Dee_Dee

I have proclaimed the lower hull planking finished!  In the end I applied three coats of sanding sealer and one coat of flat finish.  This was sanded to 1200 grit.  The finish coat adds luster without shine and is a harder finish than the sanding sealer.  The upper planking will be finished with Watco's to match the rest of the Costello after the channels, moldings, etc. have been installed.  I repainted the wale and put her back in the cradle.  
 

 

 

 

 

Eamon,
 
Your Ballahoo is coming along nicely.  Nice job on making the masts.
 
In regards to walnut masts, I 'burnished' the walnut masts to dark and even finish.  I used a 1" cherry wood craft block, the same blocks I use to square the bulkheads to the false keel.  The burnishing gives a hard and smooth finish and no poly required.   You can see the results in the third photo from this MBLS build log entry:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4670-muscongus-bay-lobster-smack-by-dee-dee-from-midwest-to-chapelle-124-small/page-7#entry19102
 
Ha!  You're writing "Pegs, Pins and Clamps" and I'm writing "As the Plank Cracks".   If we collaborate on a book, we could call it "How to Crack a Plank and Clamp it Too"!
 
You letter to Santa is similar to mine.     
 
Dee Dee
 
 

Thursday 11 December 2014
 
It didn't feel like I accomplished much
 
made two very nice wooden cleats to mount on the main boom
Drilled and pined
Glued to the boom
Clamped
 
then they broke
 
Decided to follow the KISS principle and made them out of the 22 gauge wire
 
Started smoothing/sanding the mast hoop edges
I am very happy with these
They look like real wood (well paper is a wood by-product) and they contrast very nicely on the mast
I have 7 more to go on the foremast to be done with them

Wednesday 11 December 2014
 
The roll of stained and glued newsprint had dried considerably through the day, not yet 100% but enough to allow cutting... and I was able to reinsert the dowel!
​I cut 14 mast hoops for the main mast and 13 for the foremast ... with material left over.
They need to dry more and as they are thinner and open I imagine this will be quick.
They require some sanding on the edges.
 
I also installed eyelets on the masts, booms and gaffs
 

Hi everyone! There's a lot on my plate at the moment, so I haven't had time to be as active as I'd like lately.
 
I have finished the skankläder (war cloth?) for the tops. I then started with the tackles. I was surprised how much work they where. First I reshaped all the block to make them more like the real ones. Then I drilled the holes slightly bigger to fit the ropes I wanted. After that I made the hooks connecting them to the channels before putting the tackles in place.
 
 
/Matti
 

 

 

 

Alan,
Your co-workers father in law will have a very merry Christmas.  
I make mast hoops in a similar manner as described by Druxey.  But instead of using wood shavings, I make them one at a time, using a US dollar bill, rag paper or under layers of silver birch bark. Birch bark can be stained just like wood.  It's quick, easy, with good results and the finished mast hoops are incredibly strong.  I completed 13 mast hoops in an afternoon (that includes the two hours needed for the glue to dry).  I did a quick how to on my build log:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4670-muscongus-bay-lobster-smack-by-dee-dee-from-midwest-to-chapelle-124-small/page-6#entry186900
 
A couple of photos of results.  The black hoop is a dollar bill stained with a black Sharpie Marker, yellow is unstained birch bark and white is high % rag paper / stationary:  

 
 

 
Dee Dee
 
 

Alan,
Your co-workers father in law will have a very merry Christmas.  
I make mast hoops in a similar manner as described by Druxey.  But instead of using wood shavings, I make them one at a time, using a US dollar bill, rag paper or under layers of silver birch bark. Birch bark can be stained just like wood.  It's quick, easy, with good results and the finished mast hoops are incredibly strong.  I completed 13 mast hoops in an afternoon (that includes the two hours needed for the glue to dry).  I did a quick how to on my build log:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4670-muscongus-bay-lobster-smack-by-dee-dee-from-midwest-to-chapelle-124-small/page-6#entry186900
 
A couple of photos of results.  The black hoop is a dollar bill stained with a black Sharpie Marker, yellow is unstained birch bark and white is high % rag paper / stationary:  

 
 

 
Dee Dee
 
 

Alan,
Your co-workers father in law will have a very merry Christmas.  
I make mast hoops in a similar manner as described by Druxey.  But instead of using wood shavings, I make them one at a time, using a US dollar bill, rag paper or under layers of silver birch bark. Birch bark can be stained just like wood.  It's quick, easy, with good results and the finished mast hoops are incredibly strong.  I completed 13 mast hoops in an afternoon (that includes the two hours needed for the glue to dry).  I did a quick how to on my build log:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4670-muscongus-bay-lobster-smack-by-dee-dee-from-midwest-to-chapelle-124-small/page-6#entry186900
 
A couple of photos of results.  The black hoop is a dollar bill stained with a black Sharpie Marker, yellow is unstained birch bark and white is high % rag paper / stationary:  

 
 

 
Dee Dee
 
 

And finally ... all the little bits and pieces have found their place and the scenery has been populated. Below some impressions of the completed model. More pictures can be found here: http://www.wefalck.eu/mm/maritime/models/botter/botter.html
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
This is the end of my Noord-Holland nostalgia project.

Keith
Paper is definitely more flexible than veneer.  Do you have any cherry you can make shavings from?  A shaving is already curled making it easier to wrap.  I like the results using the under layers of white birch bark, that can be stained to get desired color.  Below I have included a close up photo of various materials.      
 
Bob
Eventually you will get to this point - And your hull looks magnificent!  
 
Jesse
Ditto! Learning something new is priceless!
 
Eamonn
Yes, a £5 note is a bit expensive to use for mast hoops.  There are other papers that will provide excellent results.  The white mast hoop was made from high rag content stationary.  The paper is a bit thicker, so I 'flexed' the paper before using and it looks good.  You should be able to purchase various papers from an art supply store or a printer that specialized in invitations.     
 
Here's a few more close ups:  From left to right, dollar bill, inner layers of birch bark (this one is 1.1mm thick) and the white one is high rag content stationary.  On the side view you can see the three layers of the birch bark.
 

 

 

Keith and Jesse asked about how I made my mast hoops.  I use a process similar to how others make mast hoops out of wood shaving, I'm just using a different material. 
 
When I was building my Phantom, I didn't like the idea of using a strip of manila file folder for the mast hoops, so I came up with an alternative way to make them.  I've been using this method whenever a wood mast hoop was needed. 
The hoops for the main mast were made first.  This is where I learned that I needed to color the paper before wrapping.  If you look close, you can still see some green.  The foremast on my Phantom has 14 mast hoops with a total stack height of 11mm, the hoops average .7mm. 
 
The main mast has 15 mast hoops and you can still see some green.     The foremast has 14 mast hoops and look better
                                               
 
Some of the foremast hoops are .5mm thick.  

 
My preference is a dollar bill with a little bit of even wear, primarily because it is economical.  Other options include stationary with high rag content, parchment paper.  One of the best and most authentic looking materials I've experimented with to make mast hoops is silver birch bark.  I used the under bark and the mast hoops look like they were made from cherry. 
 
Samples of various materials:  Stationary with high rag content, dollar bill and four made from the bark of a silver birch.  The mast hoop on top was not blackened until after it was made, impossible to get a permanent color on the top and bottom  

 
The paper should be strong enough to facilitate wrapping, yet worn enough to wrap smoothly and allow the CA glue to soak through.
Please don't get put off with CA glue.  With a little bit of tweaking, PVA or other glues can be used, I've just never tried using other glues.  Please!  Experiment and add your findings.
 
So far, I've only used a black Sharpie permanent marker to ink both sides of the dollar bill.  Yep, it's boring, yet correct since many mast hoops were tarred.  Sharpies permanent markers also come in brown.  The color needs to be added before gluing.  There are other color options, but whatever you use, it just needs to soak through the paper completely.  
 
The first step is to add color to the paper while it is still a full sheet. Add color to both sides.  I used black since some mast hoops were tarred.
Cut thin strips of paper.  The width of these strips will vary per the finished size of the mast hoop. For my MBLS, the strips were 2mm wide and the finished height is 1.5mm or 1.5" in scale

 
Curl one end of the paper strip to start the wrapping. 
 
The MBLS mast is 5mm, so I used a 6mm dowel for form the mast hoops.  Wax the dowel to prevent hoops from sticking. 
 
Do 1.5 wraps before adding glue, add a small dab of glue to start the wrapping.  I use a bamboo skewer to apply the glue. 
Check to make sure future wraps will be straight and even.  Add glue to the next inch of strip and wrap.  Any excess glue will get squeezed forward.  Add glue to the next inch of strip and wrap.  Repeat to desired thickness.     
Take your time with wrapping, if the wrapping is straight and even, less sanding will be needed.  The finished size of the MBLS are 1.5mm.
 
At this point, the hoops have some strength, but they need more.    
Give hoops a good soaking in gap filling CA, then place on waxed paper and allow to cure for at least two hours.  
 
 
 
Finishing the hoops is straight forward:
 
Sand the ID to get rid of any excess glue. 
Sand the OD to blend the edge of the paper.   
 
Sand the top and bottom edges down to desired height,  When sanding, be sure to keep the hoop on the center of your fingertip to sand evenly.  If your wrapping is straight, you can start with a strip that is close to the finished size.   
  
I repeat the soak in gap filler to fill any new gaps and sanding.  I think it's a good idea, but it's up to you. 
 
Touch up the color and add a thin coat of glue to seal. 
 
I buffed mine for a final smooth finish. 
 
And VOILA!  You have mast rings.   

Alan,
Your co-workers father in law will have a very merry Christmas.  
I make mast hoops in a similar manner as described by Druxey.  But instead of using wood shavings, I make them one at a time, using a US dollar bill, rag paper or under layers of silver birch bark. Birch bark can be stained just like wood.  It's quick, easy, with good results and the finished mast hoops are incredibly strong.  I completed 13 mast hoops in an afternoon (that includes the two hours needed for the glue to dry).  I did a quick how to on my build log:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4670-muscongus-bay-lobster-smack-by-dee-dee-from-midwest-to-chapelle-124-small/page-6#entry186900
 
A couple of photos of results.  The black hoop is a dollar bill stained with a black Sharpie Marker, yellow is unstained birch bark and white is high % rag paper / stationary:  

 
 

 
Dee Dee
 
 

Thank you everyone for the likes
 
Painting and staining some bits. Not quite done with the painting yet.
The rings and little blocks are the mast shelf ring s that the sail hoops will rest on.
 
I made 1 of 28 mast hoops for the sails (not in the photo below)
I used two hole saws, one inside the other (5/8" and 1") to cut the hoop out of 1/8" melamine.
It looks good by itself but when on the mast seems too large a diameter and too sloppy a fit.
 
I'll have to try a 1/2" drill bit in a 3/4" or 7/8" hole saw cutter.
This may end up being a two step operation which will then be very tricky to keep the holes centered to each other.
 
 

Completed the NEW fife rail and spaced the pins a wee bit.
I think this version looks better
... also added the boom crutch
 
The crutch and pins will be stained
the remainder painted white
 
Spent the afternoon twisting up 55 eyelets
By my calculations I may need another 30+
 

most actors are afraid of it happening to them......I guess it can happen to modelers too......I've been stereotyped    not that it's a bad thing Dee Dee........the M&M Fun Ship is my best concept build so far.   I'm hoping to surpass it,  but I'm finding it to be an uphill battle.  the admiral covets that ship........I STILL can't put a finger on it!  {not that I would ever change a thing to it}.   it's still relatively safe....but one of these days,  I need to make a case for it.   I like that commercial too.......thanks! 
 
thanks Nenad for the good word!   got a bit more to do on this one,  but then I'll have to get a move on with the tree boat,  and get that one up to speed 

Popeye,
Your builds are fun to read - you never know what you're going to learn! 
For some reason, whenever I hear this commercial on the tele, I think of you!!  

I finished the framing on the front wall.   now the objective here will be to get the wall sheeted and the side rails on.
 

 
after sheeting the port side lower portion,  the side rail was installed.
 

 
then it was to continue sheeting the wall with the bits and pieces I have lying around.
 

 
the starboard lower portion was put in place.
 

 
then the starboard side rail was added.
 

 
outside of the trimming around the door and windows,  the wall is done.
 

 

 
 
 
 

She's really coming along.  Very nice.
 
Bob

Dang D.. that thing looks REAL !  Beautiful Work (as usual)
 
That little extra height is brilliant too. 
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn

Starbuck knees, now I've seen everything.

So is this now a Coffequillier, or would that be Cafe'quillier... 
 
Nice updates and work Dee Dee. She looking Awesome.

Piet,  
My first MBLS was a minor bash - All of the photos from this build went 'missing', I'm working on adding these back.  One photo is the drawing from Chapelle's book which should help.    
My second MBLS was a major bash - the final model contains only 6 parts from the kit and all of them were altered (2nd + 3rd bulkhead, transom, two cockpit combings and the cut water). This build has a working rudder, centerboard, fish wells, hatch opening, full cabin, floor boards in the cockpit and cabin, mast step, port side bunk and is single planked in walnut.  I've added back most of these photos, should have all added back soon.
 
The links to these builds are in my signature.     
 
Dee Dee
 
 

Piet,  
My first MBLS was a minor bash - All of the photos from this build went 'missing', I'm working on adding these back.  One photo is the drawing from Chapelle's book which should help.    
My second MBLS was a major bash - the final model contains only 6 parts from the kit and all of them were altered (2nd + 3rd bulkhead, transom, two cockpit combings and the cut water). This build has a working rudder, centerboard, fish wells, hatch opening, full cabin, floor boards in the cockpit and cabin, mast step, port side bunk and is single planked in walnut.  I've added back most of these photos, should have all added back soon.
 
The links to these builds are in my signature.     
 
Dee Dee
 
 

Thanks everybody for visiting my new kit build and your comments.
 
Hi Dee Dee, Oh I would love to get Chapelle's book, I'll check with Amazon or other book stores.  I have two books by him, "The Search for Speed Under Sail" and "The History of American Sailing Ships."  My bashing will probably not be into the extreme but just making it interesting.
Coffee bar is okay, there is plenty in the Bunn brewer thingy and cookies too  No popcorn though, Sjors is the keeper of that one.
 
Hi Brian, good to see you too and thanks for the welcome in the kit section.  Thank you also for your generosity in offering your input.  Yup, I like to get any input you have to offer.  I'll be checking in on your build log if that's okay.
Aviation is a real challenging way of earning a living, there is a lot of money in it - - - I know, I left a lot of it there  I have been in it since 1952.  Started out as an airframe and engine mechanic, got authorized by the FAA to certify aircraft airworthy after work was done to them.  From there I just moved up the ladder and enjoyed the trip.  Yeah, I actually was instrumental in creating new rules and special inspections recommended by the NTSB.  It's been interesting.
 
Hoi there Adriaan, good to see you in my new dockyard right next to the VOC ship and my father's O19 submarine.  As mentioned in my short intro this kit is meant for a good cause and instead of offering version 1.0 of the O19 dinghy or making a larger version of a Dutch dinghy I was contemplating of making for Dave's shindig I thought it better to make a true American fishing boat from the days before engines.
I hope that with what I have gained in experience building the three ships scratch this should not pose too many problems.
 
Cheers to all, 

Hey Piet!
 
I've built the MBLS twice and it's a great kit for bashing, having fun, learning, creating......  and more!  
 
FWIW, Chapelle's book "American Small Sailing Craft" is the 'go to' soure for bashing this kit.   
 
I'll just take a seat at the coffee bar.  
Dee Dee