clogger

Love your work.  Not sure if this has been asked before but where did you get the figures from?  Are there 1/32 or 1/35 figures similar to these available?

Myself, I would leave the bases off the figures eventually so as to make them more realistic looking in their position on the ship. 

Stunning!

Thanks No Idea. 

BTW a rigged version of your ship would be the ultimate reference for every future Le Rochefort builder!

No Idea, I’ve been so intimidated by your incredible build that I confess I couldn’t look anymore as I fear I would have given up on my far more inferior efforts.  However I am at last at the rigging stage with my 1/36 Le Rochefort. Hope you don’t mind me sharing my ship.

Don’t look too closely as there are a lot of little errors. 

Ah100m Lovethe sails.  Any chance of a description of your sail making technique?

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I think I’ll go the wood carving way. I’ll can cut and paste the plan parts onto some boxwood and off I’ll go.  Painting the anchors for realism shouldn’t be a problem for me.  

Hers a photo of the plan

Thanks for the replies. 
I might just make them out of wood.
I was wondering how hard it would be to cut the shape out of brass?

obviously the stock would be made of wood, maybe the flukes as well, but the shank could be metal?

I need two sets of anchors for my 1/36 scale French port yacht. One anchor needs to be approx 5x5cm and the other about 4x4. I have the plans 1:1.  Just wondering the best way to make these anchors.  I am not in possession of a metal lathe however.  

HaHa

Just been using my Mitre as a thin strip jig on my Byrnes saw.  But I like the one above.  Might scratch build my own version.

Looks amazing. You know the fit is good when the transom pieces sit happily in position without gluing!

I suspect this ship will be more precisionally built and engineered than the original!

Thanks No Idea, it did have me confused for a while.

I found it difficult to know which line to follow exactly when cutting out the template for the main plywood piece from the plans owing to the confusion of lines on the plans!

Again your work is truly inspiring!

Very impressive!!

Well spottted No Idea.  I presume the larger the scale conversion the larger the error seen?

I too have been using the exploded parts B, and have made a coulpe of attemps already at getting this right.  

Would you be able to salvage parts by cutting out the overlaid pattern? That should save some time and wood.

Such precision!

It must start to get very exciting the moment you can place the frames onto the keel. I presume you will have a jig organised for this.  It will interesting to see how you make the jig.

Nice and Square!!

Hi  No Idea.  Are you milling or hand carving the rebate on the stern post/stem post etc?  And could you show a picture of your method if possible?

Very very neat!

Grsjax

1 hour ago, grsjax said:

Using a hollow ground planer blade in a table saw you can cut pieces as thin a .04" thick.  A zero tolerance insert and a precision fence is required.  Using a sliding table is better.  Still have a large kerf but for some common woods that isn't a big problem.

What/How? do you use a hollow ground plane blade?

I have a 10" table saw and wondered if anyone uses these large tablesaws  (as opposed to the Brynes/Proxxon types) for fine wood cutting?

Does anyone recommend a saw blade for such work? What would be the pros and cons?

Thanks, I might send a PM later.

With the milling, how are you judging the depth each time, do you have a setdepth guage, or are you scrbing lines first with a sharp knife?

Thanks for the replies.

What do you mean by the 'floor side'?