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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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On the top left hand side of my camera (looking at it from the back of the camera) there is a wheel with a mark of "WB" on it, along with other marks. Is that the mark that should be set to WB? It was set on a different mark.- 89 replies
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Thanks Greg. Saving those for the very last thing. Wanted those deck decals to be good and dry.
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Re shot the pictures indoors. Much better now and didn't have to read that silly owner's manual. 😏
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I don't know what kind of Jedi mind tricks my camera is playing on me today. Apparently it doesn't like the settings for outdoor pictures, but I have no idea what settings to change unless I read the owner's manual. I guess I better start reading the manual, but no time for that now. Got to go to a birthday party.
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By the way, that's a great video on these LCS's, Lou. Impressive ships. I really like the two additional gun pods mounted on the Freedom. In time, will likely build that model, too.
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Looking at the above picture from the angle it's taken, the ship has a strange looking dark tint to it. I wonder if the hull is coated with some kind of radar avoidance coating?
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I am impressed with your tenacity, Grandpa Phil. Your Victory is really shaping up nicely. I must shamefully admit that once I got to the "coppering" of the hull, I backed off and have never picked back up on construction of my HMS Victory. Following your build thread may give me the encouragement needed to start mine back up.
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Well, it's our designated "Littoral Combat Ship." Until now, I guess mostly Coast Guard Cutters would have fit that role. So in that respect, I think this design is the new normal - for this specialty, littoral combat. Not many combat ships I know of can operate in 12 feet of water.
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If someone told us 50 years ago we were going to have warships like this in our navy fleet, we would have thought they were nuts. But here in 2018, this is the norm. Welcome to the 21st century. 😮
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Thanks for stopping by Carl. I believe you are 100% correct about Vallejo paints. In spite of what is said elsewhere about model air paints being airbrush ready, they need 30 - 50% reducer for them to work properly. I have such a large collection of Vallejo paints, it would be too expensive to just give them up. However, I am beginning to experiment with other brands gradually. Problem is, many are not available locally and have to be ordered through the mail.
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Orient Express Sleeping Car 1929 by James H - Amati - 1/32
CDW replied to James H's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Wow, what an impressive model. I am so glad you are sharing this build. Always wanted to see one of these Amati kits built. It will certainly be an influence for me to buy one. -
This is day 8 of this build. Tomorrow I have to attend a birthday party, so not sure if I can finish it then on day 9. But I am reasonably certain I can finish this little project by day 10. And that's about all the time I wanted to spend on this little model.
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Thank you kindly OC for your positive comments. Also, thanks everyone for all the likes.
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Another day, a little closer to the finish line. Must add decals, railing, misc. photo etch. a few odd and end parts, some detail painting/weathering, and a flag to call this finished.
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Anti-foul paint, hull stabilizers, thrust jets, and sonar added.
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I always use the manufacturer's reducer with their own paints, Vallejo reducer in this case. But this bottle could be as much as 2 years old, not really sure when I bought it.
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Deck is painted, vents are shaded in...various details to continue, then some anti foul hull paint.
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This is the paint work done on the Independence today. More to follow tomorrow if everything goes well, landing deck and anti-foul hull paint. After that, the details can be added.
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It's the worst I ever had this Vallejo paint come out of the bottle. Don't know why. Most people I talk to say they use Vallejo Model Air paint straight from the bottle into their airbrush without any reducer. It doesn't work that way for me through my H&S airbrush. If I use it straight from the bottle, it will clog my airbrush every time...and I have even tried it with a larger needle and seat with the same results. Clogs, spitting, and sputtering. It's hard as heck to find a reduced mix ratio that will spray smoothly out of my airbrush. I have some AK Interactive paints on order as they are not available locally, but I was too impatient for them to arrive.
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When she went inside the paint booth and got her first coat of gray paint, I was shocked, it looked horrible! Lumpy, bumpy, and just outright horrible. Vallejo Model Air paints. So I was almost persuaded to wash it all off and start over again, except all the photo etch I put on would be ruined if I did that, as I use a water based acrylic glue for PE, not CA. Second thought was to put another wet coat on and just let it sit all night in hopes it would level itself out while drying. Bingo! It worked. Completely leveled itself out overnight and averted a disaster. if it hadn't leveled out to look decent, I was ready to scrap the whole model and start over again with a new kit. Whew...close call. At the moment, I am weathering the model with pigments, starting from the bow and working toward the stern. Will add some more pigments and a wash or two to get the effect I want. Hopefully, will get this stage of the pigments finished by the end of the day.
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This is the last time you'll see this vivacious, lovely, combat ship naked. She's now ready for paint. I've added all the photo etch I intend to add before paint, so hopefully tomorrow I'll have the beginnings of some paint on her and execute a plan of attack to give her full dress.
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I thought about the same thing you did, Lou. Maybe the deck tie downs were a later development and your photo was an earlier prototype. Since this ship can be mission equipped in anti submarine warfare, I know there are better, more sophisticated anti submarine warfare weapons than depth charges.
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This makes sense. I'll bet the two of you are right. Never saw rafts in a canister like that before now, but it's a new and modern age. Thanks!
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