PeteB

Hi Ed - don't bash yourself up you're doing pretty well getting to where you are with things looking pretty shipshape. I think the  low number of completed models of the Norske on the www shows that a lot of guys have put it back into the cupboard and gone on with something simpler but you’re still in the game.
 
Perhaps I could offer a heads up on a couple of parts that tripped me up - right around where you are now?
 
At first glance part 47 (the lower stern gallery filler piece) appears to be flat if you just look at the sectioned sheer plan or at least it did to me, but in fact when looking from astern the gallery floors curve down from amidships to each outer corner which in turn sets the height of the gallery wings. I didn't notice first time round and had to strip it out and make another.
 
Suggest maybe you use the large Gallery board ? - part 52 - and pin that in place first by referencing the height above the upper deck on the sheer plan. Once you’ve got that in place the legs should then give you the level of the upper gallery deck to pin in place amidships having regard to the deck camber and then the sheer plan showing both the upper deck wings and lower gallery windows sloping down to the waist in line with the Wales.
 
Get the above sorted and you’re home and hosed. Enjoy the rest of your build.

Cheers Pete

That is a dream workshop Gianpiero. I love the way your bench power tools slide out for easy access. And you have your very own museum to boot! Speaking for everyone else here - we're jealous!

This instead is the front room where I stored all my lifelong models......
 

here is my workshop in its current state....!
 




 

Kevin, I'll accommodate you now!
here is my workshop that has just been refurbished:









 
 

I finished with this little decorations:





 

I finally finished the first set of sidewall decorations:
 





 

I continue with the decorations:

I’ve been looking for a solution to the Proxxon 3.2mm max shank size limitation for some time as there are very few standard profiles available in this size and I didn’t want to try and turn down shanks given the hardened metal alloys they are manufactured from.
 
I recently came across a replacement Spindle kit manufactured by a German Firm Usovo which will accept ER 11 collets – 1mm to 7mm - have purchased and installed the new Spindle and very happy so far.
 
The install is very straightforward but I had one gotcha involving the removal of the original Proxxon drive collar. The collar is retained by a 3mm Phillips Head which rounded first try and had to be drilled out.

This isn’t really a problem as the intention is for the original spindle to be discarded but I used an 2mm easy out to remove the remaining part of the screw after I removed the original spindle so as to retain it as a spare.

When fitting the new spindle, I used a new 3mm Hex socket head machine screw to replace the OEM Phillips Head - just a heads up as it isn’t part of the kit. The offending screw is shown in the instruction sheet photo step 5.

Photo 1 - Instruction sheet – see step 5 and 10 for a better view of the retaining screw and drive grommet.

Photo 2 - shows the original Proxxon Spindle, bearings and the Drive collar. I was pretty disappointed to note the pitting and rough machining of the original spindle in what is a new and not inexpensive machine, especially when compared with the kit spindle machining shown in photo 3. 

Photo 3 - Kit contents – note the lower ball race is already pressed in place on the new spindle. Also note the instructions don’t mention the obvious ie that the old bearings have to be removed.

Photo 4 - shows the Hex Head Machine screws used to retain the motor so why didn’t they use one for the drive collar retainer instead of a Phillips head??

Photo 5 – Comparison of Collet holders and old bits removed. The black plastic drive collar is shown but there is a more flexible grommet not shown which press fits over the top of the drive collar

Photo 6 - New spindle installed with collet holder and a 5mm collet. The first run was noticeably quieter with no discernible runout. Very happy so far.

Photo 7 – Range of ER 11 collets 1mm – 7mm. Bought these on line for just under $40 and despite the homey labels they were nicely machined and supplied in individual oil filled plastic bags. Comparison of the 3mm Proxxon to the 3mm ER11 collet.

When using the larger mill bits, one has to have regard to the limited torque available and take shallower cuts but to me this is a easy limitation to accept for the far greater Type and range of standard milling bits available to the ER11 collets than the 3.2mm Proxxon max.

The link to the spindle kit is https://www.usovo.de/en/c/cnc-technology/proxxon-mf70-accessories they were great to deal with and while not cheap at 99 euro for me it offered value for money. There are two versions available for mill serial numbers above or below serial 22852.
They also offer a beautiful planetary reduction gearbox for the earlier serials to give more torque for the larger mill bits – would love one for mine, a later serial, but not in the works at the moment unfortunately.

I have no financial nor any interest in the firm just posted as a heads up for many of us that have the machine. Hope this is of use to others. Cheers Pete.

Short Answer: I’m cheating!
 
Actually, I’m still refining the process.  There are 150+ to make. ID of each ring is 1/32”.  Here’s my process:
 
1.  Make a fixture consisting of a 1/32” diameter aluminum wire embedded in an aluminum block.  There is also a brass ground lug bolted to the block.
 
2.  Make loops of 30 gage tinned copper wire.  Diameter is unimportant.  Ends of wire are lightly twisted and soldered together.
 
3.  Place one end of the loop over the aluminum pin in the fixture.  Chuck the other end in an “eggbeater” type hand drill.  Turn the drill until the loop twists and forms an eye around the 1/32” dia Al pin.
 
4. Solder the twisted tail using my resistance soldering device.
 
5.  Remove from fixture and round up the eye with a tapered pin.
 
I have tried steps 1-4 with success.  In use, the rings will lay flat on the hatch board with the tail cemented into a hole in the board.
 
Roger

I learnt in school about a guy that used to spend a lot of his time working on ceilings - he did great work too. Called michelangelo or something like that... 🙂

Hi Amalio
All your joinery is superb but I can't imagine how you are able to constantly create your deck beam scarf joints - all seamlessly fitted - love the very subtle wood tone variation just enough to show there is a joint yet not enough to draw attention, just one of those things which become visible if you look at the photos time after time as I do.  Could you share with us mere mortals how you construct them - do you have a jig - mill the steps and saw between or ?? Would really appreciate a couple of photos next time you do some.  Cheers Pete

Hi Gregory - which 20W /40W Blue diode laser would you recommend looking at having regard to our modelling needs? Cheers Pete
 

Bare wood, especially softer woods like basswood, should be sealed before applying any other coating and particularly so when using water-based coatings which will raise the grain of the wood. The easiest sealer to use on models is plain old clear (sometimes called "white") shellac thinned to around a "two pound cut," (Which is the consistency of 
Zinsser's "Bullseye" brand canned shellac.) This dries very quickly, won't raise the grain, and sands easily. (It will eliminate the "fuzzies" that occur when trying to sand soft woods.)  
 
If painting, for minor imperfections and filling pores, use any good "sanding primer." As mentioned, there are several major brands. Interlux is a high-quality marine paint line with which I am quite familiar but there are other sanding primers on the market. This sanding primer, "basecoat," or "sealer, depending upon the manufacturer's nomenclature, contains additives which make sanding easy. The additive can be anything from "whiting" (chalk or talcum) to microspheres. ("micro-balloons.") (If you have microballoons on hand for mixing epoxy fairing compound, you might want to experiment with adding them to regular paint or shellac and see if that works for you. Always test any coating system on scrap wood before applying to finished work to make sure it will provide the results sought.) 
 
I have found using water-based acrylics are not as suitable for fine finishes because the water can raise the grain and the softer synthetic coatings are more difficult to sand. If one is seeking a matte clear wood finish, I'd simply use clear shellac which will fill fairly well if applied in multiple coats. A thick shellac coating will end up glossy, but the gloss will easily sand off in the end to as fine a finish as one might require using fine sandpaper (300 grit or finer) and/or hand-rubbing with rottenstone and pumice.

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/interlux-prekote-quart-p-33277.html?campaignid=283850993&adgroupid=1258941293687119&creative=&matchtype=e&network=o&device=c&keyword=&msclkid=ac4ac711ef191c683eefa323e6f0a1be&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google Shopping 2020 January- Bing&utm_term=4582283435435465&utm_content=Shopping-Catch ALL
 
If you have some serious divots, surfacing putty is the necessary coating. It is a paste about the consistency of toothpaste that is thinned with acetone. It can be applied with a putty knife and can be thinned to a desired consistency. (It will harden in the can quickly if the lid is left off the can for appreciable periods. Adding a small amount of acetone to the can after use and storing the well-closed can upside down overnight will reconstitute the paste to a softer consistency without a lot of stirring. This material is sort of like drywall "mud." It hardens very quickly and can be sanded easily in a half hour or so. If a surfacing putty is used, the surfacing putty should be overcoated with the primer after it's been used. It's somewhat porous and if a gloss finish is applied directly over it, there is the tendency to create a 'flat spot" where the gloss topcoat was unevenly absorbed by the surfacing putty. 

 
 
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=interlux+surfacing+putty&adgrpid=1342504259915083&hvadid=83906731284955&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83906856471787%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=4123_13164389&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_6qak90lgdy_e

Which model fiber laser are you using?  I have not seen that configuration at a $500 price point..
 
Your image looks like a typical blue diode laser.
 
This should catch on as more people start using the laser. 
I use maple veneer, and have also explored making treenail marks.
Also good for shaped margin an nibbed/jogged planks.
 

You are right on about it taking care of the caulking simulation.

I bought the NRG thin strip saw jig for cutting planks, but I found that my table saw isn't compatible with it, unfortunately. This is my alternative method to cutting accurate thickness, which is important for deck planking.
 

First, I cut my asian peer woods. Today's weather is clear with a little smog. I'm so scared of my table saw, so I don't measure the thickness accurately now. 
 
The plank size is 600 x 35 mm, or 2 feet x 1 1/3 inch. Thickness is vary.
 

The next is Byrnes thickness sander. It punches material and makes a loud noise, but works pretty well. I made all the sheets 1.00mm thick. 
 

I own a $500 fiber laser cutter. Cheaper laser cutters that use a blu-ray drive diode are much inferior to fiber laser.
 
I designed a very simple g-code that cut 135mm x 4.20mm thick planks.
 
 

Final result. The size is 134.80 mm x 4.02 mm, and the gap between planks is about 0.40mm, which is thinner than half the thickness of a table saw blade. Also, it is much safer. The burning marks at the sides may be a good expression of deck caulking.
 
I put my large Proxxon table saw in a warehouse. 😎

Hi Kim,
thanks for your interest in the Bohuslän Build.
In answer to your questions as follows....
1. The replicate hull rivet plating is done with self adhesive aluminium foil cut in stripes,and plates positioned and brought on to the hull. The rivets are ponced with a roll tool which is a handle with an old mantel clock wheel. The methode is described in my model build logs of the other ships
also with riveted plates, (please ref. to the names in my signiture)
 
2. Some of the brass items  were simply left in brass color in case there would have to be any soldering afterwards, and the painting forgotten later on, but I have no problem with that.
 
Would like to see some pics of your model, did you do a build log ? When I built the Billing Bohuslän so many years ago, I was a young man and could`nt afford the adiitional fittings kit at that time, so all fittings were self made. The model went on a shelf for many years after that, and it was only a few years ago that I decided to plate the old lady as she is seen in the build log today.
 
The "Elbe 1 light ship" is also one of my favorites and I can remember looking desperately for the Billing kit on the web. Meantime I have some very good information and also a build plan, so if its ever built it will be a scratch build on my yard...
 
Best regards,
Nils

Right there Yves,
Thanks for your nice compliment
it is so long ago that the two kits you mentioned were available from Billing Boats. (thear great time) I see offers for these rare old kits now and then on Ebay.
It was also a time where there were no laser-cutten wood parts, and the good old jigsaw was used. I remember that for the Bohuslän I did`nt have the money for the seperate Billings fittings-kit, so all the
appropriate fittings were self made.
 
Nils

Beautiful work as always. Be nice to see a few photos of the lights on inside the finished La Amarante if you have some. Cheers Pete
 

Hello to you all who have expressed concern for my health.
First of all my surgery went well and my hand is back to normal working with the tools I love most the jewelers saw and my Myford lathe, opposite ends of the model-making spectrum. Judy and I have been keeping a low profile during the last couple of years for all the obvious reasons. 
My model boat building has taken a back seat at the moment, even though the cutter is not 3 feet away from my bench and the stern is only 9 inches from the end of the lathe bed.
As many of you know I am also an avid builder of model railway subjects, currently in the front seat. ( I am working on a four wheel coach of the Great Western Railway built in 1876  in 1/32nd scale and it has presented a great deal of challenges. I am not likely to build any more of them. this one with full working clasp brakes, is enough for me.)
Here are a few of pictures of it. the body is .030" styrene sheet with a printable card-stock overlay cemented with MEK to the styrene.

 
The wheels are a composite of steel Castello (16 wedges) and brass all the bolts and pins are turned from brass stock, the axle-boxes and hangers for the springs are currently being redone to better reflect reality, with proper cups and rubber bushings.

 

 
And the adjustable jig for bending the loops on the ends of the top leaf of the springs.
 

 
I think I better not push my luck posting pictures of model railway stuff on this Bristol Cutter build log.
I am sure that my  boat building MOJO will be back sooner rather than later and I will get on with the galley and map chart area. perhaps a sextant lying on the table with some compasses and a parallel rule and pencil.
 
Michael
 

Starting the back of the galley now.
 

 

It is easier to work on it outside of the hull, l am amazed at how nice the maple that I cut from the big log 50 years ago still works and planes up with such a lovely lustre. I’m guessing it is because it has been air dried.
Michael 

Thanks Tom I appreciate that. Thanks to everyone for your kind comments. I did some more work on the galley and have soldered the top to the sink and used the sheet metal drill for the drain pipe.
 

 

 
I have given the wood a good coat of tung oil and will give it another coat later.
 
Michael

Fiddling with the galley cabinets today.


 

 
michael

The lip is now cut and rounded on the edges
 
I will be raising the top when I get it back in the boat.
 
Michael