second planking needs to blend into the bolt on keel.  So, the bottom of the first planking had to end above the bolt on keel, and also keep the curve of the hull.    
 
I don't have any photos of just the first planking.  Here's a drawing from the prints, I removed all of the extra lines so it would be easier to see.  The red lines show where I ended the first planking.  The lines are extension of the hull lines.  Next time, I would move these lines up, about 1/8".  

 
I do have this photo which shows the bottom of the first planking.  The dragon has a bolt on keel, so the first planking needs to end above where the keel is bolted on.

 
Half way through the first planking, I found this photo from PhD student Leonardo Bortolami, University of Ferrara for his thesis about best practice in the restoration of historical vessels.  This drawing confirmed my first planking plan was right. 
http://www.classicboat.co.uk/news/yard-news/yard-news-january-2013/
http://www.veledepocaverbano.com/2014/07/19/bentornato-acanto/
Lots of photos here:  http://leonardobortolamienglish.weebly.com/dragon-d-27-acanto-1966.html

 
 
Dee Dee

PART 1  Preparing the Keel 
 
OK!  Here we go!
 
In my sloup build, I learned the importance of doing all the changes / additions to the false keel BEFORE I start building.  This is how the false keel looked out of the box.  YEP!  That spot at the back of the cockpit is a weak spot and I broke it off while making the changes.

 
And this is how the keel looked after the changes!   

 
I removed 1/8" from the keel and replaced it with walnut.  The curve section was built back up with strips of 1/64" walnut and CA and the straight parts with 1/8" walnut stock.  The Dragon mast shoe also needed some work!  The mast rises +16" above the deck, but the mast shoe was only 1/4" deep.  The slot for the mast was increased, on both sides it's lined / reinforced and it's a very snug fit!
 
This drawing shows the kit planking plan.  If the hull was painted, I would only add a strip of 1/64" walnut to the basswood keel to prevent the wood from eroding.  But I'm not painting the hull above the waterline and don't want white basswood showing when I plank.
  
 
Dee Dee

The classic wood Dragon sailboat. 
 
The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker from Norway in 1929.  The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe.  It's one of the worlds most popular keelboats with Dragon Fleets the world over.  Between 1948 and 1972 the Dragon class was raced in the Olympic Games.  The early boats were constructed of wood but during the early 1970s fiberglass boats were developed. The controlled development of the class has lead to a classic yet modern keelboat.
 
Back in the day, there were two Dragons moored at Montrose Harbor, 'Sea Pup' was one.  Dragons sit low in the water and they are the fastest looking boats in the harbor.  The classic wood Dragons are just plain gorgeous!  Be still my heart.    
  
I purchased the Corel 1:25 Dragon kit a few years ago.  As usual I'll be making some changes to the build.  Most significant change is the hull will only be painted below the water line.  The wood that came with the kit is nice and will look good with a varnish finish.  My collection of modeling tools will fit inside a shoe box with room for the shoes:  Straightedge razor blades, metal files in two sizes, X-acto knife with #11 blades, wire cutters, various sanding sticks that I made, sandpaper, micro drill, CA and PVA glue, a digital caliper and a 6" metal ruler that doubles as a scraper.  For some of the decking and mast, I'll add a soldering iron.     
 
On woodenboat.com there's a thread titled "Time for a Dragon Thread" with lots of eye candy photos.  Check it out!  The new Dragons are high tech boats.  Here's an except from an article about Dragons by Matthew Sheahan in Yachting World, July 3, 2015.  The new fiberglass Dragons look fast, but they have too many "strings".  Check out that photo of the bolt on keel being machined.    
 
The Corel Dragon kit is the typical Corel kit, great drawings, nice wood, lots of little parts and instructions that are less than so-so.  But the drawings are great and have logic to the way they are laid out. 
 
I started building 'Puff' last Spring.  But between June 1 and August 30, I spent 35 days on the road at out of state events, another 25 days at local events and a few more days for event preparation and post event paperwork and poof! Where did the summer go?  
 
The hull planking is done and starting to work on the cuddy and add the benches to the cockpit.  The hull will be painted below the waterline, right now I'm thinking a teal blue or ultramarine blue.  Above the waterline, I'll add a few coats of poly. 
 
I don't have a lot of photos, but enough to recreate the build.      
 
Dee Dee
 
 
 
Chris Destano, 5 River Road  #123, Wilton CT 
 

PART 5 - DECK PLANKING
 
Per the kit, the deck was to be planked with walnut - very boring.  Instead, the king plank is mahogany, same as the cockpit and the balance is basswood.  I've already added a couple of layers of poly, which brings out the color variations in the basswood.  In hindsight, I should have used two strips of mahogany for the king plank.  Some of the planks are a big squiggly, but only if you look closely.
Per the kit, the cockpit was the cockpit should be painted.  Instead, I laminated all of the kit parts with 1/64" mahogany and then added numerous coats of poly for a smooth finish.  I still need to add the benches to the cockpit.

 
The hull planking is done, I just need to do a little bit more shaping on the keel.  I have another event tomorrow, so I'll get some photos of the full hull on Monday. 
 
Thanks for stopping by,
 
Dee Dee
 
2/05/2017 update:  Finished!

The classic wood Dragon sailboat. 
 
The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker from Norway in 1929.  The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe.  It's one of the worlds most popular keelboats with Dragon Fleets the world over.  Between 1948 and 1972 the Dragon class was raced in the Olympic Games.  The early boats were constructed of wood but during the early 1970s fiberglass boats were developed. The controlled development of the class has lead to a classic yet modern keelboat.
 
Back in the day, there were two Dragons moored at Montrose Harbor, 'Sea Pup' was one.  Dragons sit low in the water and they are the fastest looking boats in the harbor.  The classic wood Dragons are just plain gorgeous!  Be still my heart.    
  
I purchased the Corel 1:25 Dragon kit a few years ago.  As usual I'll be making some changes to the build.  Most significant change is the hull will only be painted below the water line.  The wood that came with the kit is nice and will look good with a varnish finish.  My collection of modeling tools will fit inside a shoe box with room for the shoes:  Straightedge razor blades, metal files in two sizes, X-acto knife with #11 blades, wire cutters, various sanding sticks that I made, sandpaper, micro drill, CA and PVA glue, a digital caliper and a 6" metal ruler that doubles as a scraper.  For some of the decking and mast, I'll add a soldering iron.     
 
On woodenboat.com there's a thread titled "Time for a Dragon Thread" with lots of eye candy photos.  Check it out!  The new Dragons are high tech boats.  Here's an except from an article about Dragons by Matthew Sheahan in Yachting World, July 3, 2015.  The new fiberglass Dragons look fast, but they have too many "strings".  Check out that photo of the bolt on keel being machined.    
 
The Corel Dragon kit is the typical Corel kit, great drawings, nice wood, lots of little parts and instructions that are less than so-so.  But the drawings are great and have logic to the way they are laid out. 
 
I started building 'Puff' last Spring.  But between June 1 and August 30, I spent 35 days on the road at out of state events, another 25 days at local events and a few more days for event preparation and post event paperwork and poof! Where did the summer go?  
 
The hull planking is done and starting to work on the cuddy and add the benches to the cockpit.  The hull will be painted below the waterline, right now I'm thinking a teal blue or ultramarine blue.  Above the waterline, I'll add a few coats of poly. 
 
I don't have a lot of photos, but enough to recreate the build.      
 
Dee Dee
 
 
 
Chris Destano, 5 River Road  #123, Wilton CT 
 

The classic wood Dragon sailboat. 
 
The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker from Norway in 1929.  The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe.  It's one of the worlds most popular keelboats with Dragon Fleets the world over.  Between 1948 and 1972 the Dragon class was raced in the Olympic Games.  The early boats were constructed of wood but during the early 1970s fiberglass boats were developed. The controlled development of the class has lead to a classic yet modern keelboat.
 
Back in the day, there were two Dragons moored at Montrose Harbor, 'Sea Pup' was one.  Dragons sit low in the water and they are the fastest looking boats in the harbor.  The classic wood Dragons are just plain gorgeous!  Be still my heart.    
  
I purchased the Corel 1:25 Dragon kit a few years ago.  As usual I'll be making some changes to the build.  Most significant change is the hull will only be painted below the water line.  The wood that came with the kit is nice and will look good with a varnish finish.  My collection of modeling tools will fit inside a shoe box with room for the shoes:  Straightedge razor blades, metal files in two sizes, X-acto knife with #11 blades, wire cutters, various sanding sticks that I made, sandpaper, micro drill, CA and PVA glue, a digital caliper and a 6" metal ruler that doubles as a scraper.  For some of the decking and mast, I'll add a soldering iron.     
 
On woodenboat.com there's a thread titled "Time for a Dragon Thread" with lots of eye candy photos.  Check it out!  The new Dragons are high tech boats.  Here's an except from an article about Dragons by Matthew Sheahan in Yachting World, July 3, 2015.  The new fiberglass Dragons look fast, but they have too many "strings".  Check out that photo of the bolt on keel being machined.    
 
The Corel Dragon kit is the typical Corel kit, great drawings, nice wood, lots of little parts and instructions that are less than so-so.  But the drawings are great and have logic to the way they are laid out. 
 
I started building 'Puff' last Spring.  But between June 1 and August 30, I spent 35 days on the road at out of state events, another 25 days at local events and a few more days for event preparation and post event paperwork and poof! Where did the summer go?  
 
The hull planking is done and starting to work on the cuddy and add the benches to the cockpit.  The hull will be painted below the waterline, right now I'm thinking a teal blue or ultramarine blue.  Above the waterline, I'll add a few coats of poly. 
 
I don't have a lot of photos, but enough to recreate the build.      
 
Dee Dee
 
 
 
Chris Destano, 5 River Road  #123, Wilton CT 
 

Hi Again Folks .. I managed to get some more work done on Ballier today and took some quick photos of the current state of affairs (Sorry in advance for the poor quality, it's kinda dull in Arklow (Home Town) at the moment and I'm sure you don't want to see the state of my Build Table so I covered it with an old sea chart.. kinda appropriate  )
Anyhoo .. The deck fittings are almost all in place now .. all that is left are the Elm Tree Pumps, which are already made up and await fitting ! The Bowsprit/Jib boom is only 'dry' fitted and the Rudder Tiller Arm just needs to be finished off with a 'strengthening'  band around the Rudder Head, and perhaps something around the end of the Tiller itself .
You may be able to see where I diverged from the Kit in the shape of the Jib Boom inboard end deck fitting (where it will be 'secured') I dispensed with the Kit supplied piece and made up a 'better' fitting as discussed and photographed earlier in this log on pg 37 post #730, (least I think it looks Better  ) one of the original plans of the Haddock (same class as Ballahoo) show it done this way, so I must be on the right track ..
 
OK Folks enough Prose .. on with the Photos .. 
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn
 
Oh And Thanks For Dropping By.
 
 

Hey There Dirk .. Thanks for stopping by and for the comment 
 
 I have another photo update. I know right, nothing for almost a year and now 2 in as many hours !!   
 
Well I had a kind of 'strike whilst the iron was hot' moment and decided to get on with the Elm Tree Pumps ... So this is what I did, I mean, they were just sitting there so they might as well be attached to the actual boat 
All deck fittings are glued in place and have a wire drilled into them and then into the deck for added security !
 
Almost time to decide on what to do about the Anchor .. some research will be needed cos the supplied one just looks too big for a small boat like Ballahoo (Ballahoo is approx 55 feet overall)  having been around similar length and indeed longer wooden fishing boats most of my life (I live only a  hundred meters from the Harbour) I have seen the anchors on them and they are much smaller, the anchors on the Sailing ships (many examples of which are dotted around town) which operated from this harbour in the past would have had anchors similar to that supplied with Ballahoo and they were circa 100 to 120 feet or more.. The Anchor size is why I'm confident Ballahoo would not have had a Windless.
 
Take It Easy Folks
 
Eamonn
 
Oh and thanks for all the Likes and Comments are always welcome too !
 
 

There's a couple of ways of attaching grommets:  a grommet press ($60 - $300) or a pair of grommet pliers ($5) (minimum size 3/32").   Or you can make your own 'press' that uses a hammer, but these usually don't work too well and the $5 pliers are a better option.  What ever you use, these grommets will be too bulky and heavy.
 
Here's a couple of suggestions for grommets:
 
Option One: 
Make some very small brass rings from brass wire or saw off ultra thin slices from a brass tube. To stiffen the sail fabric and to keep it from fraying / snagging / twisting, sparingly apply a small dab of CA glue to the location for the grommet.  When the CA glue is dry, drill a hole in the center of the glue spot, just large enough to fit the brass ring.  Then glue the brass ring into the center of the hole in the sail with minimal amount of glue.   
 
Option Two:
Punch some 'circles' out of gold or brass color paper, not too thick.  (Look for a small hole punches at Michaels.)  Glue one circle to each side of the sail, take your time to get these perfectly matched up.  Here's a trick to getting the two sides perfectly matched:  Poke a hole smack dab in the center of each circle with a pin.  When the first side is dry, put a pin thru the pinhole in the glued on circle and then add the second circle.  Test the alignment, if it looks good, add glue to the second circle and press to sail cloth.  Leave the pin in for a few minutes, until the glue has started to set.  
When the glue is dry, flatten the sail and hold it taught on a piece of soft scrap wood.  Slowly 'drill out' / 'file out' the center of the gold circle.  When done drilling out, touch up the inside of the circle with some gold or brass color paint.
Experiment with glue;  If you have fabric specific glue, that's best.  Elmers, slightly diluted should also work well.  Use CA glue sparingly.  Be sure to press the two circles together snug and flat.
 

Ok am back from the Holliers and decided to get going again on the Ballier ... Yup you read that right, it's Update Time Again Woo Hoo 
 
Today's exciting Post is ..... Wait For It ... The Carronade Breech Rope !    
 
I took some time to decide what position to put the guns in  (In or Run Out I Mean) and chose a sort of 'mostly' run in .. am not too sure how far the Carronade would slide inwards on it's sledge, so I experimented and saw that the 'mostly' Run In position cleared the Muzzle of the Bulwark sufficiently and it looked less awkward than Fully Run In (Or where Fully Run In Looked Like, if you follow) but it will be easy to alter at a later stage ! I also left enough slack in the breech rope so it would be tight in the Fully Run In Position.
I Blackened some Eyelets and Rings I had previously made (by winding wire around a drill bitt) assembled them and looped the Breech rope through the Ring and seized the end in place, threaded the other end through the Sledge fittings on both sides and the Carronade itself .. then finally seized it around it's Eyelet & Ring.. The Seizing was fun to do .. and by fun I of course mean flippin' awkward  the knots were held firm by diluted white glue ... See Photo ... That's Right, There are actual Photos Too !!!   
 
Have a great Weekend Folks And Thanks For Stopping By ..
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn 
 
Photo Time Now ...

There's a couple of ways of attaching grommets:  a grommet press ($60 - $300) or a pair of grommet pliers ($5) (minimum size 3/32").   Or you can make your own 'press' that uses a hammer, but these usually don't work too well and the $5 pliers are a better option.  What ever you use, these grommets will be too bulky and heavy.
 
Here's a couple of suggestions for grommets:
 
Option One: 
Make some very small brass rings from brass wire or saw off ultra thin slices from a brass tube. To stiffen the sail fabric and to keep it from fraying / snagging / twisting, sparingly apply a small dab of CA glue to the location for the grommet.  When the CA glue is dry, drill a hole in the center of the glue spot, just large enough to fit the brass ring.  Then glue the brass ring into the center of the hole in the sail with minimal amount of glue.   
 
Option Two:
Punch some 'circles' out of gold or brass color paper, not too thick.  (Look for a small hole punches at Michaels.)  Glue one circle to each side of the sail, take your time to get these perfectly matched up.  Here's a trick to getting the two sides perfectly matched:  Poke a hole smack dab in the center of each circle with a pin.  When the first side is dry, put a pin thru the pinhole in the glued on circle and then add the second circle.  Test the alignment, if it looks good, add glue to the second circle and press to sail cloth.  Leave the pin in for a few minutes, until the glue has started to set.  
When the glue is dry, flatten the sail and hold it taught on a piece of soft scrap wood.  Slowly 'drill out' / 'file out' the center of the gold circle.  When done drilling out, touch up the inside of the circle with some gold or brass color paint.
Experiment with glue;  If you have fabric specific glue, that's best.  Elmers, slightly diluted should also work well.  Use CA glue sparingly.  Be sure to press the two circles together snug and flat.
 

There's a couple of ways of attaching grommets:  a grommet press ($60 - $300) or a pair of grommet pliers ($5) (minimum size 3/32").   Or you can make your own 'press' that uses a hammer, but these usually don't work too well and the $5 pliers are a better option.  What ever you use, these grommets will be too bulky and heavy.
 
Here's a couple of suggestions for grommets:
 
Option One: 
Make some very small brass rings from brass wire or saw off ultra thin slices from a brass tube. To stiffen the sail fabric and to keep it from fraying / snagging / twisting, sparingly apply a small dab of CA glue to the location for the grommet.  When the CA glue is dry, drill a hole in the center of the glue spot, just large enough to fit the brass ring.  Then glue the brass ring into the center of the hole in the sail with minimal amount of glue.   
 
Option Two:
Punch some 'circles' out of gold or brass color paper, not too thick.  (Look for a small hole punches at Michaels.)  Glue one circle to each side of the sail, take your time to get these perfectly matched up.  Here's a trick to getting the two sides perfectly matched:  Poke a hole smack dab in the center of each circle with a pin.  When the first side is dry, put a pin thru the pinhole in the glued on circle and then add the second circle.  Test the alignment, if it looks good, add glue to the second circle and press to sail cloth.  Leave the pin in for a few minutes, until the glue has started to set.  
When the glue is dry, flatten the sail and hold it taught on a piece of soft scrap wood.  Slowly 'drill out' / 'file out' the center of the gold circle.  When done drilling out, touch up the inside of the circle with some gold or brass color paint.
Experiment with glue;  If you have fabric specific glue, that's best.  Elmers, slightly diluted should also work well.  Use CA glue sparingly.  Be sure to press the two circles together snug and flat.
 

There's a couple of ways of attaching grommets:  a grommet press ($60 - $300) or a pair of grommet pliers ($5) (minimum size 3/32").   Or you can make your own 'press' that uses a hammer, but these usually don't work too well and the $5 pliers are a better option.  What ever you use, these grommets will be too bulky and heavy.
 
Here's a couple of suggestions for grommets:
 
Option One: 
Make some very small brass rings from brass wire or saw off ultra thin slices from a brass tube. To stiffen the sail fabric and to keep it from fraying / snagging / twisting, sparingly apply a small dab of CA glue to the location for the grommet.  When the CA glue is dry, drill a hole in the center of the glue spot, just large enough to fit the brass ring.  Then glue the brass ring into the center of the hole in the sail with minimal amount of glue.   
 
Option Two:
Punch some 'circles' out of gold or brass color paper, not too thick.  (Look for a small hole punches at Michaels.)  Glue one circle to each side of the sail, take your time to get these perfectly matched up.  Here's a trick to getting the two sides perfectly matched:  Poke a hole smack dab in the center of each circle with a pin.  When the first side is dry, put a pin thru the pinhole in the glued on circle and then add the second circle.  Test the alignment, if it looks good, add glue to the second circle and press to sail cloth.  Leave the pin in for a few minutes, until the glue has started to set.  
When the glue is dry, flatten the sail and hold it taught on a piece of soft scrap wood.  Slowly 'drill out' / 'file out' the center of the gold circle.  When done drilling out, touch up the inside of the circle with some gold or brass color paint.
Experiment with glue;  If you have fabric specific glue, that's best.  Elmers, slightly diluted should also work well.  Use CA glue sparingly.  Be sure to press the two circles together snug and flat.
 

Julie,
 
I'm currently building the Corel Dragon which has a similar hull style.  Your thoughts about a laminated keel is what I did with the Dragon keel.  However, I laminated the keel as the very first step of this build.  Here's what the Dragon false keel looked like this out of the box.  

 
If I was going to paint the hull, I'd just add one layer of 1/64" walnut to minimize the erosion of the basswood.  But since this hull will be 'au natural',  I altered the false keel before starting the build.  I removed ~1/8" of the false keel and then I built it back up with layers of 1/64" walnut and CA glue.  And this is how the false keel looked before I started building.  The mast shoe is a very snug fit!       

 
Getting back to your original question:  Yes, it's possible to adjust the false keel.    I'm just about done with the first planking and I had to do this on the walnut under the stern section.  The walnut turned dark and didn't match the second planking.  I removed the walnut and added back a few layers of walnut.  
 
Here's a photo of the bow with the first planking.  I trimmed a bit of the first planking, to make sure the second planking will have a smooth and even run and landing. 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Dee Dee

Julie,
 
I'm currently building the Corel Dragon which has a similar hull style.  Your thoughts about a laminated keel is what I did with the Dragon keel.  However, I laminated the keel as the very first step of this build.  Here's what the Dragon false keel looked like this out of the box.  

 
If I was going to paint the hull, I'd just add one layer of 1/64" walnut to minimize the erosion of the basswood.  But since this hull will be 'au natural',  I altered the false keel before starting the build.  I removed ~1/8" of the false keel and then I built it back up with layers of 1/64" walnut and CA glue.  And this is how the false keel looked before I started building.  The mast shoe is a very snug fit!       

 
Getting back to your original question:  Yes, it's possible to adjust the false keel.    I'm just about done with the first planking and I had to do this on the walnut under the stern section.  The walnut turned dark and didn't match the second planking.  I removed the walnut and added back a few layers of walnut.  
 
Here's a photo of the bow with the first planking.  I trimmed a bit of the first planking, to make sure the second planking will have a smooth and even run and landing. 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Dee Dee

Julie,
 
I'm currently building the Corel Dragon which has a similar hull style.  Your thoughts about a laminated keel is what I did with the Dragon keel.  However, I laminated the keel as the very first step of this build.  Here's what the Dragon false keel looked like this out of the box.  

 
If I was going to paint the hull, I'd just add one layer of 1/64" walnut to minimize the erosion of the basswood.  But since this hull will be 'au natural',  I altered the false keel before starting the build.  I removed ~1/8" of the false keel and then I built it back up with layers of 1/64" walnut and CA glue.  And this is how the false keel looked before I started building.  The mast shoe is a very snug fit!       

 
Getting back to your original question:  Yes, it's possible to adjust the false keel.    I'm just about done with the first planking and I had to do this on the walnut under the stern section.  The walnut turned dark and didn't match the second planking.  I removed the walnut and added back a few layers of walnut.  
 
Here's a photo of the bow with the first planking.  I trimmed a bit of the first planking, to make sure the second planking will have a smooth and even run and landing. 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Dee Dee

Julie,
 
I'm currently building the Corel Dragon which has a similar hull style.  Your thoughts about a laminated keel is what I did with the Dragon keel.  However, I laminated the keel as the very first step of this build.  Here's what the Dragon false keel looked like this out of the box.  

 
If I was going to paint the hull, I'd just add one layer of 1/64" walnut to minimize the erosion of the basswood.  But since this hull will be 'au natural',  I altered the false keel before starting the build.  I removed ~1/8" of the false keel and then I built it back up with layers of 1/64" walnut and CA glue.  And this is how the false keel looked before I started building.  The mast shoe is a very snug fit!       

 
Getting back to your original question:  Yes, it's possible to adjust the false keel.    I'm just about done with the first planking and I had to do this on the walnut under the stern section.  The walnut turned dark and didn't match the second planking.  I removed the walnut and added back a few layers of walnut.  
 
Here's a photo of the bow with the first planking.  I trimmed a bit of the first planking, to make sure the second planking will have a smooth and even run and landing. 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Dee Dee